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Niran

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Posts posted by Niran

  1.  Dairusire said:
    To be frank with you, if you're not sure on it, and you can't remember when it was replaced anyway, just go ahead and replace it. If it's doing it now, it'll definitely do it with a power increase.

    I've managed to get my clutch BS mostly sorted in my car and the clutch is actually really quite nice from Drews, so I'll rate it as so.

    Price: 10/10 - can't beat it really cost me $799 incl shipping for Clutch kit with uprated pressure plate and billet light weight flywheel.

    Quality: so far so good, but early days, will give 8/10

    That's awesome feedback man, thanks. Definitely cant beat that price point! Ps, how do you like the lightened fly wheel? How does it change the driving experience for you? Oh and How does the pedal feel and where does it engage?

    I am tossing up between the drews package and just the standard clutch (a few people are saying it works great and lasts for ages even with increased power). Please correct me if i'm wrong :)

  2.  lachlan said:
    Theres 2 big fkn dails in front of the steering wheel that tell you if the clutch is slipping

    Yeah well its pretty obvious when your clutch is completely worn and it slips. The whole point of the post was that i'm not sure how much life it has in it, and if it will be ok to tune given its current condition:

    1. Engages at the top with very little range of control.

    2. Seems to bite and have good engagement through 1st and 2nd gears

    3. 3rd/4th/5th/6th is where i cant tell if the clutch is slipping slightly. The boost spikes to 1.5bar + and the car doesn't really match that in road speed, if that makes any sense.

    4. Drove it up a slight hill on 5th at low rpm and it sticks, no slipping.

    So yeah, thats why im a bit confused!

  3.  KingCole said:
    We ran it with the factory airbox, then aluminum intake (not inlet) with and without a filter and just a mesh around the intake. Still the same issue. Trust me, the pipe is just collapsing on boost no question about it.

    Good call on LDS Fab though, got a very good price from him.

    How much did he quote you bro? Curious

  4.  kwi_fozze said:
    My v7 sti was running a brand new genuine sti clutch. Iirc it was $730 for the full kit, exceedy branded high clamp number.

    Mine lasted God knows how many launches and over 40k of daily thrashing, with over 220kw at the wheels. still going hard when I sold it. Should only need to skim the flywheel

    Cheers man, I have read this a lot too. So to confirm you got a stock exedy clutch, with uprated clamp pressure? Re Flywheel - I guess if im going to have to spend the money to get the clutch out, i may as well pay for a lightened flywheel too? Unless the gains are not noticeable, therefore waste of money?

  5.  evowrx said:
    This drews thing bugs me. His clutches dont seem to be branded which is a bit of a red card for me. Im running one and have to say its the ****iest puk clutch ive ever had.

    I was thinking of going with them for a new clutch. Would you advise against it based on your experience with you current clutch?

  6.  boon said:
    My stock V7 clutch shat the bed after not a long time with 231wkw. And I didn't exactly thrash it.

    Talk to pro-wholesale in Tauranga, get the Exedy HD with lightweight flywheel, should run you about a grand?

    But as loner said, it's not subtle, it a. stinks and b. is quite obvious that your RPM doesn't match your usual kph.

    Cheers bro. Feck me, $1000 for the HD exedy, and $640 for the flywheel :eek:. Thats like over $2k with installation..

  7. Unfortunately my plans to get my version 8 tuned may be halted by a weak clutch :( its engaging right up the top and I feel like it slips on high gears when boost comes on, but i'm not sure). Driven it up a hill etc on 3rd at low rpm and it grips solid, just feels that theres heaps of boost coming on but the car isn't really matching that in road speed on 3rd/4th/5th/6th, seems fine on 1st/2nd. This feeling is probably further exacerbated by a couple launches I've tried that ended up with the clutch way too hot and slipping into second pretty bad - Stunk real bad too, but started to bite again when it cooled down.

    Don't know if I should risk forking $1300 for a dyno tune and the clutch giving up on the day.

    The next dilemma is which clutch to get? I'm definitely keeping this car for ages and will expect about 230kw atw (hoping with my mods so far), and maybe 450wtq after dyno? Whats my best option for clutch + flywheel?

    Exedy HD, ACT etc. Read up a fair bit but dont have anything concrete to stand on in regards to durability, torque rating, and ability to handle some abuse. The last thing I want is to get it changed then need to replace it in 10k.

    Oh and who in Auckland would you recommend to get the job done? Been going to subtech for all my work so far.

    Any feedback or past experiences would be appreciated :)

  8. Hey guys,

    Been thinking about this for a while now, and have read up that this probably shouldn't be done. Nonetheless, wanted to know for sure from you guys and if there are any alternatives.

    I've got a 2003 WRX STI (V8), which I am pretty sure is twin scroll, and am pretty sure has EL headers (sounds like an evo rather than an old school suby - No rumble as such). Before i knew much about subys, one of the main reasons for buying this was for the good old suby rumble that we all love. Now that I've owned my v8 and researched, I know why its non existent (exhaust pulses etc.). Anyway, I am wondering if i can get the best of both worlds by switching headers.

    Will switching to UEL headers completely negate the positive benefits of twin scroll and possibly cause engine damage (or so I read - back pressure on one cylinder only etc.)?

    Was thinking of something like this: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/fits/2004-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-2-5/exhaust-headers-and-manifolds/tom-193082-tomei-expreme-unequal-length-exhaust-manifold

    Is semi-tuned another alternative? I have heard the name floating around but haven't got any facts about positives and negatives, or even what it does. I'm guessing its half way between EUL and EL?

    Any thoughts and experience on this would be appreciated.

  9.  Tony said:
    The Adrenalin R louvered baffle mufflers certainly do a good job. I recently fitted one of their centre resonators to my race car and the noise difference was definitely noticeable, my neighbour doesn't complain when I start my car up anymore lol!. No power loss either with the larger baffled resonator (we did a before & after on the dyno).

    Oh wow awesome! Great to hear from someone that has used their products! Thanks Tony :)

    I'll get my muffler changed to an Adrenalin R one.

  10.  Marky said:
    Edge: aesthetic only

    Sound vs brand: Yes adrenalin R is a good (albiet expensive) brand

    Does your exhaust have any resonators, and what brand is the muffler now? Some mufflers do next to nothing for sound reduction so anything might be an improvement

    The previous owner had it install, cant see any branding but when i rung the guys who did the job (off the receipt) They said it was a big bore exhaust.

  11.  boon said:
    They make good mufflers, I'm not sure what that summary has to do with rolled or straight edge mufflers though?

    I guess the thread is twofold lol. Wanting to know if rolled edge mufflers are better or worse (or if its purely aesthetic). And if changing my current muffler (big more apparently) to an Adrenalin R one will result in an overall reduction in exhaust volume and cabin resonance. Sorry wasn't very clear in the OP

  12.  boon said:
    In terms of sound it's going to make three fifths of ****-all difference, go with the one you think looks better.

    IMO Impreza = Straight edge, Legacy = rolled.

    Oh really? I was going by their write-up which seems to have quite a few levels of sound deadening.:

    1. "The stainless wool breaks up soundwaves and creates a barrier preventing the packing from breaking up and exiting the rear of the vehicle prolonging the life of each and every muffler.
    2. The ceramic matting absorbs noise and heat preventing the fibreglass turning back to glass.
    3. The needlemat fibreglass blanket acts as the final noise insulator which results in quieter, deeper notes singing from the rear of your vehicle."

    Current exhaust was installed by previous owner, i think its a big bore muffler? Full 3inch TBE. Just a bit too loud. Borderline WOF fail as well.

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