spark_38
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Posts posted by spark_38
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I won't be coming either.
Two places in the Hutt mentioned in previous thread have parking for 10+ cars: Wholly Pizza (Lower Hutt) and Art of Pizza (Upper Hutt). I gave a review of the latter after I went there with a small group.
Is the meet going to be in J'ville next month too? If so; that's 6 months in a row!!!
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That pizza place was nice. Prices range from $12-26 for a roughly 32cm pizza. I didn't finish mine, leftovers for lunch tmrw.
The dine-in was booked out. We had a small group of about 7, ordered takeaway and it took no longer than 15-20mins - not bad, considering they were made on the spot. My mate even got a free "Taranaki" beer, I didn't even realize Taranaki had their own branded beer
They can cater for groups of say 18-25, but require two weeks notice. I was going to suggest July as a possible meet? But realized I'll be in Aucks for last two weeks. How about August?
Jase, I still have some beer here in my garage with your name on it. Missed you at the last meet I wasn't there, and the previous one you weren't there
True. I haven't been to many meets - unlikely to make the one next week, as I'm assuming it'll be in J/ville again...
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A few of us are going to try out 'The Art of Pizza' in Upper Hutt on Weds night; as part of our end-of-course outing for Intermediate Electronics cse.
Will advise of outcome...
Good news is: they have plenty off-street parking, large carpark behind the VTNZ
Will suss out the size and potential catering to medium sized groups - it maybe feasible to have a meet out here, since 4+ of us are out this ways
Their website is still under construction. http://artofpizza.co.nz/
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I could be keen to put the wagon on. See how much power a 336,xxx km motor can put out without blowing up!
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Oops, I meant having the meets in J/ville... last two months (i missed) and this one... one wonders where the next one will be
I will be based in the outskirts of Upper Hut shortly, and the drive won't be feasible. I'm not suggesting a meet out there, as only 2-3 of us are there - and let's be fair it's a s**thole
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Gone are the days of burning CD's. I can't recall the last time I played one. I haven't used a CD in my last two headunits: Pioneer DEH-6350SD and the current DEH-6450BT. With USB, SD card, bluetooth audio, auxiliary inputs - there is no need for the CD player. Someone else with the same unit agrees with this theory too!
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http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-CDIB100II-Ipod-Interface-Adapter/dp/B000FI71SG/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_b
That's not a bad price, they used to be a lot more.
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need a sub
in I.C.E.
Sorry to hijack but ...
what are the slim line subs like? 12"
/quote]
slim ones non boxed under seat are ok
slim boxed are a lot better of course.
to me they still sound a little tinny maybe not like the bass of a fusion nw12 bridged with a 1000 w rms fusion mono block ! now we're talking. would recommend fusion sub and amp BUT! only power plant stuff or jonah. dont bother with encounter crap.
Old school power plant, circa-2000's
Just scored a FP4-1000x amp. 125w x4, or 500w x2 bridged. Good bang for buck from the 2001-2003 era.
But yeah old fusion subs like the FPW-10/12, that could handle 450W rms, 900W peak - and even more power, up to 1,500W rms isn't overkill for these!
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need a sub
in I.C.E.
Just picked this up. Streetsoundz. $199. 130x2 (at 4ohm), 440x1 (bridged 4 ohm) rms. Good value. Soundstream aren't too bad. They have plenty left and the sale is tmrw as well.
Ideal for a 4-ohm SVC sub, or running some front component speakers.
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Boschmann have been out for ages. They're a budget brand sadly, not known for their quality-of-reproduction.
Yeah Joe had them in his RS and even amped with a 4-channel. I wasn't overly impressed. A good set of components will beat them anyday!
Or even a entry level set of good components - as mentioned above.
A lot of their range is aimed at replacement of OEM speakers - of course anything is better than those paper cones with foam surrounds.
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In that case, they will be severly underpowered at 22W rms - possibly even 'clipping' if you're driving them hard.
Also off the headunit they generally don't run High pass filters and are often fed too much bass. On Pioneer headunits I generally use a flat EQ, and Loud on either Off or Low.
Speakers like to be played generally 100Hz and above, leave the 80Hz and below to the subwoofers (that's their job).
Ok, I've had a quick look at the site:
The only speakers I like are these:
http://www.etechnology.co.nz/philips-6.5-240-watt-component-speaker-kit-xidp262294.html
But if you're spending $169 - why not get these? A far superior speaker! I'd pay the $30 extra.
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It's a shame they don't do many 2-way component speakers
When you say they go hard; that's quite a bold statement! In comparison to what other speakers?
Also are they externally amped with 100-125Hz HPF? At say 75W rms (minimum)?
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All I'm running is a small tiny E-Audio 480AB with some DD CS6.5" comps and a 8" loaded enclosure. $500-600 maybe. Down from a full blown full Alpine system with all Type-R speakers and subs, and three amps.
Saved about 15kg maybe when I ripped it all out. Cabling was easy a few kg, 2 gauge power feeds.
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6.5" sub??
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genuine new vf22 $1900 http://www.drivenperformance.co.nz/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1204
these guys do club discounts too i think
That's roughly on-par with BNT, at 25-30% trade price. Although I think Driven maybe slightly cheaper!
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It should also be noted my VF28 was 'dodgy', it died shortly after a thrashing at Hampton Downs - seized due to bent shaft. It had the guys at Shred stumped too when they were tuning it - they claimed a VF28 should have offered better mid-range performance.
Also the so-called 'lag' in the VF22 can be dialled out in the Link ECU, or any aftermarket ECU (for that matter).
Below is the 'road tune' on a Possumlink, with the VF22? Notice it doesn't start dropping off until 7,000rpm - a dyno tune would have yielded a more smoother response as the power curve should almost be linear
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Yeah I saw a few cars were a bit rough afterwards. One car caught a tree?
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That dyno plot was with the VF28 - gained an extra 30kW just from going Possumlink to G4. Easy power there! Possumlink was rather annoying; kept stalling.
Back to original q: what are you using car for? Top speed: tracks and drag racing? Or response: daily driving & auto crosses?
I am aiming for top speed (track work), don't care too much for auto-x events - unless it's like slipway where one can do skids and donuts
So I should really be looking at a Holset or Garrett. Looking thru the Megameet pics - the south island guys have the right idea. Some nice big turbos there!
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Here we go, dyno plots with a VF28 tuned on a Link G4 plug-in. Once I reassemble car and get it retuned with the VF22, we shall see the difference... notice after 5,500rpm it tapers off quite quickly - peak torque at 5067rpm
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To get back on topic, my experiences with it and the RA box:
If you're running only 1bar of boost - it maybe insufficient to spool the VF22 properly. Unless you run more boost 1.2-1.3 bar, stick with a smaller turbo.
I've used the VF22, 23, 24, 28 on a std 5spd RA box, the VF24/28 did offer better response for normal daily driving. However they are useless on the track - run out of puff halfway down the straight on Manfeild/Taupo tracks!
Then I went to a possumlink and a VF22 - on a road tune; it was surprisingly smooth on 18-20psi, didn't really notice much lag - and as Nick mentioned earlier it was still pulling when 5th gear was near redlining (about 220km/hr).
For auto-cross use where 1st and 2nd are normally used; again not very practical - the smaller turbo or TD04 equiv is better suited.
So it depends if you are going to do autocrosses or track work? That would decide what turbo you're going to run, unless you want to run multiple tunes/maps on your ecu and change the turbo to suit?
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The chinese bulbs don't last. They are often found in the cheap 'hid' kits sold throughout trademe/jaycar, etc... I've had a few blow out.
Was chatting to the Hella rep recently, and he said the factory bulbs almost never blow. Even after 10+ years. The light does yellow with age - and as such you can also get lower K rated bulbs if you didn't want to replace both.
Factory ones are usually around 5k, the higher the k, the whiter the light, less brightness. 5500k is about the sweet spot, I think. 8000k and above they almost tending towards the blue end of the light spectrum.
He also mentioned most HID bulbs are made by either Philips or Panasonic(?), and repackaged. All the Narva, Hella, Osram, etc... ones are anyway.
Had to replace the ones in a mates V7 STi, they were around $140 a bulb (trade) for the Philips (German) ones.
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Welly Visit 27th July
in Wellington / Kapiti
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Buggger. I'm in Blenheim (Woodbourne) from tmrw morning until Sat the 28th.