IZichard

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IZichard last won the day on October 23

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About IZichard

  • Rank
    Forum Member

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    2000 GGB STi Wagon
    1999 GC8 WRX
  • Location
    Wanaka
  • Occupation
    Apprentice

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  1. Cleaned the GC8 and got it all ready for the Flatnats track day tomorrow!
  2. Quick video with a couple good tips for anyone doing an engine rebuild. I feel like there are a lot of people on here who could learn something from the sealant demonstration!
  3. Maybe look at if the noise is coming from the clutch pedal or the gear linkage. It’s pretty hard for me to speculate without hearing it. If the shift is still smooth I probably wouldn’t worry about it. I would say 3-6hours depending on how quick they are and if there are any rusted fasteners on the turbo or downpipe. 6th gear in my v7 STi is almost the exact same overall ratio as 5th in a 4.444 5-speed. It is definitely usable on the street within the speed limit. Not really on topic though as the question was about the 5-speed.
  4. Anywhere from $200-700 is about typical for a 5-speed. As long as you don’t drive it like a muppet and know how to change gear properly it will be fine. The 5-speed typically only breaks from abuse and/or putting a ridiculously aggressive clutch in. The “ting” could possibly be that the synchros are getting a little tired. I’ve never heard it described as a “ting” before but usually when the synchros get worn you can feel the gears engaging poorly through the gear knob (or hear a slight grind/crunch). If you move it into the next gear more slowly it should help them do their job better. Changing the transmission fluid also may help them last a bit longer. It is fairly common for the synchros to wear out over time in both the 5 and 6 speed gearboxes.
  5. Yeah I am far away from everything, that’s the problem. The proper paint/powder coat options here are $$$ and I only paid $250 for the wheels a couple years ago. Just want something cheap to tidy them up a bit. I recently picked up some nicer wheels for the gc8 anyway. That’s great info to have in here for others but I was looking something off the shelf in a can. Thanks though
  6. Yeah clearly I’m going to spray up the side of the local supermarket with my name in shiny gold. Bit silly but whatever.
  7. Awesome thanks guys. I might have to see if my local mitre 10 can order a couple cans in since Bunnings doesn’t let me order it online.
  8. @Batbaruman Is this the one? https://www.bunnings.co.nz/rust-oleum-340g-universal-paint-and-primer-metallic-pure-gold_p0374318 I knew you told me at some point, I thought I saved it in my phone but couldn't find it. Unfortunately it is only available in store and the nearest Bunnings is 5.5hrs drive from my house haha. I'll have a look around for it elsewhere. That colour looks a little more gold in your thread, the v7 colour is quite yellow. How different are they in person? Repost photo of batbaruman's colour for anyone wondering.
  9. Does anyone know of a readily available paint spray can that is a close colour match to the v7 sti gold wheels? I’m not concerned about getting a perfect match. My set is in a bit of a sorry state and I want to refurbish them but struggling to find a good colour that I can buy locally. We only have a Mitre 10 with three shiny and glittery gold options. Picture of the wheels in question. Cheers
  10. Got the cert plate mounted on my GC8 today and a fresh clean sheet WOF. Finally road legal again!
  11. Took my car in for its lvta cert inspection today. The certifier was happy with everything and it passed, just need to do some paper work and wait for the plate to turn up. I’m so happy after 5 months of trying to get it looked at!
  12. That’s only true if the contact patch of the tyre is completely flat on the road. Toe exaggerates the wear pattern from the camber. If you have 3 degrees of negative camber on a straight flat road doesn’t matter toe in or toe out you will have inside edge wear. In an overly simplified explanation the camber decides where the wear will occur, the toe decides how fast/significant the wear will be. The exact specifics of wheel alignments are a lot more complicated with toe curves, vehicle loading and tyre rollover. Everything about wear changes once you start pushing the car around corners. Like @boon said even with a perfect alignment with a Subaru you will probably end up with some inside edge wear on the fronts. They are a bit front heavy and you need to run some static negative in the front for the car to drive well in the bends so it compromises the wear a little. Can you post up the wheel alignment sheet?
  13. Firstly check the park light switch on top of the steering column is switched off. It’s is very easy to accidentally turn this switch on and is by far the most common cause of a battery drain in a Subaru. Definitely take it to an auto sparky, it is a 5 min check with a multimeter to work out if the draw is within a normal range and the alternator is charging properly. The battery will need to be fully charged first. If it does have a draw it can be slightly more time consuming to find the cause but luckily for you it is a subaru not a euro so more than likely the draw would be related to an aftermarket accessory rather than factory wiring which makes it much easier to find. Hope that helps, I deal with this kind of thing a lot at work.
  14. Looks like I still have one thin washer and you can see the slight bend in the k brace. This is at ride height and you can see there is heaps of clearance. At full droop there is less clearance but I made sure there is still some. The marks on the control arm are not from contact they are from when I used the pry bar.
  15. I have both an Anti Lift Kit and a Cusco K brace on my GC8. I initially used a washer to space down the rear mount enough to clear. I later revisited the issue, bolted it down without the washer and just bent the K brace a small amount with a pry bar so it had clearance. The issue only occurs at full suspension droop so there really doesn't need to be much clearance as this only happens when the wheels are off the ground. Here is a photo of my initial solution but I think bending the K brace slightly is a tidier result. I don't have a photo post bend but I can get under the car and take one if you still aren't sure.