Omsin
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Posts posted by Omsin
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32 minutes ago, ACE3.0R said:
Sweet man, cheers. The exhaust does look good. Its different to everything I've seen in person. I'm gonna get some more pics up after the weekend.
Zero offset stuff is direct from Ebay, FYI in case you want to save a few dollars and buy it from eBay ya self
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Ok, Say I ordered the Whiteline ALK on Sunday but I've been thinking about it this whole time and have come to the conclusion that this style bushing is always going to have deflection due to the way its designed - Rubber / poly being levered against a stationary stud.
I've looked up the part code for the 12-14 style pillow ball bushing and according to a Subaru parts site it will fit my car? (other sites have said not)
The only thing i'm not sure about is if this bushing is physically different and won't fit in the WRX arm (i know the studs can be replaced if that's the only size difference)
I'm tempted just to onsell the kit i've ordered for a small loss and order in the newer style OEM bushing, it will give better feedback from the wheels but without the benefit of increased castor.
What do you think is the best thing to do?
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9 hours ago, Gripless said:
Downpipe and PBMS tune is easy. It’s what I started with.
Sub tech are great for mechanical work and they've done all my pre-purchase checks for me (about 6 in total now), but if they aren't doing in house dyno or road tuning then I would look elsewhere. As Andymac pointed out, they're offering a mail order / etune for the price of a dyno tune.
The difference with a real world tune (dyno / road tune) is that your car is programmed with your cars running gear at running temperature / humidity / AFR / air temp etc etc for your stock ECU to work with.
An e-tune is essentially a basic recipe that's been made from data they've gathered from various other cars like yours and combined to make a map that's close to what they think works based on previous tunes for the same car.
Sort of like an "off the shelf" map that Cobb accessport has in the USA - its close but not exact, works but not the best.
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38 minutes ago, ginganinja said:
Yes that's what I thought. That video wasnt arpund when I fitted the bushes. Did them a few months back and just fitted the diff this weekend to find out I had done it wrong.
Now for some fun removing rear subframe and trying to get bushes out again. Haha
You might be able to line them up (penetrating spray would be best) and trying to tap them out by going around the circumference of the outside sleeve bit by bit, I’ve taken the odd bushing out that way - might not be toooo bad seeing as they’re new
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if the diff is pushed forward into the mounting location as far as possible and bolted in there shouldn’t be enough clearance for the insert tubes to come out as they would hit the stopper on the end of the studs (bolt hits tube, tube pushes against end of stud to create tension).
heres an install video for a GC8 showing which side they mount the new bushings
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Edited. See new post
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Depending on the height of the diff mounting studs more weight would be put on the inner side (closer to front of car) and would be best to have the thickest part of the bushing there to take the weight. The side closest to the rear should also have a large washer underneath the nut, this would spread the load evenly across the face of the bush helping to prevent deformation and the “gap” you speak of.
Even if if there was a small gap once loaded up, when you put the bolt and washer on it’s going to pretty much stay in that location with a lot less play than stock bushings.
My stock rubber bushings would deform and create a gap too, this is why I got bushing inserts to help fill in the gap, the washer probably does more of a job to stop movement than the inserts themselves.
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I’ve got whiteline rear diff inserts on mine.
what car have you got? Part code?
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1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:
Aren't the ball joints the same, you just need to make sure the STI arms come with the insert for the alloy arms. Volk4 on Trademe dismantles a heap in Hamilton so might be good to ask.
Just realised the ball joint is seated in the knuckle not the arm itself so it doesn’t need replacing. From what I’ve read the only thing that needs changing is the stud which attaches to the body/chassis as the wrx is a thinner stud.
Ive asked him, before I tried to haggle on price he said he had them, then said he doesn’t. Back to square one haha.
The STI alloy arms are supposed to be a lot better than the bulky steel wrx arms so I’ll keep looking around. Almost have the car set up how I want it 🥳
last things on the list are new bushings for the rear upper control arms, trailing arms and new rear camber + toe arms
oh and I found my up pipe Heatshield has broken welds and rattles ever so slightly
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Who do you guys use for used subaru parts? I'd be quite keen to do the STI arm swap if I can get my hands on them for a good price. Other problem I foresee is that my Whiteline roll centre kit may require a new ball joint if I swap arms (not reusable?)
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7 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
It'll certainly look better once back at standard height with the arm closer in line with the post but can't see it flexing back enough to not be marginally sloppy.
The spherical style that the facelift STI’s got are much better, don't suppose you know if they fit the WRX models @Gripless?
The basic type from Whiteline (W53353) is listed to fit both but the spherical style (KCA425) only shows WRX’s from the VA gen as being compatible.
5 hours ago, Gripless said:The pre facelift STi some had rubber from factory. Think 09 maybe some had the bearings. Anyway mine had rubber and torn to s*** so I have the bottom ones.
Lists WRX and STi so same size
https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA334
lists only STi but says WRX as well in description
https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA425M
The STI uses a different control arm but it can be fitted to a wrx if you replace the stud (different sizes) for the rear bushing mount.
Ill have look into it and see what I can find on just a straight bushing swap.
originally the rubber was ripped apart, hence the poly bushing install
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Think it might be Nolathane, I’d have to double check.
The mechanic just said it’s sitting like that because the arm is “unloaded”, if it has weight on it it should fill in the space 🤔
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Only about 2000kms / 3 months old!!
good excuse for a ALK I guess,
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Is this OK or is it possible that the mechanic got the wrong year / size bushing?
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8 hours ago, jackvmaggie said:
Awesome comprehensive response - thank you.
Could I grab your recommendation for a tuner in Auckland?
Based off my research on ClubSub, I am hearing that Torque Performance is the most reliable/professional but highest spend, Possum is relatively expensive and reliable and autoupgrades is the cheapest but a few members have seen issues with the tune down the line.
Cheers
I’ve only heard about PBMS and Torque in Auckland when considering a tune for Subaru’s, ST Hitec is also a well known tuner for Japanese cars in general. I would stay away from cheaper / unknown tuners. Unless they specialise in Subaru or know how to tune them well.
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I wonder if the cambelt prior to snapping had stretched, throwing out the cam timing etc. A reputable shop I use suggests a timeframe and not just a KM based cam belt swap for Subaru’s.
Highly likely you have damage, would need to be inspected
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17 hours ago, connor said:
Hi guys,
I got my power steering pump replaced today but now there is a high pitch whining sound whenever I accelerate. Just find it odd as the old pump only whined when I turned now the new one is doing this. Could this be because of the new pump and that's just how it sounds or is there some sort of break in time for them or could it be something else.
Cheers
check that your gf / wife / partner isn't lying down in the back seat, often the source of most whining
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Prepped the car for ceramic coating. Wash, clay bar, polish, alcohol wipe - ceramic coat tomorrow
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What’s your price range?
you can get the newer legacy GT for less than the price of the equivalent wrx / sti but we’re still talking $12-15k.
My sister has a 2005 Forester “Cross sport” with over 200k on it, had it since 40K. No engine issues to date, just random electrical stuff like window regulator, side mirror motor failure etc.
Generally, IMO it seems like Subaru’s seem to have engine issues or symptoms of issues around 120-140k - just looking at the Impreza wrx/sti models for example.
I guess it comes down to who’s owned it and how they’ve driven it / looked after it, being an sti model it’s quite likely to have been “enjoyed” and used accordingly.
Do you have money to fix any issues with it? Are you planning on keeping it awhile? Are you prepared to take a chance and be stuck on the roadside with your family?
Resale will be a tough one too
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New turbo downpipe and re-tune.
A new air intake isn’t a performance mod until you’re pushing higher power with a bigger turbo but you can replace the stock panel filter with reusable higher flow one which will be your best bang for buck.
Catback exhaust is mainly just for sound and not really a restriction near factory power level, so if you’re on a budget you can leave this out - the new downpipe will make your car louder anyway
Power wise, that’s all you really need.
For better handling you can’t go wrong with a larger sway bar kit, don’t bother with a front strut bar but get a rear if you have the money for one - makes a little bit of a difference.
just to confuse the situation even more, a tune will cost you around $1000 and is a must for reliability and hp gain from mods which improve air flow through the car so if you’re going to get a tune with a downpipe (the biggest hp gain mod on these cars) then you have to consider if there are any other mods you may want to do which would also require tuning (new air intake for example) so you don’t have to keep retuning and burning money.
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1 hour ago, Subru said:
I used a decent amount of glue but no silicone. It 'looks' air tight.
Edit: Found some silicone and and put a bead on the inside but couldnt access the front face due to the caulking gun being too large so I put a bead on the outside of those joints and will just cut back excess and the carpet will hide it.
Be a man and use ya finger 😂
squirt on finger, rub finger along inside, spend next few hours cleaning hand
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7 hours ago, Subru said:
That white box in the background looks like it could house a large sub 🤔
Did you glue / seal all the joins? All the boxes I’ve had have had a sealant applied inside to seal all the joins (air tight) -
I don't have those personally but from my research, STI group N is the best option for the price vs results. It will be less NVH than any other aftermarket solid mount, the increase in NVH for the transmission mount is supposed to only be a little and of those that noticed an increase it was seen as a positive because transmission whine sounds great to some people.
If you're looking at the upgraded mount you will also want to get the crossmember inserts for the transmission cradle too.
A good place to look for aftermarket parts and read reviews on said parts is www.rallysportdirect.com - just be careful in regards to parts which are LHD / RHD specific.
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5 minutes ago, tweedo said:
Awesome, cheers Andy.
Where did you happen to source this from? A quick Google search provides nothing locally.
IDK about the same brand but the silicone inlets are available for certain models on Trademe, Moonlight Racing NZ or potentially boost performance NZ
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BH5 things to look for / mods to do
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
You should be able to tell how healthy the motor is when you take it for a drive, if boost comes on smooth and without any sort of hesitation that’s a good sign. Of all the Subaru’s i’ve had compression tested, the ones that failed coincidentally had blow of valves installed 🤔 Not a great idea on Subaru’s I’ve heard so may be a good indication to stay clear.
I’m all about driver feel mods so things like upgraded bushings, ergonomic / weighted gear knobs etc. For handling I wouldn’t worry about strut bars and would highly suggest you look at sway bars as they’ll do a lot more than strut bars (reinforce lateral movement in the wheels as opposed to just putting more metal on top of metal (strut bar).