jsdub1

I know this thread is a bit old but I thought I'd share. I had lots of jerking around when the car was cold and lots of misfires as well. Usually drove normally when it was warm. Turned out to be contaminated fuel. Pull your pump assembly, any contamination will be obvious (mine was a nasty looking white slime). Ended up killing an injector. Lots of cans of fuel treatment / system cleaner later and it still comes back from time to time so I will be dropping the tank and replacing this summer.

compression was done maybe 2 or three weeks ago. I think I got it figured out though. I was initially going to ignore the injectors since I just had them cleaned and tested and they came back OK. I was inspecting FPR and replacing gaskets last night and I thought I'd double check injectors / other connections etc. turns out the one they mentioned was drippy during the test died completely. No change to idle when I pulled the plug. moved it back one cylinder to confirm it was the injector and not the electrical connector. thank goodness. found a matching set I'm going to pop on in today and then go for a spirited drive.

Hi marky No CEL for o2 sensor when unplugged. Car runs the same with / without

Ok, here's the story: Car: 2000 GT-B e-tune 5 MT Car is imported in June, runs great. Timing belt / water pump done right after import. Car slowly started to develop hesitation, weak acceleration end of october. I suspected a vac leak and checked quite thoroughly for those spraying tons of contact cleaner around all the parts of the intake system. Nothing. boost gauge holds ROCK steady at 17inHg at idle. Other than the hesitation, no problem. This develops into occasional misfires. I can feel the engine go "bump" - the car shakes slightly, every now and then at idle. Car will also shudder under boost in twin mode. Only tested it a couple times, because I didn't like how i felt - was around 4-6k rpms. problem was intermittent. Sometimes it would happen, sometimes it wouldn't. Then the same judder / mis under boost also happened in single mode - 2.5 to 4k rpms under light to mid throttle. Misfire at idle is now much more frequent, although still random. does not seem to follow any rhyme or reason. A few put put put put sounds here and there , for a minute, then stops for the rest of my drive. Other days it would be almost undriveable because of the misfire and hesitation. Then, on cold start, the car would not want to go anywhere. As in, i would give it throttle and it would want to die and buck hesitate violently. Violently. Would give it throttle but it didn't seem like the car was getting any fuel. I would let the car idle for a few or drive very slowly for a few blocks and it would sort itself out. Idle was smooth, even when that was happening. This issue never persisted when the car was warm. Anyway, it kept getting worse and I had the injectors cleaned and flow tested, one was quite drippy and after reinstalling them, the misfire was gone! WOO RIGHT??! WRONG I put about 60kms on the car - misfire free - I was very happy to finally have this issue resolved after a month. I was driving my misfire free car - it was idling great and running generally as well as it was before all this started. The hesitation after cold start remained, but I chalked it up to a mis calibrated TPS. I went inside the bank to deposit a cheque and came back out to my car. I started it up and something was different. VERY rough. I thought it was the cold start hesitation issue still. Nope, casr began to run very rough, almost like it's on three cylinders. Would smooth out at higher rpms but idle was atrocious. Shaking car. limped it home as I was only a couple of minutes away. Swapped on a new throttle body with a calibrated TPS and fired it up. Kind of rough, but better ish. Drove it around a bit. Parked and turned it off. Went into a shop. Came out and the car would not stay on. It would start and then idle for about 5- 10 seconds then peter out and die. No CEL. I tried about 5 times. No dice. I unplugged the Coolant temperature sensor and tried and the car fired up, very roughly. So that's where I am today. Car has: HKS axle back Blitz SUS pod Refurbed solenoid box new vac line throughout bay Boost gauge. Silicone turbo -> intercooler pipes / coupler Line 10 Line 1 Stock other than that I have replaced or tested the following potential causes when I was hunting for my misfire gremlin - plugs NGK BKR6EIX - gapped to .6mm - Coil packs (swapped with known working, and back, same conditions) - tested for vac leaks with contact cleaner - boost gauge holds -17inHg - MAF - swapped with known working, same conditions. - injectors - cleaned and flowtested - compression test - 147 all 4 cylinders - 6 cranks tested each twice. - burped coolant system (no bubbles), coolant also recently changed - subaru oem - new TPS - same conditions - inspected plugs after around 1000kms - carbon fouled, no oil - o2 sensor - same conditions with sensor plugged in or not - cleaned all my engine grounds - inspected fuel pressure regulator, no fuel in vac line - no oil in coolant - no coolant in oil (recently changed) - no bubble in coolant on cold start or warm - ran seafoam cleaner through tank, crankcase and upper engine - new knock sensor - no change pending items - fuel filter on order - coolant temperature sensor on order - test fuel pump voltage drop Are there any other diagnostics I could run cheaply before I take the nuclear option and just buy everything it could possibly be? Does this jump at at anyone as something? Honestly I used to love this car but I am coming to hate it. It's getting quite cold here in Canada. Can you help me love my baby again?! Edit: NO CEL or stored codes Many thanks for your time and replies, J

oof good to know, I will not do that anymore! The issue hasn't come back since I cleaned the MAF and Idle Air Control solenoid, hopefully that's it! The revs don't drop and bounce off 100 rpm anymore either. Thanks for the help!

A) Oh, just rolling up to a light or stop sign, usually for less than 50 metres. Not slipping the clutch or anything. B) stock recirculating BOV. Cleaned the MAF with electric parts cleaner over the weekend (sprayed about half the can on there lol), also cleaned the Idle Air Control valve solenoid. Hasn't happened since. It doesn't look like any of this stuff was cleaned or replaced in Japan. Thanks for the reply!

Hi all, Fairly new here, had my GT-B for about a month and I am hooked. I have a strange problem, it's not really serious but kind of annoying. I find that after I have been cruising around for a while, particularly after a long while under boost (think highway or spirited driving) if I am holding the clutch in while coasting, the engine turns off. I noticed it initially on my drive home from the docks. It happened 2 or 3 times in one drive last night, which is unusual. It doesn't happen very often. After the drive, I let the car idle for a few minutes, then shut it off for approximately 1.5 hrs. I came back to it and it didn't want to start. It just kept turning over. Stopped, tried again, it started after about 10 seconds. I have had a couple times lately where the car didn't start up immediately like it usually does, but didn't think much of it. It's a rev C e-tune I am thinking it's related to the fuel or ignition system? fuel pump / filter? coil packs or plugs? Am I completely wrong? lol I haven't changed any of these since getting the car. Will try cleaning the MAF, MAP, & IACV solenoid this afternoon. Any experience you could share would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks! I think so too. Just found Looking around before crying for help - what a concept! Ha yea sorry for the crap pics. Performance gains are undeniable. Really appreciate your help!

Here's what I did it's a Rev c e-tune http://imgur.com/NwxfDIz,4VqFDGC,OC9AbgE,QxfRhxI

Thanks Mark, I am quite sure I've got it right, basically I just removed that T in the hose from manifold to BOV. Line 10 already met up underneath the recirc tube on the BOV, with the line 10 from the guard on the intake tube. I just cleaned it up with fresh tube.

Sorry for reviving a dead thread. Read the whole thing and did the mod. Straight hose to BOV. I'm confused about the second blue T connection underneath. Originally, one side had line 10 from the metal line 10, one side from the T in the manifold and one side coming from line 10 from the passenger side guard. Now I've got one from the manifold to BOV, both line 10s join at the T to the nipple. Is this correct. Thanks on advance, sorry for the noob question. Jon