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Everything posted by Gripless

  1. Ok… what type of knocking? is it a single big knock or bouncing knock knock does it sound sharp and harsh or more dampened and springy is it only under braking or can it happen going over small speed bumps at low speed. does it come from the middle or sides of the car? with a passenger in the back seat so they can put their head out the window each side and tell which is louder. Go over a speed bump forwards then backwards. turn the wheels and look at the lower alloy arm rear rubber bush for cracks. Phone camera will show cracks better than you can see. a tire iron or crow bar applying a bit of force under then can show cracks better. its a common failure on the 2007-2013 until them swapped to ball joints. Whiteline did do balljoints for Motorsport use that pretty much like factory ones. bushes are reasonably easy to get eg BNT or others have replacements https://whiteline.com.au/search/popular-parts-for-subaru-impreza-2008-wrx-sti-gr-hatch/front-control-arm-lower-inner-rear-bushing-double-offset-kit-to-suit-subaru-forester-impreza-lib-9986-kca334.html https://whiteline.com.au/search/popular-parts-for-subaru-impreza-2008-wrx-sti-gr-hatch/front-control-arm-lower-inner-rear-bushing-kit-to-suit-subaru-forester-impreza-liberty-outback-9986-w53353.html
  2. Sure it sounds all good. but given it’s pushing oil through the seals and smoking a lot at idle, either it’s not draining or the crankcase pressure is getting high. Water line seems to be the reason the drain is angled and has extra welded joints. Maybe it’s just the AOS lines not being able to drain.
  3. Ok after rechecking everything 3 issues for the turbo and oil draining. 1) turbo drain is 45 degree back and sideways tube. It’s welded 10cm down to make another45 degree bend. The reason is bends so much is the water line to turbo is in the way. 2) The water in out to turbo is on the same side which according to page 49ish of the BW tech guide is a big no no and water can’t circulate 3) AOS drain to crankcase has a droop that could be pooling oil and not free draining back. This was on top of the other head line that previously had cables ties holding them pulled tight enough to kink the line pretty much closed. The AOS may need to be mounted higher and the top fitting change from a 180 to 90 to give it more clearance.
  4. Relay is likely next to fuse box and lots of relays are the same so you can borrow another one for testing.
  5. Are you testing with all bulbs removed on the tail lights? Maybe one side has a short or corroded. If you can test at the plugs under or near the rear seats. That may tell you if the issue is at the front or rear of the car. If you have voltage there then the issue isn’t the switch or fuse box damage. WI-12 check relay for tail & illumination fuse 12 two V wires on a1 b2 Wire WG on D12 1v on a digital multimeter could be a faulty relay as it’s an average reading over maybe 0.5 seconds. If a relay is very rapidly connecting and disconnecting the average can be a low voltage. Analog meters or oscilloscope you can se the voltage swing around the other option is something is grounding that out and your multimeter is only seeing some of the voltage. you can test a relay with a 9v battery in many cases outside the car.
  6. The drain pressure will build up until the area under the bearings and the tiny gap the oil goes through is all under pressure from crankcase. Then any vacuum in the intake or low exhaust pressure will have more effect than gravity.
  7. Mine is stock drain sized from the outside, but it’s the crankcase and head vents to the radium AOS that seems to be the cause. I may remove the drain and check the gasket isn’t blocking things at some point. Most likely I’m going to find the AOS breather and plumb it back to the intake for some vacuum.
  8. Radium pretty much comes down to don’t combine PCV and head vents. So all those running single catchcans for all things will have issues. https://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/New-Product-Release-Subaru-AOS-and-Oil-Catch-Cans-103 https://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/Catch-Cans-101-102
  9. Turbo oil seals aren’t what keeps the oil in. It’s a spiral cut in the washer or shaft are designed to fling oil back towards the middle to controls oil leaks. This was a part of Haley Davidson early bikes to solve oil issues. Not sure they invented it but they made it popular. The slower the shaft speed the worse the oil leak will be as it can’t fling the oil away from the seal. Think of it like a pump, slower it runs the less oil it can move away from the seals. 3/4 is only a help if the crankcase pressure is good. They other 2 videos cover that as well. last one even adding the catch an to a system can raise crankcase pressure to the point it pressurises the drain no matter the size.
  10. Turbo drains cut away, with oil issue causes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGSoe-sZcXk Oil issues jumps to timestamp for Crankcase vent https://youtu.be/X9pzZCFXrV4?t=226 even CV hose length causing issues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KopDR9A9uas
  11. I think AOS designs are mostly pretty or clones of someone’s else idea more than functional. Seems far better to replace the head baffle system with a better one than run a separate AOS. line to intake may need the low mount sump and breather otherwise the intake vacuum would be pulling oil through the turbo.
  12. Skid factory video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJchCTVvjgQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfXxs7jxH88?t=354
  13. So EFR turbos are sensitive to pressure in the drain system. Eg if you have positive crank case pressure they will push oil past the seals. 14-60psi operating pressure 20degrees rotation from vertical You really need 12mm or larger drain and a larger diameter hose/pipe to the sump. Do NOT use banjo or threaded fittings for oil drain. -10an or smaller is suited to scavenger pump oil return like Porsche. 3/4 hose/pipe recommended a small oil tank under the turbo can help with frothing oil and cleaner return. Thinking of billet fuel filter with filter cove removed so has 50mm diameter chamber to allow foam to settle. More info https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/psa-efr-turbo-oil-drain-information-read-before-designing-your-oil-drain-93944/ https://turbosource.com/blogs/news/borgwarner-efr-technical-installation-guide This may apply to newer garrret turbos as well. fittings https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32404284074.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33052615896.html Thanks to @Andy_Mac for putting me onto all this.
  14. Edit: incorrect info removed. Drain is a normal bent pipe fitting 15-30 degrees. Still a few hose clamps not on correctly again after last visit.
  15. So getting pretty over this now. earlier found hoses rubbing on things, latest was drivers side head breather kinked almost closed from routing and over tighten cable ties. car still has minor issue with engine and reasons given are all over the place depending on who answers the phone or question. ECU doesn’t support functions due to table limits Been told turbo is the issue and 2 in 12 new turbos have seal leaks. Still has hunting idle and rough spots at 1200 and 3k rpm
  16. Koken stuff is fantastic. For worn or damaged parts try nut twisters I’ve used them on rounded suspension bolts etc and have worked well.
  17. Test the terminals and joints at the relay first. no point rewiring just to find out the mount and socket is the issue.
  18. The blink rate is controlled by resistance. the relay works if the dash lights work. Well in most cases the flasher relay only has one output that is share t dash and external. somewhere in the wiring or at a plug the dash and external lights will split. after that point on the external lights side you have an issue. Also do you have led replacement bulbs?
  19. Depends on the shape but they aren’t usually complex so a scrape piece or Perspex or hard plastic and a file can make a new one. 3D printing won’t likely hold up as it shear strength you need.
  20. Guess it isn’t listed as a part. usually it a small plastic part wth a spring. some cars it’s on the outside of the barrel and you can swap it over from another one. Under 83141 the cap see the rectangle cut out in the main part. That’s likely where the bit that is damaged is.
  21. Yes way lighter weight and since forged the spokes are thin so do have better brake clearance than others. If you space stock wheels the steering gets heavy as the scrub radius increases. Stock brakes are bigger than the tires can cope with, so bigger brakes won’t do much. even 20mm wider tires the stock brakes still won’t be the weak point. those wheels also come in the factory gold tint if you can find them.
  22. Most brands are made in China anyway. often they skip some finishing steps. Could be they skipped a chemical wash or final bake to save money.
  23. Swapped the broken centre console sliding cover with aliexpress one. the aliexpress one doesn’t have a silver inset on the handle and isn’t rubbery soft touch like the OEM one. Which went off goes sticky. it’s an better match with the rest of the console plastic and looks nicer than the OEM one.
  24. I found NZ post seems to hold items a few days and puts them into a single bigger bag for courier to deliver. Previously 4-10 days was normal, now it’s 7-12 days. tempted by the short shifter but it’s pretty short from factory. I do miss the cable shifter as you can raise them up so they are close to the steering wheel and keep the same throw. All I got was the sliding cover since one wrecker wanted $175 for whole console!
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