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boon

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Everything posted by boon

  1. $1500 is for a long motor that the seller thought was toast. Which is about the value of the things that bolt onto a dead long motor. Used low-ish Kms EJ205 long motor, let's say $2k. Gaskets, seals, odds and ends that you would want to refresh, coolant, oil, probably $1k, 1.5k if you want to do the cambelt. Can you do all the labour yourself? If not, engine out, refresh replacement motor, engine back in, probably $2k+. So you're looking at $5k to revive it. If you went to a 207... shortblock or long motor? If I remember right the shortblocks are a couple of grand, then all the misc you would have to do, at least a couple more grand, then labour, a few more, then you would presumably need a retune as your compression is probably different, I'd say $10k all done and you would have probably the same performance as you do currently. EJ207 long motor, let's say $4-5k for the motor and bits hanging off it, $1k refreshing it, $2k labour, $1k tune (or maybe you could swap in an STI ECU?) - $8-10k and you would get EJ207 performance. But you would be better off selling yours before it blows up and buying an STI.
  2. Part the car out, or buy a $2k wrecker motor and cross your fingers. Converting to anything STI is going to be a very expensive journey.
  3. It's a stock-ish WRX. Don't ruin it with racecar spec stuff.
  4. Get an electrical wiring diagram for the car as a start. Is it a continuous beep or a beep beep beep beep?
  5. To be honest it sounds like you've made a mess of the alarm removal. First place I'd be looking is the door sensing. It sounds like the car thinks the driver's door is open.
  6. I feel like a '98 may be too old for FreeSSM. re. the cable, I used a VAGCOM cable with an obd2 connector with my '05 Legacy and it worked well. In terms of which connectors need plugging in to put it in diagnostic mode... ugh it seems to vary hugely even with supposedly identical cars... different markets, trim levels... first get confidence in your reading equipment, then you just have to experiment until you get the output you expect.
  7. The genuine price for the Brembos, last time I looked, was pretty vomit. I'm running Znoelli slotted cross-drilled rotors cos that's what the last owner put on the car. So it's fair to say I've had epic mileage from them. They stop good enough but make an annoying buzzing sound if you're driving alongside a wall such as the median divider on the motorway. (They look pretty racecar too) EDIT: Just had a look, Brembo front rotors >$1000/piece, no thanks.
  8. I had Prova equal lengths on mine. Good header with a stock turbo, honestly I thought they sounded decent too. Had a tendency to crack once I went to a big turbo. Gains were, as described, likely minimal on paper but the car felt nice to drive. I've gone to Legacy Twin Scrolls + up-pipe on the latest attempt at making the car better, had to change sump, dipstick and dipstick guide tube, and the pickup.
  9. The best out there is the AVO one. Deletes the little elbow that goes the airbox as well. It has ports on it for every single connection though so if you're deleting stuff it may not be useful. Every "Samco" one I've seen has been a fake pile of s***, be careful if you go that way. If you just go pipe... have someone weld one up for you. Keep in mind it has to do a little shimmy back to the left (looking at the motor from the front of the car) to line up.
  10. There's about 2 on the market that aren't pieces of complete s***. The non-brand ones are utter garbage and will collapse if you pull too much vacuum through them.
  11. Everything up to November '00 uses the snap-ring setup. I'm not 100% sure about seals on either side of the bearing as there are no less than 3 seal-looking things on the parts diagram.
  12. Lugging matters if you do it for like.... kilometres.... every day. Not once, up a driveway. It would just stall. There's not even enough force to make the engine keep going around, let along damage anything.
  13. From talking to some people who spend too much time around dyno bays, often the no-name stuff is no better than stock. s****y fin density in the cores, or s***house welding and poor fit/finish let them down badly. It's not a cheap car - my 2c is if you're going to do it, save up the pennies and get a PW.
  14. 0.5 bar is wastegate pressure if I remember right, so either it's plumbed wrong (possibly a restrictor pill missing), or there's a faulty solenoid, or it's in limp mode.
  15. Have you already got spacers? After a decent drive mine would be too hot to comfortably touch.
  16. Yep, did it ages ago, can't say if it makes much difference unless you also have phenolic spaces because your manifold just acts as a giant heatsink for the heads. Can't remember exactly what was required, I think I just used a cheap plastic irrigation joiner from Bunnings?
  17. Not sure really. I went to an obnoxiously loud 3" (not a straight pipe mind you, it has a muffler and resonator) and it made more power again, but we changed a couple of other things. Would it have made >230kw with the old exhaust and those things changed? Not sure. What I'm getting at is that a smaller (or at least, constricted design) exhaust is definitely a significant restriction at those power levels, whereas a freeflowing 3" didn't seem to be. Nope, no difference. Make sure the loom is long enough. On a V7 the O2 sensor should be at the bottom, if it's at the top you probably have a GC/GF downpipe shoehorned in.
  18. Yes, exactly that, literally without removing the car from the dyno. Ran the car up and it made like... 236 or something, tuner was like "I suspect your exhaust", unbolted it at the mid-pipe and did a pull and it made 250-something.
  19. Smoke coming from the turbo itself, wut? Sealant on the compressor plate isn't going to make it smoke. 1.5mm is on the larger side for a ball bearing turbo, I believe the standard ones are 1mm? But also unlikely to actually be an issue. Did you re-use the copper washers on the oil and coolant feed banjos, and if so, did you re-anneal them?
  20. I'm gonna be a pest and say it's probably too restrictive for 250wkw, from memory those Genomes aren't big mufflers, like.... 2.25" or something. I had a 2.5" Zerosports on mine and it became a limitation over about 230wkw.
  21. Tried a whole lot of them, the no-name stuff is a waste of time, goes to s*** inside 12 months, flakes to bits and falls off. The best of what I've tried is the Lava Rock stuff from Pro Wholesale, goes on nice, doesn't make you itch quite as much as all the straight fibreglass ones, and seems to have lasted at least somewhat well. But the true best is OEM heatshields.
  22. Your engine doesn't really care if the turbo is a hairdryer. As long as it's not knocking, power is power is power. The air gets really really hot as soon as the spark plug goes off anyway. I had 231kw from a VF34 for years, no problems, and that was with a topmount, on a stock V7 longblock. I don't know if I fully understand your goals... you only want less than 250wkw, and you want it to be... deliberately laggy... so it doesn't feel like a big lazy V8? Sounds like a TD06 is the turbo for you, ancient pieces of s*** that they are. There doesn't seem to be much point in going to a probably quite expensive Garrett GTX-based turbo when you could achieve everything you want to with a Kinugawa TD06.
  23. Going to an aftermarket turbo for about 10kw more than a tapped-out VF22 will manage... seems counter intuitive. My 2c anyway.
  24. It will have a stored code. Find out how to extract it. Might be some combination of plugs under the ECU and then it will either flash some random code at you, or display it in the trip counter or something.
  25. Keep an eye on the seams in the door sills. That's where my old man's one started to go brown, and it never went on the sand, just boat ramps.
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