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Everything posted by Subru

  1. I installed new timing belt kit, water pump etc and it still makes the noise. I did notice when the cambelt was off that when I spin the passenger side intake cam anticlockwise it makes a clicking noise in the head when it starts to engage the valve bucket. It doesn't make the noise if I spin it clockwise (when it hits the other cylinder valve buckets) or with driver side intake cam. That tells me its probably a valve clearance issue after all and that its specifically the intake cam on passenger side of engine one one cylinder (someone can probably tell me what cylinder it is too). I'll
  2. Nope it was missing, good spotting. I did notice that but didn't think it was super important. I think I'll try find one before I put it back together.
  3. Yeah I agree, being out a tooth will only effect performance and wouldnt cause this noise. If the tensioner is stuffed however, it can cause that noise (not sure how exactly). There are videos on YouTube that does similar thing to mine. The fact that it stops when I apply pressure tell me it must be a timing component so I will get new gear and hope that it fixes it. 🙂
  4. I talked to Alastair at Macbilt again and he confirmed it was off by a tooth and the belt was likley changed without a new tensioner or idlers. He said a new timing belt kit will likley fix it noise. It definitly feels slow to boost and low power down low due to timing being out. I don't think the exhaust wheels is fouling on the intake wheel, just looks like it due to the angle of photo. I'll double check that later tho.
  5. So my new WRX is making a lot of noise specifically on Passenger side of engine. I took it to Subaru mechanic for them to hear it and they said could be valve clearance or buggered piston. I decided to try a few things before pulling the motor including applying pressure to the belt tensioner. As you can hear the sound goes away but I do have to apply a decent amount of pressure. I also notice the timing may be off by a tooth (although sometimes they 'look' out but are actually correct). The noise goes away when I apply pressure to the tensioner so it would rule out possible piston/valvet
  6. Yeah I'm keen to hit the river bank if that's the plan. Hopefully I can make it this time.
  7. Subru

    Update photo

    Awesome, thanks for sorting that.
  8. Subru

    Update photo

    No stress. Whoever manages the website should be able to add a button for changing photo pretty easily.
  9. Subru

    Update photo

    I still cant edit my small profile photo (currently my old V11). If you have to do it manually can an admin please change it to this when they get a chance https://ibb.co/cC0Z7X6
  10. spray some degreaser on the oil patches, leave for a couple mins then dry off with towel over the end of a screwdriver. After a drive you will see fresh oil if the leak is still there. make sure to look at this hose in the green box, that one was my issue. Was rock hard and split. May not be your issue tho. Was a pain to change so only replace if u have to.
  11. How did u get on? I had same issue on a v7 sti recently. I replaced some pcv hoses (pcv was rattling so that was fine) and it fixed it. The rubber was so brittle I had to cut the hose off. I think it was cracked and therefore leaking the vapors. It was the small 90 degree hose that connects from the block to the hardline that was causing it.
  12. Never mind I figured it out. Me not knowing Brembos have two bleed nipples was a factor. Sorted now, feels mint.
  13. So today I changed my brake lines in my V7 to Stainless lines as well as replacing fluid with Motul 600. I have bled the brakes using the two person method the same way as I have many times before. When I started car and push the brakes they extremely light, almost no resistance. If I pump the brakes a few times they stiffen up a tad. There is no fluid leak as the fluid level has remained the same after pushing brake pedal 10 or so times. I gravity bled it once (took ages) then used two person method second after it failed. Am I missing anything? I didnt let the brake system go dry and fl
  14. ok sweet, yeah I think its pretty easy to do. I might look into those manifold spacers if I ever need to unbolt the manifold for any reason. Makes sense if the intake manifold is aluminum it totally would act as a heat sink, never thought of that.
  15. Has anyone done the coolant delete on the throttle body? Apparently it's only there to prevent everything from freezing which wouldn't be an issue for most of us anyway. Because it passes hot coolant through the throttle body apparently it increases the air temp by a bit. Saw some overseas forums where they measured a temperature drop after removing those coolant hoses. Tempted to do the bypass myself. Also thinking about putting on a turbo blanket and heat wrapping the downpipe for heat management.
  16. ok sweet, I found the original O2 sensor wire extension under my seat so its all good to go. The exhaust is pretty straight and 3 inch all the way to about an inch before the genome muffler so it cuts out the bends and flanges so airflow should be okay even if it does have the restriction.
  17. Another question, The exhaust from the donor car has the o2 sensor in the 'post cat' area of the downpipe (if there was a cat) but on my car the o2 sensor is at the very top of the downpipe. Will it matter if I move the o2 sensor from top of downpipe to underneath the car without screwing with the tune? I doubt it matters but wanna be sure. Neither exhaust has a cat.
  18. Ok sweet. I might go ahead and swap exhausts over. The genomes are reasonably quiet but when you hit boost it wakes up and sounds pretty good with a 3 inch before it.
  19. Long story short I have a second V7 Sti and the exhaust is a 3 inch catless turbo back with a sti genome tip (whole exhaust is one peice with no flanges). It sounds really good and wondering about putting it on my black V7 sedan. My question is would the genome muffler be too restrictive as my black v7 is tuned to 210wkw. Potentially going for 240-250kw in future. Would it allow for those numbers?
  20. not sure why but I cant see those photos.
  21. Ok thanks. Ill hopefully get this done this weekend.
  22. Ok very helpful. Thanks. So where ecactly is the pcv for the crankcase? Is it on the block or intake manifold?
  23. I want to sort my pvc setup before getting my retune for my V7 Sti and have a few questions. Would running a three port catch can with one port for both head breathers, second port for crankcase vent and the 'clean air' port (third port) to just run underneath the car instead of back into intake be okay? Are there any issues letting 'metered air' escape? Id rather let the air go to atmosphere as I bet there is still somehow still oil or other crap in the 'clean' air. Its also easier in my case to just vent it carefully underneath the engine. Also is it fine to combine the
  24. When I put my V7 on dyno is was dangerously lean according to Chris. He cleaned it and then it was mint. He said its pretty common. That had a K&n oil panel filter at the time. Looking for one for my mates V7 who has FMIC so it needs a pod filter. Edit: could be the oil making it dirty or AFM could have just gotten dirty over time but it happened to my old v7 when I got that on the dyno a few years ago.
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