Loren
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Posts posted by Loren
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Up to you... your money.
The rears don't get a lot of heat compared to the front, so some repco replacements will probably be fine.
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Spark leads?
No point doing a leakage test if the compression is even across all cylinders.
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1 hour ago, ginganinja said:
Is your cat back a custom made one or off the shelf item?
Still leaning towards something either more stock looking or Group A style. The HKS sits a little low and is a little big for my liking. Although it sounds great and flows great.
Looks like stock mid section and off the shelf rear section and muffler... both have been hacked since I've had it. It sits nice and high like a stock exhaust.
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QuoteI had a GFB short shifter on mine... was terrible... you lose precision... can't tell when it's in gear properly... can 't tell what gear it's in... can easily change into the wrong gear. Hated it
Can you elaborate on how you lose precision? Most reviews I read and watch on YT with a Kartboy/Bushing combo or CObb/Bushing Combo speak about how much more precise and great the shifter feels.
You lose precision because all the distances are smaller.... imagine the extreme case where the distance between 1st and 2nd was only 1 cm... and the distance between 1st and 3rd was only 5mm.
Your ability to judge the position of each gear is diminished... your ability to tell when it's properly engaged is diminished... and your feel for if you are lining up each change correctly, is also diminished.
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1 hour ago, Bugle said:
You can order a 'crate' 207 short block direct from Subaru? (or buy a spec c with a 207 from factory 🤣 )
A much better idea as it it doesn't sound like any extra power is wanted. I have done this in the past.
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1 hour ago, Cullen said:
I'm assuming Loren was joking with that laugh react thrown in??
I wasn't joking... it's a lot of work. Any shortcuts taken are at your peril. The heads might not need decking. If you have all the lifter clearances checked and they are good
(they won't be) you won't need to do that... but valve seals are cheap, so you'd be crazy not to do it as the heads have to be off the car to replace them. As for rocker
cover oil seals... cheap compared to everything else, and who wants their brand new engine leaking oil?
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You'll need a mechanic that can work out the correct head gasket thickness to ensure the compression ratio is correct... and that you don't get any valve to piston collisions.
If those two things are all good, then it should be a fairly straight forward process... and no tuning should be required. Oh and your heads might need decking... which will
increase the cost... plus you'd most likely want to have all the valve seals replaced and all the clearances set. You may as well renew the clutch while the motor is out too.
Oh and all the oil seals for the rocker covers and cams will need replacing. Probably a new cambelt and all the idlers and the tensioner etc. Also looks like the RCM short blocks
don't come with an oil pump or water pump.
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I had a GFB short shifter on mine... was terrible... you lose precision... can't tell when it's in gear properly... can 't tell what gear it's in... can easily change into the wrong gear. Hated it.
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All the whiteline stuff is fine IMO... never noticed much of an increase in nvh with any of their stuff.
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If it's not overheating, keep up the beating.
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8 hours ago, ginganinja said:
RPG Carbon does one similar too in either carbon fibre or FRP.
I am guessing that Genuine OEM V7 ones are different shape/ different mounting points to fit the gc8 bonnet.
Be aware that RPG carbon are a Taiwanese company pretending to be in the U.S and they charge U.S. prices. The quality is ok though... not mind blowing, but not terrible.
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Yes the strut, shock and spring are one unit. You need to buy a new strut and swap over the spring and top hat... and if the new strut doesn't come with bump stops,
then put those on too. I have no idea what spec shocks you have in your car.
You don't really need an special tools for this work apart from spring compressors... I don't think you should attempt it though.
I suggest that you ask them for a breakdown of costs, then you know what you are pay for parts and labour... I'd say it's only 3 to 4 hours work,
but the dealers tend to charge for more labour than they need. Ask them if a wheel alignment is included in their quote too.
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Why do people go to the dealership? I don't understand.
Though 1200 to 1500 doesn't sound all the bad.
The shocks you use will have a big influence on the cost I'd say.
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Only difference I can think of might be ABS vs none-ABS. You can use hubs with ABS rings on a none ABS car... but not vice versa.
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2 hours ago, Subru said:
Even with just new EL headers?
Don't you have a new turbo ?
2 hours ago, pl0x said:I reckon it'll spool a bit better even twin scroll header to single scroll turbo. I wouldn't be boosting it to much, probably would be fine but not worth risking imo
I reckon it's a coin toss.
The single scroll has the advantage of shorter header pipes on cylinder 1 and 3... that helps spool. Mainly talking about stock unequal length headers here... aftermarket aren't as tight.
The twin scroll have the advantage of no interfering pulses and better flow up top.
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Don't boost it without a dyno check first... you don't know for sure that it won't knock, and that will kill your motor within the blink of an eye.
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1 hour ago, ginganinja said:
Cool as. So it likely has a smooth transition from 3 inch to 2.5in in the mid pipe. Think I might look at doing the same and get something made up.
It must be smooth because I only just found out it wasn't 3 inch the hole way a few weeks ago when I got a different muffler put on.
I've had the car for 5 years and spent a great deal of time under it.
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3 minutes ago, ginganinja said:
Sweet. Thats what I wanted to hear. I'm not going to be pushing any more than that 230kw mark.
Out of interest does your downpipe itself reduce to 63mm? Or do you have the mid pipe just bolting directly to the downpipe.
You running stock STI rear muffler too?
The downpipe is all 3 inch.I don't know if the mid section is stock or not, but it's 63mm with a small 3 inch section where the first resonator once was... second resonator is still present.
The rear section is also 63mm... not the stock muffler.
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My system is 3 inch downpipe into whatever the stock STi size is... 63mm? It works @ 300kw.
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Looks more like oil pooling in one of the heads and pouring out of the breather, right into you turbo. Did you go to Manfeild before the catch can went in?
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Definitely not the best bang for your buck mod you could do... I only did it because I needed new headers.
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26 minutes ago, Subru said:
Okay. Subaru EL headers definitly way cheaper then a good set of aftermarket ones and won't crack. So the twin scroll uppipe must be able to bolt onto single scroll turbos?
I might look into this. My tune and everything is still a month away.
Well you have to find some first... legacy headers are easy to get, but they have narrower pipes at the exhaust port side.
I had to import mine because no one had any in NZ... at least no one was selling them!
Once you have paid for the sump, headers/up pipe, shipping and had the turbo flange modified, you might be spending about the same or more than good aftermarket headers.
in my opinion you don't need to hold up the tune for these headers... you can get your tune... change the headers later, and if you are worried just get the tune checked and tweaked if it even needs it.
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5 minutes ago, Subru said:
Ok good to hear. I do hear a lot of people like the way they sound.
So what brand headers did you use?
If you used twin scroll headers does that mean you had to change out the sump etc?
I used Subaru v9 STi headers... they are purportedly better than most or all off the shelf aftermarket headers.You have to change the sump and dipstick... oh and the oil pickup and possibly the windage tray... I don't remember changing that though.
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I have... better spool and torque, it's true. Not huge gains on paper, but the butt dyno notices.
I have a twin scroll up pipe too... that would be important I think... need to keep the pulses separate all the way to the turbo.
I prefer the sound too. The rumble just makes me look around for where the boy racer is these days
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Misfire cylinder 4 ej207 (solved)
in Engine Related
Posted
oh you have coil on plug.. I always forget that... removes one possible source of a misfire.
Was the cause of the first engine failure ever diagnosed? Like was it detonating or running lean... and has that been fixed?