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Everything posted by saffaclint79

  1. You can use whatever oil you like but if your car is burning oil it won’t make a single bit of a difference.
  2. A mate is looking at buying an '06 on Legacy and wants to know which models have the twin scroll turbo, and if you can find out just by looking? Is there a model number that's easy to find? Cheers guys.
  3. Fair enough, didn't think of that, probably because I have no idea where the fuel pump is?
  4. Curious to know if it's possible to siphon petrol from my tank? I haven't tried and really don't want to be outside in the dark working it out on my own, lol. Cheers
  5. Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna see if I can find someone to help, (hold my hand) Lol
  6. So I finally found out where the loud clunk is coming from on our car. It's particularly bad when I put the car in reverse by the way. I got under it today at work and discovered the rear diff mounts/bushes are stuffed. Anyone ever had these replaced and if so what was the cost? Had anyone changed them on their own and how difficult is it too do? Cheers.
  7. I had the same thought about the hoses so I took everything off again and refitted the intercooler bring careful to make sure the hoses etc are tight. Took it for a drive, same problem!! I had a look in the foot well of the car and can't see the green and black plugs, do you need to be a midget Chinese contortionist to be able to get in there and find them?
  8. The car drives fine so long as I don't give it the beans and get the second turbo involved, lol. It idles fine and feels no different to how it did before that knock sensor started freaking out. There's no real noise but say I'm doing 80kph and plant it, the car revs, boosts like normal and then just when you expect it to lift its skirt and haul arse its like the most intense speed cut kicks in and the whole car kinda lurches and shudders. It's hard to describe but it's actually kinda scary.
  9. No boost gauge, I've only ever kept the car standard so having one has never been important to me.
  10. We didn't disconnect any vacuum lines when we removed the intercooler so I can't see how any of the lines would be in the wrong place etc? I'm sick of the ****ing car and want rid of it TBH. I might get another Subaru but more than likely a manual and definitely non turbo, maybe a 3.0 H6. Obviously this problem needs fixed but it's driving me to madness, it seems to be costing money every few weeks. New radiator, rocker cover gaskets, new inner CV boots, new power steering rack ends, new brake pads, new knock sensor, bulbs etc etc etc and I've not owned it 2 years yet.
  11. Got to work early and decided to look at what we had done and see if anything was out of place. There was a hose that hadn't been clamped and was loose on its fitting so to speak. I removed the intercooler and looked for anything out of place where we had been working on the knock sensor but couldn't see anything. I put it all back together and took it for a drive, NO CHANGE! It's just not boosting right and when I put my foot flat the rec'd rise and you feel boost building but all if a sudden, around 4k the car just hits a wall and makes a horrible noise that makes you instantly back off. It's that bad that it feels like the whole driveline wants to lock up, it scares the **** out of me!!! Only option is to take it to a mechanic and see what's what.
  12. Got the car fixed and warranted, thanks for the help.
  13. It's a 2000 (BE5) Legacy Blitzen. I got the part from BNT but thinking back now that code wasn't cleared? Mate unplugged the battery, should have used his diagnostic tool in hindsight. As for the knock sensor being overtightened, we torqued it the recommended amount and put it back in at the right angle. I'm thinking I'm going to take the intercooler out and check all the hoses etc and see about getting the code cleared properly. Since the replacement the check engine light hasn't come on again and the car definitely isn't stuttering and under powered.
  14. I replaced my knock sensor a couple days ago with the help of an auto sparky friend. It all went well but something just isn't right with the car now. It goes OK when you take off from a stand still and is OK on the open road but as soon as I bury the throttle **** goes haywire! It seems slow to boost and then when it should be on the second turbo it boosts like mad but then cuts out and gets all kind of jerky if that makes sense? I've done some research online and I've got a feeling a restrictor pill might have gone missing during the job? The question now is from where, how do I find out where they're meant to be fitted, where do I get the part/s? I've looked for pictures etc online but they confuse the living **** out of me as every one seems different. Stupid cars!!!
  15. I get trade prices on parts so I'll look at getting it sorted on Tuesday hopefully, thanks guys.
  16. Thanks guys, so it's the inner rod? Would have been good to get some detailed bloody info from them!
  17. Hey guys, failed a warrant today and problem listed was "power steering worn rack end". The techs were busy so I couldn't get details but I'm trying to work out if the seals are shot or if it's the tie rod end that's poked? How difficult/expensive to fix? Thanks.
  18. Southland, not even, OTAGO represent, lol. Lost access to my old email account so had to register all over again.
  19. Hey guys, I own a BE5 Blitzen 4EAT and the tiptronic gearbox is doing something odd. In auto mode it shifts perfectly and smoothly, in tiptronic it shifts up and down with no problems. Ok, so what's the problem!? When I flip the lever over to manual mode, sometimes the number/gear flashes up on the dash, other times it doesn't at all, other times it flashes up that it's in say 4'th gear even though I'm stationary at the lights. When you go to change gears it upshifts perfectly but there really seems to be a disconnect between the gearbox and the dash. Anyone heard anything like this before and know what the trouble might be? I have done a transmission flush by the way. Thanks.