dumbskate

Sorry that was my mistake. Pappu sold me a tested second hand sensor. he in no way described it as reconditioned, that was my fault in describing it and I have changed this in the first post now. Boostin Your in the Auckland area, do you work for a mechanic and can I just book in for some diagnostics? We coudl listen to my injectors at the same time ;D

Yeah its a stock TT apart from the rear muffler, Im not big on loud stereo's and I tend to drive around town fairly cruisey with the windows down so I hear the ticking quite distinctly coming out of the front wheel arches. But seriously if you can in anyway add something useful to the basic questions of how long to injectors last? and do they become less effective as they get louder/sloppier I woudl love to hear them.

All good points. I bought the car 9,000km ago as a fresh import and haven't replaced either the plugs (coil on plug type) or the fuel filter. I know the fuel filter will need replacing but the last time I got as far as putting the new one in when I discovered that Repco had given me the wrong part and I just couldn't bring myself to taking it apart again. One year on and I have a garage and more time so I will eliminate that and check the plugs before going any further.

I replaced my O2 sensor with a second hand, tested one thanks to Pappu a while back and all was good for a little while but it seems to be one long hills at about 3,000 rpm the "check engine" light will come on and thsi is always due to a code 32. I have cleared the memory in the correct manner on a test drive but the check engine light starts again with the code 32 so obviously the problem is constant but only throws the error when the ECU is really over it. What can make it always be receiving an error from the sensor but only throw the code on the odd occasion? Also and this may be part of the issue, Pappu sold me a 4 wire to replace my three wire and I simply soldered the two earth wires together as he said it woudl be fine. Any thoughts?

Yeah that is what I am thinking also. I mean Subaru must put a life time on this guys and the internal tolerance gets worse over time and the noise increases then I may have a set that need replacing if I want a non ticking Subaru. Plus if the ticking is only an annoyance to me and does not reflect the performance of accuracy of the injector then they may still be good for someone else. I woudl still love to know how they degrade over time and what there life-span is though.

So the ticking is from a moving part in the injector like an actuator opening to release the fuel during its duty cycle. With that logic wouldn't an injector with more movement than specified at the factory mean that it could now be allowing more or less fuel to be released during a cycle then Subaru designed it to? I am wondering because the engine has a little "splutter" in the power and a feeling of imbalance just when you touch the gas. Possible the passenger side injectors are now releasing an inaccurate amount of fuel and the combustion is on remain uniform across all cylinders when you touch the gas. Thsi can feel a bit odd in a manual with a worn factory clutch when you take off slowly on the flat.

what does my head-in is if they were able to come from the factory quiet and many cars with 100K on the clock like mine can still be quiet then why isn't mine. More than anything I still need someone to come on here and explain to me in brief why the injectors get louder over time.

I think that would be more work than just replacing. I think will leave this open to the rest of you for the night and see if anyone can shed a little more light than boostin's one liners. No offense boostin.

Then I imagine I wont bother. So what makes them start off quieter from new and get to this stage? What is changing over time that I need to snatch back? Not to sound like a broken record but to actually stop the audible ticking my options seem to be get another set of injectors that don't sound as loud. Is that about the gist of it in your opinion?

So if I want a happy quiet injector? I mean they came from the factory quieter than this and they must have been pretty happy to begin with right? Sorry I dont know much more than the basics about injectors so I can only make basic assumptions without some more detail from people in the know.

Every since I bought by car (see sig below) at 105,000k there has been a decent ticking noise coming from the engine bay. It has never been an issue beyond the noise when you pass parked cars with the windows down but with summer coming on and those windows down more often I would like it gone sorted. I gave the car an oil change today and had another more precise (screwdriver up to my ear) listen to a whole bunch of points around the engine and my "ticking" is definitely coming from the injectors. The passenger side seems louder but then again the rear drivers side one if tucked up under the header tank so that would block some noise on that side too. With a bit of a rev the pattern goes: Ticking injector at idle, give it a little gas and ticking increases tempo until about 2,300 rpm when the ticking goes quiet and I assume this is when the injector is working at full open or something like that. let of the gas and the ticking comes back in as the revs drop and goes back to its happy little tune at idle. So I would like to know what makes injectors tick loudly and what is the usual way functions with reference to my story above?

This guy must be up for a ban

I would think that rules out piston slap as that would present itself at start up and then get quieter as the engine warms up and the metal expands. Just in case we can both get a hint of what our engines are doing my engine has a ticking noise that is always there no matter what temp and seems to come from a very central part of the block as it can be heard at equal volume from both wheel arches. Also I didn't know that solid shims needed adjusting as that is the point of a solid shim. Mine are solid ( I have been told) so I was under the impression that this ruled them out.

with 165k on the clock the idle control valve (ICV) could do with a good clean. Its worth doing for the five minutes it takes and all you need it a good screw driver and some cleaner of choice (CRC, WD40, Upper engine cleaner). Back to the tapping (of whcih I also have) what is the usual daily pattern of the ticking? Does it come on a start up and remain constant or does it get quieter with the warm up? Also is it through the rev range? My "tocking" is not too loud (compared to old 1st gen legacy I have owned) but is a very odd one that seems to come from deep in the engine. I have a BH Legacy so my lifters are solid so it rules them out. I had the Suby mechanic have a good listen and he thought is was something deep down that wouldn't be found without rebuild. The perfectionist in me woudl love to get rid of it but the motor goes fine so I am happy.

is the thread in the rocker cover or deeper in the block i wonder? If it is in the rocker then it can removed and taken to a engineer for re-tapping. If its in the block it could be a bigger headache.

I would get/borrow a boost gauge so you can see what is really going on through the gears. Also have you tried running it through the gears from 1-2-3 to see how it boost then?

That should narrow down the search. It may just be for the stereo. So in that case I woudl be checking all wiring at the rear of the stereo for a possible loose wise. I had this problem with a old stereo that was a real hassle to remove so I just increased the fuse by 5 watts (or is it amps?) and never had an issue again.

Hey savanna12a, it sounds like you have a short somewhere on that circuit. Usually this is either a loose wire or a bare piece of wire that is making contact with the chassis and thus earth whcih will short the circuit and blow the fuse. You probably caused this during the engine work. The window/lock circuit must has settled back into a space where it makes no contact with anything. the Stereo circuit however is still loose or exposed somewhere and this is most probably your problem. I woudl be checking any wiring you may have disturbed/worked on and as boostin mentioned anything else on the same circuit which may have been disturbed. As a last resort and at your own risk you can always try increasing the fuse by 5 watts will still blow in a serous short and the fuse in the back of most stereos will take care of any other medium shorts.

I noticed this started happening in mine but only after installing a band expander. I have a kill switch for the expander as it hates my I-trip so I have tested it thoroughly and the static only happens when the expander has power. Is this the same for others. Also Subieboy I think it may have been covered in the old forum but I couldn't find any post on this here.

That means exactly what your suspected...nothing is wrong with your car.

So whats the standard boost for the primary and secondary on the BH model? I have been doing some testing of mine and it seems to usually be about 6psi for the primary and then 10-11psi when you give it the boot.

Can I chime in and say that this sort of thing has happened to me a few times and it has always been the alarm. Usually it is because the unit is armed and is either reading a current draw from somewhere and thinks its a door being opened or the earth to the alarm or battery is poor and the unit is getting a funky signal. With my AVS if I put the hazards on and then arm the car it will allow this for about 20 seconds before the alarm becomes fully armed and the current drop is registered and the alarm goes off/car is immobilized. I would say make sure that nothing is drawing current, switch the alarm back on under the hood, then reconnect the battery and try to disarm as usual. The only parts that makes we wonder how well your alarm is installed would be the interior lights all flashing unless that is part of your alarm models function, as its not part of mine. Have you called AVS and described this all to them.

Wise words BigWillie, but no one said they were.

yeah I usually just take off one of the row in front of the inlet manifold and spray into there. I woudl also like to get some into the top of the manifold but that means taking off the intercooler and a bit more time. The instructions on the can are pretty good.