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Everything posted by Bugeye01WRX

  1. Colour :). I have done purple for everything else and this is the last thing to do. Ok ill give it a go without the resistor!
  2. When I talked to jaycar, they said that the LEDs like that needed a resistor or something when going into a car. I am not that savvy with electronics so I dunno if this is true or not but I tried wiring up a resistor to one of those LEDs and it cannot fit back into the socket.
  3. Hey guys Anyone done the HVAC replacement on their V7 - V9 WRX or STI. I have done all the cluster, floor, keyring etc in purple but the HVAC ones are really weird. I have attached some photos of what they are. For all the other bulbs, it was just t5 wedge bulbs but for these they are very different. If anyone has done them please let me know what you did!
  4. Oh 1,500 is allgood for an engine and I assume STI engine as well? So if I bought for example a used EJ205 engine if mine blew, how much would I be looking at roughly in that case to get it on the road again including replacing all the oil pump, seals and cooler. Haha that sounds like they are both good points. Thanks a lot for all the info tho I definitely feel like I understand the options more! Thanks everyone for the replies! I definitely feel like I understand the options much better!! Can an EJ207 be dropped into WRX easily?
  5. Thanks everyone for the responses really appreciate it Wowsers that is a ton of money haha! At that point I'd rather part the car and just buy an STI. But if I had an STI already it would be a different story. Is that similar prices for WRX short blocks or getting crate motors? Would be around 10k? Ah ok so you don't reckon getting new short blocks etc is worth?
  6. Wait why facepalm? I was genuinely wondering what others had done and if they could maybe offer some advice on things that worked well, didn't work well etc? I didn't mean it to be a stupid question I was genuinely curious?
  7. Hey guys Seems like there is a huge avenue of lines to take when your engine goes boom after I did some reading. Just seeing what others out there have done and based on their experiences what they would/wouldn't recommend? I assume it also has to do with how the engine blows as well that will determine your approach? I have not blown my engine but it is getting up there in KMs and is running 311bhp and while I do look after it, I am aware it could go at any moment. Even if it doesn't for a while, I'd rather gain knowledge on what to do and what options there are anyway rather than something happening and then scrambling around trying to sort something while I don't have a car haha. So yeah, Rebuild? Replace with used longblock? Buy new Shortblock off PBMS? Dropping in an STI engine instead? Other options? What should you usually budget in the case this does happen? 5k? Thanks all!
  8. Hey bro same boat can't get some OEM stuff for my service. Luckily it was only 1 thing and fairly minor but they said their suppliers can't get things atm.
  9. Just a quick question. I got my car serviced a few weeks ago and needed new rear shocks and had no rear bump stops so basically rear suspension is shot. Had it booked in to do this work tomorrow but since we have been plunged in Lockdown unable to get the work done. I have avoided driving my car as much as possible but I notice that every time I drive over bumps in the road my back goes "thud" so I know the suspension is pretty bad. I'm really pissed as the other day I hit a HUGE pothole where I scraped my exhaust (already posted about that), and I hadn't driven car since (lockdown). Had to drive today and I felt like the car just felt a bit "cheaper." If felt like it was thudding/clunking worse even with smaller bumps. Just wondering what things would bear the brunt of the assault on hitting a massive pothole if the shocks are bad. I assume control arms and ball joints primarily? I had a look and can't see any damage to them but what else should I look out for that could be causing this worse ride? is there anything specific I should get the workshop to look at when they do the work.
  10. Bro that exhaust looks mad! Mine comes out on an angle now and I love it! I can see literally most of the muffler and it just looks aggressive and wicked. Honestly bro I would not change your exhaust it looks bloody awesome!
  11. Hey guys Hit a big pothole today (stupid road) and because I need new rear shocks and my bump stops have gone (they were getting replaced next week), my car completely bottomed out badly and I heard the dreaded sound of the exhaust smashing against the road. I jacked car up and checked and it scraped on the midpipe right on the lip of the resonator. It took a few gouges out but it seems like there is no hole and no dent. There is also a VERY slight dent in the muffler at the outer edge. Again, just a few gouges and a small dent probably the width of a finger tip and only very slightly caved in. Based on that, as long as it is not leaking and sounds the same, just carry on? To me it seems just surface but I am really pissed at myself for 1. not seeing the pothole and 2. Because this was a nice new exhaust I have JUST put on. I'm just wondering who else has scraped/hit their exhaust and had to replace it and what were the obvious signs. First 2 photos are the muffler damage. Last 2 are the Resonator damage.
  12. I probably wouldn't go from a 3 inch downpipe into a 2.5 inch Catback. There is conflicting evidence as with anything but if you research I think there is something about increased backpressure compared to just running 2.5 inch straight through. Also something about the gases expanding and contracting etc with some people doing dyno runs with this setup and getting worse results compared to either 2.5 inch through or 3 inch through. I just would leave it with 3 inch personally or redo the whole system 2.5.
  13. That doesn't make sense as the only thing that changes is the throw length, the gears are still engaging in the exact same way that doesn't change. THe only way synchros would be affected would be from too fast or aggressive shifting, which is not to do with the short throw shifter but to do with the driver. That is a driver thing not a short shifter thing. The only thing that changes is the throw the gears still engage the same. If you are smashing it into gear or shifting too fast then yes, can damage things but you can do the same on stock OEM throw. Can you elaborate on how you lose precision? Most reviews I read and watch on YT with a Kartboy/Bushing combo or CObb/Bushing Combo speak about how much more precise and great the shifter feels. Nice! Yeah I think I am going to get Cobb because being able to adjust the shift and lever is just such a great feature to pass up on.
  14. Hey guys! I am planning on getting a Short Shifter and bushing combo. I was pretty much 100% sold on Cobb as I prefer the stock shifter height and the Kartboy is lower and I like the adjustability. However... After looking on Cobb's website it says the throw is adjustable down to a 25% reduction? I was reading heaps of reviews and it was saying that the Cobb could adjust to as much or even lower than the Kartboy which is at 40%? I'm now a bit confused and not sure I would want the Cobb at only 25% reduction but then I don't know if I like the kartboy lever being shorter. I really like the stock height of the shifter so the Cobb being able to be a short shifter at stock height is appealing compared to the Kartboy. Also as a side note, anyone know if JDM V7 WRXs have A short or narrow barrell shift fork? Might save me having to open up the shifter.
  15. Was looking a slowly switching over to poly mounts but after researching lots and watching some videos it looks like the vibrations and NVH can be quite rough for a daily driver. These were engine mounts I was looking at in the video so I assume that is one of the worst offenders. I am currently needing to replace my shifter bushings, steering rack bushings, rear shocks and front top hats. I am looking at getting either a Kartboy or Cobb SHort shifter (have not decided yet), and everyone is recommending to get the front and rear stay bushings in poly to go with it. ANyone done that? I heard the trans will whine when doing that? Also, I was looking at doing for the moment the steering rack bushings and the sway bar/end links in poly. As far as I am aware, the swaybar and endlinks will not cause any increase in NVH so those seem worth doing. Anyone done poly on steering rack? Worth doing or keep stock? I also am quite interested in the Group N Hardened rubber mounts.
  16. Haha yeah I think I experienced heat soak once. It was a super hot day and had been in bumper bumper traffic for ages. I then went to do a pull (stupidly it was early days of owning the car), and I was barely hitting 6 psi. I got such a fright but went home, let car cool down, drove again an it was fine :). Sweet thanks man I was just wanting to make sure I was looking after the engine as it has done 210,000km hehe. From now on I'll definintely wait around 30 seconds between pulls. I may even get an IAT sensr/gauge installed post intercooler so I can monitor intake temps :).
  17. Haha I love that! Yeah this new tune really opened up the car. I had a custom retune done on stock exhaust in February. I just had a turboback exhaust and retune done and even though I gained no torque and only 10hp, the car just FEELs so much more responsive it is crazy! The exhaust just sounds, feels and responds so much nicer with the higher flow cat in there now. I am only at 257whp and it feels so damn fun! Ah sweet! So if it was still hitting max boost and pulling hard then IATs would have been fine and engine would be all good? So basically, you'd know if it was heat soaked as power would diminish?? I was doing these pulls at night in cold temperature. I love doing that as the cold air really makes the car perform even better compared to a hot day haha.
  18. Just wondering how long most of ya wait between pulls when you take your car out for a spirited drive? I was only thinking about this the other day when I did about 8 back to back pulls with only maybe 10 seconds between them and since car has been retuned it feels like it flies. I thought that our cars would be able to handle this no problem but was doing some research and some people were saying to wait longer as doing back to back pulls lead to higher intake temps and heat soak and eventually detonation? I assume the vehicle would pull timing if it started to detonate from heat soak etc? So yeah, if you do decide to go for a spirited drive, how long between pulls should you wait? Or is doing the consecutive pulls fine as long as it is not all the time haha. I only do that once a week or so.
  19. I only go to the deaership here because they serviced the car before I got it and have good records of everything so far. Also havn't found a new mechanic to go to as of yet but I understand dealers are expensive usually. Good to know that that cost doesn't sound too bad. In terms of the Shocks, i know there is a difference between struts and shocks but was hoping you or someone else could help me with understanding these. WHat exactly do Bugeyes have? They have Struts right? Not separate Shocks Is this a repair you can do yourself if you have the tools and a little knowledge or best left for mechanics? And if I decided to at least source the parts myself, any recommendations on what to replace with. Thanks Loren!
  20. Hey guys Just failed wof on the following: Front suspesnsion Top hats Split Vehicle has no rear bump stops Rear shocks need replacing Steering rack bushes need replacing. What is a reasonable cost including parts and labour to do this? I was quoted between $1,200 - $1,500 for this work at a subaru dealership.
  21. Thanks dude that is good to know appreciate it!!
  22. 198,000km Ok so this doesn't necessarily mean the car has been thrashed to buggery or that the rest of the gearbox is bad?
  23. Hey guys Looking at buying nice Bugeye STI exactly what I am after. However been in contact with the seller and he says it is getting a worn synchro repaired. Is that a red flag? I know that the STI gearboxes are stupid strong and can easily handle 600hp so to hear them having issues makes me think it has had the living daylights thrashed out of it and that the entire gearbox might go boom. I'd hate to buy an STI only for it to have an expensive gearbox replacement. So should I avoid this vehicle? Any checks I could get done professionally without having them rip apart the box or if I decide to buy it just have to have faith in the gearbox?
  24. Ah ok so it is better to ride the clutch briefly in these situations? Ok cool so I don't need to worry about the lugging in this situation as it was for such a short time and in such a low gear aye?
  25. Hey guys I have just been practicing not riding the clutch as much as possible and I have got a pretty good hang of the bite point now so i don't ride it too much these days in many situations. I was reversing out of a gravel driveway that was on an incline of about 30 degrees so quite steep but was not very long. I didn't want to ride the clutch so I had clutch fully engaged and was just letting the momentum carry the car up. I didn't want to accelerate much either as it was not very far up the hill and onto a main road, so I ended up letting the torque at 500 - 900rpms "take me up." I am just wondering if it is possible to lug the engine in this case? I know in first you basically cannot lug the engine but what about going up a hill and not applying any throttle? I was in reverse and basically had both feet off pedals but car felt like it was struggling for a few seconds before I got onto even ground. I assume the car would stall in this case before any actual lugging would occur or am I wrong? Just a bit worried as I regret not slipping the clutch in this case to get up and am a bit annoyed at myself and worried i caused engine damage as I know lugging is really bad for the car.
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