666SubSpeed

Bushes are buggered. Common issue on older cars but you can't get the bushes alone. Facelift and prefacelift wiper racks are different so make sure you get the right one for your model.

I have seen 2 different BC/BF legacys with GD model dash and door cards fitted so it can be done its just the wiring that would be a pain. I do know at least one of the cars I have seen with this conversion was running full V7 engine,drive train and wiring loom so that would make it easier to make the dash cluster work.

Every BE/BH I have driven has a really light feel to the steering and I have driven a few now. I dont like it at all and have found a couple pull back on the wheel against you intermittently if you keep it turned for long enough ie going all the way round a round-a-bout.

Totally compatible. Part number differences can also change for stupid reasons like, different color bulbs and LED\'s in something like heater control panels. Plug it in and it should work like a charm.

Back to back testing has shown the best filter you can use is a new factory paper one. K&N are good but the oil has shown to kill AFM\'s really quick if any oil gets on the hot wire inside. same sort of thing with pod filters. We dont warranty any AFM\'s or engines we sell at work if using a pod filter/oiled panel fileter so that shows how easy they can cause issues.

Braxton have quite a few different lights but they are quite expensive. When dealing with brands like Depo and the such make sure they are not for left hand drive cars as you will fail WOF as the beam is set to go the other way.

There are also some plastic welders out there that can polish them up for you too. you do have to be careful as the plastic lenses can melt if you take to them with a polishing/buffing wheel.

Wow......Just...wow....why the fu....wow. Thats some serious kit right there peeps. it always amazes me the language used in ads on tard me when people are selling their crap and want too much for it. I will give the guy $50 just to watch it burn. I think we could all put in a bit and buy it, then have a bomfire party around it. Who\'s with me?

No, I dont think it is. Has Blitzen spoiler, grill and mags but standard front and rear bumpers. unless he has crashed it and has seen what the genuine bumpers cost to replace.

Yeah you can, and its quite quick and easy to do. 1. Separate the hub from the lower control arm at the ball stud. 2. Pull pin from C.V at gearbox end. 3. Get a friend to pull the hub outwards while you pull the inner C.V from the box. 4. repeat on other side of car. You don\'t have to touch any of the bolts that adjust anything and the lower control arm ball stud will only sit in just the right spot so no need for an alignment. I use a short flat head screw driver to force open the split behind the ball stud on the hub, then it will just slide out. You will have to remove the pinch bolt completely to get it to release properly and it is normally easier to push the arm down than try and lift the hub out. Once you have the hub free you should have enough movement to get the inner C.V disconnected from the box. Remember you will have to pull them out of the way when the gearbox goes back in.

Call us up at sub-a-roo parts. we have a couple of brand new genuine orange AFM\'s for around $320

All I can say is I\'m running on potenza RE002\'s and they are awesome.

752 = 4 bolt housing 754 = 8 bolt housing There is info out there tell us exactly what each number/letter refers to and the first bit is all to do with the actual casing. all the other numbers are to do with ratio and sensor type and when it was designed.

Awesome I will give that a go now other than that I have everything else working mint.

I have taken my control box out and had a look at the circuit board and it seems slightly different and this is the only part I have left to do for my alarm to be fully working. Is it possible to tell me how you found what contacts to solder to or maybe I can post a pic of mine so you can see whats different so I can finish this mission off as this is driving me up the wall and so far this is the most informative thread I have found on the net anywhere. Any help would be awesome.

Officially most of what we get here is JDM (Japanese domestic market) its only recently that more people know the word it gets thrown around a lot. Most of the Subarus that come here are used cars imported from japan and so are all "JDM" There are a few out there imported from Aus/USA privately, but mostly USA ones come over for the left hand drive side of it (makes a better rally car) oh and the odd "Singapore spec C STI" the only other ones we got here were sold as NZ new and have a few little bits and pieces different. ie orange in the taillight of the GC/GF where the JDM ones are clear and orange front indicators on the BC/BF legacys. I know that finding parts for NZ new models is harder than JDM models as they don\'t have the same number of them in the country and they don\'t have the same parts support from japan for new bit and pieces. This goes for most of the jap cars we have here as we are in a great place that allows us to buy up all the used cars we want with no local market to worry about so the Japanese car makers just cater to our little extra needs and weird safety regulations.

Is this the same pins to solder into for the BC/BF ?

I think its a VS1600 has dual immobilizer, remote central locking and a second channel to fit something like a boot release or something. From what I can see the installation manual for the 1600 and the 2600 is the same so if you could give me a link to what you have scanned I think I am missing a couple of pages that I can find so far online.

I have been meaning to get one fitted for a while but never had the cash for a good one Then I get given this one with everything I need for free (woohoo work deal ;D)........ accept the instructions Now I have an alarm half fitted to the car and wires still needing to be spliced in but I\'m not sure where i need to wire them in or if I need anything extra. I\'m better with the bolts and screws but not so good with the electrical side. I have basic know how when it come to the simple sh!t but cant seem to figure out these wires for the door locks and the door inputs and I don\'t want to fry anything. I have Googled it and have a diagram with what each wire is for on the alarm but no list of what needs to be done as far as fitting the immobilizer and setting the shock sensor etc. I literally got given the parts in a plastic bag, but no box, no instructions, nothing and I cant work out the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual and what I need to find to fit this thing. But I do have a few other things I need to do that I can use to distract myself from it for the moment. Lower front control arm bushings, so just gonna chuck in a set of alloy ones with new bushes and the exhaust manifold gasket is shagged so I will do both of them while I\'m at it. I have Thursday off so hoping to get most of it sorted then but this alarm thing, I dunno ??? Any help would be much appreciated ;D

So I decided I should finally install the alarm I have had for a while into the car where it can actually do some good. My problem is I have no instruction manual and can only find basic wiring diagrams online and not being the best with electronics I cant even work out what I need from the Haynes manual I have ( best thing I ever bought for the car) Its a uniden alarm with remote central locking etc but I can seem to work out what a few of the wires need to be connected to. I have a door(-)input and door(+)input and I know one of these needs something to say the doors are open/closed but which one do I use and what wire do I take the signal from? The other ones I am having issues with is the remote door lock harness. It has 3 wires 1 for positive and 2 negatives, one for negative pulse for unlock and one for negative pulse for lock. I think the positive wire will work to lock/unlock depending on what other of the 2 is hooked up. Im getting really frustrated with poking around the wiring harness with a test light (bulb on a couple of wires)and I think I have all ready fried the drivers lock actuator as it now stays in the locked position and it wont move back down. Grrrr more parts I need. What I need is someone out there thats fitted there own alarm and know what wires I need to tap into or maybe we have someone on here that works with the effing things and can help me out before I rip the whole thing out and KILL IT WITH FIRE. Any help would be much appreciated and a gold star to anyone that can tell me where I need to join the remaining wires so I can make it work and make my baby a bit more secure.

Dacerx did you see if the seat rails would change over for BF to bring the hight down or are they not the same? Im thinking I might have to get some BH leathers as I can find a black leather drivers seat to match the rest of my new interior.

pretty sure they are 6.5 inch in the front and rear.

I would say yours has been kept outside for long periods of time and has faded rather than being an actual different colour. Paint code is paint code and unless mixed wrong it will be the same colour as your car was new, not after 10 odd years of weathering.

you wont damage your A.C system running like that even with A.C on if the condenser is all ready split. You might need to move the radiator to get it out but shouldn\'t be too much hassle. there are 2 bolts that hold on the pipes to the condenser and another couple to hold it to the radiator support. I would say its not leaking because it has all ready split and let the charge out (on impact) but just be careful when cracking the first bolt and hose because if there is still charge in there it will leak out and you don\'t want to breath that crap in. Also the place who recharges the system should pressure test it first before re gassing and might charge you a couple of bucks for the little rubber O rings if they need replacing.

Take a good look at the seats and linings before purchase as they are usually cream suede and they will be a bastard to clean and all most imposable to get any thing replaced we have one at work and I think it looks ugly but other than the trim and a couple of flash options they are pretty much a Lancaster /Grand wagon.