boon
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Posts posted by boon
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My friend's 2.5 Auto Forry has it...
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They grip like jebus but I'm not sure I'm in love with them... especially with the price, noise and twitchyness... but the grip is pretty phenomonal, coming from MY01s.
I kinda suspect they won't pass their next WoF in which case I think they'll be relegated to track-day tyres, one day maybe haha.
What would you guys recommend in a 17x8? RE001? RE11? P-Zero, T1R... the list goes on...
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So I just went from MY01 225s on 17x7.5s to RE070s on 17x8's
I'm noticing (especially at low speed) that the steering is very... wayward? Twitchy? I'll be driving along a straight piece of road and it wants to twitch all over the place. Most commonly it wants to pull slightly to the left, but a fair amount of the time it's completely fine. Also fine at higher speeds (60kmh+?)
Is this the effect of a wider, much grippier tyre wanting to follow the road a lot more? Or is something funny going on here.
On a semi-related note, how often do you guys replace your PS fluid? I wonder if mines about due...
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Alarm didn't go off at all?
What did they go for first in the CCTV footage, the door or the bonnet?
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For the benefit of the rest of us... was it alarmed?
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what makes/doesn't make it a "prodrive?
No roof scoop, no Prodrive bodykit (mostly front bumper), I think the Prodrives got nicer rims too.
Even the wing is wrong, Prodrives got the V8 style big wing, not this hang-over-the-rear thing thats on there.
EDIT: I gotta say, it looks kinda nice with the reflectors on the guards shaved...
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My V7 apparently runs fairly rich for about the first 30 seconds on a cold morning... sure it's not just that?
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Went from a 1996 WRX wagon to a 2001 STI sedan.
I miss the practicality of the wagon, and that it wasn't pristine so I wasn't completely anal about it not getting scratched/dinged/whatever. Nothing on it DIDN'T work either, but the STI is just a much nicer car, even though it now has very firm suspension and a fairly loud exhaust. I just enjoy driving it more, and at the end of the day it's what puts a smile on your dial.
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Pad knock-off is the scariest thing... I had a completely shagged left front wheel bearing and the whole not knowing if your brakes will work or not business can be bloody terrifying.
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Review says it runs a Spearco intercooler. Methinks it's just set up retardo for the photoshoot.
edit: The screamer points straight at the water line from the turbo... I wonder if it's even finished?
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Or just get a primo top mount... no more piping, no more lag... no cutting a damn thing... *opens kettle of fish and runs*
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A friend of mine's father's race Evo had a blow-off valve malfunction when lifting from some WOT full boost goodness, surge tore a bunch of blades off the compressor wheel which were then sucked into the motor when he stomped the throttle coming out of the corner, they found most of the bits in the intercooler but enough tiny little pieces got through to make it into the engine and scored out the bore on a couple of cylinders.
Surge = bad, although obviously the previous example happened under prettttty stressful conditions.
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Fake, the real one has HKS embossed into the slightly sunken part by the fin. The fakes have a stick-on HKS that sits proud of the housing.
At least that's what I reckon.
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hmm will running with super tight bov for a while do that - as in lots of comp surge on normal driving and only venting in high psi and nothing even in medium psi.. pretty much no bov type sceneario in low/med boost.......
Yeah I dare say this will f*ck your turbo pretty good... why on earth would you have it set up like that though?
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CE28N 17x8 + RE070s
Nom nom nom.
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Yes, it's local... but it's running a hell of a lot besides those speakers (10kwrms bass stage, 500wrms dual 6.5 mid-bass) which makes it a little... different.
If you still wanna hear it let me know.
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I've done a couple of installs with them. They're not bad, but I suspect you'll find the tweeters quite different in-car. They are definitely on the brighter side of things, especially compared with the likes of DLS and Infinity.
Also they really don't like more than about 80wrms if that's any concern for you.
EDIT: I was going to say I could even arrange you an 'audition' with a car I've installed them in but they're very, very secondary to the rest of the install.
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Much you must learn about car audio power ratings, young padawan.
I could wire my DD 9515s to a headunit. The 95's will take 10kwrms (been there done that) but they'll still run off the 17wrms or so a headunit will push, and nothing will get hurt.
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My flatmate's Corolla has done 418k... still goes not too badly.
My Surf is just under 200k, though I imagine it'll do 400 and be only just breaking in.
I haven't had a Subey that high yet. My V7's around 110, my V3 was at about 120 and my Dad's VZ-r Leggy was up around 185 when the crankshaft fell apart.
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A very obviously stolen blue Galant has turned up in my parent's street in Karori. Damage to lock, steering column plastic, blah blah.
Late 80's/Early 90's shape.
Plates and registration are gone, WOF isn't but I don't want to open it up to get the rego off the WOF (fingerprints etc etc)
Just in case anyone knows anything about it...
EDIT: PS6960, 1991 Galant. Window etching for the win.
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My V7 spikes to 20psi with a turbo-back. My cousin's one was spiking heaps and it eventually came down to a bad AFM, go figure...
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Bluetop is where it's at. New Optimas are a bit poos, old ones are beast.
I'm hanging on to mine... it's been, umm, abused, in the SPL game, wouldn't feel right selling it to someone.
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I've got a couple of tricks for those AGM batteries too. Got a proper AGM charger and if that doesn't do it then I can give it a 'bump' with my 17v trickle charge which is good for waking them up again, hahah. They charge best at like 16v, it can be real hard to get a good charge on them especially if your stupid Subaru alternator only pushes like 14.2v
EDIT: Yeah just checked some goodness at they take 15.5v to reach full charge, and if they haven't had a good charge in a while they benefit from a bit of gassing to mix up the chemicals inside. So put a DMM on it when it's charging and see what it gets to.
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You'll need a pretty decent amp to get tweeter-worthy crossovers onboard - you'll need something up to 4khz, and most amps use 18db/octave crossovers so it might sound a little funky. Ideally you probably want around 4khz 12db/octave but without a processor/high end headunit/original crossover you might have a hard time getting it.
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fuel consumption ... km per tank
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
Ski weekend... ~650km, ~600km open road and the rest up and down a mountain.
2 tanks of petrol, 01 STI, ~$250