pl0x
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Posts posted by pl0x
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I have a front mount at mo & flipped manifold so i cant comment on the lag because never had it any different
but i get no overheating probs and everything is standard fan setup etc
i like the look of front mounts but i am still trying to cut/mould the bumper to suit and get it looking good.
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mint what do you drive ill look out for you at beach hop? was gona post a pic of my car in the Impreza pictures section once i get it back. and done a few things to it before i go to beach hop.
Dont really mind about the price to be quite honest i just want it done for next week and when the take the engine out im getting rocker covers resealed and cam belt checked and going to get the head repainted while im at it so its good to get it all done at once.
lol i wont drive it much!! attracts to much attention and on beach hop thats not a good thing with all the v8 dudes round! lol ive seen jap cars getting bottled more than once
But its a bucktoothed black legacy lol if u see it u will know what i mean
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Where can i find this motor??? sounds like a cheap alternative for mine now that its gotta knock. possum bourne motorsports are selling a high performance one with all forged for 3800. would that be a good option to keep the motor forged and closer to the original?
personally i dont see the point in fully forged block unless it huge power or piece of mind your wanting
a v7 short block from wingers is 2.5k which has better rod design (i think) which means they dont run big ends
this also could be because of there different sump design (again i think)
what version engine is the possum one? is it only a short block?
(Edit) also a v7 block from wingers is semi forged so should handle 20psi with ease
no matter what short block you get your still going to have get seals, gaskets etc which is gna be 1k at least
and your still going to need to get the heads cc'd to make surte you get the right compresstion
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i dont see why u wouldnt already have 440cc injectors if it is a sti?
unless u mean upgrade from 440cc to bigger? if i was you id get bigger injectors and get it tune (g4) with them
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F*** it im getting it done, need it for next week to drive to beach hop haha.
so they gonna pull it out tomorrow and send the heads away to get done then should have it back tuesday hopefully.
Prob gona cost 2-2500 but o well then itll be done for sure.
lol ill c u at beach hop then
yea id say max of 1k for parts thats with cambelt & water pump etc
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lol ive gota say it was quite funny
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I didnt know they had anything to do with the heads. ive never heard anyone say anything about heads matching closed deck blocks etc
Would pay to ask someone that knows lol not me.
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that wont matter? i think ur new block will just be semi-closed? doubt it will matter until you start making BIG power
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mhm cant seem to find one lol
there this:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-208554840.htm
normal there is winger subaru short blocks on there musta run out or auction finished and havnt relisted yet etc
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Wingers?
there got some on trademe for 2.5g
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anit tdo5h 16g good for 250kw atw with right fuel set up?
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Do you let it warm up?
could be that pistons/piston rings haven't expanded and sealed yet or not sealing as good as it use
my car pretty much spits oil/carbon out the exhuast on start up and if i give it some revs
like i still have black marks on the concrete from months ago lol (i have a dumpy)
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i got a mate with a gt he took me for a boost and it always ran 14psi on 2ndary
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Well i just got mine done today, by Andy Ward, out in the Hutt. It passed and i will get the plate in about 1 week, cost: $450, of the 4 poeple that do it in wellington, two were over 500 and i could not get hold of the other one. Very quick and painless.
What was the goer with height? did he check to make sure everything over 100mm or what?
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start with the closet brake caliper to the master cylinder pumped the brake pedal several times and held it to the floor ,loosen the 7mm bleeder nut ,i had a clear hose from the bleeder nipple to a glass jar with brake fluid in it ,with the person still holding pedal to floor then opened the bleeder just enough to watch the old fluid come out. I used the ate super blue fluid so i could watch when the new blue came out. You must keep the master cylinder topped up at all time so you don't get air in the system, you do this as many times per brake line until old fluid is pumped out.I worked my way from shortest brake line to longest. I not absolutely positive that this is the right subaru procedure, I can't remember where i found my info but i normally search the forums. MY brakes have been working great since the brake upgrade, and i recommend going to the scoobymod brake booster adjustment i did a couple weeks ago and it was great improvement. Hope That helps.Don,t open the bleeder to far or it can suck air in their also.
This is from jokers link above
So when pumping brakes it that with car on or off?
and im doing front swap aswell so only front will need doing unless i get air in right?
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I just brought some i told them its a v4 sti with 294mm rotors and they gave me the goods
havnt fitted them yet so cant say there right yet but they should be
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Yea i think that could be quite a good idea lol
keep us posted to see how well it works
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mold them in your self, bita bog & paint, u will be away
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Fast and the Furious 4-who is watching?
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