Nith
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Posts posted by Nith
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I got myself a second X-Force Cat Back exhaust from a wreckers a while back. Made a comparison video of the stock system to the X-force. Love the sound. No where near as raspy as the genome exhausts
Sorry can't figure how to embed the video
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Sorry if this is a re post but had a quick search and couldn't find anything.
Was changing the oil this weekend and I have had oil dripping from both bottom cam sensor's, took both out and found the O rings are both destroyed, and so was one of the sensors....
Sensor 'D' (bottom drivers side) ? plastic was brittle, literally broke apart resulting in extracting the metal end with long nose pliers.
I can read DE 3728 on the remains. Hoping Strong for Subaru have some decent second hand parts.
Anyone else had similar issues?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzXERRggRm84TC1nZnc2SDN6dVE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzXERRggRm84WG00MjczeF9vU0U
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I had a very similar issue with my Legacy when I decided to change my Blow off / divert setup to vent to atmosphere. Car would idle badly and almost stall the engine (being an automatic, not ideal) Changed back to recirculate and it went straight back to normal. It could be a leak or your recirculate pipe could be something to look at.
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Anyone know of someone who won't charge a fortune for a small job? Need a tab replaced on my front bumper. Cheers
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Where abouts are you Andy?
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Just want to know the best place to get the A/C re gassed without been charged ridiculous prices here in Auckland. Or..... If anyone does it for a box of beer
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UPDATE: Taken the Zexel unit apart, i think its the variable temperature control piece thats causing the issue. Noticed that with changing the selection notch by notch the air temperature does change but instantly reverts back to hot. Going to attack it with some contact cleaner and see if that makes a difference
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Long story short, my partners GF1 EJ15 constantly blows out hot air, even if the unit is turned off. I know it could be a number of things, like radiator etc, no issues with the engine temperature, fluid has been replaced recently. Could it be the Zexel control unit itself? I have the dash apart at the moment and was looking for the air box, blender etc but I am abit lost. Doesn't seem to have a cabin filter either.
I guess one direction to go would be to see if it runs the same with the unit unplugged, or replace the unit itself.
Any ideas or if anyone has had the same issue that could help would be very much appreciated.
Had a search and couldn't find any similar issues on this forum.
Just a pain in the arse when the misses wants to drive and take her car, then got to put up with the hot air, in the middle of summer...
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Damn thats a fair bit. My original one looks like its in fairly good knick. Does yours have a set of numbers painted/printed on it that look like dates near the 90 degree bend?
I will have to have a look but I dont remember seeing numbers.
It is a bit of a mission to replace to be honest... The easiest thing way to do it is to remove the intake manifold, other wise you will be struggling for a very long time.
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I just recently replaced the pipe for my BP5 with a stock replacement from Strong, cost $200 + :-(
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Update: So adjusted the throttle plate to near where it was originally (Cruise light flashes with no CEL untill back in the "Home" position) car took a few attempts to start but once it fired over it ran fine. Now I have no more idle issues, ECU or what ever "catches" as RPM fall below 1000 which it wasn't before causing the engine to stall. Happy :-)
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Will adjust it back when I get home, I don't know much about fly by wire throttle hence asking around, not much info on the net
how is the engine going to get any air to start if the throttle is fully closed ?they dont have a separate idle controller .
u took something away from the ecu . moved it . put it back and expect the ecu to overcome what you did . now it doesnt know where the throttle plate it . the ecu only knows where it used to be and still thinks it is there
so you fiddled with the throttle but then you asked this "With disconnecting the battery, do I simply disconnect positive and negative or just positive... "what ever you do dont play with a solar panel . those things are a bomb waiting to go off unless u get the right diode to go with them
let this be a lesson in " if it aint broke , dont fix it"there was nothing wrong with the idle before so why did you decide the throttle should be shut
Why the anger? I'm simply asking for advice on a matter, don't need a lecture from you. To answer your statements, my idle has been rooted for some time and being a tradesman I like to do things myself and learn from it. I asked about the battery disconnect because I don't know if there is some stupid procedure you have to do to complete it properly.
Why would I play with solar power... I'm more into my 3phase 400V electrical circuits thanks
[quote name='Andy_Mac said:
And to answer the battery question, just removing the negative terminal is normally enough, but considering you have an electronic throttle then just disconnecting the battery isn't enough to completely reset the ecu like it is in the older carsOk thanks for the tip
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Adjusting shouldn't of caused such a big issue though. It looked like it had been tampeted with previously, throttle plate should be in a fully closed position though right?
With disconnecting the battery, do I simply disconnect positive and negative or just positive...
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Here is what the position looked like before I adjusted it
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzXERRggRm84TFctUHF5XzZ1MU0/view?usp=docslist_api
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So I have had some idle issue just recently, today I took off the throttle body to clean it out and noticed the butterfly plate/valve wasn't in a fully closed position (don't know if it's meant to be slightly open or not on these fly by wire things) so I adjusted it to be fully closed with out it resting on the inside of the body. After putting it all back together and cleaning out the MAF with electrical contact cleaner, it won't start... Cruise control light flashes before starting, and when the car turns over it instantly dies... Could it be a case of the ECU having to be fully reset again to re correct to new butterfly valve position or maybe the MAF is playing up? Any help would be much appreciated...
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Ok so its basically a 50/50 but I want to make sure I get it right, which port goes where for a 2 port solenoid. They are numbered 1 and 2. From what I have found online, but not to do with the stock Denso solenoid is that port 1 connects to the hose from the turbo and port 2 goes to the intake. Correct me if I am wrong. Cheers
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzXERRggRm84bi1wVVAwMXRXaTg/view?usp=sharing
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I have a 2003 GTB BP5 wagon, as of today the "Sports" light started blinking. No noticeable differences in driving though. I have just recently replaced the cold air intake pipe to the turbo after finding the original one split. No solid answers on Google searching, though it could be a vacuum leak,a AVCS error, or a speed sensor from reading other forums / posts. Nothing odd with the idle at the moment either but this seems to be a connected issue with other people as well.
Has anyone else had this issue and managed to solve the issue?
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Maybe this could be an issue to... Hmmm
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BP5 facelift front lip options
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Just hit up ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-08-10-Subaru-Legacy-GT-PU-Front-Bumper-Lip-Spoiler-JDM-Bumper-Only/282413811184?hash=item41c12cc5f0:g:AIsAAOSwNmVaZ~CD&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/05-07-Subaru-Legacy-4-Door-STI-Style-Add-On-Front-Bumper-Lip-Urethane/282308755090?hash=item41bae9be92:g:XAIAAOSwImRYZsby&vxp=mtr