swamp

Added to watch later Thanks izichard

If you're really unsure, chuck some UV leak detection dye in your oil and run it for a week maybe. Then put on the glasses that come with the kit and the uv torch and itll pinpoint where the leak(s) are..

Supercharged? Was it sold here in NZ? Sounds super rare. You may have to speak to a kiwi/aussie on the ground in Japan or someone trustworthy in a country where they were sold in high numbers if you can't get one in NZ.. May even have to buy whole car or half cut. It can't hurt to contact wreckers, but being an older ace, which is quite a rare car like the leones/justy it's likely a lot of them won't have anything. Maybe make a long list of wreckers and call them all first. Would be cheaper to get engine locally than from overseas or donor car.

On Saturday picked up my AE101R Corolla, today fitted oem BA5 Prelude wheels with near new (chinese) 195/65r14 tyres on them, taller tyre than the oe 175/65r14s, fills the wheel arches better. Chucked the preludes 30 y/o spare on the prelude, plus the 3 worst tyres from the Corolla on it, including the full size spare that was *mint* no cracks lots of tread but can't risk running a 24y/o tyre. Drove it back cautiously through the desert road, one tyre was tough and cracked bad, one was a bit bald despite being warranted. Ripping fwd wheel spin is fun (on said crappy tyres) but I want to look after my new daily Was kinda sketchy, so knew better than to push it on damp frosty roads especially with those strong winds.

I picked up a daily today from wellywood, there must've been something going on today as there was a v1/2 555 liveried GC8 around as well as many tough looking later model sti/wrx. (and mx5s, but we won't go there lol).

Znoelli are highly rated from what I read online. And supposedly quite affordable direct. Maybe not just read this is daily driving use only.

@Gripless I'm not sure if v11 would work, that's like ej205? Mines an old v1 haha.

I'll definitely do all those seals, cheers. I'm gonna look into doing it all slow and carefully with the big seal puller tool, don't want to damage anything, clean up any surfaces with a wire wheel drill attachment. 1.6mm, are they the best? I will not be doing anything really quick, no rush, never done this before so will be doing it slow n steady haha.

Ended up getting an ae101, or is it ae101r? 96 Corolla sedan, 4AFE, manual, 260kms s edan, not the nicer/practical/slightly more expensive hatch. Was considering a 95 Charade also manual but had to get wof/reg. "girlfriends" Note that daihatsu parts catalogs are hard to find online, or. I'm just looking in the wrong places, so with Toyota I have that new parts at amayama prices option. Planning on doing a big service with new parts from repco, they're as common as n/a gf imprezas at wreckers so will stock up on some stuff, give it a polish etc, pics to come

My 95 Gf8 wrx only broke down once - a bad fuel pump but probably hadn't been changed in its 213000km life (when I got it) plus most likely ran dry from being run on e heaps. Need to replace various bits, like intake hose/intercooler pipe, but like others have said not many people in NZ change/service parts and will sell a high km car saying good condition but really it's a time bomb with many parts soon to fail. Before I got my Subaru, I had crashed my MR2 in a ditch and the local panelbeater who I got it towed to (then drove home 250m haha) was like careful, theyre likely to be thrashed etc, mr2 lads were like save up for a Headgasket etc. I only did maybe 15,000km in the 91 MR2, faults were starting to show I.e random leaks from those long coolant pipes, I had to re torque my valve cover cos it started smoking lol, and plus I had done a 180 on a simple corner in the wet, had decent yokohama a-drive/a-drive tyres on the 14s, drove it gently and wham. I found when I was pulling it apart someone had put top hats the wrong way round iirc, and replaced one sides shocks but not the other. And tyres tyres tyres is the mantra for MR2s, I spent close to 1800 dollars on nice rays 17s and BS Potenza re003s/s001s and they drove really nice but destroyed one wheel and tyre 1000km later in said crash. But from a technical standpoint I'd say Subies are super reliable. I never have to worry about leaving the road, only done that once when I braked way too late, they grip and grip and grip, my mid range pirellis screech long before I lose any traction, I never have to worry about the weather if I want to go for a spirited drive (except for ice/snow) unlike an mr2 where any rain or gravel is a no no, the stock brakes are better than some? comparable cars, I know a31 cefiros aren't as good. Only had to deal with small amounts of parking outside rust, underbody and engine bay is really good as they've done a good job with rust prevention from factory.

Hey all I'm planning to pull my engine soon to do the timing belt. Just need some advice re what else to do, shopping list etc. Car in question is a 95 gf8 wrx, with 240kms. Stock, td04, going for reliability>power So far I've decided on a Mitsuboshi timing belt as they're affordable at repco and supposedly (mrsubaru1387 on YouTube) that's what Subaru use factory. Plus an Aisin Waterpump, also oem going by mrsubaru1387. Is it worth changing Idlers pulleys etc or will I only know that when testing them for play? I'm going to replace the Headgaskets with mls ones, I see there's 0.6mm ones 11044AA4839/11044AA482 are the part numbers for those. And get the heads/block skimmed as the car has overheated before and I don't want to take any chances. Plus I've read on here it isn't too expensive to get done. I've read on Scoobynet replacing big end and main bearings is important too as well as a bottom end rebuild, but I'm not too sure about this... I would like to do the clutch, it doesn't slip or anything but can't hurt to right. I'm thinking about exedy oe replacement as I've read it's slightly more aggressive than stock which is nice. Gonna get the seal and gasket kit too.

@Sweenz I didn't. Lol I'd recommend 2000g with water. If you have a mini polisher/sander then buff it out with that.

The prelude is going, not because I can't fix the rust (I would attempt fail and repeat lol) but it's an expensive fix, even with a 3-500 dollar parts car, add replacing old gaskets seals Hoses overhauling cooling system alternator etc etc etc, another wreck outside my house, it's not really worth it in the end. Then to add power you have to boost an older iron sleeved aluminium block or go h22a that sits way too low so needs custom mounts plus many parts are only shared with one gen of accord plus there's bugger all aftermarket support, It pains me to scrap it but I'm going to keep my wheels and some other bits... Plus I can get my GF8 sorted out faster. Broke with two semi/not reliable cars is worse than kinda broke but with a reliable, sorted fun car in my opinion. So I'm looking for something manual, preferably lowish kms, and under 1800cc, N/A. 4x100 stud pattern suits as I'll use my Prelude wheels.. Yearly wofs sound good but older more nicer for revving/mods 😉 Was gonna go for a scooter, but too many Chinese copies, quality stuff a bit upper budget plus all safety gear, 125cc bike sounded good but I'd probably fail in the rain, plus I like picking up parts. Though if a decent BC/BF/BG/BH/GC is available I may go with that.. Naturally aspirated, povo spec of course 😊

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/steering/listing/2669211019?member_hash=1c062105aafd6066b75377335fe791ae135a2d3e26c94aae83&tm=email&et=46&mt=986A3F3B-CB07-4950-9DD2-B99CAB03372C FYI when link expires, Jap Spares selling a tatty nardi gc/gf steering wheel for $345. Knew it was their listing before I even checked.

Big dredge but this! From memory intake turbo pipe is approx 80 nzd from Amayama for v1/2 wrx, ic is about 220 but surely something can be made up and adapted to the odd shaped flanges. I have a bit of hesitation off boost but no big leaks according to boost gauge, but I know these pipes on my car are end of life.