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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Seems about right... it's a risky proposition for the buyer of course.
  2. So a complete drop in motor? must be worth a bit.
  3. Well technically speaking you didn't change the bearing... you just swapped out the whole hub
  4. Loren


    Just top up the fluid... probably fix it.
  5. Third generation? Surely it's way more than that... how is it different to the current WRX?
  6. That is a good question. I don't know what spec the current cams are. They came in the car... no markings and are a bit on the weird side. Without dialling them in they caused #2/#4 to run very lean, and #1/#3 to run very rich. It lead to a great deal of head scratching to figure it out before I had adjustable cam gears. Once dialled in, that problem was solved to a degree, but they are still just bad. Good power once spooled (at 5k rpm)... but s*** everywhere else. Very sluggish to get off idle... chronic fuel smell at idle... chronic fuel consumption all round. They are not high lift because the heads haven't been modified to fit them and there is plenty of clearance... but I think they have a moderately large duration and a s*** load of overlap. New cams are Kelford 199-j... short duration, high lift and almost no overlap. Should be night and day.
  7. New cams and springs arrived... hoping to go from very sluggish low and mid range performance to awesome.
  8. Possibly but they have different heads, so probably be a few road blocks.
  9. Or you could buy a running wrecker motor and pull it apart and refresh at your leisure... and then hopefully by the time your motor goes... you have a drop in replacement. If your motor does not blow... you have a motor up your sleeve to sell if you decide to sell the car. That's potentially a lot of money sitting around in your garage doing nothing though... might be better in an investment fund.
  10. I have used a new sti short block in the past. Also rebuilt once and in the process of doing that again. The first motor I blew was a stock standard v5 sti motor... so the replacement sti short block was a no brainer for me. The second motor had forged internals... so rebuilding is the only option really. Forged crate motors are way way too expensive. 5k is not realistic for either of theses options. If you are doing everything properly and using a mechanic... up to 10k is more realistic.
  11. It will probably come right back on... you hadn't actually said what problems you had previously though. A small work around might be to adjust the throttle so that it's open very slightly... there's a small adjustment screw just under where the throttle cable attaches. It might mean the ICV has a bit less work to do and might improve things a bit.
  12. Are you actually having idle control problems or have just found an error code relating to the ICV? If you aren't having idle problems then maybe it's an old code... clear it and see if it comes back.
  13. One scrape and your life is over. Why do we do it to ourselves?
  14. Lucky you... I managed a full loom de-wire / re-wire last lock down... this year all I can think of is tidying up the jack points on the sills. The engine is out for a rebuild and I possibly need a new turbo, so I can't even do any online shopping
  15. Have you tried it? You can always just read the codes from the dash... rather than try and connect a device.
  16. They look very nice.. lots of people could make something just as nice locally.
  17. What don't you like about them? I had one of their 3 inch downpipes once... what annoyed the hell out of me was that it wasn't designed to fit with the existing oem mid pipe... they made it about an inch too short and put the flange on a different angle. Infuriating. It was also was made from mild steel which was covered in surface rust in a short period of time.
  18. I know someone that just imported a set of used struts from the US. Good price and very good condition when they turned up. https://www.rockauto.com/ Hard to find anything not shagged in NZ... rebuilding shocks costs more than buying new KYBs.
  19. How do you know the misfire is on 4? Do you think it's lean all the time or just on boost? Lot's of oil in the intercooler is to be expected if you had a broken ring land as all the extra blow by goes straight back into the intake system.
  20. What you got? Rear subframe lock kit... and?
  21. oh you have coil on plug.. I always forget that... removes one possible source of a misfire. Was the cause of the first engine failure ever diagnosed? Like was it detonating or running lean... and has that been fixed?
  22. Up to you... your money. The rears don't get a lot of heat compared to the front, so some repco replacements will probably be fine.
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