gazzy2000
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Posts posted by gazzy2000
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Hey, have a look at my listing for turbos for sale.
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That's very interesting, and you say you've had the car running on it after converting to single turbo? i'm just wondering how the fuel pump relay would work if that's the case...
If it is indeed a TT ecu, then that would explain the 10-12 psi... I should imagine it'd be throwing code 66 or whatever it is on OBD-II
Hmm, me too! maybe its a STI board inserted into an old ECU box?
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what you have there is a 1998-2000 legacy EJ208 twin turbo ECU
NOT WRX OR STI
you can find this by searching the part number "22611ad983"
and i confirmed this by a parts catalogue search
Thankyou very much for confirming that, i brought it through a guy on CS so i will be chatting to him.
If i find another one can i rely on you to check the numbers against your catalogue?
Cheers
Gary
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Ok so now doing the fronts and despite the fact everything lines up perfectly, I cannot get the strut all the way into the knuckle at the bottom. Goes about 60% of the way in then no matter how much force I use it won't budge further
What stupid mistake have I made this time?
CRC and wiggling!
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nice one, easy when you knwo how aye!
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just get another jack and jack the bottom wheel/hub assembly by hand until it moves into place, bit of CRC or lube on the bolts helps too
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As per disscusions with Reuben:
Got to ditch the fuel control module because the original legacy ECU feeds it 1.7Volts to operate, the STI ECU switches earth for fuel pump control.
This method replaces the factory controller located in the rear with an after market relay and uses the existing cabling from the fuel module to the fule pump eleimating running new wires from the dash to the fuel pump.
Esentially the factory relay is triggering the new relay in the rear, not the fuel control module and the STI ECU is supplying/switching the earth for the new relay.
Connect the controller wire in question to the STI earth switched pin on the ECU, (this is the wire that would normally feed 1.7v to the module) this wire is now going to be the earth for the new relay, as per PIC
fit an aftermarket relay by old fuel pump module (ditch the module)
Change pin 1 to an ignition feed on the factory relay as per pic
Factory relay is still needed to feed ignition switched power to the after market relay (other wise u hv to run a ign switched cable from dash to new relay)
STI ECU shudnt throw a CEL as it knows nothing bout the Fuel module
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Hey,
Just wanted to plug the wrecking yard called "Bits for Isuzu & Subaru" in Auckland
I have been quering them on and off for parts for my TT to T conversion, i finally settled on what i need after many a discussuion with them and they were really helpful.
I delt with a chap call Gerard. They even followed up with a phone call to let me know when to expect the parts (i am in Timaru) and asked if there was any other bits i thought i needed.
Bloody good compared to some of the redneck wreckers i have delt with and their prices were very good too!
nice one Bits for subaru! good attitudes, nice prices, great service!! A++
I recommend to all.
Cheers
Gary
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sounds like a bad earth some where, start by cleaning your battery terminals with a file and your battery lugs with a round file or replace the lugs if they are crap. Plus clean up what ever body earths you can see.
ALso if you have been in under the dash or some wiring has been modified (anyhwere on the car i.e trailer plug) just make sure all plugs are properly pluged in etc
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Hey,
You cud try simply resetting the ECU so it re-learns all the fuel mappings etc, that wont cost you a thing!
I found i had to do this when changing any electrical component and/or fitting a new engine.
Search forums for how to do it on your vehicle.
See how ya go
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Check Power Steer pump fluid level, suby p/s pumps hate not being full and make crazy noises that transfer through the engine and drive train making you think its something its not, take the wee filter out to view the level properly.
Worth a look to eliminate that at least. Let us know what you find
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Thanks guys I will check this all out.
As far as tyres are concerned, they are all same dimensions and PSI, but different brands. The P.O replaced them with secondhand tyres so I have no clue if the wear is un-even because they were more worn to begin with, or whether its got something to do with different brands.
Oh and I also got a brake shudder to sort out . Think I might have to get a mechanic to sort that one out :-\
i would get the circumfrences checked, there really isnt room for error, i had this issue on my 97 STI
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check the Power steer pump fluid, they can make real weird noises when low on fluid that transfer through the motor and drive train. Remove the wee filter inside to view the level properly.
Also check the circumference of the tyres, ie, same tyre series/sizes, same PSI and even wear. The AWD subys have to be dam near spot on or the center diff will be under strain and cause vibrations and noises etc
Just a couple of things to rule out.
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heres a vid on changing a V6 STi clutch
similar for TTs, engine or gearbox dosent come out until the big pin on the side of the gear box is pulled out, this is the pin that the fork pivots on.
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*Urgent* STI ECU numbers - how to tell its an STi V5/6 ECU??
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
hey, thanks for clearing that up, yea i think i now recall you saying that you were going to do that, sorry to start throwing accusations around like that, but at least that is one thing to write off the list in the process of elimination.
Have you still go the factory boost solenoid? if so, is it a two or three port?
Cheers
Gary