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IZichard

2019 Mod
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Everything posted by IZichard

  1. Kind of more in the style of a v7 STi scoop but designed to fit the gc8 bonnet. Yeah the big v8 scoop on a gc8 looks rough, my car had one when I bought it and changing it back was the first thing I did to the car. I haven’t personally seen his products in person but the Americans rave about them and the stuff he posts on Facebook looks high quality.
  2. Have you seen the one Bakemono sells? He makes a larger scoop for the gc8 bonnet that retains the style of the original scoop. I think he makes them in carbon or fibreglass. I really want one of the carbon ones but there are other more important things my cars need right now haha. Have a look… https://www.bakemono.net/home
  3. Would help to know what car we are talking about here but to me that looks like one of those ridiculous pedestrian airbag things that some newer cars have.
  4. The special part is that they are de-tuned to be slower than the manual STi and that they have an especially boring auto transmission with crappy diffs. 🤦🏻‍♂️ @nihell I know you are really into this idea mate but just sell it and buy the manual STi hatch. I went through the same problem with my old wrx wagon, I really wanted a 6 speed but after a bunch of looking and thinking I just sold my wrx wagon to buy an STi wagon. I swapped all my suspension parts into the new car and I’ve never looked back.
  5. That little metal tab is a brake pad wear indicator, the only function it serves is to make a squealing noise when the pads are getting low. They are not necessary for the function of the pads. Some brands/models have the indicator on 1,2 or all 4 of the pads in a set but it doesn't really matter. The pad with the clip tends to go on the inner brake pad on a sliding caliper since it usually wears marginally faster. Provided the calipers are performing correctly all 4 pads will wear at the same rate and it won't matter that only 1 pad has the indicator.
  6. Nice one! Mine had one dry joint but I re-flowed the solder for all the joins on that little pcb just to be sure. Haven’t had an issue since.
  7. Yeah the box is mounted on the bracket behind the gauges. Just take the two screws off the front and the cover lifts off. Mine was intermittently flicking the oil light on and off so not quite the same symptom but it is something to check before getting a new sensor.
  8. Do you have the original little black box with your oil pressure sensor that retains the oil light in the dash? My Lamco oil pressure had some issues a while ago and it was a bad solder joint in the little black box. Could be worth a look anyway.
  9. Garden sprinkler heads might be an option to consider.
  10. Yes it will do unless someone has already removed it, I had a 20k with a cat in the uppipe. I have also seen a 2001 jdm wrx sedan that also had a cat in the up pipe. The easiest way to tell is that there will be a third plug on the drivers strut tower. Big light grey plug is intake manifold wiring. 4 wire (dark?) grey one is for A/F sensor. 2 wire plug (I think it is black) will be for exhaust temp sensor. This plug will only be there if you have a cat in the uppipe. Hope that helps.
  11. Ok, I might do that with my next order then. So they actually did have the items in stock in your case?
  12. Have they shipped your order out yet? I’ve ordered so many parts from partsouq in the past. Unfortunately they have been really bad at accepting my latest orders showing 30+ of each item in stock, then sending out the order with only half of the items and refunding me for the rest. Then I will get an email a few days later saying all the parts are back in stock. Very frustrating. Those intake manifold gaskets were one of the ones I recently had this happen with so I’m interested to see if you receive them.
  13. Cleaned the GC8 and got it all ready for the Flatnats track day tomorrow!
  14. Quick video with a couple good tips for anyone doing an engine rebuild. I feel like there are a lot of people on here who could learn something from the sealant demonstration!
  15. Maybe look at if the noise is coming from the clutch pedal or the gear linkage. It’s pretty hard for me to speculate without hearing it. If the shift is still smooth I probably wouldn’t worry about it. I would say 3-6hours depending on how quick they are and if there are any rusted fasteners on the turbo or downpipe. 6th gear in my v7 STi is almost the exact same overall ratio as 5th in a 4.444 5-speed. It is definitely usable on the street within the speed limit. Not really on topic though as the question was about the 5-speed.
  16. Anywhere from $200-700 is about typical for a 5-speed. As long as you don’t drive it like a muppet and know how to change gear properly it will be fine. The 5-speed typically only breaks from abuse and/or putting a ridiculously aggressive clutch in. The “ting” could possibly be that the synchros are getting a little tired. I’ve never heard it described as a “ting” before but usually when the synchros get worn you can feel the gears engaging poorly through the gear knob (or hear a slight grind/crunch). If you move it into the next gear more slowly it should help them do their job better. Changing the transmission fluid also may help them last a bit longer. It is fairly common for the synchros to wear out over time in both the 5 and 6 speed gearboxes.
  17. Yeah I am far away from everything, that’s the problem. The proper paint/powder coat options here are $$$ and I only paid $250 for the wheels a couple years ago. Just want something cheap to tidy them up a bit. I recently picked up some nicer wheels for the gc8 anyway. That’s great info to have in here for others but I was looking something off the shelf in a can. Thanks though
  18. Yeah clearly I’m going to spray up the side of the local supermarket with my name in shiny gold. Bit silly but whatever.
  19. Awesome thanks guys. I might have to see if my local mitre 10 can order a couple cans in since Bunnings doesn’t let me order it online.
  20. @Batbaruman Is this the one? https://www.bunnings.co.nz/rust-oleum-340g-universal-paint-and-primer-metallic-pure-gold_p0374318 I knew you told me at some point, I thought I saved it in my phone but couldn't find it. Unfortunately it is only available in store and the nearest Bunnings is 5.5hrs drive from my house haha. I'll have a look around for it elsewhere. That colour looks a little more gold in your thread, the v7 colour is quite yellow. How different are they in person? Repost photo of batbaruman's colour for anyone wondering.
  21. Does anyone know of a readily available paint spray can that is a close colour match to the v7 sti gold wheels? I’m not concerned about getting a perfect match. My set is in a bit of a sorry state and I want to refurbish them but struggling to find a good colour that I can buy locally. We only have a Mitre 10 with three shiny and glittery gold options. Picture of the wheels in question. Cheers
  22. Got the cert plate mounted on my GC8 today and a fresh clean sheet WOF. Finally road legal again!
  23. Took my car in for its lvta cert inspection today. The certifier was happy with everything and it passed, just need to do some paper work and wait for the plate to turn up. I’m so happy after 5 months of trying to get it looked at!
  24. That’s only true if the contact patch of the tyre is completely flat on the road. Toe exaggerates the wear pattern from the camber. If you have 3 degrees of negative camber on a straight flat road doesn’t matter toe in or toe out you will have inside edge wear. In an overly simplified explanation the camber decides where the wear will occur, the toe decides how fast/significant the wear will be. The exact specifics of wheel alignments are a lot more complicated with toe curves, vehicle loading and tyre rollover. Everything about wear changes once you start pushing the car around corners. Like @boon said even with a perfect alignment with a Subaru you will probably end up with some inside edge wear on the fronts. They are a bit front heavy and you need to run some static negative in the front for the car to drive well in the bends so it compromises the wear a little. Can you post up the wheel alignment sheet?
  25. Firstly check the park light switch on top of the steering column is switched off. It’s is very easy to accidentally turn this switch on and is by far the most common cause of a battery drain in a Subaru. Definitely take it to an auto sparky, it is a 5 min check with a multimeter to work out if the draw is within a normal range and the alternator is charging properly. The battery will need to be fully charged first. If it does have a draw it can be slightly more time consuming to find the cause but luckily for you it is a subaru not a euro so more than likely the draw would be related to an aftermarket accessory rather than factory wiring which makes it much easier to find. Hope that helps, I deal with this kind of thing a lot at work.
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