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About keeweechris

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  1. Yeah, it's almost like its dissolved or something, only on the under-side. The replacement pipe I got has fairly thick rubber there. I guy I talked to thought blow-by oil collects there, and over time eats the rubber. Makes sense, as I had a fair bit of oil in my intake and IC, and all over the top of the engine. The big ol hose clamps wouldn't help. I'm going to replace with T-Bolt hose clamps, which should be gentler on the rubber.
  2. Silverdale Transfer Station take it, free of charge. Noone else seems to advertise doing it, but a guy from ChemWaste (Onehunga) said I could bring some down for free if it's a small volume (~8L).
  3. OK, cheers. I was concerned it was a sign of a bung PCV system/valve, or rooted piston rings. But I guess it's not too much oil.
  4. Howzit, Got a GTB RevB TT and preparing to swap out the big intake pipe due to perished rubber on primary end (common problem I've heard). Took the IC off today, and there was a reasonable amount of oil inside, mainly around the TB outlet and primary inlet. Quite a bit of dirty oily muck all over the PVC piping leading into the intake pipe and primary end of the main intake pipe too. Wheres it coming from and what can I do about it? I heard that the oil collects in the primary intake end of the intake pipe, and perishes the rubber over time, which is exactly what I have. Seems feasible. Some pix: Cheers for the help!
  5. Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated!
  6. Thanks guys. Yeah, I'm definitely just a "quick street driver", not race or anything like that. I'm after something on par with modern cars, where you feel nice solid positive braking, rather than sloppy "old car" braking. I think I'll stay away from those Bendix Ultimates, just due to the dust issue.
  7. People often say "make sure you put on good pads", but hardly ever mention what brands/models are "good" and where to get them in NZ. So I thought I'd ask. Couldn't find that info anywhere else. I've been thinking about how to upgrade the fairly crappy braking performance on my stock BH5 GTB, which has 2-pot sliding calipers on 295mm rotors and stock 17" wheels, without spending heaps. I've settled on fitting BP/BL 316mm rotors and calipers, and good pads and bleed. As I understand it, just fitting WRX 4-pot red calipers on my 295mm rotors will not do much, which makes sense. Increasing rotor diameter and making sure the sliding calipers work well is the best bang for buck. But what are "good pads"? Do you base it on cost? Cheapies tend to be ~$60 a set from supercheap/repco. I'll stay away from those. Are Bendix General CT's or Ultimates classed as "good pads"? They're at Supercheap for $90. Or do you have to spend $150+ for a set of "good pads"? What about TRW? They seem to be about $200. What makes them better? Cheers for any advice guru's!
  8. Yeah, I'm seriously considering doing a similar thing. If I can get a good condition used pipe, I might be able to cut mine off at the red line without having to remove the whole intake manifold/etc. Cut in same place on the new part, then find a metal pipe to fit inside as a sleeve, then hose clamp both sides down. (red arrow is where the damage is)
  9. Haha, I know. Thought someone might benefit from hearing how I got on. Yeah, there's plenty of life left in the old girl yet. It's a challenge too, learning about how they all work. Over-complicated though... a single turbo system is so much simpler. I inspected the pipe properly today, and it's rooted. All perished underneath the end rubber bit. Someone told me it's caused by oil (from crankcase breathing system) sitting inside the pipe, and the oil eats the rubber.
  10. Problem fixed, the primary boost solenoid was stuck closed. I opened it up, looked like the plunger/seal got stuck to the port inside, and solenoid couldn't pull it back (open). This is interesting, because the Exhaust Gas Control Valve Duty Solenoid (in BBOD) is the same type, and I had exactly the same problem after cleaning out the BBOD the first time. A day after flushing it through with CRC Carb Cleaner it got jammed shut. Had to open it up (pry back the metal tabs) and clean it again from the inside. After reassembling it worked ok again. I'm guessing the carb cleaner reacted a bit with the rubber seal inside and made it stick to the port inside. Anyway, back to 10/15psi boost. Now to replace that intake pipe with a new silicone one.
  11. Bringing this thread back from the dead... thats ok, I'm the OP. Finally got round to making a smoke tester (soldering iron in jar with babyoil, works brilliantly). Found a pretty obvious leak around the primary turbo intake, mostly from around the worm-clamp head, but also from somewhere on the other side of the fitting. I'm guessing it's time for a new intake pipe... that looks like a b!tch to change. Cleaned out BBOD solenoids and boost solenoid too, and did hose 10 mod. Also got a boost guage hooked up a while back... about 10psi on primary, 15psi when secondary comes in. So guessing the bits from turbo's onward are ok. Saying that, after putting everything back after BBOD cleaning today, I'm only getting 9psi, and nothing later in rev range (5-6k). Almost like there's no secondary now. I think I missed something. Any idea's?
  12. I forgot it was USD, so price ended up being $600. So that set me back a bit. Gotta fix a few bits and pieces on the car first, then will probably do it. Can't see any other way to easily retune a BH5 RevC.
  13. Thanks guys, good advice. So my plan will be to install the ProjLambda 91 base map, then carefully and progressively log runs then check for any knock detection (through the ECU IAM values). If I get to full-noise with no knock, I'm safe. Based on the fact that it's a base map and used by them as a tuning starting point for this exact model/revision of car, I'm fairly confident it will be ok. But totally hear you, be conservative at first. BTW, I'm just looking for mild gains and better driveability from stock for relatively little coin, not full-on performance. I think this is a good foundation, and means I can go harder later if I want, with bigger mods and dyno tune. TBH, I can't see that happening though... I'm 40, got kids, and this is the family wagon. I did all this years ago with my other car, a stock 2006 nz new WRX (2.5L manual). RomRaider plus a random dudes (Gabedude) base map on the RR forums. Maybe I got lucky, but it's been about 6 years now and has transformed the car. No knock detected.
  14. OK, will do. Would it be good enough just to check the IAM/retardation values during a pull? Or is the factory knock sensor not good enough? Good spotting, cheers! ProjLambda do 91 and 94 (AKI) base maps. This translates into 95 and 98 (RON), according to I'll use the "91" map to start with I think, but the "94" would be fun to play with on 98RON.