kamineko
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Posts posted by kamineko
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It probably won\'t hold. Last time I had to fix that I threaded a brass pipe an tapped Into the plastic bov to replace the nipple altogether. Not sure it was worth the effort though
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there should be a large rubber bung or two in the bottom of the boot to help you drain it. no hints for where its leaking though
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what sort of warranty do you have on the car? the dealer would have checked the condition eh? (maybe i\'m naive to think this)
or was it a private import
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like auckland? i dunno it just seemed like an unsubstantiated statement
at 25k the belt should be fine. but since you\'re concerned its easy to remove the plastic cam covers and inspect for tension / oil / degradation and put your mind at ease
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there are a few options depending on the year and model. 260 is too small for \'99 turbo. 277 is a common size but from about \'97 the higher spec legacy\'s came with 297mm, the same rotors used with 4pot impreza fronts.
remove a wheel and measure the total width of your rotor
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Safest to do it mate. In japan cars can spend long times in lines of traffic. Things get quite hot under the bonnet, it\'s the heat that gets to them.
Sitting idling doesn\'t add km\'s so it may have been subject to long engine hours.
At the very least check the condition of it
where? i thought traffic flow was generally pretty good in the main centres and more or less dead out in the country
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fronts for twin turbo B4? probably vented 297mm
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hah yeah it is gt5. i believe its GC8E2DD giving chase online
IRL i normally hit public/private trackdays about as seriously as you would want to in a stripped but road legal impreza on semi slicks.
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VinCode GC8078640
ModelCode G10
BodyModel GC8F2DD
ColorCode 51E
TrimCode 830
BODY 2C
ENGINE EJ207
TRAIN F4WD
MISSION MT
GRADE WRXRASTI
SUS N/S
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in the \'sweet jesus\' thread it looked like they plated or otherwise mirror polished the area around the valves on the combustion side. what is all that about?
also Rosssub, any further details on the V6 and BH5? what years and what model/revision was the legacy? thanks. i\'m making a list of the cam markings.
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It\'s the \'Prescribed amount of Time\' for Memory Drain, that makes me think disconnecting the Battery for half an hour could do it?
Providing the Initial Fault was fixed? :-\
sorry i don\'t follow
the prescribed time is set out in the manufacturer\'s manual. i don\'t want to quote because i don\'t know the suby specified time off the top of my head. we are talking minutes though
i am assuming no actual fault. just that things where swapped over while power was still active which triggers a fault code in the airbag ecu - which can only be reset by scantool. this has happened, the ecu is now happy. horrah!
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went to auto sparky today, easy reset with scantool! must have just been from having clockspring disconnected during swap..
/quote]
Nice. ;D
Was you Battery connected while doing your Steering Column?
that would do it. you should remove the battery power for a prescribed amount of time before working on airbag systems for safety reasons. also if airbag connectors etc are disconnected and reconnected while un-powered, no fault codes will be triggered
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at the risk of sounding retarded, are you sure its straight? i\'ve been through my pictures and it might be bent like that normally
only one plane is visible in that picture. i\'ll google some more
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JoKer']
1st and reverse getting tuff to select are "my" symptoms of worn clutch
only been thru two in the GTB (10+ years owning) so that\'s the limit of my input soz
ended up selecting 2nd then 1st (whilst stationary) made the job easier
unless you\'re having a hard time while selecting 1st while moving? [not recommended, 1st has no syncro\'s]
sorry Jared, irrelevant due to:
My bh5 gtb won\'t select 1st... All other gears are fine but no matter how hard you push in the shifter it won\'t select 1st! Any idea why this is happening?
what about when the engine is off?
..no matter how hard you push..
with gearboxes, no certainly does not mean harder. you can bend selector forks if you\'re too rough
Na, tried with engine off. Doesn\'t want to select it at all.
doubt its the linkage but could be bent selector fork or damaged syncro
also,
[quote name='JoKer said:
not recommended, 1st has no syncro\'s]
but it does?
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i\'ve been told that if an airbag module throws a fault code, it can only be reset by a dealer?
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what about when the engine is off?
[quote name='STiNGR said:
..no matter how hard you push..
with gearboxes, no certainly does not mean harder. you can bend selector forks if you\'re too rough
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i tried lawnmower air filter foam. worked ok for a year or so then started to go a bit soft
couple of trackdays later all good
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is it possible to swap the right and left sensors and test drive to narrow down the possibilities? (i\'m not sure but it seems the first thing i\'d try before looking for another abs control module to try, or having a better look at the wiring)
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Cheapo tires, worth it in the long run?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
thread revive!
so my '96 gtb has some 80% worn no-name tyres and it seems to handle alright with fresh sway bar links and strut braces front/rear. with little tread its a bit slippery in the snow as i found out this weekend haha
anyway, due to a puncture i swapped a pair of 95% new linglong 215/45R17 @35psi onto the rear.
holy ****. it feels like i removed the rear sway bar completely. the sidewall and tread flex is ridiculous. tug the steering at 100kmh and the car delays, then rotates from the central point of the chassis, then wallows back again like i'm on a boat (mother******)
maybe i am missing a sway bar link. i'm going to check when i get home. surely DOT rated tyres are not this dangerous?