boon
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Posts posted by boon
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My Rage 3" V7 Downpipe fitted completely fine EXCEPT the midpipe flange had to be rotated about 45 degrees... not extended 100mm.
Sounds like the DP you have is for a completely different shape, or your car is somehow really, really bent.
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was this a 3089 or a 3056 as one is for these systems and the other was to suit standard but the don't make it anymore
3089. Mid-pipe was a Zerosports, but that bolted straight up to the factory DP hence fitment = identical. Like I said, only change was rotating the flange. Wrapped and all, no clearance issues at all.
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My Rage 3" V7 Downpipe fitted completely fine EXCEPT the midpipe flange had to be rotated about 45 degrees... not extended 100mm.
Sounds like the DP you have is for a completely different shape, or your car is somehow really, really bent.
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just put whatever amp u can find and low pass them on
crank it to just below they start clipping
lol
enjoy
save up for better units in the meantime
i say some bass is better than no bass lol
i once has crappy warehouse subs lol reactor paper ones. was ok for just some sounds and bass and worked ok till i got some more decent units
so yea - just use them for the interim basis and u never know - they might be fine for ur liking ..and if not at least they are better than having nothing...
My DD 9515s have paper cones. So do my friend's RE MT18's... just saying.
No bass is better than ugly, ugly bass.
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Installed Process West TMIC + splitter and CAI + Pod last night.
Need to go for a fang this evening and see how much difference it makes.
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Did you buy new or used ? Can you post up or PM me your thoughts on the results?
New from BT. Umm sounds way more awesome, I would say it's definitely more torquey low down and spools a little faster. I haven't driven it long/hard enough yet to make a solid call, but it's a very nicely made piece of kit.
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Rapid Radio, there's a few others that I can't remember off the top of my head.
And if you don't supply RCAs and din pocket you'll get charged for them... DIN pockets are usually about $20 and RCAs $20-$more than the car...
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Installed Process West TMIC + splitter and CAI + Pod last night.
Need to go for a fang this evening and see how much difference it makes.
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In that case, for all intents and purposes, it's a VF34. Same compressor housing and wheel. Ball bearing centre.
Great turbo on the V7. Earlier spool than the VF30, same top end punch. Probably the best IHI Single Scroll turbo for a street car.
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Maybe if it was a dog-box. 6 speed dog gears probably cost the earth and then some.
EDIT: That is an MY02 STi, even if it was built in 2001. I just think it's not a Spec C - the water spray bottle is in the engine bay, not the boot, and it has HIDs - Spec Cs all had projectors, to save weight. Has airbag and electric windows which spec-c had neither of. May well be a Prodrive though, at a guess I would say it was crashed (hence new headlights, bumper etc) and the engine got f*cked (radiator to cambelt), possibly the gearbox did too.
EDIT2: Kinda do-want that bonnet though ;o
EDIT3: It's still pretty cheap for an STi, depends on the k's on the new motor and just what sort of foolishness has been done to the gearbox. If it's got Cusco LSDs and some PPG goodies thrown into it then it's probably at least as good as the normal 6 speed.
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You could weld a twin-scroll flange onto a single scroll up-pipe and the turbo would still work just fine...
All V7s were single scroll by the way. The Spec C just got the VF34 with BB centre, vs the VF30 with thrust bearings or whatever they're called.
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just saw this thread round the same time my mates hilux got stolen from upper hutt, had a 5 star avs parked outside his house, so could of been some people around that new what the were doing, found it a few days later less wheels sounds etc , but still no alarm went off
Funny that... who put the alarm in :
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wowsers. reputation much???
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Hahh yea must be tough/good guy
Yea 6 months fine lol will meet up sometime to give
There's a few amps that I'm probably the only person in the country who can fix them properly (have information about parts that have the tops sanded off to protect the designs). So I have a stack of them and very, very little free time to work on them.
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Supercheap and/or Repco sell 6x9 box's
6x9 boxes suck massively. You buy 6x9s to get some bass when you don't want a sub, 6x9's are primarily designed to go in your parcel tray so they are designed to work in a semi-infinite baffle... they generally have quite stiff suspension and work best, when boxed, in around 80-100L ported per pair. Those 6x9 boxes are more like 4-5 litres, if you want that kind of sound you may as well install a row of tweeters across the parcel shelf since you'll be just about killing the low frequency output.
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Mine used to clunk really badly in the rear, once I stopped at an intersection and it clunked so hard I thought the guy behind me had run into me.
A lot of places will say diff bushes but the first thing to check is the struts. After I got mine greased it went away completely.
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Installed 2" lift kit. Not on the Subey
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did u get it all done ??
Nah man. That bolt is still seized tighter than... something I won't go into. It's the single nut one, not dual with lock-nut, apparently these have a bit of a reputation for seizing.
Hopefully I'll pop in and see you about it this weekend
Might need a bit of blowtorch action. -
one thing i never under stood and still don't is how that equation works ?
for instance last dyno day a ver7 that was pretty stock pulled around 80 nm more than me . . but i pulled over 30kw more ? im pretty sure the avcs is what gives great torque but does that equation work out perfect every time ?
Yes. His torque would have come much earlier in the curve then dropped off - lots of torque times not many revs = some power, almost as much torque times more revs = more power.
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Installed 2" lift kit. Not on the Subey
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Torque IS power. Did nobody here do physics at school? Torque = force, Power = work/time, Work = force*time.
KW = Torque * RPM... with a couple of other numbers thrown in.
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The human ear is quite poor at detecting the directional source of low frequency signals. So you can put a sub in your boot, and especially with some signal tinkering (phase and time alignment in particular) you can bring the sub 'forward'.
Our ears are very good at determining the location of higher frequency sounds, and this locational information is used by our brain to determine a lot of stuff about the source of the sound.
For example, if you listen very, very carefully to a well recorded track on good equipment you should be able to place the individual instruments/artists on the stage.
When you put components in the rear, particularly with the tweeter seperated and up high compared to the woofer, you can get some very, very curious effects, psychoacoustically. When you hear the exact same sound from in front of you, then a very small moment (path length difference) later from behind you, it basically makes your brain think you're in a very small room and you're hearing a reflection from behind you, or that there's 2 identical noise sources, which is very very rare in nature, and confuses the brain. It will just about make you feel like you're sitting in the middle of the performers.
Interestingly enough this is pretty much how most nightclubs have their sound setup, with speakers in all 4 corners with messed up path lengths, so if you're after club-ish (read: crappy) sound, then the same speakers at all 4 corners is probably the go.
If you want more of a concert style sound, or live performance, then good speakers up front with low-passed or no speakers in the back is the way to go.
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Something like old Fusion Jonahs. Won't look horry like 6x9s in the doors always do.
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Don't touch Fusion gear with a barge pole - heard of a couple of cases of the gear catching fire..
I repair amplifiers in my spare time... if only people knew what was going on inside them
The old Fusion FP-1404 is about the most bulletproof amp ever made. You have to do something completely obsurd to kill one, yet I still find them on trademe from time to time for $50 'as is' with popped output transistors.
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lol thanks drf. surprised you could even find It ? paper says 233.7 . this was with external wastegate venting As well . . seems faster with new wastegate set up . . . . but any way . . you guys need to stop thinking only about turbo and what boost to make power . . . there's a whole lot more to think about when trying to achieve more kw at the wheels (Hint hint). . . .
That's a helluva lot of power from that setup. What injectors are you running, and which dyno was it on?
I'm aiming for similar power levels from my V7.
Oh and just to keep it on-topic... I'm staying TMIC, got myself a Process West one on the way. For road driving tbh it's going to cool just as well as a FMIC for sub-250wkw and even if it only lags slightly less than a FMIC, that's still less, and my entire modification path has been about increasing spool, early power and torque.
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Get some good 6.5s and install them well then low-pass them.
Something like old Fusion Jonahs. Won't look horry like 6x9s in the doors always do.
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6x9's suck, get a sub.
Edit: Unless you don't want to run a sub...
p.s. if you cut metal up there it's epic WoF fail.
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Whats the best alarm ?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Autowatch and Cobra make most of the 'traditional' alarms (Mongoose M60/M80 and umm, fill in the blanks...) look pretty arse.
But it all comes down to the installer. My old alarm (which the previous owner had installed) was a '5 star' but the brain was tucked up on top of the steering column, loom was looped around in the same area, and the bloody drivers door switch wasn't connected. It had glass break sensors which are a complete waste of time on a Subaru. A $200 chinese single immobiliser alarm, installed extremely well, will protect your car better than a badly installed '5 star'.
In Wellington, I would say that vehiclesecurity guy definitely knows his stuff, and I get all my alarms done at SLAP, who do a damn good job IMO (watched both my alarms being installed and I know they go the extra yard)