Kol12

I've heard that all of the information the computer tracks can be lost if the battery is disconnected or drained and has to start all over. Just wondering if this is also true for Subaru? There is a way to keep the circuit connected when you disconnect the battery but I've forgotten the name for it...

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Yeah I definitely have the clunk. By slack do you mean a strain? Skip offline on bumps - what is that? Maybe my tyre's need re-balancing, one of the most common for juddering...

Thanks. I will google this some more tonight. Can you provide any more information on how that works? Update is: Enough is enough. I phoned Robinson Instruments and spoke to Profel. He said to send the cluster in asap. He has seen this issue on the Subaru's before. I pulled the cluster out this afternoon and right after I pulled the plugs from it the flippin gauge needle moves up from the dead faulty empty reading! Wonder what that means? Anything further though is beyond my expertise and these guys sound like the experts. I hope this can be fixed once and for all. I've already thrown quite a bit of money at it with no outcome and I can't imagine trying to ever sell the car with a faulty fuel gauge... Thanks very much for putting me on to these guy's.

I get a lot of juddering on the expressway which is surprising since it is very smooth and flat. Would this be related to the diff or the trailing arms?

I got my parts today but I've got bigger problems like a faulty fuel gauge I'm still optimistic about doing the job though. I was just wondering about the part to check 30/87 are connected with the multimeter what you mean there? What exactly are you looking for there?

Is this karma or what? Ran out of gas today!! Got stuck in the middle of the road in about the exact same spot as the last time this happened! About a 100 meters from my street! This was after driving back from Hamilton today. I usually can gauge how much petrol I need but got taken by surprise! I can not go through this anymore, it is way to stressful and potentially very very dangerous! I hope these guys know what they're doing and can fix it. Fingers crossed.

Not sure if this is related to the gauge but occasionally all of the cluster lights start flickering haywire and even the speedo needles go all all haywire! This was pretty scary the first time I experienced it! Happens only once in a blue moon but could be an indication the cluster has bigger problems...

Thanks guys. I will check them out.

Cheers man. I'll let you know how it goes!

Excellent! The relay base that's what was missing. I reckon I can give this a go. The vampire clip, I'm not familiar with it but... googling it is commonly called a T splice or wire tap connector, I'm no electrician either... What's the reason for the chocolate block connectors? Couldn't plain wire connectors be used? The tricky part I remember is that there is not a lot of room to work behind the satnav and stereo as some the cables are short and it only comes out so far...

Cool man, can't wait!

My fuel gauge has been faulty for as long as I've had it and it is absolutely highly frustrating not having a working fuel gauge... I've had the sending units in the tank replaced to no avail. I took it to Hamish at H&N Auto who has seen this a few times on the B4 and in most cases it has been a dry solder joint on the gauge. He attempted the fix on mine but it is the first time that he has not seen it fix the issue. I recall the next step might of been replacing the gauge but I haven't spoke to him about it again for some time. Does anyone know whether the gauge itself can be replaced from another cluster or is it physically part of the cluster? I had been told a couple of times that another option is to replace the whole cluster, but that the mileage would also have to be reprogrammed. I recall there was someone in Hamilton that could reprogram but I've forgotten their name. Anyone got any further suggestions around this?

Calling out to @thewabbit1 I know this thread is about a year old now but I never got around to fixing the satnav unit to the show the air con settings etc like you have and I am keen to have another crack at it! I'm not hugely electrically skilled so was wondering if you would mind drawing up basic diagram in how to wire that relay up to the satnav? Is it a relay like this one from jaycar that I'll need or perhaps a lower current one? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/automotive-relay-150a-spdt/p/SY4073 Is the relay supposed to have a plug with it to join your wires to or do you put the wires on spade terminals and connect them that way? And how exactly do you tee the wire in the switched 12v wire in the stereo wiring harness? Cheers mate!

So will a deteriorating trail arm always usually be just the bushings? @boostin You've never done trailing arm bushes in all your time at Winger? Maybe the mechanic misunderstood something over the phone leading to the 7 hour labor estimate. Probably won't get a more accurate estimate until I physically take it in. They also asked if the car makes a clunk when changing gears and sure enough yes it does. This is apparently symptomatic of worn diff bushings... I always wondered what was causing the clunk and now I know. I'm not really familiar with the purpose of the diff bushings though, so what exactly do they do?

What's the lengthy process? The trailing arms, diff bushes or just the whole lot? The mech said about a 7 hour job Edit: TBH I don't really know what's involved but if 1k is reasonable I guess that's that...

Can you further elaborate? Does the whole diff have to come out or something? What do you mean by avoid the hassle of pressing bushes out and back in? The diff bushes look like they are easy to access so I must be missing something... So is $900-1000 actually what you would expect for this job? On a side note and it's probably too little to start a new thread, my idle is very low and feels like it is about to cut out. Does the idle simply need adjusting or can this also be something else?

Ah, actually next warrant is in Jan 18... Kinda avoided it for a bit but it's now looming closer. Yes this was a vtnz WOF... I've been quoted $900-1000 but I'm wondering whether the understanding of the job was correct (over the phone) Is replacing trailing arms and diff bushes that bigger job?

The WOF tech picked up on one or two things that will likely need attention before next warrant. His exact notes are: Rear Suspension Trailing Arm Deteriorating All - as marked Rear Suspension Check Manufacturers Spec Borderline - Diff Mounting bushes, oil leak pinion seal rear I take this means the rear suspension trailing arms need replacing as well as rear diff mounting bushes and fixing the oil leak. Is this a big job? Any idea what he means about the rear suspension being borderline?

Wow, a lot of people experiencing the same thing. It must be something though, maybe my mechanic will know.

Its been quite bad a couple of times, it really hesitates just before hitting primary boost then really boosts when it does, almost abnormally. Then as you slow down to turn around a corner it repeats itself. This is all of course until the engine warms up though. I usually tame my primary boost when driving from cold but it's hard to not hit boost in the B4's with the primary coming on so low.. I'll ask my mechanic about it I suppose but if it's heaps to repair I'll leave it for now.

on throttle..

Yes, it only surges for the first few minutes driving from being started cold..

Hi, my 99 B4 has started surging but only when the engine is cold, it seems to behave normally when warmed up. Any ideas?

Ok right, better check the tape hasn't been blown off then. Is there some sort of plug I can get to block hose ten off?