spicyHam

Which one and when was this? They wanted alot more for it than that at henderson.

If you are implying that Winger will give me a discount, i,ll believe that when pigs fly... they wanted 50 bucks just for the diagnostic. Otherwise i havnt actually had to get parts yet, so err... nowhere. My Rsb has never needed engine parts, i buy a newer 'better' B4 and here we are..

Ok then. From who would i be buying from to receive such a discount?

Nope... Perhaps it was the guy i bought it from?? it was a dealer though. And it would have been nearing on two years now.

99 B4. So im guessing thats a negatory. Also these different coloured stickers is mighty confusing.

Hey all, Ive got the check engine light a couple times and a rough idle - diagnostic confirmed that the AFM is playing up. Winger wanted about 550 for the job and the knock sensor so i'm thinking do it myself and save some dosh. I,ve noticed that there are a few people selling reconditioned AFM's on trademe. These are cheaper and some even offer to fit for you right there. I don't know much about this though. Can a AFM even be reconditioned? Is it just some guy taking in old ones and spraying a bit of crc on em? I like the idea of saving cash, but i don't want to go the cheap way only to have to do it again in a short time. I wasn't going to try and clean my current one or get a secondhand part for this very reason, but if enough of you think this works then any advice would be appreciated. Current one has only brought up check engine a couple of times in a week, yet idle is always rough. I also need a new knock sensor, so same deal with that i suppose? Although a bit harder to find. Also, do i need to do nething to the ECU to accept the new part or will it reconfig itself? cheers in advance.

Gave him a ring, none in the right colour in stock sadly. But good prices. - 136 + 9 shipping.

^ Yup, ino... i am now a pansy too.. haha

Hi, just bought a B4 RSK but its spoilerless. would really like a spoiler so am looking to buy one and get it fitted. If any of you guys have one hit me up. Also on that note i'm selling my RSB.. Feel so sad. Heres a link the the auction: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=313813977&ed=true

^ Excellent sir! By the way i find your .gif almost hypnotic.

Hi all, i,ve been wanting to get a strut brace for my leggy but most of the ones i find are made for imprezas. (just like all afm parts sadly.) i know the cars are of a very similar width, does anyone know if the strut braces are interchangeable? then i could just grab a 2ndhand STI one.

K now all we need is that in 2-d in a document with dimensions.

BUMP. Can someone who has one of these 'patterns' and knows they def. work upload it on here, for all the people of clubsubia to enjoy?

The rating system would be horribly complicated if it was going to be fair. I already had a problem with my first car, a Mitsubishi lancer SEi. It was a gutless 1.6 auto SOHC, but because it was a 'lancer' it was associated with faster ones and 3rd party was $550 a year for it.. i looked up a 1.6 corolla (same performance) and that was in the 300s... Unless each model of car was tested individually these sort of situations would be more common and alot worse. The full license for turbo thing is a great idea.. I drove that lancer till i had my restricted and then an average-ish celica untill i got my full, before getting the leggy.. i had two years of driving experience by then, and thats how it should be.

went on another drive today, brake got so hot there was smoke coming off it. So its Def. a brake problem.

from what i could see there were no leaks from the shock. The problem seems to happen when cruising on the motorway when the shock isn't really even doing anything but i spose it could be a possibility. Really hope not tho coz tht wuld be expensive.. [quote name='Jimbob said: was one of your wheels hotter than the other (the dusty one) and sticky caliper is my guess i had same symptoms i rebuilt mine, could just replace calipers Yes that sounds like the same thing. new calipers aye.. Trademe time? lol.

Hey all, Just recently my car has developed a severe shudder coming from the right front wheel. At first i thought it was just in need of a wheel alignment but it was not constant and when it did happen it was really bad, + there was a clunking noise, so when it did it again i stopped and had a look - the brake/wheel in question felt really hot and there was heaps of brake dust. The disc looked a bit scored as well. On a drive today on the m/way (was goin to pitstop, in the end they were too busy >.< ) it was fine at 100kph until i accelerated to 120.. upon slowing down the crazy shudder came back and didn't stop till i went under 65. A friend driving alongside said the wheel was noticeably bouncing up and down. Took wheel off today, suspension arms look okay but im no expert. I Could see that the pads are worn and need changing but this doesn't seem to be a normal result of pads needing changing badly - the metal wear trims haven't even started making much noise yet. I suspect the problem is caused by the brakes, possibly a sticky caliper, but thats as far as i can really get. Any ideas as to a specific cause, or course of action?

$10 for 4l? wow, that is cheap, im cheap but not THAT bad lol. I suppose thrashing is ok if you have the dollars to maintain and fix it, and you actually do fix it - Subi's have such a bad reputation because people don't bother with part 2. I don't think they are unreliable at all, mines been damn good actually. I dont have the dollars to thrash, so i drive carefully 80% of the time - and others in my position should do the same. Young idiots who have no money, stuff their cars at the strip then flog them because they can't afford to fix em is what gives all the cars a bad name.

"who's a nana driver here?" (-raises hand...) Wow some of you guys defend the bloody oil companies like they pay you.. Cheers Reuben for being on the against side but actually saying something constructive. I was kinda exaggerating about the conspiracy thing lol, dont take it so seriously dude. But that said it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if you actually tested samples and found that on average the octane rating is actually less than what it says on the pump. And for the record, i think if you thrash your car with full boost gear changes for two to three months straight you will stuff it no matter what gas you are putting in there. Clubsub guys seem to think putting in the best oils and fuel gives you a license to thrash, when sadly it doesnt.. Though i DID say i wasn't intending to change to 91 from now on, im just surprised it didnt have worse effects - from what ppl on here said about it.

well to be honest id never stick 200 dollar oil in regardless of my position unless it was a race car.. i think thats nuts myself. i,ll see what the oil i got does. Im doing better by bothering to change it at all than 90% of motorists who don't i reckon.. I think my transmission sticks more due to stuffed synchros so oil can only do so much.

Im confuseded.. Last weekend i put 91 gas into my twinturbo legacy by accident. (yes, im stupid, i know) I didnt realise until the tank was already half full, i blame the stupid names they give gas that makes it confusing.. Anyway i was pissed because i know you aren't supposed to use 91 and i was expecting it to run terribly. It was a bit gutless on a hill right after i filled it, And it feels like there might be a slight performance decrease overall (as it should i guess) / engine feels a tiny bit rougher.. but thats it. No pinking, backfiring, jolts, poor idle, anything.. nothing really significant at all.. it still goes alright and even the mileage im getting seems normal.. Whats going on? I remember a thread on here where a dude got yelled at by everyone on here for using 91 until he told them he had a Link in his car, because its supposed to be so bad.. Perhaps ive uncovered a conspiracy where all our gas is really the same octane and premium is just a ripoff? idk. Im kinda feeling a bit disappointed that premium isnt really so premium after all. Has his happened to anyone else? and no, im not intending to use 91 from now on, its not worth wrecking an engine over.

Putting in cheap oil is better than not changing it all dont you think? im on minimum wage, and im a student, 200 dollar oil is a no go for me..

Went to supercheap, bought 4l of Vr1 brand for $36.. that fit my criteria well, coz its CHHEEEP! I like the idea of 'an oil's and oil' too, they all do the same thing at the end of the day.. And i reckon its better to do the job frequently with a cheaper oil, than stretch out oil changes longer or not bothering at all because the oil you buy is 100+ a bottle.

Lol it sucks because its a Subaru gearbox! That and its aged alot. Mine has similiar problems ,1st and 2nd especially difficult sometimes (1st pretty much wont go in unless you are stationary), and reverse doesnt always engage fully. If you can sit at traffic lights and quickly work through all of gears repeatedly and it becomes easier id suspect its the oil. Thats what mine does and i just bought some oil today so i,ll see if it makes any difference.

Yes please, details on how to do. Sequential is GEY, hate having to rev the guts out of the car to get any boost. And no i cant do a single conversion