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pl0x

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Posts posted by pl0x

  1.  DPI']

    [quote name='GregNZ101 said:

    he did but my car was well above 100mm, i don't like scraping everywhere. ;D

    /quote]

    For a certed vehicle, the 100mm rule does not apply.

    What rule does apply? when is it to low?

  2.  willz52 said:

    mint what do you drive ill look out for you at beach hop? was gona post a pic of my car in the Impreza pictures section once i get it back. and done a few things to it before i go to beach hop.

    Dont really mind about the price to be quite honest i just want it done for next week and when the take the engine out im getting rocker covers resealed and cam belt checked and going to get the head repainted while im at it so its good to get it all done at once.

    lol i wont drive it much!! attracts to much attention and on beach hop thats not a good thing with all the v8 dudes round! lol ive seen jap cars getting bottled more than once

    But its a bucktoothed black legacy lol if u see it u will know what i mean

  3.  matty981 said:

    Where can i find this motor??? sounds like a cheap alternative for mine now that its gotta knock. possum bourne motorsports are selling a high performance one with all forged for 3800. would that be a good option to keep the motor forged and closer to the original?

    personally i dont see the point in fully forged block unless it huge power or piece of mind your wanting

    a v7 short block from wingers is 2.5k which has better rod design (i think) which means they dont run big ends

    this also could be because of there different sump design (again i think)

    what version engine is the possum one? is it only a short block?

    (Edit) also a v7 block from wingers is semi forged so should handle 20psi with ease

    no matter what short block you get your still going to have get seals, gaskets etc which is gna be 1k at least

    and your still going to need to get the heads cc'd to make surte you get the right compresstion

  4.  willz52 said:

    F*** it im getting it done, need it for next week to drive to beach hop haha.

    so they gonna pull it out tomorrow and send the heads away to get done then should have it back tuesday hopefully.

    Prob gona cost 2-2500 but o well then itll be done for sure.

    lol ill c u at beach hop then :P

    yea id say max of 1k for parts thats with cambelt & water pump etc

  5.  MrAlan said:

    oh yeah sorry, guess that info would be useful. 2000 legacy blitzen, 98,000km and the colour of the smoke is mostly a light gray colour.

    light gray im guessing is classed as white smoke

    cant rember

    white=what?

    blue=oil?

    mind blank....

  6.  MrAlan said:

    it's fine once I start driving, just on ignition if spurts a nice big cloud of smoke out the back. happens about 75% of the time.

    What year/model car you got? single or twin turbo? how many kms on engine?

    also what colour is the smoke?

  7. Do you let it warm up?

    could be that pistons/piston rings haven't expanded and sealed yet or not sealing as good as it use

    my car pretty much spits oil/carbon out the exhuast on start up and if i give it some revs

    like i still have black marks on the concrete from months ago lol (i have a dumpy)

  8.  funkytown said:

    ok, so my crank is split in two - everyone happy now..

    block is coming out and think il be selling the car off

    Crank in two? never heard that before, shit rats

    sti crank cant be more than $200? why not rebuild?

  9.  GregNZ101 said:

    Well i just got mine done today, by Andy Ward, out in the Hutt. It passed and i will get the plate in about 1 week, cost: $450, of the 4 poeple that do it in wellington, two were over 500 and i could not get hold of the other one. Very quick and painless.

    What was the goer with height? did he check to make sure everything over 100mm or what?

  10.  
    start with the closet brake caliper to the master cylinder pumped the brake pedal several times and held it to the floor ,loosen the 7mm bleeder nut ,i had a clear hose from the bleeder nipple to a glass jar with brake fluid in it ,with the person still holding pedal to floor then opened the bleeder just enough to watch the old fluid come out. I used the ate super blue fluid so i could watch when the new blue came out. You must keep the master cylinder topped up at all time so you don't get air in the system, you do this as many times per brake line until old fluid is pumped out.I worked my way from shortest brake line to longest. I not absolutely positive that this is the right subaru procedure, I can't remember where i found my info but i normally search the forums. MY brakes have been working great since the brake upgrade, and i recommend going to the scoobymod brake booster adjustment i did a couple weeks ago and it was great improvement. Hope That helps.Don,t open the bleeder to far or it can suck air in their also.

    This is from jokers link above

    So when pumping brakes it that with car on or off?

    and im doing front swap aswell so only front will need doing unless i get air in right?

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