swamp

Modern vehicle servicing yuck

You might want to phone tower and ask them if your car is covered. Tell them the mods, exhaust and bov, pretend to be a prospective customer. It pays to find out before you have to make a claim, touch wood, than when you do and realise you aren’t entitled to be paid out. Tower is pretty good, but they’ve toughened up the criteria in the past few years, as have AA. Im with AA and being a larger insurer with a solid credit rating and high volume, there’s less finding ways to not pay out a claim, and more getting claims sorted. Plus you find out who is a good insurer when you need them - almost 10 years ago my MR2 got broken into, AA took care of the tow, repair, and were really efficient. AA I believe were also one of the few if not the only insurer that sent people on the ground in Christchurch after the earthquakes where other insurers stuck their heads in the sand.

Hey guys I’ve been having trouble wiring my alarm in my daily after some c***s stole it. it’s a Subaru outback (BH), 2000 and the alarm is a keyless entry push button start one. The ignition wiring was straightforward. I’ve been struggling with wiring in the indicators that flash when the remote unlock or lock is activated, as well as the door locks. the indicator wires are both + according to the diagram, but they don’t work when hooked up to the + of the wires at the hazard switch, indicator switch, and the side indicator. I’m able to get the doors to unlock, but cannot get them to lock. Initially I believed I had a single pulse negative set up and got a latching relay and 5 pole spdt relay, but I think another wiring diagram I’ve found is what I’ve got: The car alarm diagram: the plan I followed: the relays: Factory keyless entry option which I don’t have:

Yup unfortunately for a lot of wrx fans, they are yet to find out this ugly truth

Is it otherwise a straightforward swap?

@THUNDA my car had been stolen and they had broken the tabs the switch fits in.

After much head scratching, trying different things and sometimes same things over and over, I’ve solved this problem! it didn’t help that the wiring diagrams - I’ve seen about three different sources - are have different wiring colours and don’t have repair/troubleshoot procedures. Meaning that I’ve had to puzzle together what info they’ve given and combine that with past knowledge and experience which isn’t that extensive. I saw this video at the start of the day, and thought I’d perhaps test this out if all fails. Because I was 90% certain that the tail lights can operate without the park light switch. my wires were orange and white with green stripe.

Thanks for your reply @Gripless I’ve tested it with all the bulbs in after checking that each bulb/holder works. Yesterday I hooked up the +/- of each bulb to a battery to test and they all worked. ive checked the rear plug and the one under the dash, the wire at both plugs show the same result. So thus there isn’t any voltage from the front. I really think it’s an issue with the switch. Or relay as you suggest. it could also be the park light switch on top of the column, perhaps that needs to be connected to complete the circuits. I don’t know which relay it is Lol, I’ll go over the diagrams with fresh eyes. Are you testing with all bulbs removed on the tail lights? Maybe one side has a short or corroded. If you can test at the plugs under or near the rear seats. That may tell you if the issue is at the front or rear of the car. If you have voltage there then the issue isn’t the switch or fuse box damage.

Hey guys I’m chasing electrical gremlins with no luck thus far. my tail lights do not work. The brake lights do, so do the number plate bulbs that run off the same circuit as the tail lights. I did have a leak in the tailgate centre garnish, so siliconed it up. The bulb holders got a bit corroded so I got in there with a rotary tool and replaced one that was Too far gone. New bulbs too, but the old ones still work. my car was recently stolen and recovered, I haven’t tested the light switch which could’ve been damaged? But they did wreck the column and the park light switch that sits atop it. I haven’t tested this circuit but I have managed to press the switch against its contacts and made the relay click but haven’t seen the lights come on. Ive found that the tail light power wire has >1 volt at the connector at the rear. This is also the same at the connector behind the under-dash fuse box. I’ve checked all relays - not properly but can hear em click - and my fuses are working. But I need some advice as I’m missing something..

I really would like an SVX they’re amazing to look at and must be to drive too. Only an engine/manual swap away from unleashing the potential. Also after owning a BH9 Lancaster 2.5 I would consider something like an ez30/ez36-powered outback. They have a higher tow rating than the 2.5 and I really do like the practicality of the BH platform but would go newer possibly.

cheers guys my rocker cover gasket was a relative breeze For anyone with a big engine say ej254 or ez30 I recommend this Koken quick spinner part no 2756 I got this from Amazon along with other Koken tools I used on this, love my 72 tooth 150mm flex head 3/8” ratchet! They’re priced pretty well and they’re quality. I jacked the engine up off the sump, all three engine mounts have to be loosened up. I found that the easiest way to get your engine to line back up with the mounts is do the top one first, use a screwdriver or chisel to pry it in place. Use lube and a gentle hammer if the bolt needs a bit of help getting in. but be smart! Don’t be like me and jack the sump up with cardboard. Get a bit of wood! I dented my sump. It doesn’t leak, is covered by the under tray, and is getting sold soon, so all good!

Cheers @Gripless it looks like it’ll be a 50/50 chance at getting it when buying a second hard part. though 3d print+replacement spring+bit of glue could be a solution

Hello all just wondering how to fix this issue. basically the steering wheel locks when turned repeatedly in one direction, but on my vehicles it does not. Is there a part that can be replaced? I have a 1995 GF8 which had a steering rack replacement and more recently a 2000 BH9 which was stolen, but I got it back, and they’ve damaged the ignition. I’d like to restore it to factory lock as well with my wrx. Cheers.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005560643896.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.3a78f4d2eBBJkw&browser_id=62c41f0dea084e5ea00104832fa67768&aff_trace_key=bb4ca30dab7847bf8a676b4ffdd7fa85-1698526432517-06092-_DkRRuMl&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=wxfbhxeszcaxoyzh18b8d04326b79be8f1415d2419&gclid=&pdp_npi=4%40dis!NZD!18.55!9.27!!!10.53!!%402103011516988779444107621e1e3c!12000033547623916!sea!NZ!4768167354!&algo_pvid=5e4b04f3-4936-4e79-8ec4-41691acfaf79&_universallink=1&m_page_id=wxfbhxeszcaxoyzh18b8d04326b79be8f1415d2419 I bought one of these a while back. It came in a ‘Billion’ box which I didn’t even know was an actual brand. Pretty good and seems to work, cut a hole in your bumper for the dorts

Big dredge but I have an EJ254 the bottom corner bolts hit the subframe.. is it as simple as undoing the two 14mm bolts on the lower engine mounts, and the one going through the upper one, then jacking up the engine off the sump a little bit to where the bolts have enough room to come out? Sorry, first time doing this job. Cheers