Gleshlich

I'd be keen on getting into the suby community it here. Don't really know of any other car mates in chch

Grrrr. Couldn't get anything done today and probably not for a few more days. Getting fibre installed and the fellas have dug up the drive

Sweet. Going to pickup a AFM and a diverter valve tomorrow morning. Not sure where I'll be able to borrow a compressor though. Would the one at the petty station do the trick?

Put the solenoid back in and it ticks louder and better than before. Still at Watergate though

Wanting to rule out that my AFM is stuffed. Don't really want to buy a whole new AFM just to find out that mine was working fine. Thanks Glesh

Sweet as. Just took the solenoid out and degreased the pipes and gave the whole thing a clean. Left it disconnected and letting it dry for the night. Left the battery terminal off and had to manually lock all the doors haha. Hopefully that does the trick. Would I be wise to change the AFM even though the code hasn't popped up again? I did about 250kms of driving after the last reset

Sweet will have to get my hands on some carb cleaner. Only have degreaser available. If this doesn't work what's next?

Turns out I wasn't using the test mode. Boost solenoid ticks sorta like an idle. Nothing from the other side. All the wiring looks correct as to what you described

The hoses in the BBOD were all connected up properly. Cleared ECU, no more AFM code but still running wastegate. Rechecked for codes and theres nothing there. Im guessing boost solenoid? When in diagnostic mode I don't hear it clicking away. Reckon its buggered? Checked the pistons and it all looks good. Couldnt really get a picture in there through the plug hole.

Sweet will have a look in the morning. Should I be removing the bbod and leave just the bcs or just leave it as is and Check the plumbing.

I found the chime black plugs directly under the steering wheel. It was sort of right in my face. The diagnostic plugs were right up against the centre console side so I didn't see them at first. What should I be looking for on the piston crowns? I'll have a look at the boost solenoid 'wiring' tomorrow when I get light. What colour AFM should I get? Same colour?

Had a look in the dark so not 100% confirmed here. No hoses seem to be blocked /clamped lines apart from the intake pipe. I've taken some photos of the vacuum lines off the turbo. They lead off to something that doesn't look very boost solenoid. Of the three lines going into in, one if from intake pipe, one is intake manifold and one is from the t piece on the wastegate/turbo. The top right line goes to the intake. Top left goes to turbo and the bottom goes to intake manifold. Might need an expert to come help me out The clubsub photo uploader doesnt'really like me so I've had to upload to imgur. Where should I be looking to confirm what the shortblock is from? Theres a number on the top that says 504759 http://imgur.com/a/mO5dj

Could the Twin turbo intake pipe be screwing with the MAF signal? I'll be replacing the pipe with a singe turbo on regardless, just wondering if I should get a AFM while I'm at it

Had a look at the car today and wasn't able to come up with any conclusions. Checked and there was a restrictor pill in the hose between the wastegate and turbo Checked the ECU and can confirm it is a J2. The passenger side head is a 007 but I wasn't able to see the one on the drivers side. I did not that the intake pipe is the one from a twin turbo which the previous owner blocked off with a bolt and a hose clamp... ghetto ik. Went to have a look at the engine code but couldnt find it. I did see the number for it but I don't think that means anything apart from not matching what it's supposed to be from stock. I went to go read the codes manually but after opening the panel, I saw a lot of wires with electrical tape and no green connectors. Connected what I thought was the ECU read connectors which only started the door chime noise for when you leave your keys in the ignition (guess that annoyed the last owner). I've posted photos of the current wiring mess. Not really sure where to go from here. Also saw a little red button next to the throttle pedal but wasn't hooked up to anything on the back. Maybe previously used as a killswitch or two stage boost controller? I'm well and truly stumped http://imgur.com/a/0T95u Ignore the first picture. UPDATE: I didn't look in the right place. Went and had another look and found the plugs. Got spat a code 23 (MAF?) and a Code 12. My starter has been cranking slowly but I'm not sure what the code 12 means. Is it new starter time too?

It's a BH5A5CD according to the plate. Intake manifold is a crimson red colour. Not sure about the heads. Will have to check when I'm back home on Monday.

Theres no CEL. Should I go get it scanned first, find out what the shortblock and ECU are and join the dots from there?

Hey all I'm new to this forum but have been reading posts for a long time. I own a BH5 Legacy GTB with a V5 STi swap. It's all pretty much stock apart from a pod filter and blitz BOV that the last owner installed. I've whacked a set of TE37s on and wrapped them in TZ700 tyres. https://www.instagram.com/p/BCWcVEBkhCs/?taken-by=j_young_on_reading

Hey all, new to the forum. Been lurking for ages but first time making a post. I own a Legacy GTB Gen 3 with a V5 STi swap. (Running a VF23 turbo and the ECU from the V5). Ever since I've owned the car it's only boosted 0.7 bar on max boost. Stock V5s are supposed to boost closer to 1.1? I noticed it run really rich when I was transporting some furniture with the hatch tied down and open a tad. Smelt worse than a petrol station What should my troubleshooting steps be? Current "mods" are pod filter and blitz dd blow off valve (both of which were there when I bought the car).