Gripless

made some good progress. Can set custom rpm redline, flashing options, set brightness options etc all via webpage. Even added a light sensor so it dims based on light level. Still have plenty of work left but better than most options I’ve seen to buy. Found buttons with Icons to order for turning display on and off, as well as enable wifi web page. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006666132955.html

@Joker No-ones been able to explain the funky backwards lines but I think you can see the VOD there on the PSI chart. The plot X axis is road speed and the line from data logged over time plotted in time order, so the run started at 90kph then dipped back to 85kph likely caused by operator error, you can rule out car if you have other good plots. -Wheelspin from not being strapped down well. 1 strap and not at steep angle rushed at dyno day. Or too much power applied too quickly. -starting run and not giving it more gas so dyno load drags speed down.

Yeah I started looking at custom ones a month ago because of exactly the conclusion you came to. It’s why I posted the canbus topic. Old cars rpm reading is just counting pulses and dividing that based on the number of cylinders. Eg 2 ignition events per revolution for a 4 cylinder. Every cheap micro controller can either count pulses or the time between them so it isn’t complicated. Newer cars the ecu runs multi coil and the rpm signal is over canbus so you have to read the canbus messages and decode them. In some cases they do have a rom pulse from the dash cluster, but if you start opening dash clusters it raises flags if you ever want to verify the odometer. Over the weekend I think I have some basic canbus reading working but before I can test I need some more parts to look after the power and now waiting on an order for that.

Looking at bar design one with option of 16-40 LEDs. Dims automatically so not bright at night.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005952894041.html 3.75” one for 27 +gst shipped. for Ali add things to cart, then there are 3 small icons next to item, the first is find similar, then add to Wishlist, and remove from cart. the find similar works pretty well. Im looking at the F1 style ones with a row of LEDs that change colour until set point and then flash the whole bar.

Last week swapped rear hatch gas lift struts. Ones supplied are for newer model. turns out only need right side anyway. The side with the handle, pretty typical that side goes first. being 2cm short it makes hatch open 10-15cm less height so if you aren’t under 5-9” it’s not ideal. Would be good if you are short so you don’t have to reach up so much for the handle.

Anyone running one? Looking for feedback on what people like and what features or layouts are good. I know the 2008+ cars have a beeper and tiny led but that really isn’t effective. There are some nice F1 style LED strip ones but they are $300-450. Also digital dashes that have them built in do they work well day and night and have any dimming?

Downpipe and tune is still best value upgrade though it costs more every year. Stock 2L cars are only really about 185kw at the wheels, with down pipe and tune can hit 220kw at the wheels. But that’s just peak power which isn’t where the big gains are. What you want is more area under the line on the dyno graph. Useable power is consistent and found in the mid range. Stock turbo won’t put out much more than a few extra psi at the redline so up there there is only a little gain up there. What it can push 5-7psi more or about 23psi by 4K which is a 30-40% gain. Turbo comes on a little earlier and ramps up way quicker. That’s where the push you back in your seat comes from. Look at the power on some dyno graphs posted on here or other forum that have stock and tuned. In some it’s 45kw in the 4.5k range. But likely it’s 35kw from 4.5k all the way to 8k If you add a bigger intercooler you may get more power, but what it mainly gives you is more time at those dyno numbers. Normally after slower twisting roads at high boost in lower gears the intake temps rise and it won’t make the same power as on the dyno. Or cheaper option is water spray kit.

That used to be the case but the newer ones run of PD or QC so 20v 3-5a from laptop power supplies. The one I have is 60 watts and some are 100w and they use the same changeable tips as the mains powered ones. I only did a couple of speaker wires and some microcontroller stuff and it work very well. Other than the grounding issue that is solvable once you know it exists.

When running from battery there is no issue since nothing is grounded. Same applies to running from power banks. TLDR; keep them away from car electronics when powered from the wall. Wires etc are ok to solder if not connected, eg making a loom disconnected from the car. Anything with integrated circuits, chips will likely suffer some damage. Seems this is well known in electronic circles but not communicated widely outside. When powered from wall socket they have floating ground which while super low amperage can be in the 40-70v range between tip and you skin. You won’t feel or notice this at all. Wearing a grounding strap actually make it’s worse as then all that voltage will have somewhere to go. The irons are built correctly and connect the tip to usb shielding, it’s a power supply issue. The problem comes from the fact modern USB or DC power adaptors do not ground the shielding of the cable that the iron needs to discharge the static ESD. Eg Apple used to ground there adaptors but newer usb-c ones some are some aren’t. Seems the USB standard does not specify which end should be grounded as grounding both ends and having more than one thing plugged in can cause more issues. There are fixes I won’t link to as playing with wall plugs even if just plugging into the earth terminal needs some understanding. Many irons now come with special grounding wires to plug into the wall so if you have this then you should be ok.

Partsouq is but shipping is ok amayama has a depot here they ship from for fixed costs. amayama have Japan as supplier and also seem to use supplier who is behind partsouq for UAE listed stock. I use both, as do a lot of other owners. Can’t say have had or heard any complaints.

Yes that’s insurance company stats, it’s why classic cover has lower premiums. Insurance runs on stats, it’s how they make money. But the reason for the stat maybe based on less km traveled per year so at risk less for a great amount of time. Also driver is likely not a better driver in other cars, is more aware of the current cars value or sentimental value so treats it different. Eg takes more time and care to park it away from danger. The reason isn’t important for insurance to make money. As long as the statistics hold they win. Only WOF issue I have are when they don’t understand cert plates or what they can and can’t fail you on with Motorsport authority card. Been failed for certified suspension, no airbag with full cage, harnesses, oh and washer fluid being low.

Many of my cars didn’t as they got changed so often it wasn’t worth it. Oil sticker thing is definitely on the outer edge more an indicator. For non car people that sticker is probably the only reminder they get for servicing. Unless that one time you went to a dealer years ago and the still spam email you reminders. Can be a generic sticker for home mechanics. Needs a big list made then sanity checked. could get points system, oil sticker or no service built into dash 1 point. Get to X points and you are getting 6 month WOF. Really any competent WOF or mechanic can see in a minute or two if the car is looked after, but you need a checklist or people argue and law can’t be too vague. bluntly it’s politics, so likely someone the minister knows has a car collection and complained his 100+ car collection was costing a little and wasting his time when he wanted to randomly drive one and the WOF had expired.

I’ve always wondered why it’s not a dynamic system. Get longer time eg 12 months if… is overall tidy, and somewhat clean. no rust areas starting Fluid leaks brakes are past a high enough level hasn’t had crash repairs done. Gets WOF after repair but for 6 months, then back to 12. Does less than 15,000km per year. gets 6 months over 15,000km car fill with litter and junk No Oil change sticker service light interval warning etc. Could have a 18 or 24 month for under 5,000km. Or pro active maintenance. Clear the cookies for that site, or use private browser session.

Well that’s good news then.

Partsouq.com put chassis code in and you can browser sections to find parts if you don’t know the number, or just the part number if you have it. amayama.com they will tell you superseded parts and what replaces them.

Some of this is word of mouth others is personal experience. the good EFR turbos spool very fast and make boost low down. The 7163 is close to a stock 48/49 twin scroll turbo but just keep going to 40psi. They make good power and efficient so top mount is a viable option to 450whp. Bigger frame B2 make huge power and still have impressive spool. there are some hybrid Gama-Ti without the small inlet as options but they are not as good as the efr with cover swap. the bad The limited inlet side is a real problem. You need an anti surge cover SX or they choke. They are an OEM or OEM replacement turbo so while they can put out big boost in shipped form they must have the built in recirculating valve or they choke even faster. Don’t fit a blanking plate and run external BOV. they can’t sustain 15 degrees angle even though that’s the spec. Even 10 degrees can leak. the ugly You can’t rebuild them as there are no parts. Parts are back ordered as far back as 2019. Apparently this was as they started to move production to China in 2019 and got caught up in the pandemic so lost a lot of production time. Even now 5 years later some parts are up to 18 months back order. They like to leak oil. This is due to the lack of counter rotating grooves to push oil back. But that are also sensitive to pressure either in oil feed or crank case. Once they have leaked they seem to leak forever. Make sure you put a OPR like turbosmart inline with them from the first start. There are quite a few secondhand units floating around that leak but you can’t tell until they are running. They won’t have shaft play and can look clean, or have been cleaned. prices have almost doubled since release so the reviews for the price point no longer stand. Factoring in $700 for a new cover they are big money.

Carpet places can make mats. They can just do the outer loop stitching on any carpet. You could get an old matching mat and cut it to shape then have them do the outer trim. That way you get a tiny mat for the foot area.

TLDR; Drone isn’t like road noise normal sound deadening methods don’t work well. It’s mostly about the roof and the gap between the headliner. Stuffing that with something foam or felt reduces the noise. You should notice that drone isn’t all around you and quieter. Exhaust now comes clearly from very rear of car. What I did that worked Stuffing the gap and adding sound deadening to the roof skin makes a significant difference to both exhaust drone and muddy subwoofers. What you must do is put something on the roof skin before adding so if it ever gets damp it won’t hold water next to the metal. both sound deadening or the below thermal sheet solve this You don’t need to add heavy tar/rubber sheets but can, though that likely improve rain and hail noise the most. If your car is a dark colour then you should cover the roof internal structure and braces at the top of windscreen. This is thin and for the top of windscreen area where you cannot place more than 2-3mm is about the only option. Any stick on fibreglass and alloy heat wrap works. This can act as your water barrier as well. I only used this over the rails structure. And front as I didn’t know the thickness of gap around rails. Front to back between rails structure closed cell foam 10-15mm thick was used. This is about the height of the rails so makes a level surface. What you want is Subwoofer ‘wool’ or ‘cotton’ which is plastic and often water repellent. The most common is PET. For other materials check fire retardant properties. PET melts but does self extinguish and the headliner is partly made of this. It comes in 30-40mm thick 550mm rolls. There is likely already felt pads glued to headliner. Remove these as this is what you are replacing with much more coverage. Depending on the model where to put the stuffing varies. But the general idea is to cover as much of the headliner as possible. Avoid or watch out for the following areas: - windscreen upper frame as the lining almost touches it so no clearance - Around the lights. I just puts heat wrap around this and on to foam to seal them away from foam. Maybe a good time to swap to LED bulbs. - main rail structures. The 5-10cm wide ones where lights mount. The longing may curve in these areas to close the gap for mounting or clips. - anywhere the headliner curves upward - sides if you have airbags. Look to stop where the headliner starts to curve down. Airbags blow out that area when they come down. I taped these roughy in place for testing to make sure the headliner still when back in and wasn’t pushed out anywhere. Once fitting correctly the stuffing was glued in place with a few squiggles or small 30mm circles of shoe glue at corners, sides and few middle points.

Can’t answer that but what’s your cars under carpet sound deadening like? Some models have thicker foam or felt that you can trim out to gain 1-3cm clearance Thickness depends on model trim Eg higher spec models can be thicker legacy maybe thicker than Impreza. And newer car have more thickness or density.

https://legacypic.uk/transmission/search.php?type=tr690gbdca says matching ratios with what you listed and also another model. according to the site above the 9ca is listed against 2014 models all with FA not EJ engines? are the bell housing and bolt pattern the same, you may need to get measurements to confirm. Can always ring Subaru dealer and ask what supersedes your current gear box.

I will learn to read one day, but yes they have condensers too. just have to search for older or original part numbers. eg for the last 3 digits try 0x0 and 0x1 where x is 1 to 9. Chinese sites don’t update the superseded numbers.

Or search the part number and alternatives in aliexpress, they do AC compressors. BMW owners are getting a $3000 compressor for $300, not quite the markup on Subaru parts but worth a look.

AutoPS.co.nz Picked up a few bits there today. Friendly and helpful, plus the prices on what I wanted was cheap.

Found out what the fluid was. All of them… and it’s all the things that have been rebuilt in under 5-700km. Upper coolant tank. But known about that for before Xmas but hadn’t driven since. Rear main seal, guessing that been since rebuild too. Gearbox around the front pump area. Time to drop car back off and give them time to fix the mistakes. also picked up tape to restick the fender badges on. Found two new 1cm to the metal scratches on the bonnet so touched those up. The bonnet was fully resprayed and was chip free since 2021.