Pappu1

serious?? hmmm that means the v5/6 is the only one diffrent from forrester and tt and v7.. strange

yea for some reason the v7 top hats on the rear are the same s the TT legcies and the forrester is the same as the v6 ...

after running my pads down on the last track day - im in need of some new front pads... 2 questions 1 - where would i be able to get decent street pads for the occational track day - dont want competition pads as my car sees lot of street driving .. 2 - who can fit the pads for me - dont wana do a home job myself.. on a very tight budget so some lighter on the wallet type suggestions be really nice. many thnaks in advance...

the orientation of the top hat can make a difference on camber i have notived...

as an everyday car the wrx is really good.. and not that far behind in performance. guess u have to weigh up how much of wat type or driving u will be doing.. plus the wrx has the nice rumble which the sti lost regretfully

bro to be honest factory subarus dont seem to be problematic i have noticed esp 7+

isint vf22 a much newer design than the td05? depending on the final power u are chasing - u may be better off with something smaller - say a 23 or so which has way more response etc

check all the hoses are connected correctly as a first step also make sure the bov is properly mounted to the pipe does the car drive different coz of that -like splutter or something

getting a nz model be safer as there is proof of history and most likely better cared for (generally speaking) as the past owners wud be few and u can even trace them if needed for more info

think nz efi do testing - 80 of so for a full test and report from memory why u wana test injectors lol.. ur s202 already have the 575 sti pink ones..

v7 sti -v10 sti have the pinks 575cc and can be decapped as discussed here on the olf forum - gets to ~880cc (measured at factory rail pressure i think) the nissan sr20 (s14-15) have similar inkectors to the yellow subaru ones and i know some SR guys running sti v7+ injectors

are they legal while parked up only - no lights on when driving

i have a 3 inch hks dump and 2.5 inch mid section with version 8 resonator welded in place and a 3 inch rear section with a fujitsubo muffler.. the thing flows extremely well - same as my old full 3 inch setup but the biggest difference is that its super quiet - seriously quiet almost like factory version 7 sti levels pretty much drive in a quiet neighborhood at 2am in morning and no one notices you have come home - that quiet.... cannot recomend the fujitsubo setup highly enough!!! best flow for minimum sound ever!!! the 3 inch dump with 2.5 inch mid section should provise ample flow for most street level power (up to 230-250 kw at wheels i reakon) with minimal restriction and yet not lose any low end torque with a full 3 inch, i noticed a distict lack of torque at lower revs but with this new setup i get the factory type feel in the low rpm but distinct freed up top end...

that is pretty good bro - i mean dosent look like u have done much mods at all - what are they anyway...? all i cud pick was u have a vf28 running 14.75 pounds and the rest is standard?

strait bolt on! only thing may be 1 rear support braket but some force in and it will be sweet

i may have a v6 sti block with forged pistons etc

put a black mesh on the front - should look stealth but not fully stealt unless u want the whole hide it effect then paint be the cheap option... standard bumper could help hide it better tho

this is just a theory question at this stage: a v7 is defenately heavier than a v6 - by some 200kg im told so will fitting v6 struts on a v7 make it sit a tad lower due to increased weight (ride heights compared aginst standard v6 and v7)

all right then - new policy - 1 - fill up a smidge over the full mark 2 - limit the revs to say 6k (or is that still too high - how about 5.5k) 3 - use moderate boost - max ever 15-16 psi and yea i think the v7 sumps may be different - but not entirely sure in any case, that should cover me for street tire usage

lol.. yea could be...next week, im getting wheel a swap done with a mate so should have some toyo proxy i think.. in any case, i guess my question was answerd - on reqular street tires, the sump baffle mod is not necessary as not generating enough forces to warrant oil issues

the tires are pretty new - like 90% or so tread so be a few track days in there i hope. i use 4 litres to fill minus the amount in the filter - when i do oil.. hmm.. so are u saying forntrack day i have a tad over the full mark on the dipstick? right now i have like a smidge under the full mark - always kept it to that level

wont overfilling oil cause pressure issues as the pickup or something along the lines be dipped far too dipped in the oil - thats what i have been told about overfilling..

my 2 cents.. i have standard rotors and standard pads as per subaru spec 4 pot front/2 pot rears the only thing i did was (*upon good advice from a learned person - thanks brad) put in motum rpf600 (thsts the name i think) fluid chucked braided lines but thats more for feel.. anyway, just the fliud change and bleed did wonders and i had NO break issues at all to be honest, if budget is tight then just do good fluid and bleed and set of standard pads.. not expensive but bloody effective.. for avarage punters anyway.. thats also what the racebreak website says - and also the cool down lap will make sure no uneven pad/rotor wear

question - with the track bug biting me - whatbare the toughts on a baffled sump mod? i mean im not particularly fast as some out there and running on standard road tires (running bridgestone grid 3 type), will i be generating enough forces to be in the teritory of needing a baffled sump? wud rather not spend the moolah if im still out of that zone just yet... but not sure how fast/hard the car has to be driven before its a necessity to have the sump done.. any ideas wud be good - as i have heard that usually on road tires i would not reach the level of grip to warrant issues with the standard sump..

what models would that limit hold true?