boon

Controversial opinion: If you want a "dead" car, buy an Audi.

This is relevant to my interests, then I could run one of those lovely PW manifolds and keep my AC.

I have mine with Classic Cover, they've always been good but I've only ever claimed a windscreen.

Went to tension the aircon belt due to it being a little squeaky, and the f***ing plastic adjuster thing split. At least my local dealer had one in stock, and at a very reasonable price. Always makes me laugh how variable the pricing can be on random little OEM bits.

Its the tyres rubbing on the body/guard liner, not some diff issue....

I'm fairly sure a 2006 Legacy is coil-on-plug so won't have coil leads? Could be heaps of things. Boost control solenoid on the way out, ECU pulling boost due to detecting a fault.... does it idle nicely? Could be a miss...

I got a STI Duracon one out of Japan while the yen was swirling around the toiletbowl, as well as a few other STI option parts. Nice upgrade from the slightly peeling leather one.

These alarms are configured by connecting a USB cable and using a laptop. If your installer wasn't a p**** (coin-toss) the alarm brain will be a complete **** to get to. If they were a p**** it will probably be zip-tied about an inch above your steering column. Even if you can find it, you need the installer software, which AVS don't make publicly available because of AVS reasons.

Controversial opinion but I'd rather have no sub at all than a half-assed one. Sink that same money into a really good front stage and call it a day.

85261FG000 ?

Blob gets DCCD too if you care about that. V9 Blob also gets 5x114.3 PCD for far better rim options, slightly wider track (I'm pretty sure anyway) and a slightly more modern interior.

Controversial: Maybe see if there's a cap you could put over the external thread on the valve? Janky fix but hey....

If you're lucky it will just be the valve core, which, assuming it's definitely a standard Schrader valve, will be straightforward to replace (other than all your refrigerant escaping while you do it). If that doesn't solve it, you have to do the whole hose, the valve is an integral part of it. There should be oodles of them at Pickapart/your local wrecker, although finding one that hasn't been butchered while someone was getting at another part might be the harder part.

Actually, I misread the original question. I'm not sure exactly what fluid the center diff takes; whether it shares it with the gearbox or what. Presumably yours is DCCD which also complicates things.

Castrol Syntrax 75w90. What makes you say it's the centre diff though?

Pretty good discussion on it here:

So wait, it will build boost if you freeboost it? If so it's a problem with your boost control, but you want to be very very sure it's not in limp mode and restricting boost because of that.

Do you know if it was an OEM one or aftermarket? Assuming the car is an '06 Outback I'm guessing aftermarket. As a guess, the red wire will be +12V, white will be the video signal, and the shield will be the ground if there's no other conductors. I would be really surprised if it was not 12V, unless there's a module somewhere that's stepping the power down. Usually they're 12V and just take a tap off the reverse lights.

Well, there's not much you can do about it now other than hope it makes its way to your oil filter and stays there. EDIT: I guess you could get a wet vacuum with a thin tube on the end and try to slurp as much as possible out? Assuming that gallery is the one that feeds the head, the first place it goes is the camshaft caps, then there's a few different places it can end up. I suspect if it gets as far as the camshaft/rockers it will get squashed to a microscopic paste and just become part of the oil. All the kinda "sensitive" places on your motor have their own filter basket, like the AVCS solenoids. The turbo, hmm, I can't remember if there's a filter on that banjo fitting. I'd say there's like a 98% chance it just ends up in the bottom of your sump or in your oil filter and goes in the bin next time you do an oil change.

Man that TR option is about as close to an STI as you're likely to get nowadays. A shame Subaru NZ doesn't bring a few in.

The cars are pretty much identical. I think the tS gets like... heated wing mirrors, some slightly fancy dampers and an STI badge on the steering wheel. It is a little bit odd that they don't offer a manual tS but that's the reality of most car brands and their extremely limited customisation these days.

Dealer techs aren't going to be the greatest source of what is normal, usually, because as you highlighted, 99% of the cars they see are the "ordinary" ones, whereas obviously a place like ClubSub or some niche Subaru guy is going to have a concentration of "weird" Subarus. As you have clearly discovered there's a pretty enormous list of possible variations of axle+diff centre+diff housing, each possibly having a unique configuration. Don't overthink this one. If you can think of a way your rear axles could come out during normal operation without there first being a catastrophic failure of some suspension component I'm all ears.

I'm about 95% sure that when we did the diff on my STI the circlips stayed in the diff.

What model alarm do you have? Sounds a little bit like you might need to re-pair the remote(s), buggered if I know how you do it, you probably need the overrride code which is usually entered by turning the ignition on and off. Meanwhile your alarm will be freaking out and the siren will be howling, unless you've got the override key for that and can switch it off... or smash it off the firewall and drop it in a bucket.

Hmm okay maybe it is a more curly one. Is it caused by _any_ load on the engine (having the car in gear will slightly load it, viscous coupling blah blah blah) or only in gear? Try loading it up a bit (Air con, headlights + heated seats if you have them) in Park and see if it dips. How does it run with some throttle? If it was a spark/miss issue I feel like it would be more pronounced with more RPM and load, things like coils or plugs usually behave like that. It does feel a little bit like a slight air/fuel problem. Inclined to say a very small vacuum leak (more likely after the throttle body) or perhaps an issue with one of your exhaust oxygen sensors, although those usually throw a CEL.