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IZichard

2019 Mod
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Posts posted by IZichard

  1. 17 minutes ago, calebwrx said:

    Haha, good fun eh! You're game with it on the middle setting, I can only handle the lowest. 

    Well it has only been 45 ish mins of driving so far. I feel like the re002s are the saving grace here, it really takes a lot to get them to break loose on flat dry road (today). I might change my mind after some rain. I reckon with the sti front bar too it is going to be a really nice package.

  2. I have aftermarket links and a stock bar, 19mm iirc. I didn't really notice any difference. I only got them as they were cheap on trademe and I am switching to a larger aftermarket swaybar and the plastic links are much more prone to deflect and/or snap. Probably talking very poor performance returns on the dollar with the oem bar even if it is an sti part.

    Are the rear links still the plastic 'C ' links on your chassis? I'm not familiar.

  3. "The kit utilises a high tensile extruded alloy link fitted with ultra low compliance synthetic elastomer bushings. Critical hardware is replaced with high tensile components to match the higher loads. The result is much more precise & direct roll control with up to 25% more effective bar rate available at lower wheel deflection points. This does NOT mean an outright increase in your bar rate but rather a quickening of its effect allowing more bar rate earlier. Link shape & bush mounts are designed to allow maximum sway bar articulation to ensure full suspension travel while acting more directly under vertical load. Standard length maintains correct sway bar operation."

     

    http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC26&sq=28351

  4. Just now, Chase said:


    Yes, I'll be recording it tomorrow morning (as it is still currently warm from driving).

    Nah it doesn't sound like a whine, it's definitely more of a drony type noise. My main confusion is why it would disappear when blipping the accelerator? and why it only happens when cold.

    I understand your confusion, I have only seen worn/loose belts do that before. They slip/squeal until you give it a rev then they grip. However that is nothing like the noise you are describing. Could it be some sort of harmonic frequency issue with something that is spinning at a specific rpm (cold start rpm). Can you recreate it when warm by holding it at cold start rpm?

  5. I have a catless 3inch downpipe for my v7. What do people usually do about the sensor towards the rear flange of the downpipe.

    Is it a sensor for monitoring the catalytic converter in the downpipe or is it for fuel mixture changes in the ecu?

     

    Is it best to keep it? Delete it and use a resistor?

    Any help would be appreciated.

  6. 5 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Because the design of that pink lowering section would have to be horrendously over engineered to try give zero movement. Way more forces at play than one that has an almost straight line between the top hats.

    Think about it this way, a flat one if past the friction point will be pushing/pulling the studs sideways where that design in the same situation will want to lift the far side of the top plate, as well as pushing/pulling AND trying to bend the mount all at the same time.

    I agree that it is a less efficient design than one made specifically for the wagon. Having felt it though I think the bar would bend before the mounts would, they are pretty hefty. I'll have to take it round some corners and see if there is any difference.

  7. 6 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

    You got a pic of how bad it actually is? Powerbuilt make these weird sockets that supposedly still grip on nuts that are up to 85% F***ed. Got a free set myself but haven't yet ruined a nut enough to need them so can't comment on how well they actually work

     

    We have a set of those at work and I have used it with success a couple of times. You typically have to hammer it onto the nut/bolt and use a vice + furious wiggling to get the bolt out afterwards but they do grip the bolt very well.

  8. To my understanding it is, as joker said, a tough WOF. You will likely have to replace brake rotors and pads at all corners for compliance, even if there is still heaps of life left in them. Maybe go to talk to someone at the nearest place the can perform a compliance check and ask them what to expect.

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