Bugeye01WRX
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Posts posted by Bugeye01WRX
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Hey guys
So I have an STI spoiler with Perrin stabilizers on my Bugeye WRX and love it.
However I do have guilty pleasure of seeing bugeyes etc with nice drift wings (Is that what they are), or the carbon fibre ones like Voltex etc.
So I'm thinking about getting myself a nice carbon fibre/drift wing and another boot so I can swap between them as I feel like it .
However, I came on here to ask a few things and have some suggestions:
First, I want something functional. I don't want any crappy GT wing with no downforce, I want something tried and tested just like the STI spoilers.
Second, I know Voltex is a fantastic brand but I don't like the "legs" of the spoiler (bit that attached to the boot) being right on the edges. I prefer when the legs are more centred like this:
https://www.topendmotorsports.com/to...fiber-9248.php
https://bulletproofautomotive.com/pr...or-set-carbon/
Anyone got any suggestions?
Thanks!
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1 hour ago, Niran said:
What short shifter is it? You may need to adjust it for more clearance at the bottom. Mine did this also when it was first installed, as they had it on its lowest possible setting (was a Cobb shifter). Once I raised it a bit the rubbing stopped
It is the Cobb one. When you say lowest setting do you mean the longest throw?
Because yeah mine is about 4mm from the "longest throw setting." I could adjust it actually but Im having transmission/diff whining now and that probably is not the shifter.
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5 hours ago, Loren said:
I worry about earthquakes while being under there... mostly I should be worried about banging my head, because it happens all the time.
Hahha yeah that is the worst one I can relate I have had concussions and hate banging my head :P.
I actually noticed tonight that my car was whining when accelerating from about 90km - 130km it just got louder so I think something is wrong with diff. All fluids were done like 10 months ago. And the gearbox is making really weird noises in gear now ever since I put the short shifter in. I am having problems with the shifter as it jams against the plastic housing in 2nd gear but yeah no idea why the gearbox/diff and suddenly making noise.
Could be coincidance and wear and tear. Could be I didn't do something right when replacing the bushings or the shifter or could be when I dropped the car haha
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2 hours ago, Loren said:
Jacks that just drop randomly are dangerous. Buy a better jack or get yours fixed.
There will be sill damage from a 10cm drop... probably just some dented sills or pinch welds (which are not designed to be used with jacks stands btw).
If your floor is a bit uneven, then adjust the height of the stand rather than move the stand to a different place (imo).
Often one of the rear stands won't have quite as much weight on it as the other (if the floor is a bit uneven)... it doesn't matter as
60% of the weight of the car is at the front anyway.
You can lift or lower the car in stages if you think it's safer... it can be quite scary putting a car on stands when you haven't done it many times...
plus when you have a dodgy jack and then also when you are in a small garage and don't have a lot of space to get out of the way of a falling car.
Always check each stand has all 4 feet squarely on the ground and that the weight on the stand is directly above the stand... no lateral load.
Always check every stand before you get under the car, and give the car a good shake too.
Never take any risks or short cuts... you will die.
Yeah it is not like it dropped randomly I just found that sometimes when releasing the jack even slowly it wouldn't just slowly depress the jack just loses all the pressure and yeah the car just dropped. Ill definitely get that looked at.
Yeah it was only my 3rd time putting them on all four stands and my FIRST time being under the car. I actually had 6 other jacks stands placed around the car as backup incase they failed so I did try and be as safe as possible.
Yup they were all fixed on the ground. I couldn't get the back ones to both sit opposite each other even when I lowered/increased the opposite side I had to place the back ones slightly apart.
Where should I place jack stands if not at the pinch welds? The subframe?
Ok so I wouldn't have done major damage? No chassis damage or anything? Yeah it would have been about a 10cm drop. I checked the side skirts and sills and no damage I could see at all but I definitely heard something. Could that noise have potentially just been a noise from the pressure like the plastic side skirt being crushed against the metal but luckily no damage ?
I'm just wondering if it is worth having an expert spend 30 mins looking under and just checking?
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13 minutes ago, boon said:
Probably a write-off, I'll give you $500 for it.
EDIT: Next time don't just dump your jack, sheesh, for someone who is so particular about looking after their car dropping the body 10cm+ onto jack stands seems like a strange idea, why didn't you let the jack down slowly?
I actually did try to lower the jack slowly. I was turning it very gently and carefully but I find that sometimes it goes down slowly but other times it just drops. Maybe my jack is actually broken I never thought of that actually.
Yeah it was a bit of a mistake I should have gone a few notches down but it was late, I was tired and then the jack decided not to comply haha. It lowered nicely for the rest of the times I lowered it but it was just that first drop aye.
Might have to buy a new jack.
Just wondering what possible damage to look out for is all. I had a look under the car and couldn't see any damage to the side skirt or chassis that i noticed but I DEFINITELY heard something crack/crunch.
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On 12/03/2022 at 11:25 AM, Andy_Mac said:
I’ve just gone for a simple 52mm CAN multi gauge in mine. You don't need a whole row of gauges to display what you want once you go digital.
Set up is easy and cost was somewhere under a grand but you're relying on the sensors you've already installed for the ECU fail safes which is where the bigger cost is.
I don't look at it as much as I should but it can be setup with warnings for any of the available parameters and multiple pages of different layouts. It's mainly used for trouble shooting issues when I can't be bothered dragging the laptop out to plug into the car.
The other way to go is to get a spare android phone/tablet setup somewhere on the dash permantely connected to the OBD2 port with one of various apps running whatever parameters you want to see.
The one I used in my old legacy was super useful but was only supported for a few vehicle models. It could be setup to do logging and snapshots of all available parameters whenever a knock threshold has been past.
Wow that looks bloody amazing!! So that is all wired into the ECU that data you are reading there?
That is really damn cool to know thanks so much Ill definitely add this to the list of things to do when I get an STI.
Don't think Ill bother with the WRX hahaha
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Hey guys
I just finished installing a short throw shifter and poly bushings and had car jacked on 4 stands at the front and rear pinch welds.
They were set quite high (9 notches on the jack stands) and I was lowering the car down and was told you should always do it in stages.
I started with the back and lowered it down to 5 notches but I think this must have been too much as when I released the lift the car dropped extremely hard onto the stands and I heard this awful crunch/crack sound and it actually set my alarm off so it must have been a decent thud.
I tried to check under the car for damage but couldn't see any cracks or damage even on the side skirt where I thought this damage must have been.
I just had a few questions:
1. Any particular damage to look for? I can't see anything but could anything have bent slightly without me noticing?
2. When lowering a car off jacks, should you do it in stages, or should you just completely drop one side down and then do the other? I was quite high which is why I thought to do it in stages.
3. I noticed the rear of my car was not sitting on the jackstands correctly. The front 2 stands where opposite each other and both were taking weight however in the rear of the car, I had to put the left side jack stand about 10cm more forward (closer to the front tyre), compared to the right side which was almost at the rear of the skirt in order for them to both have weight. When I originally had them opposite each other, the left side was not taking any weight and I was surprised the car was sitting there fine haha. What could cause this? I'm potentially thinking the surface I was working on was slightly uneven but it was hard to tell.
Thanks all!
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6 minutes ago, Dairusire said:
Narrowband for sure on all models. Wideband only on newer generation and some legacys? I think? Don't quote me.
Oil pressure yes, but it's a switch sensor, not a pressure sensor. So it'll tell you 'yes' there's pressure but what that pressure is, it will not tell you. Again, referencing earlier models. Oil temp at least in the GC, GDs there is not. There might be in later models, but again. I'm pretty well shoehorned into earlier models.As for CANBUS, like I was talking about in reference to aftermarket ECU's eg Link and the like, they come with CANBUS (most do). That's what I was referencing where you can use CANBUS gauges or a Dash cluster, like a haltech IC7 or whatever the link one is etc.
It's how I'm running the Link CANBUS wideband and soon to be Haltech EGT sensors and maybe a dash if I'm feeling spicy (I probably won't they're horribly expensive).
The answer is yes, that piece of string is long.
What I'm eluding to here is if you want them all, fine do it right. Otherwise the best options? Just spend the money elsewhere.Great tyres, lighter wheels and better suspension with good brake pads can be absolutely transformative.
Or you could do nothing? Save the money?
I kind of wish someone told me that when I started this whole thing with my car.
End of the day, your car. Your choice. Your money.
If you're happy with what you've done, who am I to tell you otherwise.
Thank you very much for everything! Im definintely going to be putting my time into reading all about aftermarket ECUs and everything you have said to really get a good grasp of it.
Haha yeah Im about where IM happy spending money on a WRX. I've got great tyres on there they were about $1,600 for 4 however my rims are hot garbage (just some average 17 inch DTMs that look like s***) and I'm on stock suspension and brakes.
As much as I'd love to upgrade the suspension and brakes, firstly I have no idea what a decent upgrade would be for a WRX and second, don't even know if it is worth it for a GD Bugeye WRX.
But if you think it is or have ideas let me know!!
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6 minutes ago, boon said:
I'm gonna say you might get change from $5k?
Edit edit edit edit: What do you actually want the gauges for? If its to protect your car then don't bother with gauges, your ECU will do a better job than you ever can. If you want some shiny things with blue LEDS buy some $30 ones from Aliexpress.
Yeah it was to protect the car. So if you have a link ECU and everything is wired in correctly are you saying that even running CANBUS gauges are not neccessary for you to see what is going as the ECU will take care of everything?
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3 minutes ago, boon said:
Believe it or not, Subaru built your car with a wideband, narrowband, oil pressure, oil temp (I think?) sensor and wired them all into your factory ECU.
As above, gauges are eye candy at best. Why bother?
You can't use CANBUS gauges because you don't have a CANBUS. If you have an aftermarket ECU with CANBUS you can get some - CANBUS is like a data network for cars. Then the gauges are just a display for some network data; they don't have to be connected directly to the sensors or anything.
Ahh right! What does it cost to have a setup of Canbus gauges and aftermarket ECU roughly?
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27 minutes ago, Dairusire said:
I'm going to stop you here just for this not so quick explanation. It's not to be rude but to really advise you.
Gauges and sensors are typically a complete waste of time, across the board, if not being used in real time by the ECU. The ECU is doing operations at literally the rate of tens of thousands per second, if not millions. EGTs, oil pressure, oil temp, boost pressure, Wideband, IAT, fuel pressure, ethanol content, fuel temp blah blah I can go on. In short there is absolutely zero chance you will catch something even 1/10th as fast as the ECU can and will.
If you want to get gauges and sensors and really have it matter? Heres my advice to you.
Do it once, do it properly.
Get a motorsports ECU (link, haltech, motec, syvecs, holley. Your preference), get all the sensors you want, have them wired into the ECU properly, and if you want them displayed get some CANBUS gauges or get a CANBUS dash cluster which is programable to have everything.
I say this because it is super easy to spend $1000 on gauges that realistically, won't save your car, engine and end of the day, your money.
The above is horribly expensive, but sensors save even more expensive components.NOW! To your questions.
To be honest, if you've lost oil pressure completely and notice it on the gauge it is already too late 99.99% of the time. Even if it hasn't knocked yet there will be major scoring to bearings, cams and other pieces in the engine. So yeah it's more so just noticing when driving around if it's somewhere it's not meant to be. Not enough to trigger engine safety protections but enough that I notice and then check my ECU logs.
in the case of oil temp, Yeah in my example yes that is predominantly what it's for at least for me, but once again, ECU logging and engine safeties get to that well before I do. Also normally when you've got oil that hot and you're loosing oil pressure you should drop the oil and change it. Overheating oil can and will damage the oil in ways that can then do potential damage to your engine.Though, if you want them for the look, and less about the sensors themselves.
Knock yourself out. They're cool as sh!t and I've love mine even though they realistically don't do crap for me hahaOh dude don't think you were being rude this is very helpful!! I wouldn't think you were being rude!!
AHhhh riiiight! I've seen Link ECU mentioned before seems a very popular aftermarket one.
So basically, you get an aftermarket ECU and then get any sensors (A/F, boost, Oil etc) and they get wired into the ECU so the ECU can read the sensors at extremely fast rates?
And then if you want to see the data you use the canbus gauges?
Is that right? What are Canbus gauges specifically??
haha I do love the look but I prefer function! I'll definintely do this when I get an STI,
I don't know if I want to spend more money on a WRX.
But when I get an STI, I have a beautiful list to do (including Midnight purple paint) and I will definintely do the gauges properly!
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2 minutes ago, Dairusire said:
imho, just oil pressure and oil temp.
Once again, they best serve when actually integrated into your cars ECU, as an ECU will respond instantly where-as you might not even notice.
Though, Oil temp and oil pressure are in some examples good on track for purposes of not pushing it too far.
For example, I have oil temp and pressure in my RA, because with the temp it's a lot slower changes, easier to notice over time. Pressure is less about seeing it go to zero because if it goes to zero the damage is done. It's more so about knowing when your oil is too hot and you're loosing pressure because of that, tells you when to button off and give the car a few good low rpm cool down laps at a good cruising speed.Awesome thanks for that!
Oh I didn't know that about the Oil Pressure gauge. I always thought it was there so if you lost pressure suddenly you would know instantly and be able to pull over and prevent catastrophic engine failure.
So are you saying that when really going hard, if the oil gets TOO hot and becomes too thin then you can lose pressure that way and that is what it is mostly for?
What about EGT are they any good or necessary?
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54 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Waste of time and money really. You're not going to notice mid pull it's off before any damage is done and it's not the kind of gauge you can set up to alarm as it's always changing depending on the AF figure the ECU is aiming for at the time.
Heaps of people feel the need to get them but would probably never notice if the readings were out
Cheers that clears that up perfectly :).
What would you say the essential gauges are? For me its definitely Boost & Oil Pressure and I really like Oil Temp so I know when I can get on it.
Any other gauges that you would consider very important to have?
49 minutes ago, Dairusire said:My answer is that it's really only good for looks if it's not wired into the ECU and actually utilised.
Like, sure you could use it on the road and be able to tell if you're running at 1.0 lambda when cruising but in reality, when you're actually driving it you will not or at least should not be looking at the gauge.
You also, unless you're logging it, won't be able to tell exactly where in the RPM range at what throttle load the cars at so it's basically a turkey shoot.AHh yup so unless you were basically running a race car and constantly tuning and checking everything then its pointless for road use.
Cheers that clears that up!
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Hey everyone!
Just wanted to first say a huge thank you to everyone who commented on the tinted tailight law post. I didn't respond to everyone but I read all your comments!
I was just wondering if I should get a wideband A/F gauge or if it is not really neccessary. My WRX has been custom tuned nicely at approx 240whp.
I currently have a boost guage, oil pressure & oil temp and they are all definintely very useful.
Is the A/F gauge neccessary? A lot of sites I have read say its essential but mentions more for tuning etc so if I have already been custom tuned, is there any need for this gauge?
If so, I was looking at the AEM 30-0300 or the Innovate DB LC2
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Anyone used any sort of fabric paint like duplicolor or something much better to paint their car seats? I'm in the process of of blacking out interior with a few red accents and the seats are a real eye sore (WRX bugeye seats).
I was just going to buy some nice bucket seats but don't really have a chance to sit in them and unsure what would be a nice upgrade for a daily anyway as the stock seats are very comfy.
So I thought I could paint them as putting new material over them seems costly.
If anyone has done this, I have a few things I'm worried about.
1. Will the dye/paint leak onto clothes even after fully dry from heat/sweat etc?
2. Will the seats become hard/crusty? Or does using a fine brush between coats keep it soft?
If anyone who has done it can offer some advice that would be great!
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11 hours ago, IZichard said:
The rules on overlays were less clear in the past, something about visibility from 200m in normal darkness. At some point in the last 5 years or so they made a change to the VIRM to add more clarity. So that is likely why you got away with it in the past. Sections of the VIRM highlighted in yellow represent a recent amendment (I think they stay yellow for 5 years).
The inconsistant application of the VIRM by crappy inspectors is super annoying and I deal with this on a daily basis.
Customer says: "Oh well Bruce at Lowquality Autos has been passing it like this for years"
The virm is very clear on most things if you actually take the time to read it. Many WOF inspectors are lazy and won't fail cars on difficult issues if they think is going to cause a point of contention with a customer because it reflects badly on their business. The problem is that it then makes an inspector who is applying the rules correctly look like they are being difficult when the fail a car.
Stories like "I passed with x mod" do not mean they are legal from a WOF standpoint this is inspector inconsistency. If you are ever unsure of the legality of something have a read through the relavent section of the VIRM, that is the only difinitive answer.
https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/reversing-lamps
Reverse lamps are not mandatory equipment so you could tint that area of the light or even remove the bulbs if you wanted to.
Direction indicator lamps are mandatory equipment so you cannot tint over that area for a WOF
Thanks for this!! That is really awesome to know I'll definintely spend some time reading through the VIRM to get really up to date on all the alws haha.
Ahh ok if its only the reverse light I can tint I wont bother it is such a small section not worth it but thanks so much!
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On 14/02/2022 at 10:12 AM, boon said:
Strict interpretation? It's illegal, the end.
Real world, depending how you do it and where you get your WoFs they might not notice/care.
People who think there is wiggle room in the VIRM are wrong:
19. An overlay has been applied that reduces or distorts the light emitted from the lamp (eg a tinted cover).
Thanks man that cleans that up for me! Honestly if I didn't work in insurance at one point I'd tint from front windows at 20% and rear tailights blacked out almost. The reason I don't is if I had any accident insurance could decline my claim based on the illegal modifications.
Wofs etc are easy to get around.
Insurance, not so much haha.
On 13/02/2022 at 4:29 PM, Andy_Mac said:Just do a light coat. You get almost all of the light output while looking a bit nicer and won't get pinged by anybody but will technically still be not above board.
Grabbing a set of v8/9 ones is another option as they like ok a lot less dated than the v7’s. You’d just need to cut the bumper a bit for the round section at the bottom
Honestly if I didn't work in insurance at one point I'd tint from front windows at 20% and rear tailights blacked out almost. The reason I don't is if I had any accident insurance could decline my claim based on the illegal modifications.
Wofs etc are easy to get around.
Insurance, not so much haha.
I see a lot of people like the blobeye tailights but I am not a fan. The little circles annoy me I like the cleaner look of the V7 and the Hawkeye ones look terrible being predominately white.
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Hey everyone
I was wanting to tint my back tailights but that looks like its a big fat no legally haha.
However, after speaking to a few people the law seems a bit grey to me on the following:
1. Can I tint just the white strip on the stop lights that is just the reverse/indicators and the leave the stop lights as is?
2. I noticed there is the High Stop Light on the WRX and STI spoilers. I have an STI spoiler on mine so I was like, oh Ill tint that one but then I was told that you can't touch that light either. But then I was thinking so many people remove their spoilers and so must only be running 2 stop lights?
I am super confused and should I just forget about tinting the rear stop lights.
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On 21/12/2021 at 10:55 AM, boon said:
Sadly no more info about the car. It was just a pic from some car show, I was searching on the number plate.
The bottom half of the bumper seems super familiar but I can't quite work out what from.
Keep in mind that a large part of the look of that car comes from the widebody, which is a massively expensive undertaking even if you do it the cheapest way you can.
I'd probably just hunt out a nice JDM or Prodrive bumper and call it good... you can't see it when you're sitting inside it anyway, and $4k would go a long way in terms of making it drive better.
No worries! Yeah that is a fair point it is something I'd do after I had done all the performance work for the car. I have a plan I'd aiming for around 350whp with upgraded turbo, injectors, pump, fmic, exhaust and a good custom tune.
I'd be looking to do the front end after all that was done.
But thanks for your time man!
14 hours ago, Serchn said:Looks like a evo 5/6 aftermarket bottom half 🤔. I saw one like it when I was looking for a replacement when I had my 6 😂
Yeah I had a look it does actually only thing is on both sides it has those little grooves that bugeye wrx/stis have so it has to be a custom bumper
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13 hours ago, boon said:
Found another pic of it:
God that bonnet gap really is bad.
I can't quite put my finger on the donor bumper. Maybe Skyline?
Wow yeah the bonnet gap looks FAR worse in this photo. However, I still absolutely love this style! Sweet thanks for the info on the pricing! Definitely something I would get done eventually.
Where did you find this photo btw? Did it have any more info on the car?
Cheers
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12 hours ago, boon said:
It's either a really bad photo, or it's one piece.
The bonnet gap is also kinda disgusting but that's more like a "the owner cbf adjusting it" thing
Oh yeah I didn't notice the bonnett gap haha that does look gross.
If this is a custom piece you have any idea what it would cost to fabricate?
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47 minutes ago, boon said:
Hard to say without another angle. The front guards look like generic WRC clone ones.
The bumper is a custom one. The one piece bumper-grill-eyelids is not something I've ever seen before, especially not specifically set up for the Morette headlights.
Oh damn a custom one. I've been looking through all the ones like Cwest, Zero Sports etc and Zero Sports was the cloest one.
I'm starting to think the "bumper-eye-grill" isn't one piece but rather, the headlights are separate and there is a piece placed over the top.
Could be wrong though.
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3 minutes ago, Bugle said:
To get that look you'd need the aftermarket front guards as well, a lot of spend and work, if you can find the kit
Do you know what kit it is? I'd definintely spend the money as this is definitely the most awesome look I have seen for a Bugeye
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This is the BEST looking Bugeye I have ever seen! My gosh when I eventually trade up my WRX for an STI I want to make it look this this!
I know those are Morette's but they look slightly different as it looks like the bottom portion is either been cut off or hidden.
Any help would be appreciated
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Daily Driver Bucket Seats
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Hey guys
Anyone got any recommendations for some nice comfy daily driver seats to replace my 02 WRX seats. I do like the WRX seats and they are very comfy but I have painted my entire interior black with hints of red and I want the seats to be black. Also, I would like something that is a little more snug for whipping around corners haha.
I considered painting or dying them but worried about them being stiff or leeching onto clothes etc and re upholstering would cost the same as new seats.
So I'm wondering what people could recommend.
I was also wondering about fixed back. Are they a pain for daily drivers? I don't like having my seat too far forward I have it leant back a little more. Are fixed backs in a nice position for daily driving? Or should I just get reclinables?
I saw Scarles have some fairly well priced seats but are they crap?
Thanks