Kol12

Hmm well it seem's like it's working in the opposite direction then. I thought I had an issue with the secondary not coming on as early as I thought it should be and sometimes feeling like it doesn't boost at all. As far as I know my primary has always worked pretty normal. All I've done is pulled hose 10 off, taped it and taped off the tee it came off.

I tried the degreaser and hose method the other day, a bit better than what it was but not super shiny or anything. The guy I brought the car off has driven through a whole lot of mud at some stage and it's like concrete in some places but everywhere else it's like a splashed mud spot effect. All the pipes would need to cleaned individually to remove the spots I'd say. If I get a chance I might get it steam cleaned at a valet and see if that makes a difference.

Just wanted to say I've blocked hose ten off and I'm driving the car like this. First impression is the primary boost has moved up to like 3 - 3.5k and when it hits it very quickly goes up to 4-5k but there's no second turbo boost happening here that I'm aware of.

Is using tape ok to try this out temporarily?

Trying to accomplish something like this..

I think it's this actually. I think I feel confident about this now.

Hi, Just wondering what the best/safe way is to clean/degrease my engine bay? Can I spray degreaser over things and just hose away?

Hi, Just wondering what the safe way to clean/degrease my engine bay would be? Is it safe to spray degreaser over things and hose away?

Ok, right.

Off topic, but can I spray degreaser over everything in my engine bay then hose it off?

So pretty much remove hose 10 from both ends?

What's the best way to get my engine bay nice and shiny? Spray degreaser on everything without hitting electrics?

Here is my simple understanding of the first tee part but I'm really not getting the part with the second tee join under the BOV outlet.

Ok, where do I get some hose from to run straight through? "the other junction" I'm guessing is the one I have labeled "another tee" right? There seems to be multiple pipes on this tee so I'm not exactly sure of the "same procedure". Is it basically just removing hose 10 from this end of the tee as well and blocking it off? How do you undo the clamp on the BOV outlet?

By lose do you mean disconnect it at both ends or just from the blue T piece? If just from the T piece do you block "hose 10" off somehow? Do I need to buy some pipe from somewhere to run it straight through? I'm not getting the bit about the other smaller hose, you mean the one with an actual 10 printed on it right? 15 years old! What? Are you actually meant to replace these periodically or something? Car's only done 120K. What looks so rough about it, the bent pins? What causes this?

Btw, does my intercooler look a bit beaten? Have the fins warped from heat or something?

I've found what I think is hose 10 but I'm still not really sure what to do with it. The hose I'm looking at has the number 10 printed on it and I followed it out towards the battery. I think it is the hose for the boost solenoid out in the fender by the battery is that right?

Cool, so a lot you guys have done it with no problems? Do you leave it permanently? Some pics with arrows pointing to which hoses to play with could be helpful..

Am I missing out on something not doing this?

Hey everyone, just to let you know Hamish at H&N has fixed my fuel gauge. He really made it look like it was no big deal at all, he even done it for $70! Basically there's solder points behind the gauge on the pcb board that look totally normal but Hamish showed me with a screw driver that when he pressed on the solders they caved in and this is what is called a "dry joint" (lack of connection) New solders and it's like new. Very happy.

Is the basic one like the older style green lit ones? I imagine changing the cluster with an exact same one would be pretty straight forward. Here's hoping I can just get my one fixed!

I haven't done it before so don't know what is involved. Everyone has said that it has to replaced with the right one by matching the numbers on the back. The guy at Sub a roo auto parts reckons there's a silver box on the back of it that controls the illumination but also the fuel gauge and said it's possible you could just swap this part but doesn't know for sure. Hamish at H&N sounds confident he knows how to fix it so I'll wait to see how this goes.

I've got the backlit cluster that lights everything up white with red needles.

Yeah, it's possible the gauge part can be replaced separately or fixed as Hamish at H&N say's is possible.