666SubSpeed
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Posts posted by 666SubSpeed
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My next stop would be checking the wires that run through from the door to sill and check for loose connections or exposed wire and check the plugs and pins inside them.
Start with the passenger side where it started. The window control unit should switch off ( you should hear it click) after about 1 minute after turning the car off so I think something is shorting out enough to cause it to stay going but not blow a fuse.
Try this
after turning the car on and off can you hear the control unit humming?
does it make a different noise when you push 1 of the window buttons?
If you can hear it I would pull window window switches one at a time until it changes or stops then you can trace the wire and hopefully find the fault.
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I think if u have an alarm fitted with it as a function sweet azz.
if you wanna build one yourself or use a stand alone unit then you could be in for hassles.
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There are alarms with this same function and reading the specs they have a neutral engaged safety so the car cannot start in gear and I would say that would be a requirement for legality's and wof in a manual autos have that funcion built in.....but then again what they dont know wont hurt .
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my moneys on boost gauge
Wrap your new hose to the old hose with tape then pull slowly from pedal box area
should be easy to spot or get someone to move it in and out while you look . (sounds dodgy azz)lol
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I got a precut set for my beast from TM for like $90 it came with a spare rear window piece to practice with too and instructions and the special tool to apply. (special tool ftw) It was well worth it and only took me couple of hours to do them all including the rear window. Do the rear in sections starting at the top and cut along the demister line and do another section and cut along the same line. I did mine in 3 pieces and because the demister line is there you cant see the joins at all. or pay a pro and let them worry about it then you know it will be mint. I just want to do as much as I can on my car cause once you learn how its easier next time.
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well after reading this im a little worried.
I put $50 of the E10 from gull (98ron+10%ethanol) into my beast to try out going to Taupo last weekend.
O.M.G.... I noticed the difference almost immediately, boost climbed faster and actually went past my normal boost cut off point (1bar) it also held boost better as it usually tapers off as the revs climb. she even had more nuts off boost.
I then put in $50 of the crap fuel I normally use for the trip back and what a let down now I think Im gonna replace the rubber sections of fuel hose and replace the injector o rings and anything else that needs doing so I can run E10 all the time. then Im ready for when E85 comes then it just a retune to make the most out of it.
hehehe I love more power.
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The tire Series ie -----/45/------ is a percentage of the width which denotes the sidewall height SO using your examples
255/45/18 has a side wall height of about 115 mm where as the 195/45/18 has a sidewall height of about 88 mm
Ahhhh thats what was confusing me I assumed all 45 profile tires were the same regardless of width.
I didn't know profile was measured as a percentage of the tires width.
Well you learn something new everyday..
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Are you sure your not talking about Tyre profile (height) not tire width (inside to outside )???
As I cant see how a 255/45/18 would travel any further than a 195/45/18
the problem would come when u mix say 225/35/18 up front and 225/45/18 out the back
The overall radius of the wheel is what would change and cause issues not the tire width.
Not counting rolling resistance.
As I have been told the diffs in Subaru are not the best and that I should not even change 2 tires, that you should all ways do all 4 at once. but this could be the tire shops just wanting more money.
I dont know its just my 2c worth
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Leave the belts on, car in gear (any gear)and handbrake on then use a strong arm bar on a socket and instead of turning it like you normally would hit the arm bar with the back of a hammer over and over and over.
the pulley will turn but the shock of you hitting the bar will slowly work the bolt out. just remember to let the pulley stop before hitting it again or it will take longer. I have used this method a couple of times and had it work where a rattle gun failed.
kiwi ingenuity F.T.W
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If he couldn't find the vin number then hes a retard.....
don't you love it when special needs idiots get into positions of power and ruin what should be a simple situation.
what was the pink sticker for in the first place?
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The temp sender goes into the hole left by the factory sender under the alternator its a bit tight but mine fit just have the terminals as far from the alternator pivot end as you can then carefully put the alternator back in. I have to undo all the bolts, get it into place then slide the long bolt back in as it wont just pivot into place, there is heaps of clearance once the belts are all tight again so sweet az
!!!! warning !!!!!
DO NOT use the plastic hose to remote mount the pressure sender as shown in the instructions. When the hose pulls out of the block you will completely empty your engine of oil through the hole in the block straight up into your hood at close to 100 psi. This will take approximately 2.7 seconds and grenade your engine almost as fast
I was lucky
I realized what was happening quickly and pulled off the road and shut off the car. by the time I had opened the car door and stepped out I was standing in the all ready formed puddle of hot oil. I turned around and saw the trail of oil leading up the road .....O M G what a mess.to top it off the car stunk of burning oil for months as it slowly burned off everything I couldn't get to with the water blaster.
Lesson learned and now passed on.... I feel better now
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I dont have a rattle gun but leave the belts on and tight, fit your socket and a breaker bar then whack the bar with a hammer over and over and over. might take a while and the alternator will turn but its the shock of the metal on metal contact that moves the bolt not the force behind it.
Its worked a charm for me a couple of times now
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You might find the stud you bolt the wire to is surrounded by a black plastic bit. In this is a 90 degree piece of copper/lead that does nothing but move the mounting bolt to come over the top of the alternator. I removed this and mounted the wire on the back side of the alternator when I painted and rebuilt it and moved the whole loom down behind the alternator, under the air-con hoses and hid it all. Now I don't have a big black rubber thing and loom running across the front of my engine......pretty...er ;D
Also the 2 wires that run to that rubber boot only need insulation from earth not from each other so that's easy.
The plug with the other wires (3 or 4)is a little harder I just used a spare loom, cut off the old plug and soldered it on also made it a bit longer to reach better when it was hidden, it's long enough as is I just wanted a bit more slack and I was there so might as well aye.
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I prefer ABS most of the time but having an old bf its not too good at keeping up when on gravel and grass so I simply pull the ABS fuse when playing silly buggers. sorted no more pesky ABS brakes work mint and all you do is plug the fuse back in and restart the car. bingo ABS is back.
In short have the best of both worlds and love it. ;D
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you say 4g going to passenger side then 10g from there to the amp under the seat?
Do you have a join there?
you should only have one join in the power cable (or any cable/wire for that matter) and that is the fuse and that should be mounted as close as physically possible to the + terminal on the battery.
my bet is the join in your cable is causing interference with the signal either to or from the amp.
unfortunately only 1 way around this. go to jay-car/dick smith and get 5mtrs of 8g cable and run 1 complete length from your fuse down the full length of the car on the opposite side of the car to your RCAs and speaker wire.
I have 2 8g wires running the full length (left side) of my car and 4g from the + terminal to a twin 60amp circuit breaker.
On the right side i have 5 RCAs and 2 16g speaker wires for the front speakers my 6x9s and twin 12" subs are in the back so the wires don't have far to go.
I have no whine , click or anything accept what I wanna hear.
Smooth kidney pounding teeth rattling bass...and I love it. ;D
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well 3rd alternator and still having the same problem but this one will charge when she revs out to anything above 4000 rpm ???
Me thinks it's still the alternator but its odd that 4 alternators are all buggered grrrr
anyone know where the main wiring loom goes from the alternator down through the inner guard under the fuse box? I think I might replace this too if it is only a plug at the other end as I have another 1 spare ( love having a doner car) ;D
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dunno if its a good one i have another to try somewhere mish for tommorow me thinks back to playing combat arms ;D
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well chucked in another alternator and wow fixed...............for about 30 seconds
then all the dash lights came up again and even with my freshly charged battery t/t was reading 11.5v .
Oh well back to the drawing board.
Im thinking a short somewhere or maybe loose connection but I dunno where to start
grrrrrrrrrr this is getting frustrating
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Yeah it happened once with the other battery so Im pretty sure its not a battery problem but a new 1 is on the list (its a loooong list and the funds are short
)Ok lucky I have a couple spare alternators so will swap it and see how she goes from there.
thanks all
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So suddenly my car has started playing up. BF5 legacy. Randomly all the dash lights come on, the idle goes up a couple hundred rpm and my turbo timer/voltmeter reads lower than 12v and will keep falling the longer it goes ( right down to 8.2v where the car stuttered and coughed so I stopped changed to a good battery and carried on) then just as randomly it goes away.
because I cant make it happen when I want (have time and tools) I cant figure it out. Ive checked all fuses and used crc on all the terminals and earths ect to try and find the fault iv unplugged my turbo timer and pulled the fuse for amp feed and turned off the head unit. what else should I try?
I dont know where to look next so please help as I dont like the thought of being stranded somewhere on the side of the road with bat flattery and its driving me nuts
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look at it this way
the harder you drive it the sooner things will wear out.
option 1 drive it like ya stole it and have a blast but save some $$$ so when something does break you can replace or fix it.
option 2 drive like a nanna, never go above 40kmh, never turn hard enough to actually feel it, and be misrable so you can save your self from the dreaded smiles and happyness.
dun dun duuunnn.
its a subaru drive it and love it cause the powers that be cant wait to take the fun out of life so enjoy it while you still can.
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underdriven pulley i was under the impression it means they spin faster .. i.e the p/s pulley is slightly smaller in diam. And the crank pulley may or may not be the one that is larger in diameter . - think about how a mountain bike gears work to understand the net affect of turning the crank and the affect on the rear wheel
thus = net affect faster rotating p/s pump = better steering at idle (but more work on engine relatively as its higher geared).
this would seem like a negative effect on performance but is sort of correct. A smaller pully would not only effect the total rpm of p.s pump (rpm would go up) but more importantly change the amount of torque used by the p.s pump ( torque would go down) to create the pressure required. Less torque used by ancillarys = more for the motor to do what you want. ;D
this is just the way I see it as there would be no point making aftermarket pullys to make your engine work harder to make the power steering work better.
If all else fails do what I do and just blip the throttle when the steering is too heavy.
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If the noise is a just a tick tick tick then probably just lifters (tappets or whatever). Oil change and lifter cleaner should clear that up but if the noise is a heavy knock knock from low in the engine then it could be the bottom end bearings shagged = new engine.
recond engines can be had quite cheap ie $1800 for standard longblock $3500 for forged so even with the price of the car it can still be quite reasonable and if you shop around you could get a nice, clean, quick car with tons of ks left in it for $5-6 grand. if i were u i would get it just cause they are awesome and quite popular so they are getting quite rare so plenty of resale value left in it.
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I would go for a fuel pump to be safe, fuel rail mod with some yellow injectors, a.f meter and computer to suit then get it tuned properly and away you go. assuming you have things like a free flow exhaust good air filter and everything else runs well I shouldnt think you would need too much more. I am looking to do something similar to my beast once I save some more $$$ and get a recond longblock to go in. hehehe keep us informed on how it goes so I can learn whats what while you do it.
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remote engine starter
in Electrical
Posted
Yea I have seen some cheap alarms on tard meh with remote start, timed start ie 6:25am every week day, pager remotes with start buttons and window control and even txt message communication between you and your car alarm.
All wicked s#!t and makes me want now...
but I would say every one of them will have something like a micro switch next to the gear shifter for manual and an input for neutral in autopiles as to stop it working when car is in gear.
And dont some of you younger(model car) guys have a "clutch in" type ignition anyway?
I have a mate with a 5 speed 2000+ model GTB (cant remember exactly what year) And he has to have clutch in before the car will start so that would make it even harder cost more to do but not impossible.