Loren
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Posts posted by Loren
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5 or 6 speed? I'm pretty sure i have a 5 speed flywheel lying around.
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just do whatever makes the car seem happier... the clutch is fine with slipping a bit at low revs.
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I'm no AVCS expert but I know it's operated via oil pressure... maybe it needs some constant oil pressure to take up some slack in it's mechanism?
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yeah they are important... once you find one, make sure the spacing is correct... too big of a gap and it won't prevent a jump... too small and heat builds up and damages the belt.
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Usually you would have a belt guard above the crank pulley to prevent the belt from jumping... is it just off for checking the position of the belt, or is it missing?
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4 minutes ago, Subru said:
I talked to Alastair at Macbilt again and he confirmed it was off by a tooth and the belt was likley changed without a new tensioner or idlers. He said a new timing belt kit will likley fix it noise.
It definitly feels slow to boost and low power down low due to timing being out.
I don't disagree with any of that... I just don't think that noise would be caused by the belt being out by one tooth. I certainly WOULD be changing the belt, tensioner, all the idlers and water pump though.
4 minutes ago, Subru said:I don't think the exhaust wheels is fouling on the intake wheel, just looks like it due to the angle of photo. I'll double check that later tho.
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The timing belt being off by one tooth with not make a noise... the engine just won't run quite right.
But the exhaust wheel fouling on the intake wheel will likely cause a bit of a noise... as in the last picture.
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ej207 is generally
inlet 0.20 +/- 0.02
exhaust 0.25 +/- 0.02
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The manifold is never very hot to touch though... so can't be that much heat going into them.
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Better disks won't help much if you are putting too much heat into them... you need ducting or bigger disks or both. You also need to follow proper warm up and (more importantly) cool down procedures.
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13 minutes ago, boon said:
I'm gonna be a pest and say it's probably too restrictive for 250wkw, from memory those Genomes aren't big mufflers, like.... 2.25" or something. I had a 2.5" Zerosports on mine and it became a limitation over about 230wkw.
So you couldn't make more than 230kw... and you swapped the rear muffler only, and then you were able to make more than 230kw?
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extremely unlikely to be too restrictive.
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For a road car I would just put it on and forget. If you will be going to the track, a dyno check is probably a good idea... won't need a tune I bet, just a safe check... shouldn't cost much more than the dyno bolt up cost.
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I've made header, up pipe and down pipe shields with the stuff from pro wholesale... still have my down pipe shielded with that... is hard work though.
You will need loads of steel cable ties and a good cable tie tool.
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Cardwells usually have the good stuff. https://cardwells.co.nz/heatshield-products-exhaust-wrap.html
Come to think of it Road and Track have the good stuff too I think.
It's all pretty temporary though tbh... no matter how expensive.
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Brand new turbo from a local trustworthy supplier sounds like a win to me.
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6 hours ago, ginganinja said:
I have spoken with Diesel and turbo in wellington and just found out some further information. IHI build a VF48 Performance which has a larger billet compressor wheel compared to the standard VF48. It is similar size to the VF22 possibly bigger. But it is a journal bearing turbo. So that could be another option for a late model factory turbo.
https://www.ihi.co.jp/itsj/en/products/high_performance/vf48/
very nice. should come in a bit under $2000 delivered from full-race. Did Diesel and Turbo have a price?
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2 hours ago, ginganinja said:
If not the VF22. out of interest what would you recommend for around 230-250kw.
I personally don't think any VF turbo will make that power... not on your motor in any case. If I was you I would be looking for the most modern VF bolt on turbo available.
I would say you'll get better spool, better mid range torque and... probably be just as good up top... and if it's slightly less up top... who cares as it's a tiny little turbo that dies rapidly past 6500 rpm anyway.
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I am guessing a ~5353 means the internals of a vf53 into the housing of a vf48... why do that? no f***en idea. crack possibly.
Don't get a vf22... it's OLD OLD OLD.
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AA for road cars. Classic Cover for other cars.
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Go to Diesel and Turbo on Waione Street and see what the best price they could on a new VF turbo is. I know someone that
paid a lot less than $2000 for a new VF36 recently.
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1 hour ago, ginganinja said:
Given earlier you were mentioning a big turbo running at low boost is going to make the car feel like a na V8, is the reason I am wary of going to a turbo that big. But thinking something a touch smaller maybe more what I'm after.
what's wrong with a V8?
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2 hours ago, ginganinja said:
Its a for a road car and I enjoy how the VF22 performs so ideally would want similar response as that, and I'm guessing the 2867 would do that but also have a little bit more up top.
Surely you want it to perform a lot better for it to be worth all the money? I think the 2867 will s*** all over the vf22 anyway.
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Are you going to be more disappointed if it's a bit laggy or more if it's a bit underwhelming when spooled?
Personally I would go for bigger... and be prepared to work hard to keep it spooled. But that's for a race car. Road car, go small and it will be way more fun.
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Rear wheel bearing removal
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