Gripless

Lol I have the opposite problem. Down pipe and titanium cat back with massive quad tips.

Low mount is on a lot of builds, even moved to factory low mount as it’s more efficient. Look at some of the beatle ej conversions they have done it a few times. Skid factory builds as well. It’s pretty basic just minimising losses in the exhaust before the turbo. mine is built for 850whp but that’s only as a new stock crank was used. I’m going for fast spool and quick response so mine will be around 500hp. Have you modelled any of the turbos, though all should be better than your current one. the EFR has some nice feature which aren’t popular with some. Mainly the titanium alloy turbine which is glued onto the shaft. It I suspect that’s what give it the rpm limit and you’ll need a speed sensor if pushing them. Also makes them a rip and replace rather than repair in some cases.

Why not just swap the muffler over to a adrenalinR one at a local shop. Save some money and less OEM crap to store.

The gen 2 seems to offer a lot more than the gen 1 from all the over seas retune and upgrade tests. I went with the EFR as it’s pretty much the best spool you can get. but low front mount turbo will do even quicker turbo spool.

There are two big fuses on the back of the fuse box in the foot well. one covers the whole middle console. The other may do the rest of the dash and cluster.

I think you should call the LVVTA head office and choose the tech option. The info they give you is about the best you’ll get. they are also aware of any changes coming up that make screw you over if you don’t complete things by a set date. getting a cert is a massive range from simple to very complex. I’ve had certain for different things and some are drive in drive out. Others are months of calls and paperwork. But they all go well if you start with a call to the source. Or I’ve hit them up at car show when they have a stand.

Mate, if workshops won’t take your money, why are you still trying? They are say it’s not worth the profit of doing it for them. Let alone the base cost. ring the LVVTA and see what they want these days as well. it used to be easy to do with no cert but as soon as you have traction control etc it’s all safety related and so all likely to require recert. I’ve converted other cars but wouldn’t even bother with newer ones as it’s a pain to get all the electrical s*** working and having seen there are actually 3 or more varieties of the GR v11. My one predates the wiring manual and then the facelift is different again for some things. Plus you can’t trust anything from American forums as the are left hand drive.

I’m trying not to buy one as well. now they have carbon fibre and glass thread filament it’s tempting. also there are some slicer programs that can make print not 2D layered but real 3D but it’s still very printer dependent and not user friendly. wait until you find out things like 3D camera can be scanners to get rough models. Like Xbox connect etc for low cost.

400hp crank is 656cc at 43psi try this. https://www.deatschwerks.com/fuel-calculators/fuel-injector-calculator basically 675-1200 range is ok for your power and still streetable.

Think my stock ones are near 80% for 220wkw. Do you want to run e85 or not? As you need 30% more flow for that.

I got the DW 1200 which are plug and play. Also they are apparently below the point where the idle starts to suffer. Or 1400 ones tend to not spray well at idle and so it gets a bit rough.

It’s one hole. Just the trans tunnel. You could make something up that fits factory belt buckle but that’s not easy. Plus then the airbag goes off and you’ll not be far enough forward for it to work. you can also just run the lap belt if they won’t let you run the rear straps. I run the rear straps as a have a HANS device that also stop the straps cutting into your neck with the narrow stock seat harness hole. angle isn’t legal if you have the seat to far back. And well outside the ideal angles.

You just need to drill and plate a hole in the trans tunnel behind the seat opposite the outside lower seat belt bolt replace the seatbelt bolt with a long one with round eye bolt. Then the same with two rear seat belt ones. then you can run any normal harness. go to any place that does race cars and they can do it super easy.

Aren’t those head, cams and valves going to need a twisted setup to work well? The off boost performance can’t be great. the Chinese stuff is pretty hot and miss but it does get better every year.

Ok my 2c TLDR; pretty much what everyone else has said. the oils cap isn’t directly on the cam cover like a inline engine since the heads are so low in the engine bay. That’s why no mess as the cams and rockers etc would have to splash oil all the way up the filler tube which is 20cm long and has a bend in it. over filling to 1cm is noticed in the engine note at idle and light load but still won’t break anything. 5mm is perfectly fine. The oils light is a problem. Firstly make sure it still works. From a cold start turn key to ACC and then ON but don’t start. The oil light should come on. If it doesn’t swap out the bulb and sensor ASAP. the dash lights are meant to be checked every time, not that anyone does. Ive had an engine oil pressure switch die and it came one short burst for a bit then stopped forever. It died at higher rpm when the oil pressure was normal peak being old it just gave up. I’d be tempted to replace the sensor anyway as cheaper than chasing low pressure and finding out it was a sensor the whole time.

Gearboxes aren’t cheap and rebuilt ones cost even more. gearbox mounts new clutch need downpipe etc wiring and sensors firewall holes pedal set Cert. optional the dash to get rid of the old auto lights. Not sure on driveshaft length. ive not done a Subaru but they are known to have wiring harnesses to match the model. Lots of other males have both auto and manual wiring and it’s a lot easier when things clip into place. I wouldn’t attempt it with a car that is so common and new.

Have you thought about the modern trackers like tile maybe airtag next year or even a cheap cellphone joined to your account as a child. Then you can track and set boundaries as well. The aim cost can be added for $20-25 a month with data only.

As long as you realise 90% are all running on the same s****y servers in China from one company. It’s all just rebranded hardware and web front ends. ive seen the platform hacked and live track every car. Or changes the phone number that controls the car and mess with people. smart place that runs all those kid tracker/sos cellular units.

If dissolving s*** in the fuel helps then you likely had some crap building up somewhere.

In that case you may want to go look at the fuel filters

Good thing that I have all inconel oversized valves almost identical exhaust port flows and nice turbo. It’ll rev as high as it feels like on the day it gets tuned... power goal and rev limit are not set numbers just as high as the want to be.

Nope but I like high rpm and the valve train should be good for it. power likely taper off after 8500rpm as turbo runs out but life is hard.

Well we will see. Balancing mine to at least 10k.

Wear is from abuse or lack of maintenance. the wrong gear and low rpm would be far worse. If the factory ecu lets you do it then no problems, you can rev it to the redline if you like. Also if it caused excessive wear then the ecu would have been wired to the gearbox or clutch to stop it free revving.

If your car has a down pipe or tune then it’s just the ecu tables that need tweaking. I guess just the wastegate control needs to be a little more aggressive.