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Hayks

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Everything posted by Hayks

  1. Hey guys recently installed an S402 STi wing on our legacy and im trying to find a part number for the small decal on the wing itself? Ive looked everywhere on the interwebs and can barely even find a picture of said decal! I know the wing had one because i had to sand the original off while getting the wing painted! Any help would be appreciated!
  2. Hmm i wonder how i can get around this then? I cant delete abs since thats how the ecu see’s speed input, i wonder if the ecu can be coded to only use the front hubs as speed sensors and have only front abs? Another option is a custom r200 skyline/silvia conversion in the rear but thats custob drive shaft and axles (depending if i used the original arms). There must be some way surely that i can have some stronger rear axles! Id say even if i went to custom rear axles to suit the rear r160 hubs the thickness of the outer cv spline itself would limit its strength. Coming from a background of hondas, anything b series and NON 98 spec all cvs (outers) are a 32mm hub nut classed as small spline and then the 98 spec ones were 36mm. Even after market 32mm ones have been broken but never seemed to brake the 36mm. So guessing having ALOT more torque in the baru they wouldnt last long!
  3. Hi all been toying with some out-of-it ideas in my head for the long term plan of my legacy. Im planning on trying to make a bit of an STi cross legacy haha. Plans are eventually to score a full GRB engine (hopefully with a run bearing so i can use a brand new V7 short block) and slap it in the LGT. I want to retain the factory dual AVCS but have the option of more head parts available (cams ect ect). Also the intake manifold since it uses the drive by wire throttle already and flip the intake. Also would naturally convert to 6 speed (fuuu 5 speeds!). But heres were it will get a little more interesting, i would like to convert the 6 speed to full time RWD using a watanabe services spool from RHD japan. This is all simple enough BUT as im sure most are aware, even though the factory 6mt rear end for the LGT uses the bigger R180 rear diff, your still left stuck with the very average r160 hubs and outer CV’s. My question is, since the GRB has a multilink rear suspension set up, like the LGT. Can the GRB rear subframe (or even rear hubs only) be swapped in to have the beefier axles ect? I feel this is a pretty out there question and may not happen for a couple years (new house life), but id be really keen to give this a go! Ive always wanted to try drifting haha but hate nissan and toyota tax. Any sugestions/info would be wicked!
  4. My legacy has a subtech down pipe and FGK Super Legalis R rear mufflers with stock mid section and if im honest its not overly loud at all. Has a nice exhaust tone. The only time its loud-ish is when your up it or cold start. Otherwise i think its pretty quiet. The gains alone from just a down pipe rear mufflers and a high flow panel filter are HUGE over my other stock one. The turbo spools around 800rpm earlier (1.1 bar boost by 2400rpm) compared to the stock one on the same boost. It also gets (close to if not more than) 200km per tank of fuel over the stock one!
  5. Sorry if this is another boob question but if i plan to do some track days what caster angle should i be aiming for? As obviously the spec c has more then a normal V7/8 STi so must help a fair bit?
  6. Hey guys sorry for the noob question tried searching but to no avail. Would anyone know how much caster these cars are meant to have? Went for an alignment and sheet says I have 6.05 degrees? I thought the STi spec c only had 5 degrees?
  7. Only wanted another 10mm in the rear and actually as it is it handles amazingly! And that’s coming from having multiple Integra Type R’s with multiple suspension combos! Cheers man I love it aye, and na no issues coz both sets of rims have a 225/45 17 on them!
  8. This is how the car sits bottomed out in the rear with the insert wound all the way into the bottom cup in the rear and the rear spring only just captive on 17x8 front and 17x9 rear
  9. Wondering if anyone else on here has XYZ adjustables in there BL/BP and wondering how low they go? Mine doesn’t seem to be very low in the rear and they are wound all the way down
  10. Looks like theres some pretty trick set ups in this thread! This is the set up on my mrs 05 BL5 GT B4 5 speed. Has a divorced 2.5” down pipe removed catalytic converter stock mid pipe to Fugitsobu Legalis Super R rear mufflers. This set up i find is really nice for a daily driver, its got a nice quiet but still there tone on idle and its fairly quiet just normal driving but once you stand on the loud pedal! Oh does she sound good! Not overly loud not tiny but a nice deep barp kinda sound! Imho its one of the best sounding subaru exhausts ive heard!
  11. Hey all orrt if i rubbed people up the wrong way, and sorry for my bad way of explaining things. I have trouble with wording things appropriately when explaining them. Anyhow i got the issues sorted figured out my fuel pressure was miles high (65psi) and weirdly wouldnt run unless it was above 50 and wouldn’t actually rev or have half decent throttle response unless it was over 75psi. I had installed a Sard fuel pressure regulator and then turned to another stock ecu which once installed and the fuel pressure lowered made the car almost perfect! Im thinking the original ecu had been reflashed as the fuel pump was flowing to much for the stock regulator to bypass. Still not running 100% perfect but im sure its because of the blow off valve. Anyways thanks for all the input guys been a long time chasing this issue!
  12. Holy F*** this forums worse then honda ones. If you cant respect the my wishes of using a boost tap FOR THE TIME BEING then whats the point in modifying a car at all? Seems like OEM is best in all cases here? My boost solenoid has had it. I couldnt afford to replace it so i used a boost tap from a mate for probably 500kms of driving. Now its off the road. Selling the original bottom end buying a brand new crate short block and re freshing my heads awaiting tune. Where i will Be replacing the boost solenoid with an aftermarket 3port item. If you cant respect that then please delete me as a user.
  13. Yup i know theres a fualt, its getting sorted with a tune. Came here to ask for help not be lectured by people who are unhappy with the way i chose to controll my boost temporarily till it gets tuned. The boost solenoid is fualty and its getting replaced when it goes to auckland. Thanks.
  14. FYI it did alot. Full boost at 3500rpm and is running solidly now at 17psi. Also if it was an exhaust leak i think id hear it lol. Thanks.
  15. So why would my boost be coming on super slowly? It doesnt have full boost till 6000rpm. The ecu earths may be a little dodgy as the car stutters intermittently. Since getting it running properly again it has thrown the map sensor code afew times but i have replaced the map with a known good one off a running car. But the CEL has not come on for 2-3 days now
  16. Yep what im currently doing aswell!
  17. Traced my wireing and seems as though only the short plug harbess from the avcs sensors have oil in them. Theres nothing in other sensors nor in the chassis plug. There was only a build up of oil in my coolant temp sensor which someone had dodgied up before hand aswell (broken plug clip and stripped esposed wires with solder on them
  18. Bleed valve, peak boost is 18 psi and usually around 15 constantly. Apparently not tuned, supposedly the pridrive had the cat removed from factory (but probably wrong) boost no longer ramps with the bleed valve o2 sensor code is fone but instantly threw coolant temp sensor once o2 was replaced (never touched it). Car missfires and pops (what sounds like in the intake) when i rev it.
  19. Hi guys ive had a lot of issues with my V7 STI lately. Started off with a hesitation before boost. Cleaned air filter (was oiled) and put new plugs in the car. Fixed that issue. Was also ramping boost as rpm got higher and was super lazy coming onto boost. Simple boost tap (bypass the boost solenoid) fixed that issue. Was running really well for all of 3 hours then it threw a map sensor code, no worries chucked another in. Thinking sweet all should be fine next thing i know CEL bank 1 map sensor faulty (code 139).. ok strange replace that with a known good second hand one codes gone and now the car literally first start after replacing the o2 sensor has thrown code 128!? Coolant temp sensor and runs like an absolute bag of S***! Seriously cant catch a break! Has anyone else had this issue? Coz i swear I’m gonna replace every single sensor before it actually runs half decently... i payed probably more then i should have for the car and now its costing me a S*** tonne in extras and I’m starting to get over it FAST. Can someone shine some light please? Or lend a hand? Or there car? Please!
  20. Made some progress, new plugs helped another AFM helped aswell but i found my bov is only opening somtimes and when it does open there is no hesitation at all and drives fine but when it doesnt it stutters
  21. Oh so they run a different flange? I dodnt know that
  22. Has no cats unless theres one in the up pipe? Im going to replace the stock up pipe and extractors with a twin scroll set up off a BL/BP legacy in the near future.
  23. Plugs getting done tonight 👍🏽 Will see how that goes if still not good then ill try sorce some coil packs. Anyone have any ideas on the lazy spooling of the turbo? No blown out gaskets so im wondering if the turbos worn out of tollerance?
  24. Na speedo climbs a fair bit slower then my old Type R integra did, oil is fresh fuel is fresh fuel filter is fresh
  25. Hi all recently bought myself a new project, 02 STI prodrive and it drives amazingly handles well but its just missing the pull that i know it should have. At the moment its alot slower then my mrs BL5 GT on 17PSI. (The legacy is pretty quick for a legacy though) but it also feels abit lazy coming onto boost (lagy) and at part throttle has a hesitation around 3-4500rpm then starts to come online up over 4500rpm. Im going to chuck a boost gauge into the car to see what its running and i have checked for boost and vacuum leaks and tried another AFM. The plugs do need doing as far as im aware so will do those asap! Any ideas on what could be happening?
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