swamp

Some people @boon will go to great lengths, plate and tag, changing rear windscreens, plenty of dodgy folk love early model 90s Subarus, plenty of dodgy wof/bro deals out there despite the recent crackdown. In short, the only way to do it without a cert is to go to great lengths to circumvent the law.

OP could potentially get away without a cert... But yes unfortunately it would be cheaper and easier to buy a wrx than do your swap...

Here we go: Interesting to note that they not only fray and crack but also stretch! And those belts service intervals are 160km 🤪

Cheers all for the advice. I will do all advised, but preferably stay with a single scroll turbo. I'm going to the wreckers this week, gonna look out for a better intercooler (and good pipe) V6 or 7 is the biggest that will fit, right? Will get a decent bov, make sure my engine is 100 when I do the timing belt+wp, so that 260 crank hp is agreeable with my engine. I may have to speak to an expert about head planing, my cars overheated before but hasn't blown a gasket (still waiting on that combustion leak test kit from ebay) Reliable power is mint!

I have a v1 wrx. I literally took my intercooler pipe (because I am not paying 250 plus for a brand new one, plus it looks very restrictive) and went to nzkw, supercheap, repco and made something similar out of silicone Hoses, large radiator hose, hose Clamps, and high temp rtv. It's very fugly and rfb but works well, boosts okay, bit more lag which is fun and I will replace it when I go to like a v7 ic.

My Sw20 had it right up to the frunk firewall. Probably to compliment its high level drag coefficient? Shed built shoestring budget aero may work with no R&D, but usually just more bling?

Hey yall My timing belt is due in 2-3000km (from what I can remember on the sticker before water ate it) but is there any way I can look at the timing belt easily to gauge what it looks like? Car in question is a v1 wrx ej20g and the timing covers. Look like they are only accessible from front bolts, which involves removing ps pump, alternator, and AC compressor+their belts+pulleys etc. And I'd rather just 5min check than do all that work lol. And also what can I look for, cracks, fraying, standard belt wear things? Water pump isn't weeping, just the two pipes are looking a little worse for wear but no leaks or noises from it. Only just asking cos I want to know if I can still do maybe 500-1000km on this timing belt while I wait for the parts to come in. Cheers

Went for a 60km boring cruise down state highways with lots of commuters for a 40km fun stretch of road, just to test that everything is working as it should. Not pushed too hard as I've never been down it before. Great success 👍

Put back on air intake etc, throttle body, intercooler, water tank, iacv, strut tower brace, reconnected pcv/egr/injectors/water hoses, bled coolant, oil change, rfb fixed a tiny solenoid hose with a boost gauge line that's the next tiny size up, fixed some previous rfb repairs, tidied up threads, stains etc, wiped down garage floor, got a CEL, had a fugly idle and loud ticking sound, adjusted iacv, diagnosed loud injector, did aforementioned rfb repairs, CEL gone on second start up. Excess oil dumped on tree stump under cover of darkness. CEL not checked, took me 9 hours. Time for bed 👍

Gut the cat, look on YouTube No need to save save save. 👍

Hey guys I've done some reading up on pcv valves and with my ic/tb off I'm gonna attempt giving it a good clean - but will replace it soon for peace of mind. For those that don't know they sit at the back of your intake manifold below the throttle body. There's four options of pcv valves for our cars according to Amayama, mine is discontinued being a 93-94 manufactured car that used quite a bit of specific, now discontinued parts (GF8 WRX SA). I've checked all part numbers and there is one that is 123 nzd and the other one is 11821AA460 from 1997/04 - 1998/07 cars which is 7.54 nzd. I'm sure if the thread and diameter is the same as earlier gc/GF models it should be alright! But with no pics or expert who can physically check the stock it's not 100% confirmed. So if anyone can confirm it'll bolt right up no modification required that would be greatly appreciated 👍

Thread dredge - - - I did this with I think tb cleaner when my car sat for a year and I went home to get it. I ended up having a few issues, limp mode and terrible fuel economy. My spark plugs were f***Ed absolutely coated in gunk. It could be that my plugs were already on their way out and the carbon just got transferred to them? But maybe don't spend 140 or so on new iridiums only to prematurely shorten their life. (if doing this does that to spark plugs). But I run my car on gull 98, do 3km oil changes, owned it for approx 30,000km of its 240,000km life and top of my valves are fugly!

You'll also need turbo subframe, exhaust, and you'll find that the water pumps are different between the two, so you'll need the turbo water pump if it doesn't come with your engine that you're buying. This is just info I've got from a colleague who's done it, during smoko and all I can remember without making a written list. Hope it helps and good luck.

Installed water pump pipe Tidied up threads on main coolant pipe bolts just ran em thru a m6x1.0 die Cleaned up top of block/heads with old toothbrush and brake kleen Refitted oil dipstick tube Tried to see if the belt I had laying round would replace my a/c belt that's badly frayed - nope its a p/s belt Started refitting a/c compressor

How big is the crack in it? Having tried many methods fixing cracks I've found what may be the holy grail method, use the three suction cup based resin tool with vaseline so u can slide it up and down on the crack but from beneath use a flexi lighter inside to heat windscreen as someone else applies pressure from other side. The heat expands and it'll accept the resin better. Might save you some money? Today I ripped off the last remaining hose off my water pump. It was seized despite being a relatively new hose, the pipe was really rusty. I may have damaged it with vice grips as it has slight cuts in it. Won't take any chances will try to get a new one in ASAP. If anyone has any tips or some good tools to use on Hoses please do share. Then unbolted and moved out of the way the AC compressor so I can get the water pipe out. And accidentally pulled out the dipstick tube. Then called it a night. I'm replacing the water pump pipe. Would love some good 14/10mm ratcheting spanners, maybe even a slim/shallow 1/4" koken ratchet, would make the job much easier.