jmz

Yeah, 5-6k is about right. It's too bad you can't get a 5MT 3.0L Outback. I have a friend in Wellington who I trust to check out cars. I will ask him to check out that Outback for any signs of early HG leakage. What price would I be looking at, incl parts, for a HG/cambelt/water pump/misc gasket job on a 2004 2.5 Outback (in Christchurch)? Does it depend much on the condition of the block surfaces? I can factor it in to any offer I might make.

Hi, hoping to get some advice. I've been looking for a manual Subaru wagon for a while now, mainly for road trips, no commuting. Former Gen II GTB owner, ended painfully in an engine replacement immediately followed by it being stolen. I've been mainly looking for 4cyl manual 4th gen outbacks, which are fairly rare. Am I right in thinking that they should really be looking for replacement head gaskets by the time you get onto a third cam belt somewhere north of 200k? Do they have any prospect of making it past 300k serviceable kms with just new HGs? Would I in fact be better served with a Gen III turbo Legacy, trade some HG issues for turbo woes, and more tidy examples around? Would I miss the ground clearance? Any comments on these listings? Outback: https://trademe.co.nz/1256465932 Legacy 1: https://trademe.co.nz/1253299264 Legacy 2: https://trademe.co.nz/1255792820 Legacy 3: https://trademe.co.nz/1260250092

Update, now on trademe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=921682075

Would anyone like to do better than $250 from a wrecker? Still got some lovely VF18/19 turbos, brand new radiator, new (thrashed) engine etc... Alternately, does anybody think that the front wheel assembly damage is repairable?

As per this thread, http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?46773-Stolen-Silver-96-BG5-Legacy-GT-Rego-BRG199-CHCH Found it today dumped a few blocks away. Someone has taken it for a joy ride, gone through the glove box, nothing of value to take, stereo is still in there. Was not insured. Pics here: https://imgur.com/a/kw7A2 The front RH wheel is completely mangled, I think the strut is bent and the front drive shaft at the very minimum is totaled. I started the engine and it did not sound too happy, was burbling as it revved. I am aghast to think what they did to it after putting thousands of dollars into that engine. Contacted police, not interested in forensics, just in closing the outstanding report. Unsure what to do with it, I have no idea how to evaluate if it's worth anything. The engine was a replacement from a 100K vehicle, with a brand new radiator, but might be completely fubar for all I can tell. Turbos should still be good. Any advice would be deeply appreciated.

Silver 96 BG5 wagon, taken from outside my house in Fendalton some time in the past few days. Silver with black mags, roof rack, registration BRG199. Thanks!

I am also looking to replace my oxygen sensor. It seems I have the option of trying to get a direct-fit one already made such as this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-1-8-i-3-WIRE-LAMBDA-O2-OXYGEN-SENSOR-22690AA190-ADS77010-LS03-/290685370745?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43ae32c179 or getting a universal type and wiring it to my existing plug. Any pointers if the above would be suitable for my 96 GT BG5, or where to source a suitable generic type in NZ?

Thanks, the chassis code is BG5A, but I think the purple-label sensors are usually found on GT-Bs, which this has most of the guts of stuffed in somehow. The local pick-a-part stock doesn't seem likely at the moment.

Currently broken down off Bealey Ave. I think it's the MAF gone funny again, after cleaning. p/n 22680AA280

Also, died on the motorway at ~5K rpm but still with no boost. Restarted fine with no CEL, but won't idle, otherwise behaves the same. Hrm. (May have to reset ECU for idle control? check IACV?)

I don't have a gauge, it just felt dead flat. Pretty sure everything made it back on there, was only doing one hose at a time.

BG5 Legacy here: I cleaned out my BBOD solenoids/lines with carb cleaner, after doing the wheel-well boost control solenoid earlier (all while cycling solenoids in test mode, also gave the actuators some WD-40). I think the ECV duty solenoid freed up, because I didn't notice it clicking before I cleaned it, but now I get no primary boost at all. This is after driving while having the diagnostic connectors connected. Does the ECU have to re-learn safe boost from nothing? Does it need another reset? Could I have some carb cleaner trapped in the system somewhere (pesky differential pressure sensor?) stopping it from working?

Would anyone in Christchurch be able to help me out with cleaning out my vac lines and solenoids? (BG5 Legacy) I have a nice big can of carb cleaner and zero knowledge.

aaaaaaand after: https://imgur.com/36Jfn55 Tightened with just a screwdriver, to the best of my strength. No hairspray available. Seems a little bit slanted. Stood up to some driveway boosting though.

The second dumb question is: if so, should I refit that clamp over the compressed area, and how tight?

Here's a dumb question: https://imgur.com/9ZNYEdX Is this clamped remotely properly? I was thinking I had a boost leak, and went hunting. Smoking gun?

Replaced fuel pump. The dead one was a large-sized one from a WRX GC8. Started, but pissing water out the exhaust. Must be the heads Got it home, the CEL started flashing near the end, for 'oxygen sensor inoperable'. The radiator was also very hot on the inlet side and very cold on the outlet. I'm not sure whether I should look at it before getting someone to look at the heads. I will be contacting Cliff Bond.

Just sourced a replacement pump (V7 STI). After I install it (and if it's still running), my plan is to empty the cooling system, test flow through the heater core and radiator, backflush with vinegar, and possibly install a heater core semi-bypass to forestall any future problems. Fingers crossed.

Reason why it wasn't starting was a broken fuel pump. Getting volts at the connector. Still looking at a radiator/heater core at a minimum though after that!

Thanks for the recommendation. It does seem likely that the original problem was a blocked heater core or radiator. I'm leaning towards radiator as that aligns with high water pump RPM simultaneously allowing flow and pushing coolant out the overflow (don't see how the heater core would cause that, except secondarily through coolant boiling/expansion?). Whatever it is, it was there right from the start, but I don't think Keith is particularly interested (could be wrong). Even with a secondary failure like a cracked head or HG, is that enough to not make it fire or start at all? Would you expect that to still be (badly) drivable?

Still sitting at work, turns over fine but not a hint of starting/firing. Does anyone have recommendations in Christchurch for potentially some serious $$$ work? I should be able to get a tow from roadside assistance.

That would be a big call, the previous owner was Keith Warwood of Otago Wreckers.

Hey guys. Posting here because I'm at a bit of a loose end. I've got a 1996 Legacy GT BG5, repowered with an EJ20R. When it got it in February, it had just been rebuilt (bearings, rings, head gasket, planed blocks/heads, seals, cam belt, idlers, water pump) with 250K on the chassis. Shortly after getting it, started to encounter overheating problems. Pushing coolant out the overflow, boiling coolant, occasionally drops of coolant around the LH head. Gone through a rigmarole with fans, temperature sensor, thermostat (replaced), without solving the problem. Cooked a VF18 primary in the meantime, which has since been replaced. Passed a TK check and a cooling system pressurisation test. Recent symptoms: -smokes on secondary boost -voids, gurgles, haven't been able to purge, sometimes boiling coolant -weird gases in the overflow tank, but I'm not expert enough to tell what they are -oil seems normal, no residue Took a road trip in the weekend. Was overheating up hills, until I discovered that keeping the revs over 3500 stopped this from happening. Possible flow issue, or extra pump speed helping to overcome voids? Unfortunately didn't stop the loss of coolant, and had lost a good litre on the way back. To top that all off, I was showing these problems to a workmate today, when after giving it a squirt to 6K RPM, started dripping water from the exhaust and idling roughly, choking when blipping the accelerator. After that, it will not start at all. How fornicated am I?