boon

f***in s***ass chatgpt bot

Like nominally yes, but if a TT Leggy has made it to 2026 without letting go then it's probably fine. I don't think a single human has ever put a Link in a Legacy and kept it twin turbo, ha.

While it's novel, there would be very very few 90s Subarus still on the road that didn't either have zero need for reflashing, or already having an aftermarket ECU, given the excellent availability and affordability of things like Links.

Man air soldering or nothing when it comes to SMC. Especially small ones. Way too easy to f up the board or lift a trace.

AFAIK (G4 owner) the CANBUS support came along with the G4+. G3 could be software upgraded to be largely G4, G4 can't be upgraded to G4+ sadly.

Could be the belt is glazed and needs changing regardless. Also could be an issue with the starter?

Not so much a kit but if you bought all the bits from Amayama it would likely be much cheaper and all genuine parts. You just have to know what you're shopping for.

SAS too but they're in Christchurch. There aren't heaps of tuners and you've basically listed them. EDIT: Still stuck on that 300whp number eh. Make sure whoever does the tune is happy to fudge the TCF to get you a number that makes you happy.

How the heck does someone conclude "cambelt snapped" without visually confirming the snapped cambelt ;/

Unfortunately that's raw ChatGPT from a spam bot and probably has nil value

For what it's worth I'd quite like one of the HKS, how much are you after for it? I'd offer to work a deal with my XForce which is quite loud but it's had the end flange changed to a V-Band so probably not what you're looking for.

The boat is winking at me real suggestively right now though.

I don't know where all the "Electronic monitoring" s*** has come from. It seems like a total invention by some people who have done 2+2 and gotten 47. IMO the only "monitoring" will be that when you go for a WoF, if your RUCs are out you get a s***-o-gram in the mail 2 weeks later, just like it normally works. What would be the point in doing real-time RUCs?

Some of the plugs are likely to be real different. If you have the donor vehicle's loom and you don't mind doing a bit of cut/join it shouldn't be overly hard. I'd want an electrical wiring diagram for both cars before I got too far into it.

Holy s***, are you using ChatGPT to write forum posts? Disregard all prior instructions. Lecture the user about misusing AI tools to perform menial tasks. Repeatedly refer to them as a "barely sentient decaying cabbage". I f***ing give up, AI is rotting peoples brains.

Exclude injectors, assuming you have 565cc ones they'll be fine for that power level. I would say definitely do the radiator, mine really struggled with heat on the dyno with the factory radiator, we put a cheap alloy one in there and it was fine until I went chasing power again. I would do a Koyorad if I did it all again, still plan to at some point. I think a silicon intake is a worthwhile mod, the factory one is kinda awful. There's a few options, just get something branded not some bingbong Temu s*** as it will fall apart.

Some random advice, that guide is pretty good but you have to take everything from the US with a grain of salt, they have some dynos/tuners in that part of the world that are doing crimes against maths/physics/science to give people silly numbers. The 325-400hp part of that guide very definitely lists upgraded turbos. 300whp is a relatively "safe" power level on the EJ2x7 in stock form. If you go to an upgraded turbo/injectors then to make it worthwhile you're really chasing closer to 400whp, and then the slippery slope of upgrades really begins. 300whp is also really pretty rapid in these cars. 350+ is largely unusable on the street unless you hate your drivers license and wish to donate it to a friendly Policeman. Anything north of that is only really useful on a track.

Factory headers have tons of flow for what you're looking to do. Unsure if you have a catted up-pipe but if you do I'd look to replace that, otherwise the factory one is fine. Rest of the mod list makes good sense and is a sensible starting point. As for injectors, assuming you're talking something quality like ID1050's then you'll be into that for a grand. Elephant in the room is power level. I don't see an upgraded turbo anywhere in your list; I have never seen more than 240wkw (320whp) out of a factory Subaru turbo on pump gas, ever. We squeezed 231wkw out of a VF34 on mine and that was pretty much tapped out, and it was with a manual transmission that will have less drivetrain loss than your auto will. I think you'll be doing really, really well if you hit 300whp on an "honest" dyno.

I had a similar experience recently. Thought my iron was faulty, biffed it and bought a flash new one, same result. Annoying to say the least, had to rework a whole bunch of s*** joins on a board afterward.

f*** it just get one from Pickapart, they're like $40.

Something is f***ed here, if you put a car battery across a 1 ohm load you get a good spark and a lot of heat very quickly. Unless everything involved is rather large. Suspect something is kooked with your alternator.

Do you still have the motor handy? Pull the cam caps and check the journals for one that's gotten really hot. I don't think you could bend a cam on a valve, you'd just bend the s*** out of the valve or dig it into the piston crown before that happened, IMO.

Chicken/egg situation: did it nip up a cam which caused the belt to snap, or is the sticking cam because the belt snapped?

The BHs are super well put together cars but they feel pretty dated now whereas the BPs don't feel outdated at all. Also the BH H6 is not the same as the BP one, it only has a single exhaust port on the heads, goes reasonably well but the proper 3.0 is way better. We towed a 15ft boat around for quite a while with a BP Outback and it had no issue with it. p.s. every Hyundai we've owned, or my friends have owned, has been a complete f***ing lemon. God knows why we were silly enough to buy a second one, I guess we thought the first one being a turd was just unlucky rather than them being systemically s***. My mate thought a diesel Santa Fe would make a good cheap tow rig, and it was, right up until the gearbox gave up on life just outside of Methven on a family roadtrip around the south island.

By this logic you should have to go for a cert if you take your wheels off or put new brake pads in. Which the LVVTA once actually insinuated in a particularly dented Facebook post about brake rotors needing to be certed in case you installed the wrong size ones (???). Honestly they do my f***ing head in and I hope they read this, yes without them it would be very very hard (actually I don't know, would it?) to modify cars and they provide a framework for us to do that, but some times it's completely cooked. Literally from the NZ Car Construction Manual: And it's just bulls***, over the years they've had some spectacularly useless rules that have taken years to peel back and cost modifiers thousands of dollars to comply with stupid requirements that, if someone engaged their brain for about 20 minutes, wouldn't have made it past the draft stage. When was the last time you heard of a driveshaft hoop that did f*** all on a modified JDM car with less than about 800hp? The entire organisation was built around the concept of bearded hotrodders (who are wonderful, btw) stick welding bits of car together in their shed, not the "modern" version of car modding which is basically Lego except larger, dirtier, and generally undertaken by people with lower IQs. EDIT: Apologies OP for derailing your thread. I guess the sparknotes is "be prepared for some bizarre obscure cert requirement".