McDoof

Have you been there too?

Yea, like I said, I may not have made the best decisions along the way and one of those was picking a lower price based on a "deal" Still no excuse for a really poor job.

I have a fun story. If I could type in sarcasm then the first line would be typed in sarcasm font and bold. This post is informational post to anyone wanting paint work done. Please consider the post below before making any decisions. Before I begin I will admit that I have not made the best decisions along the way so I have let things get worse by continuing to put some trust in the business. The other thing I should mention is that the business changed owners about a week after I had my initial pain work done. The follow up work and subsequent mess was done under the new owners business, but my contract was with the original owner. They still have the same staff, trading name, equipment and location. Ding ding ROUND 1 At the beginning of October I went to Onshow Kustoms to have my bumper touched up. It had a few stone chips on it and I had seen them advertise on GrabOne. After chatting with the guy there I was convinced on the upsell to have my chipped bonnet and roof done at the same time. The roof had 3 very small "spider rust" spots where water had gotten into a chip. I figured I may as well sort it before it turned into real rust. Stupidly I agreed to bypass the GrabOne voucher structure and bought these services directly from Onshow Kustoms. A week later I got my car back. It was covered in thick white dust, inside and outside and on first glance it looked OK. The reality was not so great though. Paint run above the passenger door Bubbly paint on the A pillar Front Bumper ground back do hard that they had gone through the new and old paint and back to plastic Front bumper paint finish that had air bubbles in it The roof had a pretty nasty looking orange peel going on and you could clearly see where they spots had been ground out and patched. I don't have a decent pic of that unfortunately. ROUND 2 So I called them up and took the car back to them to fix these issues. This time it came back with the roof having been buffed to an acceptable finish. That was where the good ended. The leading edges of the bonnet, right and left quarter panels not had the bubbly finish going on. There was primer overspray on the edges of the headlights and black paint drips on the passenger side headlight The bumper had been sprayed so badly that I could have done better with a paint brush The paint on the A pillars was bad again Again the car had been polished so hard that paint was missing and it was scratched Dirty footprints that took ages to get out of the carpet Cutting compound in very possible nook and cranny and over pretty much everything Anyway. Needless to say I was not happy with the second attempt at fixing this job I should probably have invoked the consumer guarantees act at this point and just had it sorted somewhere else. But they actually seemed like nice people and I thought I would give them one last chance as they had assured me that the guy that did the rubbish job had been sacked and a better painter would do the job. I realise that I am stupid for ever thinking that this would work out OK. So the car went back a 3rd time. ROUND 3 What could have been an OK attempt to fix the issues was not to be. This time they sprayed the car either outside or in their workshop where they have all the buffing dust flying around. It was not done in a spray booth that's for sure. They decided to repaint, the roof, bonnet, bumper, RF and LF Guards, RR and LR guards and have now ruined 7 panels. It's a bit hard to photograph but you get the idea. The whole paint job is covered in these little dimples and raised bits where dust has gotten into the paint. If you look really hard you can even see a hair in the bonnet paint (not in these pcis) More over spray And for the kicker they have now managed to ruin both my headlights and front Subaru badge by getting them covered in clearcoat laced with bits of masking tape that does not come off These are the actual pictures I sent them. So I decided it was time to invoke the Consumer guarantees act and got some quotes to fix their mess up. They ranged from being told by one shop they would not touch the car because it was so bad. To some quoted between around $2k and around $5k at the top end. Guarantee of reasonable care and skill This generally means that any work done for you must be at least as good as the work of a competent person with average skills and experience in the type of work required. I can take my car to any panel shop in town and they will tell me and anyone else that the job is not up to scratch. So I have that bit covered Right to repair You can ask the service provider who did the job to fix it at no cost to you. If they refuse or take longer than a reasonable time to fix it, you can either: get someone else to fix it and claim the cost from the service provider Right to claim compensation for damage (consequential loss) If the work done for you as part of the service has caused damage to your property, you can claim compensation for that damage (this is called ‘consequential loss’). This is where they sent me a letter by email saying that the company has changed hands. It has been sold to one of the existing staff members. All assets no liabilities. So all the same staff and same name but they are now denying all liability. I really like the cheeky last paragraph. I figured seeing as the actual last bit of work was done after the date of sale that they are still liable under the consumer guarantees act. This does not seem to be the case. I will need to see what can be done to make a claim against the old owners company (who has gone to Hong Kong) I don't fancy my chances.

Air filter element. Check your coolant. It might need to be drained and replaced if it's too old. Check you belt tensions not sure if the EJ motor has an automatic or manual tensioner though. Jack up each wheel and check that there is no movement if your push top and bottom. If you are unsure of the history it's probably also worth doing a brake fluid replacement.

Took it for a good fang at Hampton downs after work yesterday. Was fun.... Until I split an inner CV boot and dumped grease all over my headers. LOTS of white smoke

I can confirm that BTSSM works with this cheap Chinese adapter http://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-lot-VAG409-1-USB-Interface-Cable-KKL-VAG-409-1-Diagnostic-Cable-With-FT232BL-Chip/32387292613.html

Pretty sure this is the exact kit. Borrowed off a mate, but will be on my shopping list now. http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/0117-Black-Label-Ford-Import-3-Tab-Power-Bleeder-_p_103.html http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-107-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2

Bled the brakes using a power bleeder. I will never do a manual bleed again. Best invention since....

Looks like D2ZU300A It may be similar to the already defined D2ZU200A that comes with ECUFlash

Unbolted the exhaust and adjusted the hangers to make the left and right mufflers hang at the same height. It was really annoying me that the left was 2cm lower than the right. Lifted the whole thing up a bit so now I have bit more ground clearance too. Win win Gave the K&N Panel filter a good clean and re-oil too

Pity about the auto though. NZ New cars get the 260km/h Speedo. I have one on my 3.0R too. Means I can actually see how fast I am going on the top straight at Hampton Downs :-)

LOL If you took some of the STI badges off it and lowered it just a little then it would actually be a nice car.

Depends how much you read into it. He's just saying it has STI bits on it. The title is misleading though.

There are some roms for the 2012 Nexus but they are Android 4.4 AFAIK. I'm also not 100% sure which video grabber you would need on the 2012, I think it's a different unit.

Brumby with STI running gear. That will be freak out a few people. :-)

Would it make it in under SIV? I don't actually know how many were built but I doubt it would be identified as a collectors item. It's not a coupe. To have a vehicle identified as a special interest vehicle, the NZ Transport Agency must deem it to have historic value or it must meet three of the following four requirements: • The vehicle (or its make, model and submodel) is identified as being a collector’s item in one of the following magazines or their respective websites – Australian classic car, Car and driver (US),Automobile (US),Motor (Australia), Motor trend (US), New Zealand autocar, New Zealand classic car, Road and track (US),Top gear (UK),Top gear NZ, Unique cars (Australia) or Wheels (Australia) • The vehicle’s make and model has been (or was) manufactured in annual volumes of 20,000 units or less • The vehicle is, and was manufactured as, a two-door coupe or a convertible • The vehicle is, and was manufactured as, a high-performance vehicle.

I doubt you would be able to register it. It will only have a 2 letter emission code. You can generally only register 2005 or later. Plus at the sort of mileage would it even be worthwhile as a parts car? If it only has 2 letters in front of the GDA then it will not comply.

Centre of the wheel to arch should be constant regardless of wheel size.

Send me the ECU read file and I can pull the ECU ID from it. Even if there is no def for it.

If you want something that is fast but still reliable, then yes.

Probably not with a turbo on it but there are some manual BP legacies with the gutless 2.0. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-969463154.htm

You must have New Zealand's best BL legacy muffler collection. I would love to spend an afternoon fitting each set and addressing the sounds :-)

I guess you could mount it higher so you could still see the clock. I just have the tablet set to daydream so it's always a big clock. The fuel data was never really accurate anyhow. The camera trigger I used is option 1 from here https://timur.mobi/timurs-kernel-n7-2013/auto-rearcam/ I had the relay in the garage already so that was lucky. Pity the BT audio on your anycar link is bad. Mine is better than the CD player. Phone calls are a bit soft but music is very good.

I'm running BTSSM with Tactrix, but there are cheaper options. http://www.btssm.com/?page=hardware

I'll see what I can do.