gazzy2000

heres the knock wav file http://www.yousendit.com/transfer.php?action=batch_download&send_id=789223472&email=66dbd371e6145f1e10b3168c622eb306

yea thats the thing, i was told teh heads are pretty much the same, so where is the change in compression done?? Heads or pistons??? phuck that chit, i say just get a a/m ECU and tune it to suit. Man, the amount of aggro and time i cud have saved myself if knew that in the begining!! Plus the money spent diagnoseing and testing would easily amount to $500

Mind you, i havnt had this compression discrepancy 100% confirmed by a rocket scientist, but the evidence has stacked up with all the testing. I have spoken to alot of ppl bout this incl lots of conversations with Kevin at PBMS. One subaru mechanic that i asked about the compression ratio difference (who is a smaller subaru workshop specialist) said straight away "dude, you got to pull the timimg" and the only way to do that is with an after market ECU. So really, if the compression ratio is not the issue (of which i really believe it IS the issue), at least what ever it is you can tune it out with an after market ECU. I wud have been finished weeks ago!!!!

Sorry i cant answer those questions but i will say, DO NOT take anyones advice as gospel! there really are some dick cheeses out there and they just dribble chit out their gobs for the sake of talking and robing you blind!

always

Seems high but did it drop back when loading it up? Tried another ecu? Didnt drop back as much as i thought it wud i remember thinking, and there was constant knock voltage. Yea man, caspros kindly lent me his 00 STI RA ECU, no difference. I have done the works, new AFM, Fuel PUMP, new o2, x2 cans upper engine cleaner, crank and cam sensor, another ECU, two knock sensors, 4 Boost noids 2 & 3 port, new vac hoses, etc etc etc god help me!!

i saw 40 at cruise

Not running coil over plugs any more, running single 4 point coil pack, prob still there with both setups. Running heat range 6 tried 7 gap .712 Anything over 9 PSI and DET was happening When i had that snapon engine analyser on, it was even detecting knock in safe mode!! and the ignition always looked far too advanced

Yea, rich all round, reset or no reset. The chap i got the STI ECU off said it was rich ass for him too, suspect he wud had had similar issues or not even known he was in safe mode coz he had a MBC. ECU is the best thing for me, i may end up being single after this LOL, and she might end up getting the car LOL (i bet she'd burn it)

Motor never been apart, its all factory

PM'd / emailed Yip, i wud prolly have not done it had i known i needed an after market computer

Hey, Right, after putting the knock sensor up on the Intercooler mount and torqueing it correctly etc i reset ECu went for a drive and its no different, it still detects knock and puts the car into safe mode. So, i took the knock sensor off completely and cable tied it to a hose, reset ECu and went for a drive. Well it Deted its ass off, i recorded the whole thing on with my DIY knock sensor listener and laptop. This was a one off test and i wud not do it again after hearing all teh det. So this tells me: (1) with the knock sensor on it is doing a great job at protecting my engine from the det (1.5) relocating knock sensors still work very well (2) i have real det issues and now know/suspect the compression ratio on my EJ208 is well wrong for the V5/6 STI ECU and the timing is too advanced casusing the det. Mine is 9:1 and a v5/6 STi is 8.5:1 (3) i didnt thrash my engine so saved myself thousands from taking it easy right from the start (4) my DIY knock sensor listener is worth its weight in gold (5) my wife hates me (6) i need to get an after market ECU (7) the whole TT to single T conversion is a right prick and rather costly If you want to hear what det sounds like i can send you teh wav file, it plays in windows media player, but its 12mb This is what the det looks like in the spectrogram software

Hey, Three techs have said frm the WAV file that its more than likely not det. EDIT: i now know why you cudnt hear it that well, the in-put volume was too loud and recording to much other noise, once i turned it down and recorded again the det was very clear, as per later on in this thread I have Got a torque wrench to torque the knock sensor to 24nm, this apparently is critical as is the 60 degree angle from the back of the engine. Relocated knock sensor to up on the manifold on the IC bracket Will reset ECU and test drive, if that doesent work, i will wire the following urber shielded wire straight to the ECU using the twin inner cores as one.

cool, got any pics or wiring diagrams?

unless its well worn out already, do some tight turning circles lock to lock see what it does, put yr foot up it a wee bit to put pressure on the drive line components.

if its teh center diff they only do it after they are well warmed up. If it is the center diff fault you will hear/feel clicking and binding in all four wheels, but not when its cold

check that the series of the tyres are all the same i.e. 50, 45 etc they must all match Plus i think 99-2001 GTBs are renound for the center diff packing up, my 2001 did. slow tight circles from lock to lock after a long run when its hot will show any probs with center diff

evoscan, use old lap top under seat running evoscan software, connect evoscan to your ECU then out put the video from lappy to a 7" TV monitor ($239.00 from jaycar - plus its a TV - the fold away type) 7" screen has inputs for DVD or gaming etc as well http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=QM3782&keywords=lcd+tv&form=KEYWORD Make you own dash layout with evoscan or watch shortland street whilst boostin!

just havin a laugh wif ya frumpytown, its me your old mate gazza! ;D

actually, if you get a 4x1 wooden plank and get it chromed then mount all the gauges in it and your car stereo, you cud run it from one side of the car to the other and just nail it to the guards.

What about on the outside of the car in front of the drivers view, that looks wicked, you cud put yr monsta tacho there too! Just use clear silicone RTV to seal them up from the elements. friggin cough * sarcasim

Well i went for a boosted drive with the my DIY system and spectrogram software. Koom, you are right, the 9v batt is heaps better, no where near as much noise! Managed to record the exact 30-40 seconds of driving where the boost kicked back to 10 PSI. Certainly sounds like det at about 26 secs, then you can hear i simply slowed down cause my handy LED thats hooked up to my Boost solenoid stopped flashing and my boost gauge went to 10 PSI so i knew i was in safe mode. So i pulled over and stopped the recording. Its the same thing thats been happening all along, at least i can replicate it at will i spose. Any experts out there i can email the wav file to have a listen?

oh yip, well i cudnt tell you if it has a safe mode or whatever, my experiances are referring to stock ECUs You cud still stick a LED across the BS, wudnt hurt, they are only $4.50

Dunno, i shud point out my experiments/experiance with this has been on v3/4 v5/6 WRX STI But it sure wudnt hurt to chuck a LED on the BS, least then you know your ECU is doing its thing and take it from there.

Pic of boost solenoid LED wiring (1) boost solenoid (2) twin core cable going to LED on dash (3) scotch lock joiners (4) actual boost solenoid factory plug Unplug the factory plug, turn key on and find which one is 12v, the other one will be the ECU switching wiring which turns the earth on and off to the noid thus controlling boost. Positive of the LED (red) goes to 12v and black to the other wire (ECU switching wire). I have to caution its not recommended to use a normal test light to probe the plug wires as damage can occur to the ECU. its just a caution so you cant pin anything on me.