Subru
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Posts posted by Subru
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2 minutes ago, Loren said:
The timing belt being off by one tooth with not make a noise... the engine just won't run quite right.
But the exhaust wheel fouling on the intake wheel will likely cause a bit of a noise... as in the last picture.
I talked to Alastair at Macbilt again and he confirmed it was off by a tooth and the belt was likley changed without a new tensioner or idlers. He said a new timing belt kit will likley fix it noise.
It definitly feels slow to boost and low power down low due to timing being out.
I don't think the exhaust wheels is fouling on the intake wheel, just looks like it due to the angle of photo. I'll double check that later tho.
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So my new WRX is making a lot of noise specifically on Passenger side of engine. I took it to Subaru mechanic for them to hear it and they said could be valve clearance or buggered piston.
I decided to try a few things before pulling the motor including applying pressure to the belt tensioner. As you can hear the sound goes away but I do have to apply a decent amount of pressure. I also notice the timing may be off by a tooth (although sometimes they 'look' out but are actually correct). The noise goes away when I apply pressure to the tensioner so it would rule out possible piston/valvetrain isues which means there is a timing or tensioner/idler issue correct?
Interested to know if anyone has had something similar before.
The timing components are all from Japan and I can still see some of the yellow lines on the belt. Belt kit was done about 65000kms ago (unless there was one done since with no proof)
Pictures of timing and video of noise below.
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Yeah I'm keen to hit the river bank if that's the plan. Hopefully I can make it this time.
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47 minutes ago, Vaypz said:
Thanks for asking. I replaced the pcv valve and the hose assembly but really need to fully clean up the top of the block to tell whether it’s fixed the seepage.
My next challenge is a coolant leak that coincided with my first drive of the car after doing the pcv work 😢
spray some degreaser on the oil patches, leave for a couple mins then dry off with towel over the end of a screwdriver. After a drive you will see fresh oil if the leak is still there.
make sure to look at this hose in the green box, that one was my issue. Was rock hard and split. May not be your issue tho. Was a pain to change so only replace if u have to.
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On 6/05/2021 at 8:35 AM, Vaypz said:
Yeah true. I’ll clean up the whole area and keep an eye on it.
thanks for your help!
How did u get on? I had same issue on a v7 sti recently. I replaced some pcv hoses (pcv was rattling so that was fine) and it fixed it. The rubber was so brittle I had to cut the hose off. I think it was cracked and therefore leaking the vapors. It was the small 90 degree hose that connects from the block to the hardline that was causing it.
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Never mind I figured it out.
Me not knowing Brembos have two bleed nipples was a factor.
Sorted now, feels mint.
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So today I changed my brake lines in my V7 to Stainless lines as well as replacing fluid with Motul 600. I have bled the brakes using the two person method the same way as I have many times before. When I started car and push the brakes they extremely light, almost no resistance. If I pump the brakes a few times they stiffen up a tad. There is no fluid leak as the fluid level has remained the same after pushing brake pedal 10 or so times. I gravity bled it once (took ages) then used two person method second after it failed.
Am I missing anything? I didnt let the brake system go dry and fluid was always in the reservoir.
Only think I can think of is that the calipers lost fluid when I took the line off and maybe doing the normal bleed technique doesn't quite fill up the calipers enough? Is there another process if replacing the lines?
I have done brake line change in an MX5 and had no issues.
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1 hour ago, boon said:
Yep, did it ages ago, can't say if it makes much difference unless you also have phenolic spaces because your manifold just acts as a giant heatsink for the heads.
Can't remember exactly what was required, I think I just used a cheap plastic irrigation joiner from Bunnings?
ok sweet, yeah I think its pretty easy to do.
I might look into those manifold spacers if I ever need to unbolt the manifold for any reason. Makes sense if the intake manifold is aluminum it totally would act as a heat sink, never thought of that.
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Has anyone done the coolant delete on the throttle body?
Apparently it's only there to prevent everything from freezing which wouldn't be an issue for most of us anyway.
Because it passes hot coolant through the throttle body apparently it increases the air temp by a bit. Saw some overseas forums where they measured a temperature drop after removing those coolant hoses.
Tempted to do the bypass myself.
Also thinking about putting on a turbo blanket and heat wrapping the downpipe for heat management.
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27 minutes ago, boon said:
Nope, no difference. Make sure the loom is long enough. On a V7 the O2 sensor should be at the bottom, if it's at the top you probably have a GC/GF downpipe shoehorned in.
ok sweet, I found the original O2 sensor wire extension under my seat so its all good to go.
The exhaust is pretty straight and 3 inch all the way to about an inch before the genome muffler so it cuts out the bends and flanges so airflow should be okay even if it does have the restriction.
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Another question,
The exhaust from the donor car has the o2 sensor in the 'post cat' area of the downpipe (if there was a cat) but on my car the o2 sensor is at the very top of the downpipe. Will it matter if I move the o2 sensor from top of downpipe to underneath the car without screwing with the tune? I doubt it matters but wanna be sure.
Neither exhaust has a cat.
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3 minutes ago, Loren said:
extremely unlikely to be too restrictive.
Ok sweet. I might go ahead and swap exhausts over.
The genomes are reasonably quiet but when you hit boost it wakes up and sounds pretty good with a 3 inch before it.
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Long story short I have a second V7 Sti and the exhaust is a 3 inch catless turbo back with a sti genome tip (whole exhaust is one peice with no flanges). It sounds really good and wondering about putting it on my black V7 sedan.
My question is would the genome muffler be too restrictive as my black v7 is tuned to 210wkw.
Potentially going for 240-250kw in future. Would it allow for those numbers?
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2 hours ago, PistonBrain said:
Subru has that fixed it?
Yes Cheers.
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15 minutes ago, PistonBrain said:
Old, Wexford road carpark
New, might be difficult,
Clue... south
not sure why but I cant see those photos.
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12 minutes ago, Loren said:
On the intake mani, directly under the throttle. So there is the crankcase breather port... it has a plastic T section... one side goes to the intake pipe, the other goes to the pcv.
Some newer blocks have two crankcase breathers... I just blocked the second one up when I had one of those... I don't know how it is plumbed into the OEM system at all.
Ok thanks. Ill hopefully get this done this weekend.
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11 minutes ago, Loren said:
The air going into the catch can is not metered air... it can be vented to the atmosphere.
The biggest thing to be worried about it is not restricting the flow from the heads and crankcase with small ports on your breather.
I use a 4 port can... one port for each breather appropriately sized... and one large breather port on top which I vent under the car.
Block the paths back into the intake pipe and remove the pcv and block that port too... though some people would prefer to keep it.
Ok very helpful. Thanks.
So where ecactly is the pcv for the crankcase? Is it on the block or intake manifold?
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I want to sort my pvc setup before getting my retune for my V7 Sti and have a few questions.
Would running a three port catch can with one port for both head breathers, second port for crankcase vent and the 'clean air' port (third port) to just run underneath the car instead of back into intake be okay?
Are there any issues letting 'metered air' escape? Id rather let the air go to atmosphere as I bet there is still somehow still oil or other crap in the 'clean' air. Its also easier in my case to just vent it carefully underneath the engine.
Also is it fine to combine the head breathers and crankcase breather into one can? Some people say you should normally run a dual can setup but is that actually necessary?
Id still be catching the oil like a normal can.
Most people just catch the head breather air and be done but the EJ207 has the 3rd crankcase one. This third one (if im correct) under boost pushes air into the intake pipe (pre turbo) and under vacuum it goes into intake manifold.
So for this one id just unplug the hose to the intake pipe (pre turbo) and run to catch can but what do I do with the hose that goes to the intake manifold, block it or keep it?
If catching the crankcase crap isn't worth doing, ill just keep it standard.
Hope thats not confusing to read lol.
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10 minutes ago, boon said:
I'm pretty sure the AFM thing is like... an urban myth or something. So many people out there running oiled K&Ns for years with no issues.
If it bothers you, take the AFM out every service and spray it with AFM cleaner or something.
When I put my V7 on dyno is was dangerously lean according to Chris. He cleaned it and then it was mint. He said its pretty common. That had a K&n oil panel filter at the time.
Looking for one for my mates V7 who has FMIC so it needs a pod filter.
Edit: could be the oil making it dirty or AFM could have just gotten dirty over time but it happened to my old v7 when I got that on the dyno a few years ago.
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Looking for a non oiled 'dry' pod filter for another car as the oil ones mess with AFM.
Tried to google but didn't come up with much.
Maybe the cheap SCA one isnt an oil one but cant be sure.
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Any tips for removing the Lower transmission nut (probably 2 nuts) that are behind the Axle, none of my extensions, spanners or swivel joiners fit or give me the leverage to loosen it. I better not have to remove the damn axle...
EDIT: NVM I lifted engine and gearbox up a bit and it gave me enough room to fit spanner. Hopefully engine will be out tomorrow
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1 hour ago, Loren said:
You could... you are adding a lot more work though. Any reason to think that the sump is full of schmutz?
not rly but in 2 other (non subaru) projects, the sump has plenty of schmutz... although they both had rod knock 😄
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While engine is out should I also take pan off, clean out the schmutz and check oil pickup etc then RTV it back?
Or is this asking for trouble.
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Bit of a thread hijack.
I have a vf30 in my v7 atm. Are vf22 much better and worth swapping? My goal is to make a car that feels quick. I love the way these turbos kick as they make it feel quicker than it is. Will have aem fuel pump, 3 port, full exhaust and tune.
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Timing Belt Tensioner the cause of this noise?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Yeah I agree, being out a tooth will only effect performance and wouldnt cause this noise.
If the tensioner is stuffed however, it can cause that noise (not sure how exactly). There are videos on YouTube that does similar thing to mine. The fact that it stops when I apply pressure tell me it must be a timing component so I will get new gear and hope that it fixes it. 🙂