Loren
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Posts posted by Loren
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A proper LSD would obviously be better though... and you'd need to change your driving style quite a bit for a locked diff I think.
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51 minutes ago, boostin said:
Hard to finish a race with a snapped axle. Even a tight mechanical lsd has some give. A welded different doesn't. And where he may have been getting 4 races out of a set of semis, that may now only be 3. It's something to consider, and up to him to decide if the risk and costs are worth it to him. You can help, or you can be a cock.
lol, I don't think anyone one is insisting that he weld the diff up
I also think you are exaggerating the wear factor by quite a lot. The rear tyres get bugger all wear compared to the front, as 60% of
the weight is at the front, 60% of the torque is at the front for a non dccd gearbox, and they do all the turning.
The car will be more stable and more predictable in oversteer situations. It will feel more planted and give the driver the confidence
to push harder and go faster.
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On 26/04/2018 at 2:50 PM, SpeedySub said:
I brought some nice fresh roasted and ground Guatemalan Coffee in my car for a few hours after picking it up, car smelt delicious
Is that you Doctor Ropata?
I bought the WRX a Davies Craig EWP and booked the Legacy in for a 100000 km service.
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It would be a definite improvement
Alistair McRae won the Leadfoot festival twice with welded center and rear diff
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Yeah diffs are expensive... rebuilding them is expensive too.
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Shimming only works on plated diffs. Throw it out and get a Cusco plated diff to go in there.
Putting a thicker oil in there might help a bit, but the key problem is that these diffs don't lock
when torque is applied.
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Wow old thread. I know a guy with a new Ford Focus RS which has similar tech... he was driving down the street and came up to a car that was parked, but not very well... and the RS slammed the brakes on so hard the belts caused bruising.
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Got my first notice today.
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It doesn't sound like you are very committed... just wait until you are ready to spend a decent amount of money on what you really want.
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The inlet size is going to hurt... 2 inch vs 4 inch! But also, I can't help thinking that the stock location turbos are designed to spool faster
and give a more stock like feel, but with extra power? It would be a bit of a shock for most people... though the yanks have 2.5 litres anyway, so maybe not such an issue.
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I thought it was common knowledge that the stock location equivalents were much smaller and therefore not the real deal? Maybe I'm just a clever clogs.
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Just make sure it's serviced regularly... warmed up before getting on the boost or revving the S*** out of it... and then drive it like you stole it.. it will be fine.
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Clean the inside of the windscreen (rainex anti-fog)... replaced the front wiper blades... removed the rear wiper assembly (bit of weight reduction)...
took an angle grinder to the jack holder (to make a bit more space)... packed it with racing wheels/tyres and tools etc ready for sprint tomorrow...
updated ECU logging profile... checked oil level, put 0.5 a litre in... bought some more oil... earlier in the week I had the front bumper opened up
to allow more air to get through the intercooler and radiator and added shrouding.
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Manuals do suck for bumper to bumper, start/stop driving... autos suck a lot more for everything else though.
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Do you want reliability or a sh1t tonne more power? They generally don't go hand in hand.
There is no cheap or easy way top get an extra 100 kw out of a naturally aspirated engine.
The 3.0r has plenty of torque and power (no way it has 260kw at the flywheel though)... just drive it stock for a while and enjoy it.
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40 minutes ago, GC8E2DD said:
What do you mean 'you think shrouds have been added'. Did you drop it off at Al's and say 'fix it'?
Yes, doing too much of that recently, but I have no time and no decent workspace and am sick of missing out on racing.
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24 minutes ago, Gripless said:
@Loren yeah surprised how bad, but it's basically making the fire wall a speaker cone.
Sounds good to me... the more mechanical noise the better
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Might have been something very simple it turns out... the radiator cap not holding bugger all pressure
I've had the turbo water system separated out anyway and I think some radiator shrouds have been added.
There is a short hillclimb on Sunday so it should be obvious if an improvement has been made.
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All this talk about a pitch stopper. What is the world coming to? Solid engine mounts, gearbox mounts and rear diff mounts are noisy.
A pitch stopper though?
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7 hours ago, pl0x said:
Unsure how true, but have read people say when it's high revving all the time you need to slow the water down through the rad (rather than speed up - drilling thermostat). Obviously you had an issue prior to drilling though so not actually any help.
Depends what you read... the cavitation problem is not supposed to be bad with the JDM water pumps... the USDM pumps which are fitted to lower revving
2.5 litre motors are worse.
If fixing the air flow through the radiator and adding a separate radiator for the turbo doesn't work, replacing the main radiator will be next.
If there are still problems, maybe an electric pump and/or get the tune checked... maybe taking some timing out will help, but I'm not
keen on losing power :0
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55 minutes ago, BriteLites said:
So its only getting hot under high load competition driving but not on dyno? and cools down when you stop driving? thats odd becuase you have more airflow whilst competing and none standing still other than fan? weird will be interested to hear what you find.
That's correct... I guess the dyno isn't as intensive as competition driving. Plenty of recovery time between power runs while things are checked and adjustments are made. I have a laggy turbo so need to keep the revs at or above 5000 at all times... can't help things.
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5 hours ago, Dairusire said:
mmmmm you shouldn't be having the troubles your experiencing.
For furzes car, which is 300kw, and me absolutely banging on it like a bongo drum at Ruapuna for 15 minutes or so, temp never batted an eye when it came to Water temps. Though a big difference to be fair, is the Holset isn't watercooled.
Have you checked your heater core btw?
Turbo makes a big difference... core hasn't been checked, though there are no cold spots and the radiator cools things down pretty quick once I've stopped driving. Also, no heat problems on the dyno and never any problems for road driving. If the secondary radiator, shrouding, oil cooler and mo cool don't help, I'll look at the main radiator. I would have looked at it before putting the secondary radiator in, but macbilt have said the secondary radiator for the turbo has been required on all their WRX race cars.
5 hours ago, boostin said:Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.
It's a new genuine Subaru 78 degree thermo... bottom pipe gets hot at the right temp.
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I've changed the coolant a couple of times and tried watering it down more... also just put some mo cool in.
I've drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat... I was told it would flow earlier and a bit better, but it didn't
really help. Oil cooler didn't help much either.
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Sounds like I'm having more trouble than anyone on here then
113 degrees C with just a 5km hillclimb.
I will put some shrouding around the radiator... macbilt think my radiator is a bit small due to the sides being trimmed to accomodate the fmic piping
and think a motorcylcle radiator added under the hood scoop might fix the problem.
113 degrees C with just a 5km hillclimb.
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted · Edited by Loren
I removed the water pump cut the impeller off, gutted the thermostat and replaced pump. Next to fit a temp sensor to
the inlet elbow and refit cambelt etc.