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Omsin

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Posts posted by Omsin

  1. No issues with my intake, cleaned and oiled it about 6000km's ago, trick is to apply only the necessary amount of oil (not liberally) and give it adequate time to soak / "dry".

     

    They make specific MAF sensor cleaners which I use once or twice a year depending on km's as even stock filters allow crap to be sucked in and coat the intact pipes (no car filter is fine enough to stop everything)

    • Like 2
  2. Played with the ride height this afternoon. Was 330mm FR 335mm FL and 330mm in the rear (centre of wheel to fender) Raised the car up about 20mm in the front and 10mm in the rear so it’s now 350mm front and 340mm rear.

     

    Alignment needs rechecking but even as it is it handles a lot better. After reading overseas forums the sweet spot for good roll centre geometry is 350-355mm front and approx 342mm rear. After looking at the arms with the wheels off you can visualise how the wheels were tucked up too far in the wheel well and promotes excessive roll (sort of like standing up with your feet to close together, raising the car pushes the arms down enough to keep the arms at their furtherest point on their pivot).

  3. 51 minutes ago, boon said:

    Don’t put 6x9’s in a box.

     

    EDIT: Most door speakers are effectively running in a pretty s*** equivalent of infinite baffle, and car speakers, by and large, have very stiff suspension to compensate for this. This also contributes to them often having ludicrously high power ratings compared to home audio gear, and is also why home audio drivers sound like s*** in a car and car drivers don't get loud in a home audio installation.

    #audionerd.

    Just going by what I’ve experienced.

     

    i had the same 6x9’s in a box and also mounted in the rear tray of my last car. Definitely sounded better in boxes running off an amp. Guess it really depends on the brand and model of 6x9. I’m guessing the quality of sound is more to do with brand as well to some extent - I’ve never heard many good things about Sony and other commonly sold stuff which usually makes it way to Supercheap auto and repco on special.

     

    I would never mount normal speakers in a box but definitely worth sound deadening the doors they go in.

     

    For what it’s worth most oem speakers are made with paper cones and tiny magnets, I don’t think they put much thought into how they operate... more likely to be interested in cost and meeting a budget at the end of the day and ticking the box for car audio off the production checklist 😛

  4. 2 hours ago, ginganinja said:

    Dont mean to hijack thread but any recomendation to sound systemninstallers in south auckland/ franklin area?

     

    I installed some Sony, 6x5s up front and 6x9s in rear parcel shelf of gc8 with 12 inch sub. using wiring from previous owner but the sound quality was crap.

     

    Might do away with the sub in the boot as it was a bit of a pain. Not worried super good quality but just want to get the list out of the speakers I have. Without doing sound deadening etc.

    Get the best out of it without doing sound deadening? It’s like asking for a marching band to walk quietly across a wooden floor in a loud echoing hall.

     

    The best you can do bang for buck is out some sound deadening around and behind the speakers in the doors. Parcel tray... well that’s kinda screwed because speakers generally work better with sealed or tuned spaces, parcel tray doesn’t give the speakers and punch (think about tapping a drum, if it wasn’t sealed / had a backing there wouldn’t be any “punch” coming off when you hit it).

     

    You could install the 6x9’s in sealed enclosures if you wanted the cheapest and easiest solution for those to sound better.

     

    Amplifiers will give your speakers clarity when you crank the volume up, allows for better control of the voice coils to prevent distortions but that’s going to cost you a bit more. 

  5. 8 hours ago, boon said:

    I used to be super into the sounds thing. Crazy crazy into it.

     

    Now the STI has an aftermarket headunit and stock speakers. Not much point sinking too much $$ into sound quality in them because the exhaust is always going to be loud AF, plus road noise etc etc.

    Performance tyres also make a s*** tonne of noise which drowns out midrange from speakers too

    • Like 2
  6. 23 minutes ago, Dairusire said:

    I don’t mean to sound like a prick, but a headshop or shop that’s doing heads and don’t know or can’t find the clearances for said heads, probably shouldn’t be doing the job... instead of asking the customer for answers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

     

    +1

     

    Shop should not be asking you for those kinds of answers, one it leaves you open for all kinds of grief if they do it wrong and something unfortunate happens and secondly... if you knew then you would probably be capable of doing the job yourself haha

    • Like 1
  7. 26 minutes ago, Loren said:

    It's done via ride height, not preload... nothing should be unevenly loaded up when the car is sitting on a flat surface...

    in fact aside from maybe the springs... no suspension components should be loaded at all.

    The amount of height difference from corner to corner is minimal... the resulting even weight distribution means the car

    is more predictable and balanced... not less.

    Yeah that's what I thought, boon mentioned adjusting the preload which would be a no no as that changes tension on the spring.

     

    I had asked for recommendations on where to go a while back on another thread but didn't get any answers as to where to go... :(

  8. I understand the idea behind getting weight distribution even but doing it via ride height / pre load would cause each corner of the car to react differently to bumps etc no? I.e front left has more tension in coilover vs front right etc?

     

    I've sort of had enough playing around with my suspension settings so I would be tempted to drive across the country (Hamilton based) to have someone else do it for me haha

  9. 9 minutes ago, Subru said:

    Done a lot of research and talked to some people.

    So my idea of a small upgrade of speakers is now gone.

    I have a quote for the below which ill probably get:

    Kenwood KMM-BT304 Head unit

    Infinity Ref6030cs component speakers

    Fusion EN-AM60040 amp

    Soundstream SST-12 Sub with Sub box & Grill

    Cabling

    They will make me speaker spacers too.

     

    All this stuff can transfer to whatever car I get next (If I sell Subaru or get a new daily) so I might as well get a decent setup.

    Infinity kappa is a step up from reference I can vouch for them

    • Thanks 1
  10. 1 hour ago, wrcfan21 said:

    Thanks for the info. I’ve been quoted $550+gst for the 1 cam from subaru. And it had to be ordered from Japan! At least 2 weeks wait


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Go to Partsouq.com enter your vin, see if they have cams in stock. Cheapest parts supplier for oem almost every time. Shipping is fast

    • Like 1
  11. 9 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Could use the current large nav fascia one but there will be a gap of about 10mm on each side that I would need to deal with too. 

     

    That's what the current setup looks like.

    42967424374_7fffde71b6_b.jpg

     

    This small one would be perfect height wise but the width is about 5mm too narrow so a little bit of the screen will be covered.

    10mm gap is better than cutting the screen off on the sides. There’s a few ways to cover it up, foam around the sides, sheet of black plastic cut to size. Depends how good you are with your hands

    • Like 1
  12. 29 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Not a huge fan of aliexpress electronics in general but that's actually pretty cool. Would be a good alternative to a Nexus 7 set up that takes only a fraction of the effort.

     

    Not the way for me though. Going to a windows based setup so I can run a few windows only programs.

    Yeah it’s more about getting the frame to tidy up the gap left from the factory setup once removed, there will be options out there for using a similar bracket and using your own unit 

  13. On stock suspension (a lot of shock travel)  I found the biggest difference when I went from the middle hole to the closest hole (Hardest setting). Sway bar settings go out the window when you change the factory struts/springs though.

     

    Big advantage of adjustable end links is taking out pre load so the bar can work how it’s designed to. Setting up corners is a lot smoother and you can feel a gradual resistance building up. If it’s already carrying tension you can get all sorts of weird handling going on and a really bad time on bumpy roads as the bar becomes “snappy” loading up more and unloading when the endlinks move with the control arm

    • Like 1
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