Omsin

You don't need AC to heat, the heat comes from the engine via coolant heating a part of the air / heat exchange unit. That was how you worked out if the coolant system was properly purged in my 350Z, crank the heat and fan speed to high, (with AC off). The car would allow the coolant to flow into the pipe that heated up the air for the air con system, if it didn't blow hot air it meant you still had air in the coolant system and the coolant wouldn't flow into the necessary places. $2000 to fix something that i'm ASSUMING is a by product of normal engine operation seems bizarre, its likely just a valve or relay - at a stretch maybe the thermostat isn't opening to allow flow through the block? If it was cooling THEN it would be something more complicated like the AC compressor etc etc my .2 cents I was quoted over $90 by Winger for a cabin filter which was $30 from Supercheap

Do you add new grease or just run what Subaru has already put in? I’ve heard the Subaru grease is rather average?

Sorry couldn’t drive my car today, needs an alignment after lowering it ☹️

On blocks? 😂😂😂 I know what ya mean, I should have said “jacking the car up and down” etc etc. cornering weighting would be great if there’s a place that can do it for a decent price? I don’t need race car accuracy but it would be nice to set the car up so its a bit more neutral. I’ve spent quite a bit of money on bracing so may as well get the handling to be as good as the parts will allow

Yes / fine tune the height (I cbf taking the wheels of and measuring it myself, lazy I know)

Hey guys, does anyone know where I could go in Hamilton to get my coilovers fine tuned and the car balanced? I’ve got the ride height roughly set but I want it to be perfectly balanced and then the suspension aligned

Finally locked my inner Scrooge in a cupboard and went out and bought a new exhaust for the WRX, while I was there I got a bit carried away and bought new coilovers too 😂😂 I was trying to find second hand ones to keep costs down but to be blunt - people are useless!! No one has made much of an effort to try sell theirs. So all I need now is a downpipe + tune, wait for the additional Cusco chassis bracing to arrive and I’m done modifying the car ..maybe

Spark plugs, air filter, oil change, transmission/diff fluid change. Radiator flush and new fluid, new thermostat, new water pump, new belts. The service above if you go to a mechanic is in the ballpark of $1500-2000 if you’re changing belts you may as well get a light weight pulley to help freshen up the feel of the motor, pretty cheap. In the engine bay but not engine related really: new clutch fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, new engine mounts, new trans mount and then call it a day. Other than that you are pulling the motor out and changing gaskets and bearings - which isn’t needed unless you have a leak or knocking etc. If you have a mechanical issue then you’re going to need to strip the motor, check the crank, pistons etc etc - best case no damage and you clean it up, replace bearings, install new gaskets job done. Worst case you have a bent rod. New rods, maybe new crank - you get the idea $$$$

Partsouq are the cheapest place for genuine wheel bearings, even sell cheaper alternatives. Got mine in about 3-4 days from ordering, happy as

This is why I haven’t got a boost gauge 😂😂😂 sounds like a PITA to install and setup

Have you taken off the plastic boot lining behind the light? There are always hidden clips. Usually parts come out on a strange angle and if something isn’t coming off easily it’s for a reason (hidden clip etc). Google is usually good for removal videos

Sounds good Aman 🥳

Nobody enjoys replacing gaskets

Bump 💃

It doesn't look like much, but I've already got a short shifter and the main shifter bushings installed (hence no photos). Anyone else geek out when they order genuine parts that you wouldn't normally see or think about? I went through an exploded diagram of the shifter assembly on my WRX and decided to replace all the parts which connect or play a part in the shifter movement (shifter to transmission case). I even tried to order new nuts and bolts but they weren't in stock haha (little OCD)

I usually find it best to keep your foot on the pedal when you tighten the bleeder screw (keeps positive pressure in the system?). Start car, pump brakes a few times until the pedal goes hard. Job done Keep in mind with new pads and rotors that your brake pistons have been pushed back in a lot further than when your pads and rotors are thinner, make sure to break in the pads and rotors for better initial bite and prevent rotor glazing.

Set my whiteline sway bars to full stiffness front and back, think it’s the equivalent of 22.5 front and 23mm rear - Handles amazing! Linear oversteer when you start to push it harder through corners (the opposite to how Subaru set these up from factory). Also changed the dark coloured clutch fluid which was actually really easy to do, made almost no difference tho disappointedly

I’ve used NST for a lot of Cusco stuff, email direct and get free shipping outside of trademe not sure they do whiteline tho Just checked, it’s $200 for free shipping - sparesbox international post was only about $16. The roll centre kit is listed by a different seller who charges $39 for international post

Add everything you want to your “cart” then look at total cost. Over $100 was free for me

Installed mudflaps / stone guards on the front of the WRX (who cares about stones being flung up behind me 😛 ), also retrofitted LED's in the interior fittings.

Changed out the front wheel bearings on the WRX, one side was easy, the other side was a PITA to get off and even back on. gentle love taps with the sledge hammer may have helped but I think it was just luck in the end 😂 If you’re ever in this situation, prop the hub up with a floor jack so that the force isn’t sent straight through into the other components behind it (alignment issues, axle end in the tranny etc)

Decided to order a cabin filter while getting some other stuff during the supercheap auto sale, changed it last night... friendly reminder to go check yours now - it’s probably equally disgusting!!!

What if you just use a junk AFM with the tip trimmed off? Basically a stock blank off plate with seal and all

There’s a blanking plate you can get. Rallysportdirect.com

Ive seen this happen on V11 Impreza’s, and even on my old 350z. When the abs etc turns off it can almost be anything electronic related, it throws a warning light to tell you that abs etc is off so that if the electrical fault is actuallly effecting it that you have a warning that something like abs / TC may not work. on my Impreza the throttle control would lock to sport model , TC and hill start assist would turn off - this was because of the secondary air pump. on my 350z it was because of a random misfire. Usually when the problem becomes more persistent the ecu will log a fault code?