Icy

General Member
  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Icy

  • Rank
    Learner License

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ok update time... on the leaking cylinder (#2 i think/FL) there is a rough spot on the cylinder wall, the patch is on the bottom towards the head side of the bore. looks like something sitting there has corroded it slightly? anyone familiar with this? And I may have figured why it overheated in the first place - due to the tear in the intake pipe downstream from AFM where it was attached to the undersized turbo inlet causing it to run lean. would explain why it initially overheated on a longer drive. So knowing this... do I need cylinder bore honed to take out slight roughness? I will assume piston rings are well cooked... from what i can see it's pretty straight forward redoing the rings, Do i need any specific tools to do this? a list or link would be most helpful Now turbo questions The plan currently is to go cheap and stick with the 26/27 combo it's on. Will be slapping a 27 CHRA into the 26 housing i currently have with the buggered turbine, as from what I've read it spools it quicker being a BB and not thrust/sleeve, get that balanced and would like to think it'll be all goods. so obviously i will need the proper sized intake y pipe from a rev a-c. Can anyone confirm the pipe is identical besides the primary turbo inlet connection?
  2. Yes going to have to do a bit more research when i go down that path.... Also realised that the pistons on the LHS are both marked 0.5, whereas the RHS have no marks. Assuming this means only one side has been bored out? Im sure ive read somewhere that you cant do just 1 side. Anyone confirm?
  3. Thanks for all the replies guys most helpful. On further inspection bottom end seems to be flat. Turns out one of the points i was checking from was slightly raised so gave it a little sanding (shouldnt effect gasket seal area so i think im fine to sand it) A_J_T i was seriously considering the single turbo route but seems like a lot of effort and cost so for now ill keep it twins.... however im fairly sure the rev ds are supposed to be running vf 33/32 combo but checking both mine i got 26/27... now i know the inlet size for the 33 and 26 are different so went to check the inlet pipe and what do you know Its clamped so tight its severed the pipe on both sides, and it was taped over one side in the past by the looks of things. Anyone know if the only difference between the rev a-c and rev d intake y pipe is the inlet to primary? I might just have to get one of those. Oooooor am i better off going back to a 33/32 combo? Also theres an cdb ej20g shorty for sale currently, can they be paired with any heads or is it not that easy? Slowly accumulating tools as they come up on TM or go on sale but im sure theres plenty i still must have!
  4. Heads have been resurfaced apparently one of them was warped pretty badly, should i be concerned about this or should it be good now? After double checking the bottom end there is slight warpage only on the plane at the fronside of the motor by about .06mm fsm says tolerance is .04mm would i be pushing it by assembling as is? Looks like this is 2nd time head gasket had been done so im assuming the last one lasted at least 3 years while the previous owner had it
  5. Hi all, first time pulling an engine but seems to have gone smoothly so far. Car is a 2002 BH5D legacy with a blown head gasket, it was too cheap I couldn't let it pass and thought this would be a good way to get some experience in working on these cars. Gasket leak was cylinder->coolant, bubbles/exhaust smell through coolant. Didn't notice white smoke through exhaust though. Looking at the gasket it seemed to be a very minor leak but enough to put air into the coolant system to cause overheating. Just want to know a few things before i continue further... While this deep into the engine what sort of things should I be inspecting or replacing? going to do timing belt and water pump, probably tensioners as well. Will be getting heads resurfaced since they're around .06mm off level at center. Any recommended places in CHCH for this? Whats the best place to source parts now? looks like partsouq is out of stock for a lot of things for this model. The coolant system is caked with orange residue from the head gasket sealant that was used to try and fix the leak. Do I need to clean this off or will a coolant flush take care of it? i did notice one of the coolant lines to turbo was pretty much blocked from the caked orange sealant as well. Assuming that the head gasket leak was caused by overheating initially, where would I be looking for causes of overheating? Fella said id overheated half way from nelson to chch. before I pulled it apart i did notice one of the radiator fans wouldn't run - while hot and/or with AC on, but that shouldn't have caused it to overheat at highway speeds would it? Primary turbo (vf26) has slightly chipped/bent fins as well, pretty even on each of the fins(on intake side). Is it worth replacing or repairing? 2nd hand looks to be around $200 not sure what a new turbine would cost. also what could cause the damage to the fins? Thats all I can think of for now but I'm sure there will be more to come
  6. just had that problem with intake pipe trying to take manifold off so would assume it'd be the opposite way... removed primary DP removed primary turbo then primary intake could come off... a lot of effort to just remove intake manifold you might need to remove hoses if it won't move enough though, i could barely manage 5mm of movement with just the bottom hose coming off the turbo
  7. So ive reset the ecv and have boost back on primary, only getting up to about 7 psi or so but may make adjustments to it later on after a few test drives
  8. Well laptop still isn't going so got a boost gauge hooked up and its not making any boost at all on primary - wont go above 0, secondry turbo still seems to boost didn't try WOT but boost didn't really kick in untill 5500-6000 rpm. I've noticed a slight rattle coming form the secondry turbo area (i think) could this be the actuator? and would that provide the symptoms I'm seeing?
  9. Thanks for the quick reply, I'm fairly certain its Rev C, chassis code is bh5C5CD. Havn't had a look at the solenoid inside the passenger side arch but it was ticking in test mode yesterday. And the pill should be in the small hose between the T from the actuator and the primary turbo? looks to be there i can see the ledge of both nipples and then a bulge from the center of it which should be the pill. I'll have a look at the logs once my laptop finishes updating and see what i can get out of there. Just checked the codes labeled on the ecu "Y9" "22611 AG302" is this stock? had a quick google and from what i see its a zerosports one? Any suggestions for boost gauge on a budget? and what line is recommended to plumb it into? Thanks
  10. Hi all been lurking for a bit trying to find answers, hoping you fellas could help out a wee bit... anyway... 2001 Ej208 tt rev c bh5 legacy wagon... gtb e tune Got my first CEL a couple months back in the middle of nowhere after planting WOT uphill in 2nd, got a brief fuel cut and CEL came on... tyrned car off and back on but had no boost, had a very boring 200km drive back to chch in limp mode. Checked stored codes and had a 22-knock sensor- and 66-turbo system-. I expect the 66 was from the fuel cut and 22 could have been resulting? Otherwise may have been stored.. never checked the codes before though. After this i reset the ecu and got an obd2 device and got an ecu reader program on my laptop to see whats going on... all new stuff to me so really not sure what to be looking for. Ran a few test pulls 50%, 80% and 100% throttle and only got fuel cut and CEL at 100%. Also threw a code 45-air pressure sensor-at this point, which hasnt come back yet either Before this i havnt had any issues with the car at WOT. HOWEVER. Before our trip (2 days) i recently got the "correct size" tires put on. From 205 45 17 to 215 45 17, i think. Dont think ecu was reset after the change either. Which could have contributed? Also went from 10w 40 semi to 10w 40 fully synthetic about 2 months prior too, with a HUGE improvement of boost from the secondry. Dont have a boost gauge so no numbers but the increase wase massive, which leads me to think it could have also been overboosting? Still boosts ok on primary (although doest feel like its as much as it used to) and secondary kicks in around 5300 which seems late? But does boost a bit but cant floor it or it throws CEL (havnt tried for a month now too scared D:) So far ive cleaned the MAF, pulled out bbod and sprayed carb cleaner in most of the solenoids i can get to with 1 or 2 hoses off at a time. Dont want to have anymore off at this stage while im still somewhat unfamiliar of the vac layout. Also cleaned a couole hoses, quite a bit of dirt coming out of those so thinking i may need to clean or replace the whole system? But havnt been able to find a source for 3.5mm ID hose. Anyone had similar issues or heard of anything like this before? Or if theres any other information that could help let me know. Appreciate any replies! If theres any other info i think of that would be usefull ill add on later.