Try hard

How about just buying a v7 STi engine, and ECU/loom out of a GDB Impreza straight out of japan? I did contemplate a whole vehicle but damaged as they are obtainable under the $1000NZ mark, but shipping and GST hurts. Were just looking at a 1999 V6 STi through a broker for $741.00NZ. Vehicle is damaged. As in it looks as if it's hit a high gutter/Curb and scraped the front right of the bumper, roughly 1m of blue paint below the head light is now just plain plastic. (just as n example)

I'm in Dunedin. Parts are definitely harder to source, but I'm willing to fright a crate engine down, or try my luck in Christchurch. I'll look into that Evowrx thanks.

I expected to spend around the $3,000 mark on everything to get an engine back in there, also a bit more on an ECU tune (if applicable) also. (rough estimate depending on the condition on my engine pistons, rods, bores, heads, valves, etc, whats reusable and whats buggered and needs replaced, not a limit) Not really planning to go much past stock, 300hp would be nice, just a little more than the stock TT setup. Maybe the option to raise the boost up to 20psi without risking any damage. Thanks for the advise. It's a time no one is operating so I cant buy parts right now, which gives me more time to think it through and share my thoughts/ideas with all you helpful people.

Alright based upon the response to the idea an engine change to a RB or JZ isn't feasible when it comes to expense. Part of my criteria when choosing the Legacy was it being a wagon, having roof racks, being 4wd, and the option for a tow bar. So my options are: -Fix the bloody thing and sell it, but then be left really with the only option of a Toyota Caldina GT, maybe Nissan Stagea. -Rebuild the current ej208 engine and do a single turbo conversion. -Engine, ECU, & loom swap with EJ255 or ej257. Not looking for ridiculous power or anything, just comfortable driving in town (torque), doing a bit of travel around the country so enough open road power. Responsive throttle, torque (which the twin turbo system just doesn't have any of). Maybe I'll stick to the rebuild, it's a hard decision because either way it's going to cost plenty. If I find a good deal on a ej25 I'd prob go that rout since it's pretty simple also. It's a bonus to have mates who are mechanics, engineers, metal workers/fabricators. But still it's a ***** what ever rout I go.

it's not about $. It's about who you know. Also remember this is my crossroad, where to from here I'm not sure. the options are endless.

lol yes serious, I'm driving a 330kw ATW Ford Falcon turbo while the Subaru is off the road atm, going back to the baby 2.0l AWD, laggy, torque-less, gutless legacy is going to be painful. Yes I've though about the ej257 or ej255, still an option, but I'm a bit of a torque whore and 6 cylinders generally provides enough. The 3.6l EZ36 is prob more of an option.

I'm thinking if I'm dropping a decent amount of $$$ into this car, why rebuild a piddely 2.0L ej20. Maybe I should just do a silly conversion, such as an RB25/30DET or 1JZ-GTE, although prob RB > 1JZ. I need to get dimensions for the engines and then measuring up dimensions of the engine bay, look at mount positioning, gearbox/drive-train matching. Currently just investigating and researching the workload required.

yes had new oil and blew out the banjo bolt with the compressor. I'd turned it over before actually firing it up to ensure there was oil pressure.

Second hand replacement turbo went just under 50km of being in the car. unfortunately was brought in as condition. On the plus side it's taken out the cats. on the hunt for another vf26.

Wee update, OBD2 reader couldn't talk with ECU so it was useless. Also the car is fixed after replacing the primary, wastegate & boost controller. I've picked up another bare engine from a 1999 B4 legacy that I'll start rebuilding after the new year for the conversion. All in all, replaced O2 sensor, new primary & secondary turbos, cleaned all vac lines & solenoids, cleaned MAF, adjusted secondary actuator arm, and done a service. But gosh twin turbos just feel so flat through the power delivery.

So I should not be going the Version 5/6 STi ECU. What ECU should I be looking to pick up. Just a non STI v5/6?

Although the vf26 is pulling, well O.K sort of, I'm losing a lot of oil. I were at the turbo shop today and they tell me they cannot rebuild that particular turbo. So even if I were to put my other vf27 core into the vf26, I'm still going to be leaking oil through its' seals? I thought about the vf32, but that doesn't sound very fun, or much of an upgrade at all, but would be the easiest option. Have noted; v5/6, and Frostplug, I will fix list. What frost plugs are we talking about exactly, I see it must be 15.5mm. As Marky said, the car must have had an abused life. Contemplating if a rebuild would be worth it. Lets be honest its not that involved or does it require many parts. What are we looking at, probably $400-500 in parts for a complete rebuild, excluding a timing belt kit(would inspect my current before replacing as it was recently been done before purchasing the vehicle apparently). I would be the best thing to open her up and put new internals in there. I've probably been playing ignorant to that fact. Now I think about it I really should pull the engine and box, go ahead with a rebuild. Well at least I'm getting a game plan together. It was something I would have rather avoided, but I cant play ignorant forever about it's true condition as much as I want to. Thanks for the confirmations, and I can begin sourcing parts. So I'm most likely looking at a rebuld and conversion. Damn and right before xmas . I'm the Grinch this year boys.

Because sourcing a second hand vf26 has become impossable and mine being unable to be rebuild (vf26 0002). I’m left with the option to shell out $1,500 for a new one, of bite the bullet and just go single turbo conversion. If I can convert to a single turbo for around the $2,000 price point with some wiggle room, I’d surely be silly not to go ahead with it. I’ve got the tools, a pretty good know how of Subaru engines, and plenty of experience rebuilding other engines (4s, 6s & rotarys, turbo & Supercharge) To begin the planning I’m putting togeather a shopping list. Please tell me if I’ve missed anything or have got something wrong. Car in question is my 1998 Subaru Legacy BH5 Rev-A. (Although a little confused as heads read LH B 003 & RH B 003 the same as Rev-B). The whole point is so I can confirm my shopping list is full and correct, so I may begin pricing it out. Parts A7 or A8 ECU from a WRX. V5/6 Intake manifold, complete. Turbo (I'm going to look at twin scroll). Single turbo water & oil coolant supple and return lines. Single turbo Oil return line (rubber pipe). Single turbo Oil return line (Metal pipe in block). Subaru single turbo exhaust manifold (possibly have one fabricated). Up-pipe (possibly have it fabricated). Downpipe (possibly have it fabricated). Single turbo gear box cross member (required if not using OEM exhaust manifold). Single turbo up-pipe bracket. Turbo Inlet pipe. Crank case breather line 2 meters of vac line. Frost plug 15.5mm Gaskets Intake manifold Throttle body Exhaust manifold Turbo/up-pipe Turbo/downpipe Optional Single turbo solenoid bracket (only to replace the BBoD) Pressure select solenoid (Such as one in the BBoD) Split fuel rail mod (estimated cost, $150), recommended. Right hand fuel rail - if want to do the split fuel rail. 2.5m of EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) hose. A few hose clamps (6 should do it, you can reuse the originals for the rest) 2 T sections A second right hand fuel rail, with luck you picked one up with the intake manifold Only relevant of using top mount interheater Single turbo intercooler Y pipe. Anything from V3/4 and 5/6 will work V3/4 intercooler bracket. Turbo - Y pipe hose

oh that's the best news I could hear guys, thanks. I guess I'll find out if it works in a couple of days when it arrives. I got this one to connect the laptop when diagnosing and tablet for when I want to actively monitor during driving. http://www.stahlcar.nz/diagnostic-tools/obd2-tools/obd2-phone/elm327-bluetooth. Well if it doesn't work at least it didn't cost much.

Thanks, I will look for a vf26 second hand replacement first. But it's tempting to just rebuild and swap the parts on the two turbos. Response is something I really miss with the twin turbo system. If I have no joy finding a replacement within a couple of weeks I'll go ahead making the vf26 BB. It seems the vf26 is becoming harder to come by. You make it sound so easy. Ordered OBD2 reader today. I wonder if that brings anything further to the party. Also seriously contemplating the single conversion still. Although trying to telly up the expense, and research parts required to swap out. Ideally I guess if doing it, you may as well flip the manifold and go front mount, even go for an after marker intake manifold, heck even just get one made up. Decisions, and all these first world probs.

Will def look into cleaning out the system with a can or two of upper engine cleaner, trying to start after the AFM. First I think there is a turbo to replace though. Slept on it, checked oil this morning it's dropped from 2/3rds to 1/3rd full. Went for a drive, seems to be the same slow boost, consistent smoke. Once home left idling for a while and observed smoke coming from under the primary turbo. It didn't look as if it was from the up pipe as if there had dripped on it, maybe the gasket between hotside and up pipe if anything, but I couldn't get a good angle. I'm leaning toward the primary seals are going. So the hunt for a new vf26 and or rebuild it. The secondary I replaced, the turbine/shaft feels pretty solid to the touch with maybe 1mm of play, very minimal. The turbine is definitely not able to touch the housing. Would it have been just seals gone possibly. Oooorrrr Would it be worth rebuilding the vf26 with the turbine and cold side housing of the old vf27 I replaced earlier. What's acceptable shaft play for BB turbos such as the vf27. Refering to tmh983 post over at SubyClub: http://www.subyclub.com/topic/5276-diy-convert-your-tt-primary-turbo-to-ball-bearing/

Boost seems to be sorted from cleaning the vac lines and solenoids to some degree. Primary, as I try glance at the gauge, is peaking 11psi. Seems a bit slow to reach full boost. Secondary gets to about 13psi, but it doesn't get there until I button off. . They both are slow to reach full boost, it does not come on strong. Maybe there is a leak, will look into it. It's tempting now to replace the air intake pipe with the silicone one Rossub posted, and even throw that top mount heater. Other issues to deal to first though. The estranged ticking I could hear has gone from under the bonnet while driving. It seems it was the solenoids making all that noise. There is no noise from BBOD any more. I were so confused thinking it was the lifters, but only on the drivers side. no lifter noises, just the injectors ticking away. Cleaned MAF, fixed the rough idle. It doesn't purr, occasional but barely noticeable miss or late/early detonation? Car is still smoking. This is roughly 150km-200km after swapping out the buggered secondary, and over filling the oil, slightly over the top notch. Being overfilled could it have been pushed out the sump and through the PCV. There was oil in the connecting pipe from the sump to the PCV valve when I cleaned it. So I'm wondering if there is oil through the intake, up pipe, Turbo hot side, and exhaust. It would have gone everywhere if it's started at the intake manifold. I cleaned out the intercooler before installing it this time, so will check it again after a drive. I'll look into the slow gain in boost. Maybe the exhaust gas valve rod needs lengthening in regards to the slow but steady gain in boost specifically on the secondary, I'm pretty sure it's shortened in length.

Thanks Thermos that's been a good read. Back to basics I ran diagnostics. Intake Air Control Valve not doing anything. Also the Exhaust control valve actuator not pushing the rod. Inside the black box I'v a teed into pipe that leads to no where, and it'd seem oil coming from the end that leads to no where. I haven't replaced the pipe in the BBOD yet. or cleaned out the mess, will do in due time.

It seems to me like botched plumbing, but I can not for the life of me see where I've gone wrong. Everything looks connected, maybe something is blocked or gunked up, possibly causing blowby because it cannot vent the crank case, but would blowby use that much oil if I botched the PCV plumbing and the crank case could not breath. I'll shoot into Repco or supercheap I guess this arvo after work and pick up a boost gauge.

1998 BH5 REV-A Subaru Legacy GT (stupid twin turbo) After only owning the car about a month I'm having ongoing problems and it's costing me a fortune. I've had to replace the secondary turbo, and oxygen sensor (only have the front 02 sensor, no rear), and it's had a full service. I've just been to the local Subaru wrecker and explained my problem. What I'm having is **** boost (I do not have a boost gauge, but feels weak. I've previously owned an auto 1998 GTB Legacy, supercharged Toyota Trueno, Turbo Mazda RX7, and in comparison to any of them, this thing I have now is an absolute slug). I'm getting big puffs of blue smoke after engine breaking (obviously burning oil), rough idle, stalling. Living in hilly Dunedin I am to embarrassed to even drive it any more, and don't really want to in case of damaging it further. Anyway the wrecker tells me the primary is most likely blown, which really sucks as I just replaced the secondary. Now I have consistent smoke from the exhaust (not a lot but it's noticeable), but much worse after engine breaking. I'll get a BIG puff and trail after getting back on the accelerator after engine breaking. I pulled the intercooler off two days ago and there was an excess of oil in there, that is only two weeks after doing a service and cleaning the intercooler out. Also the 4.5l (just to the notch on the dipstick) of oil I filled, was gone, the oil only just read on the dip stick, just (No oil leaks from engine, not a drop of oil on the ground where it's parked). I'd kept an eye on the oil pretty much daily after the service and it didn't seem to drop at all, not until after cleaning the vacuum lines and PCV valve, after then it drank it like a fish. There was oil in the primary and secondary turbo. I could blow through the PCV valve, but not suck through it, seems fine. I'd cleaned out vacuum lines with carb cleaner and blew them out, sprayed the solenoids inside BBOD with carb cleaner and tried to blow them out while in diagnostic mode (both green & black wires connected under dash). I did not clean or blow out the boost controller behind the guard. I would clean the BBOD again but it scares me in case I forget what pipe goes where, but I think I'll just have to anyway. There was an excess of oil on a couple of lines inside the BBOD first time around. The car did not smoke like this before cleaning out the vacuum lines and PCV valve. But maybe the primary turbo was on it way out, maybe I knocked a pipe/vacuum line that disconnected from a nipple around the PCV, but I couldn't see any stray hoses? Maybe it's still blowing out oil from when the secondary was replaced, from the inlet, uncleaned vac lines, maybe the cats are blocked up with oil in the exhaust, or pools of oil in there, but if there was oil in the exhaust, but that doesn't explain the excess of oil in the intercooler, and what feels like weak boost. Unless the top notch on the dipstick is over filling the oil while on the flat, engine cold (done in the morning before work). Either way It's really doing my head in and before I bite the bullet and put it in the shop and spend a fortune. I'd like some opinions. What the hell is wrong, what could I try, Do I try to source a primary if I can even find one. I'd love to just pull the engine and do a single conversion, which I'm beginning to lean to after the nightmare this has been from day one of owning it. Thinking I should have gone for the Toyota Caldine instead of this Subaru. If anyone in the Dunedin area with good knowledge of Legacys wants to have a look and go for a drive you're welcome to, I even invite you to come help try diagnose this bloody thing. Looking at rego papers, car was purchased by last owner in 2011, registered once for 6 months, and never registered again until I brought it three years later. Which leads me to think the previous owner either caused these issues or brought it with these and could never sort them out UPDATE: Picked up boost gauge after work. Primary running 6psi, secondary running 4 psi, but did surge to 14 psi once on initial secondary kicking in very briefly before quickly dropping back to 4 psi during me testing it (second gear 2k rpm - 7k rpm). I'm suspecting a leak or plumbing issue. Will investigate that when the weather is better. What is the best way to test for leaks? Fill manifold with positive, or vacuum with negative pressure and see if I can hear anything and if that holds pressure for 30 mins of so, I can get my hands on a vacuum pump or compressor. There are no error codes. I generally drive like a grandma, nanaing around town, hardely even hitting boost at all. Also when secondary kicked in I'm hearing a fluttery highish sort of pitch noise, which sounds like it's coming from secondary/drivers side, and it increases in pitch it seems as the car revs out, leak there maybe? Also note the smoke clears under boost a little, not completely, but the turbos do not seem to be making any difference or increasing the smoke coming from the exhaust, leading me to rule out turbo issues, although the fluttery whine on the newly replaced secondary has me concerned.

Brilliant thanks for confirming that.

Short intro; I just brought the car, found secondary turbo was blown. Replaced it, and the car is running a little rough as it always has since I've owned it (idle dropping and raising, occasional stall). Engine ej208, I removed the throttle body to clean the iacv and found this. It looks like the wrong gasket? Throttle body with gasket Throttle body no gasket Inlet manifold

Would anything be salvageable on the shagged vf27? I were thinking since I'll be swapping the secondary out anyway, how about try improve upon the initial response of the VF26.

I'm not even going to say how much I paid. The lad who sold it talked a lot of **** is all I can say. I were deceived well . But private sale, what are ya going to do. On a side note. If a vf27 becomes hard to find, what would be another good replacement for it that can bolt on. I don't really want to mess with this car a lot, and pump endless money into it.

That's exactly it Rosssub, fine until 4k then as you say smokes like a train, maybe even worse. Thank you so much for the link Oh yes of course 94 Leone, my bad. I searched for the rear 02 sensor and couldn't find one. I'm thinking it's probably had quite a bit of neglect under the hood. It is also going through quite a bit of oil, and found some on the ground where I'd parked it as well. It seems everything is pointing at needing to replaced the secondary then