Loren
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Posts posted by Loren
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You can upgrade the bushes all round and get a roll center adjustment kit and anti lift kit for the front, but it doesn't sound like you are quite ready for any of that yet.
Good coil overs, setup correctly and a good wheel alignment should keep you happy for a while.
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Yes it looks good now... borderline dodgy only.
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XYZ are a lot better and around the same price.
No reason the replace the tie rod ends unless they have play. What would you replace your control arms with?
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I managed to get the right torque on it just by putting it in 3rd with the handbrake on.
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Any lower will look retarded and F*** your handling up.
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10 hours ago, BMCracer said:
You do know they aren't welded, right? They have a spool with replaces the whole diff centre.
I don't think Sam meant that they actually took a diff and welded it up like a school boy drifter... but the end result is the same.
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35 minutes ago, Shibe said:
Castrol is usually what I have my eye on. So the 40 really won't be too much different than the 30? Just that my cars mileage is getting up there so its probably a better idea to run 40?
Damn I never knew oil could get to technical
Modern oils are very high tech... forget about understanding them before you get your Chemistry PhD :0
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13 minutes ago, GC8E2DD said:
Wash your mouth out!
What about about twin scroll from new? With the filthy equal length headers?
(edited for bigger flame)
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14 hours ago, pl0x said:
I suspect that low power reading would have been done after back to back runs to show how much power it makes once the top mount intercooler is heat soaked already, so the 35kw increase possibly isn't as good as it sounds. More that with a FMIC it can actually maintain that power, not degrade pull after pull.
Yes, I raced this car a couple of times in March and pretty sure he said he had closer to 270.
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27 minutes ago, Gripless said:
Not saying both numbers don't mean anything.
But it is the additives the provide the wear protection and how many other things are in the oil.
and for that matter aren't additives what enables multi grade oil in the first place.
Things like race oils have less detergent and need changing more often.
otherwise why get synthetic brand name oil and not cheap unbranded stuff?
having said that I've seen wear testing where Mobil 1 got beaten by the cheaper Mobil super 1 but then it may rate better in other types of test.
Oil unfortunately is more complex than most people can understand and the internet is jam packed with misinformation.
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12 minutes ago, Gripless said:
Hmm I though it was 100 degrees F not C.
my bad
lols... it doesn't really matter... the point is that both numbers mean something... and it's not just down to the umm quality and umm the specific additives etc
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yes, 5w40 will be good. Just get what ever oil you want... semi or full synthetic. He's probably saying semi-synthetic because that's what would have gone
in there when it was new and if you are changing the oil at the right intervals it will be perfectly fine.
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20 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
$15.50 each for 10 including shipping for the part number I used. Would never make an order for just oil filters though. There’s normally a bunch of other things that drops the individual item shipping cost a fair bit
Is $20 trade price at Subaru or something? Sure the one time I got one from there it was more than that.
Possibly it's trade price...
1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:Err.. What?
First number is viscosity when cold, second is when at 100 degrees.
So when boosting the S*** out of a high KM engine you’ll potentially want a higher second number as clearances won’t be to factory spec anymore.
Or have I just been misunderstanding things for like forever??...
lols... no you are correct.
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1 hour ago, TNHSTI said:
Also agree the oem filters are $9.00NZD +14.42 for Freight which makes even buying 1 filter pretty cheap! if you bought 10x youd be looking around $4.50 per filter! pretty awesome price for an OEM Filter
Wow, are you paying so much for filters that $23.42 is cheap? I only pay $20. And you know the shipping goes up with each item right?
6 filters plus crush washers is 108 NZD... that $18 for one filter and washer, so not amazingly cheap.
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5w40 or 10w40 with those kms.
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This car uses stock equal length headers at 800hp... the only headers that they could find that wouldn't crack.
http://www.driven.co.nz/news/lifestyle/alister-mcrae-wins-second-straight-leadfoot-title/
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Just a side note about flex fuel... it's a compromise because to get the most out of e85 you would run a much higher static compression ratio...
so only a trailered car will be able to get the most out of it IMO.
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I only have 800cc injectors and running over 300kw rich as, no problem.. that's with bp98.
Definitely will go to e85 at some point, but not power limited at the moment... courage limited.
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2 hours ago, Saleti said:
Ok Thanks,
How reliable is E85 and the $$$ of conversion?
Reliable?
E85 is no good for a road car due to availability and cost. You would need a flex fuel setup so you could still run regular fuel.
You will probably need a bigger fuel pump and injectors... plus a sensor to detect the fuel/e85 mixture and an appropriate
input into the ecu to allow it to adjust the tune on the fly.
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What kind of S***? metal fillings?
You can buy them from Subaru... though they are nothing special... just a plug.
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21 minutes ago, Dairusire said:
Lol what. Did you pay for those parts?
Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
Yes, twice He wasn't going to let it go... and it was just two oil filters with a total value of about $40, so wasn't worth standing my ground for too long.
I just won't go back there.
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Got it serviced. Was a bit annoyed that the mechanic charged me for parts that I supplied to him. His proof that I didn't supply them was that the box that had all the supplied parts in was empty... once the service had been complete.
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Apologies... I have never heard of shimming a viscous diff and as above, can't see how it will be effective.
It will either just mash the spider gears together or possibly the viscous housing is a little bit flexible and
it will put the fluid under a small amount of pressure... but seems like a futile exercise to me :0
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Best Coilovers for street/track later on
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
MCA are good... a bit more expensive than BC and XYZ.
I have had both BC and XYZ and they are very different... I don't believe any stories about the cheaper shocks all coming from the
same factory as it's just bullshit propagated by people selling more expensive stuff.