swamp

I had to Google verboten

You can actually get a good deal on riced out 20yr old sh*tters, they're usually so ugly your average buyer won't go near them for that reason. Matte spraycan home paint jobs, ugly wheels, done up interiors, cosmetic dents, bad taste mods can get you a cheap daily that would otherwise be 500-1000 dollars extra unmodified and have more buyers interested.

Not sure if right subforum, defs wrong forum but i don't want to join a Nissan forum just yet. Car in question is a Nissan Serena c23 with an sr20de. I'm fixing it and when I was going to replace the crank angle sensor I found a few dodgy wires going to it. Big one is this wire that has no insulation, can't be factory but someone has extended it a little then wrapped it round the rest and taped up.. Not sure what it does but CAS connector is 4 pin and the connector it goes to is 5 (unused therefore). As the connector is the same for various other sr2des, some rbs, I've looked at wiring diagrams for said cars (bugger all for Serenas online) and still nothing. I'm guessing it could be for troubleshooting? But the cut and tape job surely can't be factory. And I'm gonna fit wires of the same gauge to the CAS replacing the thin ones currently connected to it

How are you going to restore it? Mask off windscreen etc and spray that vinyl dye stuff? I'm interested to know as my dash is spotty in places

I'd rather walk. Or drive a clapped out dx corolla

PBMS only use open deck blocks for street builds and recommend 200kw at the crank max (268hp). https://youtu.be/UDSHuVuPQE0

What sorts of things would make a link g4+ or haltech worth it? 20 or so other things needing upgrade and no significant increase after spending 2.5k? All very good information! Surprised that no one really recommends an electronic boost controller, but suppose that's redundant as sti upgrade is there.

Would something like this work fine in the place of a v2 sti ecu? https://www.trademe.co.nz/2477365435 Its a v4 sti ecu with mines chip listed for $150. I may get in touch with Strongs and see if they have any sti v2 ecu, probably going to be $$$$$.

Save for link and tune, enjoy mild upgrade sounds like a great plan. If I'm chasing say 300hp at the crank will I need extra stuff like later tmic or higher pressure cooling system? Or is 300hp too unambitious with g4+, tune, stock internals? Just throwing that number round as I think v6 sti made 275hp due to gentleman's agreement in Japan, 300 is an improvement on that using a lower spec engine. Fyi my engine has standard hesdgaskets, most likely same for the gravel express.

Nice. Wouldn't it be good to get brand new injectors though? Ive never replaced injectors but are they a thing that fail after x amount of km? It makes sense to do it this way given the lego like nature of our cars. And I'm sure my engine can safely handle that power... Hopefully. I've been told my deck being open is one of the better open deck blocks, and that my turbo is a good ball bearing type, spools well and has a good sound to it. So guys with gravel express should have the same as wrx sa.. I've checked prices on new ebc and widebands and it could be around 500-1k for both, if sti upgrade is cheaper then why not. In my opinion it seems ebc etc are more for cars that don't have that lego like swap in better ecu/turbo/injectors from higher spec model.

Hi guys I'm just doing some research on which way is best to go to make more power. A balance between cost and reliability really, big power isn't really a goal of mine. I have a my94 wrx with an open deck block and td04. I plan on upgrading to mls headgaskets and possibly bigger oil pump and just refreshing seals and gaskets when I do the timing belt and wp, nothing too flash. I've read that stock my ej20g can handle 14 psi.. I'd like to get something around that, but how best to do it? I've been looking at electronic boost controllers and widebands as that sorta stuff seems to be midrange, but a plug in link g4+ seems to be the way to go in terms of power potential reliability and efficiency. Ideally would like to keep my td04 just because single scroll.

I have a fet that's probably been in there before the car came to nz I feel like it excessively times my car to cool down, like 120 sec after driving 10km to work and thats a sedate drive rarely getting over 3k rpm. I'll usually shut it down after 20 sec. They aren't needed, but it can help if you are the type to forget or to always be in a rush..or to boost then just turn the thing off.

The sensor mightve been getting a bad reading from the iacv? I'd suggest cleaning the iacv it's pretty easy with a cotton bud and some throttle body cleaner. I think you might have to connect the other connectors to clear the codes once you've done. It's been a while since I've done this but pretty sure you don't have to do anything to clear the codes.

Today I fitted a recently acquired and tidied up STI front strut brace. And I gave her her first cut and polish since being resprayed.

Thread dredge but 90s jdm sports/performance cars are becoming thin on the ground and are kinda at the end of their value being at their lowest. So they will go up in price as people are prepared to pay more as they become rarer and people hold on to them for longer. That being said showroom near new collectors items will see the biggest rises, whereas your clapped out 250+km wrxes will see smaller increases in value. Even milennials want 90s jdm, that's how much better (or at least, better looking in their mind) those cars are compared to their modern counterparts. People will get desperate as their chances of owning a wrx lessen. So will pay more for crap condition wrxs.