Percy

But but, I wanna get all ghetto on it! I have an idea, as you do sometimes when you is an injuneer, just want to know if its feasible before pulling the car to bits.

Thread dredge! Does anyone know what diameter the bushings are in the shifter adapter knuckles?

Flea Bay or Ali Express are the cheapest places I've found any, who knows what teh quality is like though. Either that or they are on Yahoo Auctions Japan.

Roger! Cheers for that, that's one less thing to worry about!

Yeah that looks like way to much work in the time I have, unless its actually leaking, which I don't think it is as the oil level has not changed in the gearbox in the time I've had the car. Does anyone have an alloy kidney plate for an EJ208 lying around?

Look at the torque range you need, that will tell you far more than the drive size. Also try and get one from a reputable brand, like Facom, Norbar or Snap-on if you've won lotto this week. But cereally a good torque wrench will last you for ever if you take care of it. Having said that, not everyone can spring $600+ for one tool, so a Powerbuilt or a Teng one should do the trick.

How hard is the front one to replace?

So apparently the clutch in me GTB is on its way out, have noticed some slippage booting it in 3rd and 4th when teh lolzy booooost arrives, bugger! Anyway, other than rear main seal + shifter bushings, and possibly the kidney plate (not sure if a rev-c GTB has the plastic one?), anything else that should be done whilst the gearbox is oot? And anyone got any recommendations/ super deals for clutches this week?

Remember folks, snow tyres don't help on ice unless they're studded, and studded tyres are apparently illegal in NZ. Most Ski roads will have ice, some of them for long stretches, where chains are a necessity. Also those snow socks are useless on ice as well. I have seen rubber "chains" with metal studs in them, specifically for low clearance vehicles, might pay to look into them.

I saw that earlier, pity we don't currently have the coin for it, it looks mint!

The ones that pressurise the reservoir are bloody good, especially if they automatically keep the fluid level up, but that Tardme one isn't one of those. You can make a ghetto self bleeding kit, you just need something to stop any air bubbles getting back down the line into the system, ziptieing the bleed line up to things above the nipple height works! Mine is like the one below, just not SCA branded! http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-One-Man.aspx?pid=291149#Recommendations

Like this one? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/auction-896018487.htm I have a Powerbuilt one, dont think it was $60, more like $20. Not as flash as the one above, but it does the trick, still have to manually pump the pedal and check the reservoir though. Only took me about 45 mins to bleed the whole car, and that included getting it into the air and back down, which is a pain cos my jack doesnt fit under the front...

I thought that was the case. Oh well, I'll have to limit changing things to those not needing a tune afterwards then!

Bled the brakes, with soper dooper high temp fluid, now I know its all good!

Roger that, might invest in one of them soon then, along with a gauge so I know whats happening! Can a Rev-D ECU be swapped into a Rev-C relatively easily? Or is it a massive hassle changing wiring looms and MAF sensors etc?

Put the Zero Sports Intake pipe on, thanks 41 Automotive! Moar blue and shiny in the engine bay!

I have got into the habit of rev matching pretty much every downshift, so much so I don't even notice I'm doing it now, unless someone mentions it. If you get it right it makes shifting way faster, smoother, and less brutal on everything. I think the habit started with the old cars I learnt to drive in.

Does it have the heater element bits where the wipers sit?

Wagons are a 5 door maybe? I thought B-4 stood for Bilstein times 4. Also aren't they called B-Spec according to "official" Subaru literature anyway?

Find someone with a rivnut tool, take 5 minutes too fix. Or just drill the munted nut out, and stick a nut on the back of the bolt if you can reach in there.

Interesting, I could make me own downpipes, they aren't that complicated. I'll keep my eyes peeled for an EBC thingy, I think my factory stuff is being weird anyway, cleaning it out didn't seem to make any difference to the weirdness, which it should have considering how much crap was in it. With your hose 10 mod, and the hose 1 mod the VOD is pretty minimal (when things aren't being weird!) on my car, its more boost then transition to moar BOOST! Does anyone know what is actually done to the computer when retuning a Rev A-C? I'm guessing they need to change the chip so it can be reflashed?

Picked up some trackday wheels, with 2 good Khumo's on, and 2 very not good Firestones.

Having had another look at my downpipes, I think any smashing even near them will probably destroy them completely! Will pull a heat shield off sometime to confirm the rustyness, but from the bits visible outside the heat shields they are pretty toasted.

[quote name='Andy_Mac said: Will have lots of overboosty anti-goodness with them removed and no tune to fix it What Andy Mac said. The poor old girl has clicked over 235k, so anything more than a very slight boost increase, and she'll probably pop her clogs! Boring out the wastegate isn't an issue for me particularly, just need to get getting a tune sorted before doing all these things.

I do know they can be done, I think it requires changing the chip, or otherwise hacking internals in the computer rather than plugging in a laptop. The downpipes and cats on mine are rather haggard, so when they finally die I will upgrade them to something better, along with a couple of other things, which will require a tune of some sort. There is a ZS controller on tardeme at the moment, however I don't have the $280 the guy is asking, which I think is to much anyway.