swamp
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Posts posted by swamp
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What's the changeover? Very interesting, so the main difference would be the two turbs and how they are arranged really with lines and such. And of course slight variances i.e. Coil packs vs coil on plugs etc. Thanks for your offer @SpeedySub will keep that in mind.
I'd willingly buy a sedan too, I don't mind. Just think manual/turbo is a non negotiable as I will be trying to sell (after I enjoy it of course), only because I can't part with me wrx and prelude and three fun cars to one guy is a bit greedy.
Do you know of the most popular colours?
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Hey guys
I'm thinking of buying doer-uppers relatively cheap, fixing them and respraying (a more of a refresh than a full on resto) and I'm interested in a gt bg legacy. I understand the code is BG5?
They are probably more one of my favourite generations of legacy having that "svelte" look before Subaru went all boxy/angular.
I have a bit of experience troubleshooting with my ej20g 95 wrx, but I'm guessing with the tt leggies there's less engine room and more Hoses and such, and there are Hoses from hell on the bg5s?
Facelift/kouki bumpers look sweet imo, are they sought after/any other special bits that legacy people love?
I am completely ignorant to legacies being completely gc/gf focused but how well will they go being 276hp/1400kg compared to the wrx of the time being 220hp/1200kg?
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You could've tried bkr6e11ix, I'm not sure if later gc8 being coil pack ign recommend iridiums but early models with coil on plug require iridiums being a hotter direct spark. Plus those are notch v groove plugs, could probably run them safely in dizzy n/a low comp engines but I'm not sure if they're right for your car. It does suck that you got rid of it. 😭
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I'm late to the party but
I'm no mechanic but an avid youtube and Internet researcher and will admit a strong jdm bias
I'd say German engineering and design is about building the best using cutting edge innovation, new tech, different materials (plastic intake manifolds, x amount of computers, etc etc)
Japanese - what can last beyond service intervals, price and affordability, ease of service.
Course as things progress over the years lines get blurred as manufacturers aim higher. Case in point Toyota being bulletproof in the 80s/90s to a few older mechanics giving me sheepish looks when I ask what kind of modern cars can live past 300xxx km with ease like the old Corollas.
So therefore with good maintenance high ks is not too important.
But I'd say jdm better at higher km, though I've only done about 100,000km in owning 5 Japanese cars, all but one over 190km and 1980-2000 MY. No euros, yet 🤔
Edit: watched your video and must say your rs7 sounds nice. Bet it sounds even nicer on downshifts, cracks n pops n all.
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I had to Google verboten
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You can actually get a good deal on riced out 20yr old sh*tters, they're usually so ugly your average buyer won't go near them for that reason. Matte spraycan home paint jobs, ugly wheels, done up interiors, cosmetic dents, bad taste mods can get you a cheap daily that would otherwise be 500-1000 dollars extra unmodified and have more buyers interested.
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Not sure if right subforum, defs wrong forum but i don't want to join a Nissan forum just yet.
Car in question is a Nissan Serena c23 with an sr20de. I'm fixing it and when I was going to replace the crank angle sensor I found a few dodgy wires going to it. Big one is this wire that has no insulation, can't be factory but someone has extended it a little then wrapped it round the rest and taped up.. Not sure what it does but CAS connector is 4 pin and the connector it goes to is 5 (unused therefore).
As the connector is the same for various other sr2des, some rbs, I've looked at wiring diagrams for said cars (bugger all for Serenas online) and still nothing.
I'm guessing it could be for troubleshooting? But the cut and tape job surely can't be factory. And I'm gonna fit wires of the same gauge to the CAS replacing the thin ones currently connected to it
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How are you going to restore it? Mask off windscreen etc and spray that vinyl dye stuff? I'm interested to know as my dash is spotty in places
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I'd rather walk.
Or drive a clapped out dx corolla
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PBMS only use open deck blocks for street builds and recommend 200kw at the crank max (268hp).
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What sorts of things would make a link g4+ or haltech worth it? 20 or so other things needing upgrade and no significant increase after spending 2.5k?
All very good information! Surprised that no one really recommends an electronic boost controller, but suppose that's redundant as sti upgrade is there.
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Would something like this work fine in the place of a v2 sti ecu?
https://www.trademe.co.nz/2477365435
Its a v4 sti ecu with mines chip listed for $150. I may get in touch with Strongs and see if they have any sti v2 ecu, probably going to be $$$$$.
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1 hour ago, SpeedySub said:
I would say
Once you have the turbo/ECU in the car, enjoy the increase in power and save for a Link and tune. This way you won't run out of turbo as quickly as you would with the TD04 set up with a Link.
Also I have a spare set of yellow injectors if you want.
*note: someone more informed than me can give advice on VF turbos
Save for link and tune, enjoy mild upgrade sounds like a great plan. If I'm chasing say 300hp at the crank will I need extra stuff like later tmic or higher pressure cooling system? Or is 300hp too unambitious with g4+, tune, stock internals?
Just throwing that number round as I think v6 sti made 275hp due to gentleman's agreement in Japan, 300 is an improvement on that using a lower spec engine. Fyi my engine has standard hesdgaskets, most likely same for the gravel express.
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11 hours ago, ginganinja said:
Upgrade to a 94 Sti Ecu, STI VF28 /VF23 or similar and yellow sti injectors and be done.
Should be able to get all second hand for good price.
Nice. Wouldn't it be good to get brand new injectors though? Ive never replaced injectors but are they a thing that fail after x amount of km?
It makes sense to do it this way given the lego like nature of our cars. And I'm sure my engine can safely handle that power... Hopefully. I've been told my deck being open is one of the better open deck blocks, and that my turbo is a good ball bearing type, spools well and has a good sound to it. So guys with gravel express should have the same as wrx sa..
I've checked prices on new ebc and widebands and it could be around 500-1k for both, if sti upgrade is cheaper then why not. In my opinion it seems ebc etc are more for cars that don't have that lego like swap in better ecu/turbo/injectors from higher spec model.
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Hi guys I'm just doing some research on which way is best to go to make more power. A balance between cost and reliability really, big power isn't really a goal of mine.
I have a my94 wrx with an open deck block and td04. I plan on upgrading to mls headgaskets and possibly bigger oil pump and just refreshing seals and gaskets when I do the timing belt and wp, nothing too flash.
I've read that stock my ej20g can handle 14 psi.. I'd like to get something around that, but how best to do it? I've been looking at electronic boost controllers and widebands as that sorta stuff seems to be midrange, but a plug in link g4+ seems to be the way to go in terms of power potential reliability and efficiency.
Ideally would like to keep my td04 just because single scroll.
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I have a fet that's probably been in there before the car came to nz
I feel like it excessively times my car to cool down, like 120 sec after driving 10km to work and thats a sedate drive rarely getting over 3k rpm. I'll usually shut it down after 20 sec.
They aren't needed, but it can help if you are the type to forget or to always be in a rush..or to boost then just turn the thing off.
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The sensor mightve been getting a bad reading from the iacv? I'd suggest cleaning the iacv it's pretty easy with a cotton bud and some throttle body cleaner. I think you might have to connect the other connectors to clear the codes once you've done. It's been a while since I've done this but pretty sure you don't have to do anything to clear the codes.
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Today I fitted a recently acquired and tidied up STI front strut brace.
And I gave her her first cut and polish since being resprayed.
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Thread dredge but 90s jdm sports/performance cars are becoming thin on the ground and are kinda at the end of their value being at their lowest. So they will go up in price as people are prepared to pay more as they become rarer and people hold on to them for longer.
That being said showroom near new collectors items will see the biggest rises, whereas your clapped out 250+km wrxes will see smaller increases in value.
Even milennials want 90s jdm, that's how much better (or at least, better looking in their mind) those cars are compared to their modern counterparts.
People will get desperate as their chances of owning a wrx lessen. So will pay more for crap condition wrxs.
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14 hours ago, Joker said:
use the Prelude, why buy another when you've got something thats's already cheap as chips
Honda wins every time (even on the track : the STI boys just wont admit it)
Unfortunately mines riddled with rust. The plan is to swap a few panels over and get a few goodies like lips, sideskirts, fogs, a good alternator and coolant hoses, and maybe that manual transmission.
Subies win on the gravel and the ice 😊
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9am-9pm
Prepping bumpers
Masking up, final cleaning of everything
Chuck it in the paint booth
Et voila - no more faded, peely, cracked, depigmented red gf8, but a fresh coat of 936!
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I love the 5th, would own one. All generations look good imo. Everyone seems to rate preludes, esp 3rd gens. (excluding the usual anti Honda and anti fwd crowd)
Mines a 3rd gen, supposedly has b20a which supposedly made 160hp new as opposed to other motors which made around 140-143. A 'field find' shall we say sat under a guys tree for some time and got a lot of tree crap/rust. I've got a parts car lined up a 89 nz new manual which will donate some panels that aren't rusty and will have to fab up the rest.
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You have to either bake your assy in the oven or use a heat gun to help get the lens off.
It depends on what you want to do, you could try either opening it up and adding extra sealant, maybe using soapy water and blowing compressed air to find the leak or using water with uv dye and trying to. Find the leak that way.
Those are all time consuming methods though and I personally like drilling a tiny hole at a low point and considering it done
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Could be a boost leak, or maybe vacuum - I'd suggest checking all boost and vacuum lines especially around intake manifold and intercooler.. You could have a bad hose that has a tiny split in it. The line to the gauge is an often overlooked culprit too.
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BG Legacy - buying tips, what to look for, goodies?
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
That lemon yellow does look nice. The dark blue seems pretty common, should be alright I spose but I saw a sedan on TM that was a dark maroon colour. Those three are all nice but I reckon yellow for its uniqueness, followed by all those mentioned with no love for silver