wildturkey
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Posts posted by wildturkey
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never seen one of those crank tools before, usually the way i do it, and most mechanics lol, is a long power bar resting on the chassis rail behind headlight, with a rag under it, then crank the key for a split second.
but i like your way better ;D good work.
/quote]
This is indeed a much easier way,
Otherwise at home i just use the rattle gun and it gets it off in a second
Nice work guys, That is one nice shinny pump, did you brother to clean up the rest of the area? Those seal should last a lot longer now, I found replacing mine made a huge difference and i stopped losing a little bit of oil...
yeah we degreased as much as we could but ran out of degreaser. I cleaned the surface of the block where the pump bolted to and also cleaned up the gasket face of the water pump. Yeah I had oil leak from the bottom cam seals so hopefully the new ones will stop that. The things u learn when u pull ur subie apart!!
So far so good........no oil leaks.........no coolant leaks...........but every time I go for a drive I can't help myself..........I just have to have a look under there ;D ;D
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ok time for a bit of an update.........well after changing my cross pipe seals and changing the
thermostat seal I still had a coolant leak and it was comin from round the water pump so
spent most of today changing the pump and also did the cam seals as well cause last time i
was under the car could see one leaking. Thanks to Stoff for the tools...and Jason once
again who saved me when i was completely stumpd on the water pump (never changed
one b4).....and also to Emery who had quite an innovative way of getting the cambelt
tensioner back in without having to use a vice to recompress it.
here's stoffa magic tool to hold the crank while the nut is cracked.
well got down to bidness and got the pump out
new one in......thanks to Jase :lol: :lol: :lol:
Then we started on cam seals which were pretty flogged
new ones.....
replaced.....
that's about when i forgot to keep taking pics.. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Emery stopped by to help out with the cambelt especially fitting the tensioner back in cause we didn't have a vice big enuff to compress the tensionor
and the nearest G clamp was a fair way away......
Good news is it's all back together now and no sign of coolant leaks.........fingers crossed
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great day out well organised and so many cars!...awesum!!
Some pics from the day!!
waiting bottom of Paekakariki hill.........prick of an intersection
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I checked under the car first thing this morning.......no coolant leak so far.....looking promising
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an a BIG thanks to Jase for helping out ;D
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wrx_lou']
[quote name='wrx_lou said:
Whats the best way to clean up where the orings sit? My CD block has a bit of surface rust and what not in them.
/quote]
when i did mine i use a wire brush attachment on a drill and it was gone in a matter of seconds
I was thinking that, but does it get right in the recess where the rings actualy sit? did you use a small atatchment?
I used a very small flat head screwdriver to scrape out the corrosion (cause it was quite thick) then a toothbrush to clean it all out. I also smeared the O rings with some red gasket shitttt
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Get it completed today? How long did it it take you in the end>?
yep got it all done thank fark...........took about 4 hrs including cleaning up the corrosion on the bolts and O ring grooves.....damn I scraped out a lot of ***t from those grooves.
Finished it all off with an oil change and MBL8
Now for the test over the next few days to see if it's fixed the problem
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Yeah, just o-rings there, and seen them leak before. Yes the manifold needs to come off.
You'll need to clean up any corrosion on the block and the pipe before fitting new o-rings. Subaru keep them.
cheers bro........damn coolant leaks........oh well another thing on the list of to do's
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I been tryn to track down a coolant leak and noticed a few leakage marks around the seals of that long rectangular alloy water pipe that sits on top of the
block......and also coolant marks on the block itself.......any1 ever had leakage here before or heard of the seals failing?
I know it will be a manifold off job to fix. Cost of seals and where?...any advice
Here's a few shotz of the seals I talkin bout........not my block
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It's in beside where your jack is & i cant remember if there are 2 or 3 10mm nuts attaching it, but they were fiddley to get to from memory as i remember dropping one down into the quarter panel space , & it would be easier to remove the inner boot lining & find the power wire that goes it too. make sure you have/get the little sealing colar & cap that is on the aerial end that screws on top
.hey cheers for that will do
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cut'n polished key marks off drivers door......came up nice.
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Has anyone replaced one of these? I wana take mine back to original. Looks like a fiddly job.............tips?
/quote]
on my wagon was real easy, 3 bolts from memory, only lil fiddly bit is getting the lining out of the way, left mine up in the carwash :
ahh ok so boot lining out then I can get at the bolts for the unit?
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Has anyone replaced one of these? I wana take mine back to original. Looks like a fiddly job.............tips?
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mmmmm.........good advice cheers just gota make up my mind which option
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just to clarify.......yes I want to retain the split rail setup but run the FPR on the passenger side rail.............not the drivers side. Is this possible?
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The RS runs 2 right hand rails each with a FPR.
I need to drop the FPR on the drivers side to create a bit of space (about 15mm) for a turbo that's been rotated 180 degrees. Will just use a left hand rail with no FPR
Any problems running only 1x FPR........and on the passengers side?
I know factory they only come with 1 FPR anyway but it's usually on the drivers side............does it matter that the FPR will be on passenger side?
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1989 RS Legacy - coolant leak
in Engine Related
Posted
no coolant smells