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Gripless

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Posts posted by Gripless

  1. Sounds like #2 is dead and engine is blown.

    could be rings, piston or bore.

    unlike to be valve train if the oil came out the dip stick. Pressure would escape the easiest way.

     

    even rod snapped, not sure what Subaru sounds like with those but on inline engine its pretty loud, you can’t miss it.

     

    piston could have cracked around the rings and leak pretty badly.

    Melted piston would be least amount of damage and s*** in the engine.

     

    Borrow or buy a flexible camera and stick it through the spark plug hole.

    With piston at the bottom have a look around and you’ll likely see what it is.

     

    You could listen for the air leak from intake or exhaust ports when you leak test it, to see if the valves are sealed. PCV valve would be most likely place for the compression test air to escape.

     

    With 0 psi on #2 and all the oil in the intake etc would be worried about the cylinder imbalance at this stage.

     

    • Like 1
  2. 2 hours ago, Loren said:

     

    @Gripless You can make you own seats mounts, you don't need sliding rails. Also his brake bias has not been altered at all, so the rear brakes don't need changing.

     

     

    Yeah but stated rails.  you could use the recaro ones for LVVTA. 
    I had homemade brackets all welded in place for mine once it had full cage. But fixed seats are a pain if you share the car with different height people.

    That all goes into the cage design as well as padding. If the seat goes to far back then cage changes. That’s a whole other bit to deal with.
     

    bias is one thing power is another.
    Being awd likely no change required but never assume that stuff always ask the certifier.

    plus the drifting you may need a extra set of callipers for handbrake so all goes on the list to ask.

  3. For MSNZ the rules on cages are pretty much the same over time as it’s pretty well designed. Worst I had to do was swap belts and first cage needed a bar added. But that was over built by rally shop from day 1.


    Get a good cage that goes to strut towers and has x braces for front doors and rear from lower b pillar to rear cage c pillar or rear strut tower. adding bars later is a pig of a job.
    Good thing is since Subaru are used for rally heaps of places have old templates for them.


    don’t be afraid to splash out on safety gear and cage padding it’s worth it. Ive had a couple of close calls and that gear not only saves your life but reduces damage massively. HANS device are awesome! 


    Classes are where the rules can change, All tracks use MSNZ rules so if you have a cage with the stickers and matching documentation you’re good.

     

    You need to get a Motorsport licence so join a approved club and then apply for MSNZ licence. You have to sit a test but it’s pretty simple.

    Also clubs have so many people that can help with contacts and questions.


    read this https://www.motorsport.org.nz/licences/
     

    if you just want a cage and do club events and track days them get M

    if you want to go drifting or compete then getting C covers you for up to national events.


    I haven’t kept up with rules in ages

     

  4. Just call LVVTA certifier if that fails call LVVTA  tech department directly to get a recommendation. Most cert people are pretty good provided you don’t try and bulls*** them.

    The sooner you call the cheaper things are since you won’t get s*** internet advise and buy the wrong things.

     

    Your old cert work may get looked at again as the standards change over time. And now EJ20 again so any old changes need to be rechecked. You can’t just undo cert changes and go back to stock when you want you have to go do more paperwork and spend $.

     

    I’d be pretty upfront about that old cert to the certifier and you’ll have to trailer it around to them. Driving an illegal car to a cert place is a quick way to have a bad day.


    from past dumb s*** I’ve done.

     

    half cages are drag approved only, at race track they are counted the same as no cage, so no passengers. Drifting is likely full cage required anyway.


    You can get half cage road legal under LVVTA but it won’t help much other than chassis flex on a track. With half cage you have to unclip and remove harnesses when on the road. Only MSNZ approval works for harnesses on the road.

     

    Don’t get a bolt in harness bar they are dangerous. Even running real harnesses to the rear seat belt bolts works but the angles are very steep and a bit risky.


    harness rule change and HANS neck device rules made belt go back to 2” and cost way more. 

     

    without a cage you can’t always strip the rear as it has to many sharp bits. Though you used to be able to certify the car as 2 seater and then you could.


    seats can’t be on home made rails etc recaro are an option as they are OEM crash tested and double lock. These and harnesses are part of MSNZ assessment. The issue is seat belt clip mount is attached to the rails. If it is chassis mounted then you have more options with rails.

     

    Same with seats likely need new ones that are safety rated.


    anything that is not MSNZ or LVVTA still needs to be WOF standards.


    things I have some vague idea of

     

    you may have to resize the rear brakes as they are now having to stop 100% of the driveline power.

     

    I think redrilling cast knuckles isn’t allowed. 


    drive shaft may have to be 1 piece to get rid of center bearing depending on power etc. then you may need 2 drive shaft loops.

    • Thanks 1
  5. How bad?

    are there chunks coming out or if you lightly scratch do bits fall out.


    you can go to whitelign for more camber or bolted if you want solid 2 axis adjustment.


    if they are like most other cars even if the rubber fails the top stay captive and just knocks around.

  6. Those iag sumps are very nice.

    is it the deep one with the fins on the bottom?

    did you get the crank scraper with it?

     

    I would get one if I didn’t have 2 PBMS ones already.

    I just added the RCM plate to the sump.

     

    Oh was it bear on rod 4, seems to be a common issue.

  7. I was looking at the panel mount kit one with the lights. 

     

    11 hours ago, boon said:

    10 will be a beast. We have a couple of 5's for things that don't get used often. As mentioned, they pull off some Lazarus-grade resurrection of batteries. I've got a battery that hasn't been used for 5 years on "Recon" now, will be interesting to see if it can get it usable again.

    I just get all overkill stuff so I never have to buy twice.

    same reason I have the 1/2” Milwaukee impact driver. Though it is a fun toy on suspension bolts.

    • Like 1
  8. You have pretty much the same head setup as I have but bigger cams.

     

    At 32psi I went with the 14/12mm RCM headstuds. 14mm in the alloy block and 12mm for the stud and top thread. Saves all the hassle with heads needing drilling but same strength in the threads so the don’t tear out. 

     

  9. Does it even have abs, is there a abs pump connected up in the engine bay?

     

    You may want to start by checking the part numbers on the ECU and abs etc to see if they are from the car originally.


    the. Go checking for unconnected plugs and cut wires. 

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