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Posts posted by 666SubSpeed
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awesome good to here man
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cheers Telemekas thats what I was after. any more info or pics anyone else has would be much appreciated.
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I want to know what vacuum lines and such that need to be modified / removed to make it run both turbos at once instead of holding back boost in the second turbo. I know a sensor is removed and a resistor is put in its place to fix the CEL but thats about all i have found out. I'm sure members have used them before I am after as much info as I can to help out a mate who is fitting a set.
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just wanting to know what hoses need to be blocked off or re plumbed and what else is needed to install some Syms extractors onto a factory setup in a be/bh.
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So planning on spending Saturday arvo/evening fitting one of my other ones, we will see how it goes..
eene meene mini mo.
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My poor baby is making a really bad clicking noise in first and reverse (gets faster with wheel speed and louder when under load) but all other gears are quiet.
I have replaced both front drive axles with complete units from repco because I thought it was the c.v's but now with new c.v's it is still making the noise.
I have checked the fluid and its all good and had a good look around and cant see anything out of place so I'm stumped.
I'm thinking it could be the syncros or center diff but I'm not sure. I have a couple of boxes laying around that I know have syncro problems and whine in reverse but they dont click so thought I might be able to make 1 good box from the ones I have by mix and matching different bits.
Any ides on what it could be before I start ripping gearboxes to pieces??
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Go for new plugs anyway don't bother with the HKS ones some good Bosch platinums are half the price.
My guess would be the fuel pump or ecu on its way out. let us know how you get on once you have replaced a few more bits.
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are you running an aftermarket BoV? and is it venting back into the inlet track or atmo? if you vent it out (makes it go Pissshhhh on gear changes) it will cause that exact problem. or it could just be not closing properly at idle.
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Also check the temp sensor as it could be the auto choke playing up if it only happens after starting up. could be giving the ecu a bung reading causing the ecu to run like its warmed up when it is still cold.
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Looks like he went to Ripco and spent up large. Just look at that steering wheel, combined with the wing, seats and the old subs and amp it is just soooo wrong. but for 3 grand it could be fixed.
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you mean a massive rock on a holden is cooler. well I think its cooler ;D
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anyway back to the issue at hand....
most GTB legacys came with 17" wheels
Go to your local dealership and get a print out of all the factory wheel sizes for your year and take it to court.
If 17" rims are even an option on you model then you can have 17" wheels on your car if cert plate says "as factory fitted" regardless of dickhead know it all cops. fight him for it because he is counting on you not fighting. Assholes like that give the good cops a bad name.
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Just wondering if anyone knows of a good place to get steering tie rods
Some call them the tie rods but others call the piece on the end the tie rod so not too sure of the exact name but it starts at the ball and socket piece that is hidden under the steering rack boot and goes to the hubs.
I have found a place that does whole p s racks for quite cheep but Idk if they come with the rods attached and I don't need the whole rack mines fine.
I don't mind if they are out of town as long as I can get postage to Hamilton.
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most 2 channel amps have a switch to make it mono so you can bridge them.
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I have another head unit from Eonon that also does SD USB DVD mp4 ect ect but without the screen so its only single din. the unit works well and has 3 RCA outputs but very little in the way of graphic equalizer (only bass/treble).
One issue I have with it and other no name units is they can take a long time to load your media and start playing, a real pain in the ass when your head-unit turns on then off and on again every time you start the engine.
my head-unit is also limited to 999 songs on any single DVD and only 2Gb SD and USB sticks so whats the point I can fit that much mp3s on a CD.??
Also on some you cant have your music in separate folders (no id tag)so it takes ages to find a particular song having to either know what song number it is or pressing next button 275 times and waiting for it to load between every song grrrr.
I haven't gotten a screen yet so I can only guess at how long it would take to load a movie.
I spent $250 odd on it brand new from trade me and even though it does everything it says on the box its a bit frustrating when it takes its time to do it.
I think now I will just send my good pioneer head-unit in to get fixed because even without DVD and USB it was a far superior unit even with only mp3/WMA playback. It has a good eq, time alignment and plenty of other goodies and sounded awesome. Im not sure whats wrong with it as every thing works as it should just no sound from any outputs.
At the end of the day I truly believe you get what you pay for.
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so are you saying put more speakers in front rather than Rear ? wouldn't amping all speakers from same amp cause no latency ? never herd this latency effect with any my other cars ?
Its not latency as such Its the difference in time it takes for the sound wave to reach your ear from each speaker. say the rear left speaker is 750 cm away and right front is only 230 cm away the sound wave reaches your ears at different times. Its only nanoseconds but trust me when I say using a head unit with " Time alignment " like my nice pioneer you can certainly tell the difference. you can even shift each speaker around the car by changing the time alignment settings while you sit there.(really odd feeling) but don't worry about that unless you paying big bucks on head unit or sound processor.
use good quality gear all round
mount 6.5" components in the doors with high mounted tweeters and 6.5 " splits in the back with sub/s in the boot
use the fader control to bring the sound stage forward a bit and use the hi-pass low-pass filters to stop distortion and you will have a better sounding system than alot of peeps out there
WRXONP
Dynamat is that stuff you stick on the door or whatever and yes you cover the whole door only making small holes for the looms and wires and speaker itself. you use it to stop road noise coming in, help seal the door and make it into a better enclosure because air leaks are bad when making good sounding enclosures. Ports and such are specifically tuned by length and radius to match the size of the speaker and enclosure and even then the rest of the box is sealed against leaks.
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Back to the original question.....Do not mount your 6x9s in the doors
Its got less to do with what speaker you use and more to do with its intended usage and the enclosure you use.
Doors do not have enough space to run a 6x9...period
If they fit awesome.... they will sound like crap
6x9s are designed to be mounted in your rear parcel tray and use your boot as an enclosure.
Considered by many as a poor mans sub I have found them to be a good balance between the 12" subs and 6.5" fronts
I found there was a hole in the music between what the 6.5's could give without distortion
and what the 12" subs L/P crossover points were set at for the same reason.
so you could build your sub box with 6x9s in as well (awesome)
or mount 6.5" in the factory holes and spend the difference on some dynamat for the doors (also awesome)
Don't want to sound like Im telling you what to do its that I have seen alot of money wasted by people just because they didn't know.
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that too fits but not 100% the bottom seat is a little too long but u still can manage to close the door. LNEMUP done this mod to his BC5
ive fitted a GDB into my coupe
I stand corrected.
Oh well we learn something new everyday and that's at least 1 for today. lol
I just assumed the coupe would be heaps shorter From b pillar back.
Isn't that 1 of the differences between sedans and coupes?
or is it more like a sedan with the rear doors deleted ?
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read again xecuta he said rear seats.
the front seats will fit 100%
I dont think the rears will fit as the coupe would be different to even other wrx let alone a B.C.
Im not sure so if someone would correct me if Im wrong.
worth a go though.
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Nice man
you got the right set of wheels too. lol ;D
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I think the vin number starts with a j if its JDM spec.
Im sure I read this when trying to find out if I was allowed to run E10 and E85 fuel.
Apparently you can if JDM but not if NZDM.
Also if you find the coin or note from Japan under the carpet or behind the dash or wherever leave it in there its for good luck.
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I wouldn't bother pissing around trying to separate the c/v from the drive shaft if it is really really stuck.
(have you removed the cir-clip inside the c/v?)
Just replace the whole drive shaft inner and outer c/vs as they are cheap enough from a wreckers, just re-grease and inspect before you reassemble and fit them.
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Even standing at the top of the hill with a good zoom on your camera at those speeds he would cover too much distance for any normal person to catch it all on film.
If there was cameras everywhere like the races we see on sundays we would get a good look.
Maby it should be done at the same time as the moterbike races they have every year as the whole island basically gets closed down for it then he could have a couple of goes at it and some awesome coverage.
And I think when he said its his second attempt he is including the "shake down" run used to collect data and help set up the car for the 100% run.
Any one find the full vid of this as the minute or so that I have seen only makes me want to see more.
subaru+closed roads+pro rally driver = the most fun anyone can ever have anywhere.
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I think it could be two wires crossing over in that loom somewhere as I think the 2 looms (windows and power seat) come together somewhere under the carpet.
have you pulled up the carpet ? that would give you a heap better access and there could be blatant as scorch marks or something hiding under there.
See how many plugs are on the loom from control to seat and window control and see if you can get to all of them.
If you can go to pick a part / wreckers and replace the whole loom with another as shorts and x overs are a bastard to find without the expensive equipment and know how to use them accurately.
Best of luck man
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help: 1 indicator ticking faster then the other??
in Electrical
Posted
The indicator ticking fast is designed to make you think something is wrong and its not just everyone cutting you off and giving you the fingers. ;D
I think you will find with all modern Japanese cars if one bulb blows that side will tick twice as fast because the relay has one less bulb to power.