boon
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Posts posted by boon
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You could do what I'm essentially doing; buy an XForce exhaust then replace the resonator and/or muffler with AdrenalinR parts.
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Massive audio nerd opinion: The auto-eqs, auto-time-alignment... they all suck. They either just outright suck, or they make the car a one-seat-wonder, where it sounds good if you are in the driver's seat and 5'10 tall but the rest of the cabin is a muddy mess.
They also miss the fact that by and large "flat" sounds kinda s*** anyway, at least to my ears. Bump everything below about 150hz, -3dB notch at 2khz, roll off from maybe 12khz up, perfecto.
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Yeah, there's a very narrow rev range where it's not too bad but it's bonkers loud at idle and there are a few points in the range where it fairly roars.
Latest round of mods is going to include a great big AdrenalinR resonator in the middle somewhere. The current one doesn't seem to do anything.
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I've had a Redline radiator on my STI for years, seems to work just fine. Radiator hose did need shortening by a tiny bit though.
I don't know much about that top-mount. They used to do a front mount kit for GDBs that had a terrible core in it, who knows if it came out of the same factory or not.
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My Xforce (GDB) seems reasonably well made and flows well but DAMN it's loud.
I'd be seriously considering making one up using Adrenalin-R bits.
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Deadbeats gonna deadbeat, I guess. An attachment on their benny will really sting. Follow the process, you'll get paid
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Pretty much anything GD fits the spline as far as I know; the ultimate in rare and glorious being a V10 Spec C wheel (or there may even be a factory alcantara one that came on some S204's but is so rare as to basically not exist).
Getting the clock spring and airbag to work correctly is another matter altogether. Anything later than V8 uses a clever multi-stage airbag that will throw an SRS fault, and probably not go off if you stack the car. I believe the only way to make it all work nicely with a late-model wheel is to get a V8 inflator and clockspring then fit them to a later model wheel.
The americans do all sorts of swaps, check out NASIOC and that other big US subaru forum that the name escapes me....
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All stock location "big" turbos suck. Every single person that has built a car with one has been disappointed with the end result, the end.
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Hrm, if you put one of those engine flushes through it then there's a reasonable chance you've dislodged a big chunk of s***e and it has gone somewhere bad. First port of call would probably be one of the AVCS solenoids; I would wager a shiny penny that there is a lump of goop blocking the banjo filter on one or both of them.
Don't use engine flush unless the car has had it for its entire life. It makes perfectly harmless deposits around the motor break free and go and get stuck in useful things like turbo oil feeds and various solenoids. There is a reason that the vehicle manufacturers themselves recommend against it.
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Actually, you "flushed the engine"...
Howso? Just dumped the oil or ran some sort of product in the oil first?
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You are thinking way too much.
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Just pay the $20 or whatever and get an olive fitting hose end thingymabob so your factory line ends in a -6AN fitting.
https://speedflow.com.au/an-male-to-tube-adapter-from/ as an expensive example, 5/16 to -6AN (assuming factory is indeed 5/16)
Better than springing a fuel leak somewhere down the road.
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I would say ballpark $1000? I feel like a day's labour and a couple of hundred bucks worth of sundries, maybe add a little more on for oil/filter and anything else you decide to freshen up at the time.
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Ha, what a joke. In my GF8 I actually biffed that wheel for the (IMO) much nicer Momo one from a Legacy of a similar age.
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Considering you had basically written the money off, that's like.... a dozen free beers and a couple of free good steaks every week for 18 months. Bloody result.
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Does it change with RPM? Might have drowned the idler bearing on the pulley thing on one of the accessory belts. You'll know the one when you look at the front of the motor. You can get a replacement for the complete pulley, including the bearing, for like $40 at Repco off the top of my head. I'd give you the part number but I literally got rid of the box last week after doing mine several years ago.
EDIT: It's actually pretty hard to drown a stock one of these motors... the snorkus thing has a couple of strategically placed holes that are there to stop it slurping water up. If you keep RPM low and therefore airflow low you would have to be most of the way up the headlights before it took a big ol drink.
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On 30/01/2020 at 1:48 PM, boon said:
That'll be why both the front and back bumpers are wonky and the window line on the driver's side has a bloody step in it
Seriously, the front bumper, grill, and headlights look like someone threw them at the car and went "good enough!"
The steering wheel is flogged out too. And there's some random wiring dangling from by the driver's right knee.
This is from a 30 second eyeball of a trademe auction.
People seem to want absolute drug money these days for relatively s****y cars. Hang on to your money and wait for the right car to come along, or you'll pay over the odds for a probably lemon.
Dare I say it but "I told you so"?
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How on earth does the head gasket fail on a 50000km car
Maybe find out how much a complete motor would cost you, you might be surprised. When I cooked the head on my Hilux years ago it was considerably cheaper to buy another motor, especially when you consider that you're paying the labour for the engine to come out and go back in anyway.
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38 minutes ago, swamp said:
Some people @boon will go to great lengths, plate and tag, changing rear windscreens, plenty of dodgy folk love early model 90s Subarus, plenty of dodgy wof/bro deals out there despite the recent crackdown. In short, the only way to do it without a cert is to go to great lengths to circumvent the law.
Kinda stupid though isn't it, they should just buy one that Mr. Subaru put a turbo on at the factory.
List of ways to get a turbo Subaru, sorted by cost:
-Buy a turbo subaru
-Swap turbo bits into a N/A Subaru, then get a cert
-Swap turbo bits into a N/A Subaru, then go to the trouble of all sorts of dodgy s*** like swapping tags from a real turbo Subaru that you should have just bought in the first place.
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9 hours ago, swamp said:
OP could potentially get away without a cert...
But yes unfortunately it would be cheaper and easier to buy a wrx than do your swap...
How exactly do you propose getting away with a larger engine and a turbo without a cert?
Just swap the N/A 1.8L in each time you go for a WoF?
I mean yeah you could get a sloppy as WoF guy who failed to notice it was a turbo, but you also have to consider the vehicle would be 100% uninsurable in that state.
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It's not worth doing. You'll have to cert it as well.
If you can't afford a GF8, then you can't afford to EJ20T-swap a GF6.
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On 27/05/2020 at 6:06 PM, Loren said:
Lots of cars have them... I think they are there to keep road dirt and water out of the engine bay, rather than for any aero effect.
Not the full length of the car, though...
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99% sure that's a WRX. Non red manifold is a giveaway.
See if you can work out what the turbo is too.
If it was an STI it would have some other dead giveaways like a 6 speed and STI interior bits.
EDIT: It may have had an STI bonnet put on it. STI bonnet should be alloy, I believe the others are steel?
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I think it does f*ck all unless you're full racecar and the car is low as a low low thing, and you're driving on a race-track smooth surface. Otherwise the turbulence under the car is a joke anyway. I think for fuel economy you would spend more on making up a flat bottom than you would ever save in gas.
EDIT: This also completely throws out the window that Subaru spent a whole pissload of R&D on designing a bunch of aero for your car already; for example the gearbox tunnel creates a low-pressure area at the rear of the engine bay that is intended to draw air down through the intercooler and past the turbo; if you put a full under-car tray on this would probably become a high-pressure zone instead due to all the air coming in through the bonnet scoop having nowhere to go.
Amateur aero is more or less a complete waste of time on the road.
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Seriously, the front bumper, grill, and headlights look like someone threw them at the car and went "good enough!"
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Laggy turbo
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
These cars have halfway intelligent boost systems. If it's not making boost, either it's because something is faulty, incorrectly installed, or the ECU is literally telling it not to build boost.
Forcing it to make boost, with a tap or an external, is a good way to blow up a motor.