Stoffa

http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals

Standard td05's on Wrx's have a 90 degree bend on the compressor cover, if your V2 is a stock setup you'd have to change around your setup a little unless you can use a 90 degree silicon bend on the front of the 22. sorry i'm not more help but everyone seems to be missing your question

Just wanting a little info. Do foresters have same version numbers as Wrx's? i.e 1999 is a V5 What turbo come's on a non sti 1999? How many km's should I get out of a tank of gas around town in a manual one? I was looking at non turbo ones, but there's not too many tidy ones around and people seem to want almost as much money as turbo ones are selling for

sorry, I didn't know they made them that big, just measured up a factory V7 sti one, 42mm or 1.65 inches OD. Is the outlet on your manifold 3 inches? seems rather large but to answer your original question, if the uppipe outlet is smaller than the inlet, its only going to speed up the exhaust as it enters your turbo.

sweet thanks guys i'll look into that

that seems rather large for an up pipe, are you sure you dont mean down pipe? uppipe goes between exhaust manifold and turbo, downpipe connects the back of the turbo to the rest of the exhaust. I run 2 1/2 inch down pipe into a 3 inch exhaust with no issues

Just wondering for you guys/girls that get on the track, what sort of water temps are you getting? I'm looking at installing a warning light for when it gets too hot, I've already got oil temp and pressure gauges, I really dont want anymore gauges.

Version 5, so off set bolts

I got some aluminium flexi hose from road and track, its easily bent into shape, then it holds it shape, I just cable tied it to my FMIC piping. its good stuff

Does anyone know where to buy or get some made in NZ?

there you go 98 WRX I learnt something today, I know how the restrictor pill works now http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?id=3482&rsku=0

sweet, problem solved, it'll be like driving a new car with a good tune. jelous....i'm missing not driving mine now

I was told the purge solenoid opens at certain times to suck the fuel vapours out of the carbon canister and sucks them back into the inlet manifold so they can be reburnt instead of being release into the atmosphere, isn't much of an issue to unplug, i'm just removing it completely, by pluging it you make it useless anyway. As for the fuel tank breather, not exactly sure why you shouldn't plug it, but it could have something to do with the whole left/right side of the tank, subies run some kind of vacuum set up in the tank so fuel can be picked up from both sides of the tank, as the fuel pump only picks up from the drivers side of the car. if you leave the lines unblocked it will suck fresh air into the manifold when the solenoid opens, swindog still has the line between the solenoid and inlet manifold connected. otherwise he would have a constant vacuum leak. please note, all this info is secondhand, so some of what i'm saying could be wrong

dont get all defensive about it, I read it on a forum somewhere, as I said I may(read must) be wrong, I can tell you my mate has a stock V7sti that was missing the pill and he was boosting at 1.4 bar. He has since put an EBC on to sort it out

I think so, its the only thing under the manifold with 2 vacuum lines attached. my v5 sti one has green vacuum nipples. I left mine plugged in untill the link goes in as well.

wholey crap, you guys sound far to intellectual for my wainuiomata ed-u-cation

Are you sure? I thought it was the other way around, thats why when people are missing the pill i.e really big hole, they boost too high? But I have read all this on the internet, and we all know how reliable that can be.

One of the lines is a vent for the fuel tank, that needs to stay venting. I fed mine into a hole in the chassis rail just so there was no chance of fuel vapours igniting in the engine bay. If you've blocking of the other you you may as well disconnect the vacuum lines to the purge control solenoid (leave the electrical plug attached if your still running factory ECU). Then you can remove the lines completly. If you do that you'll have a spare vacuum nipple on the inlet manifold which can tidy things up if your anal.

maybe its an idea for club sub watermarks to be set up on all the photos that get up loaded.....free advertising

My guess is with the bigger exhaust housing on theres not as much back pressure and its causing it to spike. Sorry thats about as far as my knowledge goes. One of my friends had the same problem on a V7 sti, he was hitting 1.2 bar and was missing the boost pill, he ended up getting a electronic boost control now he's got it boosting around 16 psi again. I would suggest buying one, especially with the bigger turbo, they make such a huge difference to how fast the boost comes on, they also stop any spiking once set up properly. I can highly recommend a greddy profec b spec 2, i little tricky to set up but magic once its set. I have been told if you make a new boost pill with a smaller hole in it, it should help the factory set up controll the boost more acurately, not sure how true it is though.

sweet, good info thanks. every tuner i've talked to has mentioned this problem with subie fuel pumps. another thing on my list of stuff to do

when you swapped the turbo over, did you change or modify the vacuum line that run between the turbo housing, boost actuator and the wastegate actuator? If you have swapped any you may now be missing your boost pill from the vacuum lines. it helps the controll the factory boost actuator and stop the boost spiking high. Does the car still run factory ECU and boost control?

you'll still be using your factory solenoid, all a bleed valve does is trick the ECU into thinking its making less boost than it actually is, so your wastegate stays closed a bit longer here, the internet is your friend... http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?s=downloads

could be a vacuum leak as well a stepper motor also known as a Idle Control Solenoid, on a v5 wrx they're on the throttle body, usually they just need a clean

Would it be better to join the new cable closer to the fuel pump? I.e straight off the plug on the top of the fuel tank in the boot? I suppose its only saving a few feet of cable and its not going through any extra connections.